Flat tires - bikes?

[jeromedawg]

Hey guys,

Just wondering what you guys do once you get a minor flat on your bikes. Do you just patch it and keep riding until you can't ride anymore? Or do you patch and make it your spare? Ugh, I apparently got a thorn stuck in my tires the other day and just after having thrown on a brand new tube a week ago too :( I think it was actually my first time riding it and I hit a thorn.... what luck, this after having had 3 bad mental lapses in a row (one being almost ripping the door off my car while backing out of the garage w/ the door open). May has not been a very nice month :(

[jeromedawg]

One other question. I have a set of puncture-resistant Bontager Select Kevlar tires that came with the bike (it's a 2004 Trek 7700fx). I haven't really ridden it that much but if thorns are penetrating, is it time to consider getting new tires as well? I'm pretty sure I haven't clocked more than a few hundred miles on this bike and I've had it for over 10 years!! Not sure if tires degrade though after that long even when not actively ridden on.

[TrMama]

I'm totally unmustashian about flats and replace the entire tube every time. However, most others patch the tube and continue to use it. As a woman riding alone, I've had a couple incidents in the past where some creepy guy stopped and offered to help when I was on the side of the road. So, I prefer to get the tube changed and back on the road ASAP. YMMV.

Yes, tires do degrade over time and can cause flats. You may want to think about getting new tires.

[jeromedawg]

I'm totally unmustashian about flats and replace the entire tube every time. However, most others patch the tube and continue to use it. As a woman riding alone, I've had a couple incidents in the past where some creepy guy stopped and offered to help when I was on the side of the road. So, I prefer to get the tube changed and back on the road ASAP. YMMV.

Yes, tires do degrade over time and can cause flats. You may want to think about getting new tires.

Thanks. I was wondering about that. I think on one spot of the tire sidewall I can see part of the kevlar belt fibers... I'm a bit confused on tires though, as far as which ones I should get. My current tires are rated 700x35c. Should I just replace them with the same Bontrager Select Ks? Or should I consider something else like Schwalbe Marathons? I'm assuming I should stick with 700x35c sized tires in either case...

Also, is it worth taking the bike into a shop to get the wheels trued and checked over? I've done some work on tuning the derailleurs and such and am pretty comfortable there, but it's more the condition of the wheels, rims, spokes, etc that I'd be concerned over... a few years ago my wife was riding the bike while we were on a trail and ended up with a flat. She kept riding it for at least a quarter of a mile before realizing it. And possibly longer. Not sure if that would have done a number on the rim. FWIW, I have been commuting on this bike no problem and had the same tube that I changed back then up until a couple weeks ago when I noticed it had started going flat as well. So while it seems the back wheel is OK, I'm still a bit paranoid and am wondering if I should have it checked (or, if it's easy to DIY check, how to go about that).

[GuitarStv]

I patch the tube and continue to use it.  I've put about five thousand miles on the tubes I'm currently using and have three or four patches on the rear.  You need to check the inside of the tire very carefully after each flat, as often there will be a sharp something or other stuck in the tire that can cause more of them.  (Good time to look at the rim tape as well.)  If there are visible holes in your tire, you can patch over them with a bit of duct tape to hold together for the rest of the ride, but it's time to replace them . . . they will lead to more and more frequent flats.

As far as spokes go, try to do at least a monthly check on spokes.  Give them all a little flick and see if any of them are more loose than the others.  On your front wheel the spokes should all sound close to the same note when you flick them.  On the back wheel the spokes on the left side of the rim should all sound about the same, and the spokes on the right side of the rim should all sound about the same.  If you find a loose spoke, tighten it (and then true the wheel, tightening spokes as you go around)!  Riding on loose spokes leads to extra fatigue and they'll start breaking.  It's pretty hard to overtighten spokes, but very easy to end up riding on loose ones.

[TheLazyMan]

I usually get puncture resistant tubes and put in the green fix-flat stuff.  Seems to work pretty well.

[jeromedawg]

I patch the tube and continue to use it.  I've put about five thousand miles on the tubes I'm currently using and have three or four patches on the rear.  You need to check the inside of the tire very carefully after each flat, as often there will be a sharp something or other stuck in the tire that can cause more of them.  (Good time to look at the rim tape as well.)  If there are visible holes in your tire, you can patch over them with a bit of duct tape to hold together for the rest of the ride, but it's time to replace them . . . they will lead to more and more frequent flats.

