Author Topic: Downgrade Car  (Read 6356 times)

Mnoz_9

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Downgrade Car
« on: July 21, 2016, 07:16:38 AM »
Long time lurker and finally made an account. I have a sports car that was purchased 5 years ago (facepunch) but is paid off for the last year. Really looking to take the first jump and get something more efficient. I am doing quite a few house renovations along with helping others do projects so a car with space is needed. Currently there is a Toyota tacoma with very little rust (their main issue of 2006 chassis). By downgrading I would save a large chunk of money on insurance, gas (current car has to be premium gas), and overall maintenance would be cheaper. I understand I will probably take a lot of punches for wanting a pickup, but with gas mileage 22/26 and be able to add an easy 150-200 on weekend income I feel it would balance out quite in my favor in the long run. Every hardware store is at least 15 miles plus away but I do bike to work everyday, so the current car is for grocery/hauling only right now.
The money: (best part)
2006 Toyota Tacoma, 110K miles, tow package but the 2.7L engine. 22/26 MPG
Price:$6500

Current car:
$8500 (at lowest, probably more 9500)

Insurance per month drop:
$40

Current car maintenance work:
$3200

New car maintenance work:
? No codes on the system yet

Sell and invest the extra? I would like a honda crv or something similar, but they do not allow a tow hitch (wouldnt be able to make extra cash on weekends), and usually cost much more then the tacoma. Right now its just me and the misses and we do not plan on kids for the next 10 years at least. Income shouldnt matter if your living happy right?

JLee

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Re: Downgrade Car
« Reply #1 on: July 21, 2016, 07:47:51 AM »
What do you have now where buying a Tacoma would save you on fuel?

SeaEhm

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Re: Downgrade Car
« Reply #2 on: July 21, 2016, 08:49:51 AM »
What do you have now where buying a Tacoma would save you on fuel?

Sports car that needs premium gas.


CRVs can tow up to 1500 lbs.  Would take a year to get anywhere though as the CRV is quite underpowered.

A truck or SUV seems to be a bit more functional.  An extra $2000 in the bank and lowering your insurance nearly $500 net is a good move if you don't mind giving up the feel and performance of your car.

JLee

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Re: Downgrade Car
« Reply #3 on: July 21, 2016, 08:58:03 AM »
What do you have now where buying a Tacoma would save you on fuel?

Sports car that needs premium gas.


CRVs can tow up to 1500 lbs.  Would take a year to get anywhere though as the CRV is quite underpowered.

A truck or SUV seems to be a bit more functional.  An extra $2000 in the bank and lowering your insurance nearly $500 net is a good move if you don't mind giving up the feel and performance of your car.

That's remarkably unspecific.  Unless it's an RX8, I can't think of too many sports cars where a truck would provide a worthwhile fuel economy improvement.

I've never seen better than 23mpg highway out of my Tacomas, but all I've had is first generation V6 4x4's.

SeaEhm

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Re: Downgrade Car
« Reply #4 on: July 21, 2016, 09:00:26 AM »
What do you have now where buying a Tacoma would save you on fuel?

Sports car that needs premium gas.


CRVs can tow up to 1500 lbs.  Would take a year to get anywhere though as the CRV is quite underpowered.

A truck or SUV seems to be a bit more functional.  An extra $2000 in the bank and lowering your insurance nearly $500 net is a good move if you don't mind giving up the feel and performance of your car.

That's remarkably unspecific.  Unless it's an RX8, I can't think of too many sports cars where a truck would provide a worthwhile fuel economy improvement.

I've never seen better than 23mpg highway out of my Tacomas, but all I've had is first generation V6 4x4's.


lbmustache

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Re: Downgrade Car
« Reply #5 on: July 21, 2016, 09:32:47 AM »
What do you have now where buying a Tacoma would save you on fuel?

Sports car that needs premium gas.


CRVs can tow up to 1500 lbs.  Would take a year to get anywhere though as the CRV is quite underpowered.

A truck or SUV seems to be a bit more functional.  An extra $2000 in the bank and lowering your insurance nearly $500 net is a good move if you don't mind giving up the feel and performance of your car.

That's remarkably unspecific.  Unless it's an RX8, I can't think of too many sports cars where a truck would provide a worthwhile fuel economy improvement.

I've never seen better than 23mpg highway out of my Tacomas, but all I've had is first generation V6 4x4's.

Maybe OP is driving a Lambo or Ferrari

Jack

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Re: Downgrade Car
« Reply #6 on: July 21, 2016, 09:43:10 AM »
That's remarkably unspecific.  Unless it's an RX8, I can't think of too many sports cars where a truck would provide a worthwhile fuel economy improvement.

I agree. My sports car gets better fuel economy than my compact pickup truck, in fact. (1.6L Mazda Miata vs. 2.3L Ford Ranger 4x4.)



