So what do you mean by non-tiptronic automatics? How do I check for this?
VW has three kinds of "automatic" transmissions. The first is a normal automatic with a torque converter, where the only setting for normal driving is "D". The second is a Tiptronic automatic, which also has a torque converter but in addition to "D" allows you to slide the shifter sideways and then select gears manually by moving the shifter momentarily to "+" and "-". The third is the DSG (direct shift gearbox) which does not have a torque converter but instead has clutches like a manual transmission, but has two of them and controls them via computer. It has a "D" mode and "+" and "-" functions on the gear lever, plus steering wheel-mounted paddle shifters. (The tiptronic might have paddle shifters too, but I don't think so.)
You can tell them apart by looking for the "+" and "-" by the shifter, or by model year: the "regular" automatic was used up to model year 2003. The Tiptronic was used from 2004-2006, and the DSG was used in 2009+ models -- I think, anyway.
The normal automatic was terrible (search TDIClub for "01M" if you want to learn why). The tiptronic is, as far as I know, fine. The DSG is fancy and expensive, but might be reliable enough to be recommended, for all I know -- research the issue on TDIClub if you decide to go for a 2009+ (not that you should, but if you do).
Any manual transmission is the best choice, of course. ; )
I found this VW: https://kansascity.craigslist.org/ctd/5535587546.html Its a Jetta TDI and it seems like an excellent deal...
The car in the Craigslist ad looks like a decent prospect, especially with the low miles and appearance of being in decent condition. In particular, if you want an automatic TDI, then it's a good choice. (I have no idea whether the price is reasonable or not; I'm just speaking about the make/model and condition.)
FYI, I've talked up to this point about differences in engine (rotary-injection vs. pumpe-duse vs. common-rail) and transmission (normal vs. tiptronic vs. DSG), which both follow the 99.5-03/04-06/09+ model year cutoffs. However, there's another consideration:
Mk4 vs.
Mk5. For the Jetta, Mk4 was 99.5-2005, while MK5 was 2005.5-2011. The pumpe-duse, Tiptronic Mk5 (which is what the car in the Craigslist ad is) was only made from 2005.5-2006 (i.e., more-or-less one model year). It is larger, fancier and more modern than the MK4, but uses a slightly different engine than other 2004-2006 TDIs (engine code "BRM" instead of "BEW") so maintenance and replacement parts are slightly different. I don't think there's any problem with that; it's just something to be aware of when ordering parts.
Anyway, you should certainly have a
guru check it out if you're considering it, and read up on what to look for.
For example, that car's odometer reading is in the right range that the timing belt (and associated parts: tensioner, water pump, and pulleys) should have been replaced recently (if it hasn't been done, get it done by a guru
immediately after buying -- and factor that $500-1000 cost into the price!).
TDIs have interference engines, which means if the engine timing is off (or if
any part of the timing system breaks) then valves can hit pistons, resulting in engine failure and several thousand dollars worth of damage. This failure often results from an unqualified mechanic doing a sloppy or incomplete job when changing the timing belt. For example, he might skip the water pump replacement to save money, or use the "mark and pray" timing method instead of hooking up a computer diagnostic tool to set it precisely. Unfortunately,
many mechanics, including the ones at VW dealers(!), are often unqualified to work on TDIs. A guru will be able to tell whether the timing belt (and other maintenance) was done competently or not.
(Now that I've scared you, calm down: as long as you don't try to skimp on the maintenance, TDI engines are nicely reliable to many hundreds of thousands of miles.)
...especially with that lifetime warranty.
I would consider a lifetime warranty offered by a used-car dealer to be irrelevant and probably worthless. A
manufacturer warranty has value, but
a dealer/third-party one does not. In fact, if I were buying a car from that dealer I might try to ask to skip the warranty in exchange for a lower price. (That tactic might not work, since the warranty kickback is probably a decent chunk of the dealer's profit....)
I looked up the fuel economy and google says 36 city/41 hwy.
For diesels, real-world fuel economy tends to be higher than the EPA estimate (and for hybrids it tends to be lower). That car should be at least in the 40+ MPG (combined) range, if not better.