As far as spokes go, try to do at least a monthly check on spokes.  Give them all a little flick and see if any of them are more loose than the others.  On your front wheel the spokes should all sound close to the same note when you flick them.  On the back wheel the spokes on the left side of the rim should all sound about the same, and the spokes on the right side of the rim should all sound about the same.  If you find a loose spoke, tighten it (and then true the wheel, tightening spokes as you go around)!  Riding on loose spokes leads to extra fatigue and they'll start breaking.  It's pretty hard to overtighten spokes, but very easy to end up riding on loose ones.

Thanks! I was flicking the spokes one time and they definitely had different tones. I'm not sure what is considered "tight" vs "loose" when I don't have a benchmark starting point. Any way to determine this?

Also, any recommendation on replacement tires? After reading TrMama's response, I think it's time to consider new tires as well... the ones I have are relatively slick (I don't know if they had much tread to begin with). They're OK riding on but my main thing is to prevent flats as much as possible... the Schwalbes seem best for that but seem a little nobbier.

[davisgang90]

I had 3 or 4 flats in a couple months.  Switched over to Gatorskin tires and haven't had a flat in 2 years.

[jeromedawg]

I usually get puncture resistant tubes and put in the green fix-flat stuff.  Seems to work pretty well.

What is "green fix-flat stuff" ?

[Melf]

What is "green fix-flat stuff" ?

I believe he was probably talking about Slime.

[enigmaT120]

I usually get puncture resistant tubes and put in the green fix-flat stuff.  Seems to work pretty well.

What is "green fix-flat stuff" ?

Slime.  That's not an insult, it's the brand name.  I have seen bicycle tubes for sale that had it installed already.  I don't use it, but instead I bought expensive flat-resistant tires.  Schwalbe Supremes.

[Tony H]

I usually get puncture resistant tubes and put in the green fix-flat stuff.  Seems to work pretty well.

What is "green fix-flat stuff" ?

http://slime.com/

[GuitarStv]

Also, any recommendation on replacement tires? After reading TrMama's response, I think it's time to consider new tires as well... the ones I have are relatively slick (I don't know if they had much tread to begin with). They're OK riding on but my main thing is to prevent flats as much as possible... the Schwalbes seem best for that but seem a little nobbier.

The marathon pluses are solid tires that will last forever, but they're very expensive.  I've been using some cheaper Continental Tour Ride tires that are also flat resistant (but much cheaper) for the last year winter and summer with good results.  If you check around I'm sure you could find some close to whatever size you need.

[jeromedawg]

Also, any recommendation on replacement tires? After reading TrMama's response, I think it's time to consider new tires as well... the ones I have are relatively slick (I don't know if they had much tread to begin with). They're OK riding on but my main thing is to prevent flats as much as possible... the Schwalbes seem best for that but seem a little nobbier.

The marathon pluses are solid tires that will last forever, but they're very expensive.  I've been using some cheaper Continental Tour Ride tires that are also flat resistant (but much cheaper) for the last year winter and summer with good results.  If you check around I'm sure you could find some close to whatever size you need.

Someone at Bikeforums suggesting Bontrager AW1 HardCases (not sure the difference between the regulars and lites though). And someone else recommended Conti Top Contacts. What is considered a "good price" for bike tires? The Schwalbes would end up costing $80 from a place I found online. The Bontrager Hard Case lites look like they would cost closer to $60.

[hyla]

I patch and keep riding on it.  I have tires with multiple patches that hold air just fine.

I've don't see much benefit to kevlar tires... used to have them on my road bike, and the really nasty stuff like metal and big glass shards rips them up anyway.  If I'm going to have to replace tires entirely, I'd as soon replace a cheap tire.   And for my commuter bikes, simply having wider tires at lower pressure seems to work well for limiting the number of flats I get, while being cheaper as well. 

[abiteveryday]

I used to get flats at least once a month, with decent commuter tires.    I ride through an industrial area in all weather, and wet glass just slices through things.     So about 5 years ago I switched to Schwalbe Marathon Pluses.      Since then I have had exactly zero flats.   Not a single one.    Are they expensive tires?  Relatively, yes.     Do I still consider them a great value?   Absolutely.

[TrMama]

I think on one spot of the tire sidewall I can see part of the kevlar belt fibers... I'm a bit confused on tires though, as far as which ones I should get. My current tires are rated 700x35c. Should I just replace them with the same Bontrager Select Ks? Or should I consider something else like Schwalbe Marathons? I'm assuming I should stick with 700x35c sized tires in either case...