Also, how much hauling capacity do you (the OP) really need? You might be surprised at how much stuff you can shove into a 30+ MPG first-generation Scion xB, for example.

Cwadda

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Re: Downgrade Car
« Reply #7 on: July 21, 2016, 09:45:37 AM »
Quote
I am doing quite a few house renovations along with helping others do projects so a car with space is needed.
Do you really need a pickup or would a hatchback do? Or a crossover/SUV type thing? My dad has a Nissan Murano and a $400 trailer that he can tow anything a pickup can.

JLee

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Re: Downgrade Car
« Reply #8 on: July 21, 2016, 09:47:02 AM »
What do you have now where buying a Tacoma would save you on fuel?

Sports car that needs premium gas.


CRVs can tow up to 1500 lbs.  Would take a year to get anywhere though as the CRV is quite underpowered.

A truck or SUV seems to be a bit more functional.  An extra $2000 in the bank and lowering your insurance nearly $500 net is a good move if you don't mind giving up the feel and performance of your car.

That's remarkably unspecific.  Unless it's an RX8, I can't think of too many sports cars where a truck would provide a worthwhile fuel economy improvement.

I've never seen better than 23mpg highway out of my Tacomas, but all I've had is first generation V6 4x4's.

Maybe OP is driving a Lambo or Ferrari

Not with an $8500-9500 resale value. :P

mtn

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Re: Downgrade Car
« Reply #9 on: July 21, 2016, 09:47:10 AM »
What are you towing? You mention extra income if you have towing.

And most any car can tow. A Corolla has a 1500lb towing capacity. I towed at least 500lbs in my Miata (yes, my Miata. Didn't even feel it back there).

Not saying the pickup is wrong for you--I'll probably be getting one soon, one of the $2,000 variety--but I'm just curious what and how much you're towing.

We've towed our boat at various times with everything from a 3/4 ton pickup to a FWD minivan to a RWD sedan, everything from US to Japan to Germany. I think the Swedes missed out, but only because we had a truck at the time. And we didn't have the truck for towing--it just happened to be the best vehicle for the job.

mtn

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Re: Downgrade Car
« Reply #10 on: July 21, 2016, 09:49:18 AM »
Quote
I am doing quite a few house renovations along with helping others do projects so a car with space is needed.
Do you really need a pickup or would a hatchback do? Or a crossover/SUV type thing? My dad has a Nissan Murano and a $400 trailer that he can tow anything a pickup can.

No he can't. He can tow most things that most pickups tow. My Miata could tow most things that most pickups tow. But the Murano only has a 3500lb towing capacity and I wouldn't go more than 500lbs with my Miata--he might actually be towing real stuff. If it is just a landscaping trailer? Sure. if he's moving a bobcat? Nope.

Mnoz_9

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Re: Downgrade Car
« Reply #11 on: July 21, 2016, 12:29:04 PM »
To be specific its a Mitsubishi Eclipse, V6, 3.8. Extra money hauling is trailers for local construction company that a friend owns. Would be just trailers of various sizes of lighter loads. 1500-4500 pounds. Basically its cheaper for them to have someone take the trailers from site to site in town during the day on working weekends then to buy their own truck commercially. (I would think it would be cheaper but I wont argue with good money). My car normally gets about 16/26. Premium gas here is usually about 70 cents to 1 dollar more a gallon. Midwest area. I could get a hatchback with a hitch, but still new and trying to take the first step to saving without having to sacrifice everything. Since its used mostly for side work and my own hauling, not commuting. The toyota i can for see running a good 100k miles without putting to much money into it. A hatchback may work but winter would be tougher. Crossover CRV/Toyota Rav4 style would cost more then the tacoma by far for that year and mileage. It has to be reliable enough to haul on weekends needed for the extra money, otherwise I would probably just sell the Eclipse and get a car good enough for grocery/hardware runs. Insurance quote came back and its a 55 dollar a month saving, gas savings would not be a ton as i dont drive regularly anywhere except groceries/hardware store so maybe 10 a month. Just added the bonus of making money on the weekends.

Mnoz_9

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Re: Downgrade Car
« Reply #12 on: July 21, 2016, 12:46:27 PM »
I guess its also not really about MPG, its more NOT taking a loan out, downgrading, but adding the additional income. I just cant find a deal with another crossover/suv/truck that allows that capacity in the upper midwest (4x4 or crossovers are insanely over priced here) without spending more then the current cars value. My goal was to sell, make some money to start investments, while gaining additional income/second income, saving on insurance all at one go. I could in theory go get a crossover/suv that is alot older or more miles for less but not ready to take that step yet. Started biking to work in the spring, and just feel this would be a good medium step to go to.