Being able to see the inner fibers of the tire on the sidewall is a bad sign. I'd replace the tire. Many wheels are able to accommodate a range of tire widths. Narrower tires can be faster, which is nice if you're commuting.

When I buy tires, I get the most flat resistant ones my local shop has that are still flexible enough for me to be able to change myself. The Schwalbe Marathons are great, but they're so stiff that if I ever did have a flat on the road I'd never be able to change it myself. If you're a guy with strong hands, this may not be a concern.

Bottom line, I'd take it into a shop to find out what tire widths you can have (if you think you want to try a narrower tire) and to ask about the spoke stuff.

FTR I never check my spokes and have never had a wheel go untrue and I've been riding for years and years. So it's not necessarily a problem for everyone.

[jda1984]

Also, any recommendation on replacement tires? After reading TrMama's response, I think it's time to consider new tires as well... the ones I have are relatively slick (I don't know if they had much tread to begin with). They're OK riding on but my main thing is to prevent flats as much as possible... the Schwalbes seem best for that but seem a little nobbier.

The marathon pluses are solid tires that will last forever, but they're very expensive.  I've been using some cheaper Continental Tour Ride tires that are also flat resistant (but much cheaper) for the last year winter and summer with good results.  If you check around I'm sure you could find some close to whatever size you need.

Someone at Bikeforums suggesting Bontrager AW1 HardCases (not sure the difference between the regulars and lites though). And someone else recommended Conti Top Contacts. What is considered a "good price" for bike tires? The Schwalbes would end up costing $80 from a place I found online. The Bontrager Hard Case lites look like they would cost closer to $60.

I have the AW1 lites on my bike.  I'm told the difference between the lites and the regulars is the lites only have the puncture resistant material on the tread of the tire while the regulars also have it on the sidewalls.  Depending on the tire, $15-20 is probably the low end up to $75+ for fancier (studded, tubeless, extremely light, etc.) tires.

[jeromedawg]

Also, any recommendation on replacement tires? After reading TrMama's response, I think it's time to consider new tires as well... the ones I have are relatively slick (I don't know if they had much tread to begin with). They're OK riding on but my main thing is to prevent flats as much as possible... the Schwalbes seem best for that but seem a little nobbier.

The marathon pluses are solid tires that will last forever, but they're very expensive.  I've been using some cheaper Continental Tour Ride tires that are also flat resistant (but much cheaper) for the last year winter and summer with good results.  If you check around I'm sure you could find some close to whatever size you need.

Someone at Bikeforums suggesting Bontrager AW1 HardCases (not sure the difference between the regulars and lites though). And someone else recommended Conti Top Contacts. What is considered a "good price" for bike tires? The Schwalbes would end up costing $80 from a place I found online. The Bontrager Hard Case lites look like they would cost closer to $60.

I have the AW1 lites on my bike.  I'm told the difference between the lites and the regulars is the lites only have the puncture resistant material on the tread of the tire while the regulars also have it on the sidewalls.  Depending on the tire, $15-20 is probably the low end up to $75+ for fancier (studded, tubeless, extremely light, etc.) tires.

Thanks! Yea, after reading some more I came to that same conclusion (no puncture-resistance on the sidewall for the lites). How are the AW1 lites doing on your bike? And how many miles? Between the normal AW1s and Marathons, it looks like it could cost anywhere from $80-90 for both tires. When you say $75+ for fancier tires, I'm assuming that's the cost *per* tire and not for both?

I'm not sure how the Marathons compare with the Bontrager Select Ks, in terms of tire removal/reinstall, but I wouldn't say the Selects are that easy to reinstall without an amount of jostling. If the Marathons are anything similar, those are starting to sound like the ones to get.

[NoraLenderbee]

Also, is it worth taking the bike into a shop to get the wheels trued and checked over? I've done some work on tuning the derailleurs and such and am pretty comfortable there, but it's more the condition of the wheels, rims, spokes, etc that I'd be concerned over... a few years ago my wife was riding the bike while we were on a trail and ended up with a flat. She kept riding it for at least a quarter of a mile before realizing it. And possibly longer. Not sure if that would have done a number on the rim. FWIW, I have been commuting on this bike no problem and had the same tube that I changed back then up until a couple weeks ago when I noticed it had started going flat as well. So while it seems the back wheel is OK, I'm still a bit paranoid and am wondering if I should have it checked (or, if it's easy to DIY check, how to go about that).

If the bike had fat tires and she was riding on a trail, it's unlikely the rim was damaged, although it could have been if she rode over a big rock (but she'd have noticed that). If there was damage to the braking surface, you'd notice a pulsing feeling when you squeezed the brakes.
Remove the tire and tube. Go around the wheel and inspect the edges of the rim--where the tires hook onto--for dents, dings, and chips. Inspect the braking surfaces as well.

Wheels need to be trued only if they are out of true. Put the wheel, without the tire, back on the bike and spin it. Does it seem to wobble from side to side? Do the brake pads rub on one spot? Does it seem to have a hitch or a jump at any point in the revolution?

For flats, I carry one or two spare tubes. If I get a flat on the road, I change tubes, put the punctured one in my pocket, and patch it when I get home. If I get a second flat, I can always patch one of them on the side of the road.

If you put Slime in the tire, be prepared for a big mess when you do finally take the tube out.

[darkadams00]

I had 3 or 4 flats in a couple months.  Switched over to Gatorskin tires and haven't had a flat in 2 years.

+1

We have five bikes now, and three of them have been switched to Gatorskins. The one with the most frequent usage--my Surly CrossCheck--has several thousand miles over three years on them without a flat yet. They're a bit expensive in comparison to other bike tires, but heck, this is my second vehicle! One set of car tires, a year's maintenance, fees, and insurance would have bought and paid for my bike and every upgrade to it in the first few months of Year #1. For the years since, I'm just piling up the saved dollars and enjoying a sweet ride.

[CletusMcGee]

I realize that this thread is aimed at road bikes, but for MTB there is the option of going tubeless.  If you have a tubeless setup with some Stans liquid in there your tires can take a pretty serious puncture and the liquid will seal the hole right up.  Certainly adds a layer of security and convenience if you are riding out in the middle of nowhere.

[alsoknownasDean]

I'm happy to patch a tube up once, but if it gets a second puncture, I'll likely look at replacing it.

A few months back, the rear tyre got a big hole in the sidewall. I decided to replace the tyre and the tube at the same time.

It's using cheap $10 Kenda tubes that seem to work OK.

They're cheap enough. The advantage of a fairly inexpensive hybrid bike compared to a $1000 bike is that parts are cheap.

[mschaus]

Yes, old tires can start to rot over time. This might be evidenced by increasing number of flat tires. No need to replace with the exact same brand of tire — feel free to shop around for good deals / high reviews. If you like the 700x35 size, then go with that, but your bike can likely support a size smaller or larger if you prefer. $30-$50 per tire is pretty common for good commuter tires. If your tires have splits and cracks, it’s probably time to replace.

Tubes -- I've done just fine with multiple patches on a tube. Maybe 5 before I replace?

As for adjusting spoke tension, that is a pretty advanced home mechanic skill you would probably want to work up to. Lots to learn about before diving in (unless it’s a spare bike!).

After 10 years, the bike probably needs a once-over anyway. You can try to attack that yourself with this checklist I put together, or just use it as a starting point to learn about what is involved. A bike shop tuneup will run anywhere from $50-150 and should include adjustments to spoke tension.
http://mschausprojects.blogspot.com/2015/05/bicycle-tuneup-reference-checklist.html

[Nudelkopf]

I just bought new tyres yesterday! They're Schwalbe Marathons. I haven't tried to put them on yet - I've got ridiculously weak hands, so I'm a bit worried.

I don't patch my tubes - they're too small and finnicky, and for $15 I can get a whole new tube. Not very Mustachian, but I don't get that many flats per year.

[mtnrider]

Last year, I went for a half century with a friend of mine.  He's relatively young and inexperienced cycling longish distances, so I took the opportunity to lecture him about Gatorskins.  I explained how they use kevlar along the riding surface.  I demonstrated how not having a full "jacket" around the sidewalls provides better "give" to the tires.  I showed him how the sidewalls of Gatorskins tend to fray, but are still OK to ride on.  I extolled the many virtues of not getting a flat for 3 years.

Then, 10 miles in, I got a flat.  Staple puncture.  Egg on face.