Jack

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Re: Downgrade Car
« Reply #13 on: July 21, 2016, 12:52:13 PM »
To be specific its a Mitsubishi Eclipse, V6, 3.8.

Oh, I thought you said it was a sports car! : P

Yeah, get rid of it.

(If it were an Eclipse from the DSM era, that would be different.)

Extra money hauling is trailers for local construction company that a friend owns. Would be just trailers of various sizes of lighter loads. 1500-4500 pounds.

...

The toyota i can for see running a good 100k miles without putting to much money into it.

Okay, that's sufficient basis to make a truck a legitimate choice (and maybe even a full-size one at that, because 4500 lbs might be a lot for a compact pickup?). If a compact truck is sufficient, then the Tacoma is a good choice vs. other brands because it has incredibly low depreciation.

JLee

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Re: Downgrade Car
« Reply #14 on: July 21, 2016, 01:17:29 PM »
If you're routinely towing 4500lbs, a 4cyl Taco is not going to have the easiest time of it - just FYI.

Mnoz_9

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Re: Downgrade Car
« Reply #15 on: July 21, 2016, 01:18:15 PM »
Jack,

Yeah, the Eclipse reviews and from what I can tell become more of a money pit then it already is. In the cold weather the beads on tires on the low profile style have to be redone due to the fine salt/sand they throw on the roads here yearly, along with engine problems later. Hopefully the pickup can handle 4500, the tow capacity is 5500lbs from what I can find online so a ways under the limit. I would go full size, but around here that means double the cost, or increase in miles. I hate to knock down the gas mileage, get an older car/more miles just to have a full size. Rather skip one or two loads a year that are over 4500. It will be the same trailers, just moving job sites so the weight really wont change much, basically an extra set of wheels to move the trailer so the crews can keep working and move the equipment as its needed to different sites.

mtn

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Re: Downgrade Car
« Reply #16 on: July 21, 2016, 01:34:36 PM »
Jack,

Yeah, the Eclipse reviews and from what I can tell become more of a money pit then it already is. In the cold weather the beads on tires on the low profile style have to be redone due to the fine salt/sand they throw on the roads here yearly, along with engine problems later. Hopefully the pickup can handle 4500, the tow capacity is 5500lbs from what I can find online so a ways under the limit. I would go full size, but around here that means double the cost, or increase in miles. I hate to knock down the gas mileage, get an older car/more miles just to have a full size. Rather skip one or two loads a year that are over 4500. It will be the same trailers, just moving job sites so the weight really wont change much, basically an extra set of wheels to move the trailer so the crews can keep working and move the equipment as its needed to different sites.

You said midwest--is this central Illinois midwest where the biggest hill you'll find is actually a pitchers mound, or is it southern Missouri where you're dealing with the Ozarks?

Central Illinois, I'd say that you don't have an issue. Get a beefy transmission cooler and upgrade the brakes, but you'll be fine. Super hilly area? Get a full size.

And yeah, Eclipse is not a sports car.

Jack

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Re: Downgrade Car
« Reply #17 on: July 21, 2016, 01:38:45 PM »
Yeah, the Eclipse reviews and from what I can tell become more of a money pit then it already is. In the cold weather the beads on tires on the low profile style have to be redone due to the fine salt/sand they throw on the roads here yearly, along with engine problems later.

In general, if you're somewhere with real winters it's worth it to get separate tires for winter. In the long run the extra cost is zero dollars because every mile you drive on one set of tires is a mile you aren't driving on the other, so the two sets together last twice as long.

But never mind that, because you're getting rid of the car anyway.

I would go full size, but around here that means double the cost, or increase in miles.

Weird. Around here I'm almost certain I could get, say, an F-150 cheaper than a Tacoma with equal miles.

JLee

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Re: Downgrade Car
« Reply #18 on: July 21, 2016, 01:45:06 PM »
Jack,

Yeah, the Eclipse reviews and from what I can tell become more of a money pit then it already is. In the cold weather the beads on tires on the low profile style have to be redone due to the fine salt/sand they throw on the roads here yearly, along with engine problems later. Hopefully the pickup can handle 4500, the tow capacity is 5500lbs from what I can find online so a ways under the limit. I would go full size, but around here that means double the cost, or increase in miles. I hate to knock down the gas mileage, get an older car/more miles just to have a full size. Rather skip one or two loads a year that are over 4500. It will be the same trailers, just moving job sites so the weight really wont change much, basically an extra set of wheels to move the trailer so the crews can keep working and move the equipment as its needed to different sites.

A 2.7l Tacoma is rated for 3500lbs. Source.  At the price point you're talking about, I would be surprised if it's 4x4.  Winter tires are always preferable, but even more so with a 2wd truck (without loading weight in the bed, you're going to have a really hard time going uphill in snow unless you have good tires).

mtn

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Re: Downgrade Car
« Reply #19 on: July 21, 2016, 02:28:10 PM »

Weird. Around here I'm almost certain I could get, say, an F-150 cheaper than a Tacoma with equal miles.