I do carry a spare tube and those self-adhesive patches, so I got a chance to explain them too.  :)

[jeromedawg]

Ugh, is it normal that patched tires won't hold their air after a few days? I must have patched it wrong or something or maybe my patch kit is too old or too cheap and the glue/patches not strong enough. I patched it Friday night, pumped it up, and couldn't hear any noticeable leaks. I even rode it around a bit after pumping it up. Then we went out of town yesterday and today. Just checked the tire again tonight and it is completely deflated.  >:( grrrrrr

I've had similar experiences patching other tires too with this same kit... is the problem with the kit glue being too old? Should I open a new kit up? The glue seemed pretty tacky to me... I sanded the area down and applied glue to the patch and the area. Only thing is I didn't get a ton of glue on the tire to cover the area of the patch but I did add more glue after applying the patch. And pressed down a bit to try to get the seal. Did I not let the glue dry more before inflating possibly? Is there any way to fix a failed patch?

[dilinger]

Gaterskins are better than a lot of other options, but they still do get the occasional flat.

Get some Schwalbes, though, and you will never again get a flat.  I pretty much don't bother with other tires at this point, other than whatever shitty stock tire a new bike might come with.  Wear that thing out (fixing flats as necessary), and then replace it with a Schwalbe.

I usually go for 5-6 patches on a tube before recycling it.

[cerebus]

I find that gunk they put in the tires works really well. There's an area near where I work that has landmines in it - these bastardy little spines from a nearby treet that used to wreak havoc on me. Getting both tires gunked up solved it for me. If I hit a normal sized puncture I keep riding for a bit and it fixes itself.

[mschaus]

Ugh, is it normal that patched tires won't hold their air after a few days? I must have patched it wrong or something or maybe my patch kit is too old or too cheap and the glue/patches not strong enough. I patched it Friday night, pumped it up, and couldn't hear any noticeable leaks. I even rode it around a bit after pumping it up. Then we went out of town yesterday and today. Just checked the tire again tonight and it is completely deflated.  >:( grrrrrr

I've had similar experiences patching other tires too with this same kit... is the problem with the kit glue being too old? Should I open a new kit up? The glue seemed pretty tacky to me... I sanded the area down and applied glue to the patch and the area. Only thing is I didn't get a ton of glue on the tire to cover the area of the patch but I did add more glue after applying the patch. And pressed down a bit to try to get the seal. Did I not let the glue dry more before inflating possibly? Is there any way to fix a failed patch?

Two possibilities:

1. Second flat was caused by some other issue which would happen whether tube was replaced or not -- thorn might still be in tire, spoke might be poking through rim tape, etc. Be sure to check carefully and try your best to understand why the first flat occurred.

2. I think a lot of people use patch kits incorrectly, and I suspect this is why half the people here don't like them. I've never used the tiny glue-less ones, but this is how it works with traditional patches:

a. Find leak in tube, rough up area with sandpaper and wipe off
b. Apply a small amount of glue to the tube (not the patch or tire), spread with finger, and then wait 5 minutes - I think the problem is that no one does this
c. Now the area will no longer be tacky. Apply the patch, press firmly, wait another few minutes before inflating. Don't put any glue on top of the patch.

That should work! A botched patch job might need a new tube, though sometimes a second offset patch will work (haven't needed to do this in years).

I should write a blog post about this!

Edit: here it is!
http://mschausprojects.blogspot.com/2015/06/how-to-correctly-use-bike-patch-kit.html

[GuitarStv]

I follow the above advice when patching and have never had a patch fail.  In fact, they seem to be stronger than a new tube after patching.  Usually on the road I just swap my spare tube in, then do the patching at home in the comfort of my garage.  Rather than press firmly with fingers, I use a clamp and two small pieces of wood.

[ivyhedge]

I do not patch tubes: 1) despite heavy commuting, I rarely experience flats (my route is uniform); 2) any repairs necessarily weaken the structural integrity of a tube; and, 3) the cost of standard tubes is inconsequential.

[Slam]

My commuter has tire liners.  They work even with cheap tires, and when the tires are worn out, just transfer the liners to the new tires.  It's been about four years now without a single puncture flat.  I got a pinch flat once because my pressure was too low though.

http://mrtuffy.com/product-line.html

[ivyhedge]

My commuter has tire liners. 

Good idea. I had a commuter bike that used the same liners for ~5 years. However, they finally gave way and could not prevent an unintended snake bite. Just like tires and tubes they disintegrate!

[GuitarStv]

Snake bite flats are usually caused by running your tires too flat.  I don't think tire liners would help you out there no matter how new.

[ivyhedge]

Snake bite flats are usually caused by running your tires too flat.  I don't think tire liners would help you out there no matter how new.

True. Tires were at pressure, though: you don't want to know how hard I hit that curb with that rear one. Ouch.