There is a reason we ended up with a Tundra instead of a Taco, and there is a reason why we were *really* close to getting an F150 or Silverado instead of the Tundra. Size was not the issue.

Jack

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Re: Downgrade Car
« Reply #20 on: July 21, 2016, 02:49:11 PM »

Weird. Around here I'm almost certain I could get, say, an F-150 cheaper than a Tacoma with equal miles.

There is a reason we ended up with a Tundra instead of a Taco, and there is a reason why we were *really* close to getting an F150 or Silverado instead of the Tundra. Size was not the issue.

I ended up with a Ford Ranger instead of a Taco because the latter would have been about twice as expensive. (My Ranger was $3K, but on Autotrader right now there are literally only two 4x4 manual Tacomas listed for sale anywhere in the entire country for less than $5K. One is in Utah and the other is in Wisconsin. That's for any Tacoma, with any mileage.)

JoRocka

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Re: Downgrade Car
« Reply #21 on: July 22, 2016, 09:56:01 PM »
What do you have now where buying a Tacoma would save you on fuel?

Sports car that needs premium gas.


CRVs can tow up to 1500 lbs.  Would take a year to get anywhere though as the CRV is quite underpowered.

A truck or SUV seems to be a bit more functional.  An extra $2000 in the bank and lowering your insurance nearly $500 net is a good move if you don't mind giving up the feel and performance of your car.
Crv is the worst driving vehicle ever. I can't ride in one for more than 15 minutes before om completely miserable. Big fat thumbs down on that one.

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Hurley82

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Re: Downgrade Car
« Reply #22 on: July 23, 2016, 12:29:59 AM »
I agree on the crv. We owned one for a year that was gifted to us. It was horrendous. It's loud, suspension felt like a lumber wagon, terrible acceleration and it's awd system was almost worthless.

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DavidDoes

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Re: Downgrade Car
« Reply #23 on: July 23, 2016, 12:39:03 AM »
Have you considered a van or minivan? I know, I know, but hear me out!

A Toyota Sienna or Honda Odyssey is going to get you way more for your buck than a truck or SUV, because they're a niche market, and often harder to sell.

All of the seats are removable, reliability is up there with a Civic, as-good-as or better mileage than a compact SUV, etc.

FIRE47

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Re: Downgrade Car
« Reply #24 on: July 23, 2016, 03:32:39 AM »
Long time lurker and finally made an account. I have a sports car that was purchased 5 years ago (facepunch) but is paid off for the last year. Really looking to take the first jump and get something more efficient. I am doing quite a few house renovations along with helping others do projects so a car with space is needed. Currently there is a Toyota tacoma with very little rust (their main issue of 2006 chassis). By downgrading I would save a large chunk of money on insurance, gas (current car has to be premium gas), and overall maintenance would be cheaper. I understand I will probably take a lot of punches for wanting a pickup, but with gas mileage 22/26 and be able to add an easy 150-200 on weekend income I feel it would balance out quite in my favor in the long run. Every hardware store is at least 15 miles plus away but I do bike to work everyday, so the current car is for grocery/hauling only right now.
The money: (best part)
2006 Toyota Tacoma, 110K miles, tow package but the 2.7L engine. 22/26 MPG
Price:$6500

Current car:
$8500 (at lowest, probably more 9500)

Insurance per month drop:
$40

Current car maintenance work:
$3200

New car maintenance work:
? No codes on the system yet

Sell and invest the extra? I would like a honda crv or something similar, but they do not allow a tow hitch (wouldnt be able to make extra cash on weekends), and usually cost much more then the tacoma. Right now its just me and the misses and we do not plan on kids for the next 10 years at least. Income shouldnt matter if your living happy right?

I'm in the process of trying this right now as well - just skip all the various ways of getting rid of your car (trade in, car buyers etc) and go right to the private sale. It also separates the buying and selling process which is better for you to save money on the purchase as well.

Just be prepared to put in a good amount of work to get what you think your car is worth.

The other options will most likely just frustrate you and waste your time.


ikonomore

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Re: Downgrade Car
« Reply #25 on: July 23, 2016, 12:06:59 PM »
You are not being realistic on getting $8500 for an eclipse, unless it's a convertible with low miles.  That's a $4k car.

SeaEhm

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Re: Downgrade Car
« Reply #26 on: July 24, 2016, 11:11:56 AM »
You are not being realistic on getting $8500 for an eclipse, unless it's a convertible with low miles.  That's a $4k car.

You guys don't even know his eclipse.

Here is a photo of it.

Pretty spectacular car.