[jeromedawg]

Ugh, is it normal that patched tires won't hold their air after a few days? I must have patched it wrong or something or maybe my patch kit is too old or too cheap and the glue/patches not strong enough. I patched it Friday night, pumped it up, and couldn't hear any noticeable leaks. I even rode it around a bit after pumping it up. Then we went out of town yesterday and today. Just checked the tire again tonight and it is completely deflated.  >:( grrrrrr

I've had similar experiences patching other tires too with this same kit... is the problem with the kit glue being too old? Should I open a new kit up? The glue seemed pretty tacky to me... I sanded the area down and applied glue to the patch and the area. Only thing is I didn't get a ton of glue on the tire to cover the area of the patch but I did add more glue after applying the patch. And pressed down a bit to try to get the seal. Did I not let the glue dry more before inflating possibly? Is there any way to fix a failed patch?

Two possibilities:

1. Second flat was caused by some other issue which would happen whether tube was replaced or not -- thorn might still be in tire, spoke might be poking through rim tape, etc. Be sure to check carefully and try your best to understand why the first flat occurred.

2. I think a lot of people use patch kits incorrectly, and I suspect this is why half the people here don't like them. I've never used the tiny glue-less ones, but this is how it works with traditional patches:

a. Find leak in tube, rough up area with sandpaper and wipe off
b. Apply a small amount of glue to the tube (not the patch or tire), spread with finger, and then wait 5 minutes - I think the problem is that no one does this
c. Now the area will no longer be tacky. Apply the patch, press firmly, wait another few minutes before inflating. Don't put any glue on top of the patch.

That should work! A botched patch job might need a new tube, though sometimes a second offset patch will work (haven't needed to do this in years).

I should write a blog post about this!

Darn, so it sounds like I basically ruined an otherwise fine tube by botching the patch job?

Guess I'll have to look for some new tubes. I think I'll just look for some Marathons in the meantime... should I bother getting the puncture-resistant tubes in addition? or would that be overkill?

[NoraLenderbee]

You can try to peel off the patch, and then re-patch the puncture as mschaus described. It's very important to wait long enough after applying the glue before applying the new patch. 5 minutes is good, but waiting longer does no harm. The glue will still work even if you wait half an hour.
Make sure you spread the glue around so that the borders of the patch are not sticking to dry tube.

I also second the recommendation to look for either another hole, or something still stuck in the tire.

To find tiny leaks, remove the tube, pump it up a lot (it will inflate like a sausage), and submerge it in a bucket of water. You can submerge just one part at a time, you don't need to put the whole tube in water. Look for a tiny stream of bubbles.

In my experience, when the glue in a patch kit dries out, it dries up completely and all at once. If the glue is still sticky, it's usable.

[jeromedawg]

You can try to peel off the patch, and then re-patch the puncture as mschaus described. It's very important to wait long enough after applying the glue before applying the new patch. 5 minutes is good, but waiting longer does no harm. The glue will still work even if you wait half an hour.
Make sure you spread the glue around so that the borders of the patch are not sticking to dry tube.

I also second the recommendation to look for either another hole, or something still stuck in the tire.

To find tiny leaks, remove the tube, pump it up a lot (it will inflate like a sausage), and submerge it in a bucket of water. You can submerge just one part at a time, you don't need to put the whole tube in water. Look for a tiny stream of bubbles.

In my experience, when the glue in a patch kit dries out, it dries up completely and all at once. If the glue is still sticky, it's usable.

Thanks! I'll try peeling the patch off later when I'm at home. The bucket idea is GREAT - I hadn't thought of that. I need to try to do it for the other tube I have, because that one was getting deflated but I couldn't tell where. Hopefully it will reveal where. Sounds like I should still be able to use the glue. It could be the patch that wasn't too good as well, as I recall the patch being partially lifted from either the foil so it's possible there were some debris on it that might interfere with a solid patch job. I'll have to revisit later. Hopefully I can get it resolved. I'm in the process of debating what kind of tire(s) I need to get still (e.g. should I go with a wider tire in the back vs the front, should I get Contis vs Marathons vs whatever else...) - my main criterion are: 1) puncture resistances 2) decent traction for if/when it rains or I'm riding on wet ground 3) tires that will not give me more (or much more) rolling resistance than what the Bontrager Selects offered - I have been happy with the ride on these in general and don't want something that will slow me down.

[spud1987]

I had 3 or 4 flats in a couple months.  Switched over to Gatorskin tires and haven't had a flat in 2 years.

+1

We have five bikes now, and three of them have been switched to Gatorskins. The one with the most frequent usage--my Surly CrossCheck--has several thousand miles over three years on them without a flat yet. They're a bit expensive in comparison to other bike tires, but heck, this is my second vehicle! One set of car tires, a year's maintenance, fees, and insurance would have bought and paid for my bike and every upgrade to it in the first few months of Year #1. For the years since, I'm just piling up the saved dollars and enjoying a sweet ride.

Another +1 for Gatorskins. Haven't had a flat since last fall when I put them on my bike (probably 1000 miles at least). I bit the bullet and bought these tires after experiencing three flats in one month.

[jeromedawg]

Thanks, I may just go with Gatorskins. Looking at the weight in grams, the Schwalbe Marathon Pluses are quite heavy. The Marathon Supremes though look to be a much better weight but are super expensive!

I found that I can get a pair of foldable Gatorskin 700x32s for about $77.90 off ebay where the wire bead ones are the same or more. Not sure if they're clearing these out or what. I may also need to consider getting liners.

I just realized that the thorn I got is a goathead. I thought it was a small lizard bone or something at first but after researching more on "thorns" it came up and looked exactly like the images of "goatheads" I've seen online. Seems to be a pretty vicious thorn to encounter. I'm still not quite sure where I picked it up but they were doing a lot of weed-wacking the morning I rode in when I got the flat. It's possible I picked it up on the way to work, but I would also think my tired would have deflated quite a bit too by the end of the day. So who knows...

I've even read around that gatorskins are no match for these but someone who used a liner did say that it prevented the tube puncture.

[Syonyk]

Goatheads are Nature's caltrops. They're lethal to bike tires. Part of why I rode so little in New Mexico - the things were everywhere.

I've been running armored tires with heavy duty armored tubes, and slime. Heavy, but robust.

[canadian bacon]

I will run a set of tires until they fall apart.  I was able to see the inner tube through the sidewall when I replaced it. 
Soooo, I am not afraid of running threadbare.  I have not seen a relationship between worn out tires and blowing tubes.  But that is just me.   running 700x25C.   Oh, once I figured out that I need to be running 90+ PSI, my tubes have lasted much longer.

With the inner tubes though I typically go new.   My problem is that with a narrow tire, it is a real POA to replace the innertube (unlike with a mountainbike innertube that requires no effort.) 

When repairing tubes, I would periodically do a bad job sealing the hole or there would be another hole.  This would all waste my time....  repair the tube, replace the tube, button up the tire, test it, remove the tube, repair the tube. 

If I was blowing tubes frequently I would probably re-evaluate my system.  Also I pay no more than $7 for a tube

[jda1984]

Also, any recommendation on replacement tires? After reading TrMama's response, I think it's time to consider new tires as well... the ones I have are relatively slick (I don't know if they had much tread to begin with). They're OK riding on but my main thing is to prevent flats as much as possible... the Schwalbes seem best for that but seem a little nobbier.

The marathon pluses are solid tires that will last forever, but they're very expensive.  I've been using some cheaper Continental Tour Ride tires that are also flat resistant (but much cheaper) for the last year winter and summer with good results.  If you check around I'm sure you could find some close to whatever size you need.

Someone at Bikeforums suggesting Bontrager AW1 HardCases (not sure the difference between the regulars and lites though). And someone else recommended Conti Top Contacts. What is considered a "good price" for bike tires? The Schwalbes would end up costing $80 from a place I found online. The Bontrager Hard Case lites look like they would cost closer to $60.

I have the AW1 lites on my bike.  I'm told the difference between the lites and the regulars is the lites only have the puncture resistant material on the tread of the tire while the regulars also have it on the sidewalls.  Depending on the tire, $15-20 is probably the low end up to $75+ for fancier (studded, tubeless, extremely light, etc.) tires.

Thanks! Yea, after reading some more I came to that same conclusion (no puncture-resistance on the sidewall for the lites). How are the AW1 lites doing on your bike? And how many miles? Between the normal AW1s and Marathons, it looks like it could cost anywhere from $80-90 for both tires. When you say $75+ for fancier tires, I'm assuming that's the cost *per* tire and not for both?

I'm not sure how the Marathons compare with the Bontrager Select Ks, in terms of tire removal/reinstall, but I wouldn't say the Selects are that easy to reinstall without an amount of jostling. If the Marathons are anything similar, those are starting to sound like the ones to get.

I've only had the Aw-1s a few months, after I took my studded winter tires off in early March.  They're holding up okay, not a ton of miles on them.  Before those I had Continental Super Sport tires.  I rode those for a few years, probably close to 4,000 miles over that time.  I would have put them back on, but when I took them off to mount my winter tires, I noticed the rear had more wear than the front and thought it better to get new ones.

Yes, my winter tires were $75 per tire.  I maybe could have found them cheaper somewhere other than the LBS, but I wanted to see them in person before I bought and I had a gift card that offset the difference in price between the LBS and some place online.  They are 45NRTH Xerxes tires.  They seemed better than the Nokian studded tires I was considering before that and only a few dollars more each.

[mskyle]

I do not patch tubes: 1) despite heavy commuting, I rarely experience flats (my route is uniform); 2) any repairs necessarily weaken the structural integrity of a tube; and, 3) the cost of standard tubes is inconsequential.

This is me also... I almost never get flats, in spite of urban riding over plenty of potholes and the occasional hunk of glass than I can't avoid, and tubes are cheap. I used to have the Bontrager hardcase lites on my Trek, which were great but after 5 years they were showing some rot on the sidewalls, so I replaced them with Gatorskins which have been working out great.

I'm actually even less Mustachian, in that if I'm closer to a bike shop than I am to home or work, I'll pay $12 to get the tube replaced. I'm (unrealistically) hoping I never get a flat on the Schwalbe Marathons on my internally-geared, hub-brake, enclosed-chain bike, but if I do, I will definitely be taking it to the shop.

[GuitarStv]

So, to all the people who don't patch tubes . . . do you light dollar bills on fire every once in a while for the fun of it too?  I mean it's only a dollar now and again and you clearly enjoy wasting money for no reason. . .

[Syonyk]

So, to all the people who don't patch tubes . . . do you light dollar bills on fire every once in a while for the fun of it too?  I mean it's only a dollar now and again and you clearly enjoy wasting money for no reason. . .

The vast majority of my tube failures have involved the stem and not the outer surface of the tube - I'm open to options on how to patch that, but I've yet to find a good method.

I've also replaced tubes when they are "well perforated" by lots of sharp desert plants.  A tire full of goatheads leaves a ton of micro-holes that all leak.

[jeromedawg]

So, to all the people who don't patch tubes . . . do you light dollar bills on fire every once in a while for the fun of it too?  I mean it's only a dollar now and again and you clearly enjoy wasting money for no reason. . .

Speaking of dollar bills, I think I've seen instances where people will line the inside punctured area of a tire and it works. That seems like a great way to hide extra cash... except for when a thief steals your wheels.

[mskyle]

So, to all the people who don't patch tubes . . . do you light dollar bills on fire every once in a while for the fun of it too?  I mean it's only a dollar now and again and you clearly enjoy wasting money for no reason. . .

$5 ($12 if I'm lazy and go to the bike shop) to 1) avoid the work of patching the tube; 2) avoid the work of having to diagnose the cause of the failure (which may be stem-related or snakebite rather than puncture related); and 3) dramatically reduce the chance that I'll have to change a tire again in the next six months (possibly by the side of the road, in the rain/snow/heat, while wearing a dress)? WELL WORTH IT! Even a correctly-patched tube is just not as strong as a new tube; all tubes wear out eventually, and a tube that has already been patched is unlikely to last as long tube that has not been patched.

For those less lazy than me, how do you keep the glue in your patch kit from drying up in between patches? Given that I only get a flat once or twice a year, I find I need a new tube of glue every time.

[kendallf]

I ride a lot, and I ride a lot on faster tires that aren't very flat proof.  So, flats are part of the necessary price.  I carry a spare tube and CO2, change them quickly on the road, and save the punctured tubes to take home.

I buy these large patch kit from Walmart that come with a bunch of patch material and a good sized tube of glue.  They're a much better deal than the tiny "kit" most shops stock.  I wait until I have 10 or so tubes that need patching (yes, I accumulate that many during the course of a year).  I then sit down in the garage and do them all at once.  They aren't any weaker after being patched; I've never had one blow out or leak at a previous patch.

On the topic of boots for slices in the tire, by far the best boot is a piece of an old tire.  Cut sections about 2" long, and cut the bead off of both sides.  If you get a major cut in the tire, insert the boot to cover the hole, put your new tube in, and ride off.  I have ridden tires booted this way until they wore out.