Converting to electric heat pump- Denver

[La Bibliotecaria Feroz]

My husband and I want to go electric and I'm looking for advice about where to start!

We have 5 people living in a very Mustachian 1700 square feet. The basement is 10 degrees colder than upstairs and never gets above the 59-61 degree range. We've been told this is because our gas furnace is too large for our house and doesn't run long enough. The basement is half our living space, including the baby's room, master suite and board game table. Bathroom has nowhere to plug in a space heater and they are not safe for baby's rooms. Owning a $400K house (now over half a million) and having only half of it be usable seems penny wise, pound foolish.

The other reason we want to replace the gas furnace is that my husband can't smell natural gas. We have explosive gas detectors but he is often home alone with the baby and I just hate it.

We are below median income for our area so would qualify for extra rebate goodies.

Are we crazy? Is there some solution we're missing that isn't really expensive (I'm not going to spend a thousand dollars having fans installed to blow heat downstairs) or piecemeal and inadequate?

I would love to hear from people who've done this project- how do we go about finding an HVAC contractor, choosing a system, etc? There's so much to know about it.

[NorCal]

I did this in Denver recently. I don’t have time to write a long post now.

A good place to start is Helio Home or Elephant Energy. Both specialize in home electrification.

[Paper Chaser]

How is the basement insulated? If there's too much heat transfer between basement and the Earth it won't matter what your fuel source is, all of your heat will be sucked out of that space.

[LD_TAndK]

I'm guessing your air vents in the basement are in the ceiling? I currently have this setup with a heat pump. Even with more air flow it won't properly heat the basement. You could try leaving the HVAC fan on high circulation to test this theory?

I'd consider installing baseboard heaters with a thermostat or some other permanent and safer solution for basement rooms.

I do recommend a heat pump for the rest of the house though and it's great to stop burning stuff.

[Jon Bon]

A heat pump is not going to make your basement warmer, likely its not insulated and it is surround by large amounts of coolish earth. And the temperature of that earth? Likely around 60 degrees. Most basements (even new construction) are horribly insulated. Best case you have a crappy fiberglass blanket covering the top 4 feet of your wall. That is not enough, there is also likely zero insulation between your feet and the ground. So your floor is likely permanently 60 degrees all the time, its massive and heavy and only an extreme amount of BTU's would heat that up. When was this house built? If its Older then the 70's there is likely no insulation in the basement almost zero chance there is any on the floor.

So throwing away a perfectly good gas furnace (I assume) would not make your basement warmer. I don't have the math, but I assume replacing working appliances with greener ones is not a good use of resources either. Denver might be a marginal area for a heat pump, they are different from the gas heat you are used too. Gas heat comes out off the vent at 100-120 degrees, feel warm and dry. Your heat pump might only be pushing out air that is 75 when its colder, so sometimes it is like having the ceiling fan on. If you are sensitive to temperature like that it is something to be aware of.

The undersized/oversized furnace story is usually just a tale told to sell more HVAC units. But as other have said, running the fan more often would likely make it more comfortable and cut down on humidity.

[chemistk]

I'm a big fan of heat pumps, and Denver is a perfectly fine climate to install an average model (as opposed to a super high efficiency, high COP model). But there are always pros and cons to taking on a huge project such as this, especially when you have a perfectly fine source of heat right now that's still relatively low cost for at least the near future.

How is the basement insulated? If there's too much heat transfer between basement and the Earth it won't matter what your fuel source is, all of your heat will be sucked out of that space.

I'm guessing your air vents in the basement are in the ceiling? I currently have this setup with a heat pump. Even with more air flow it won't properly heat the basement. You could try leaving the HVAC fan on high circulation to test this theory?

I'll second both these comments - you're working against thermodynamics to heat a space that doesn't really want to stay heated. Unless you have great insulation and air sealing, there's just no really good way to keep a basement living space well conditioned with forced air, especially if the ducting is in the ceiling.

The optimal solution is to give your basement its own means of temperature control, independent of the upper levels. But instead of installing baseboard heat, which is effective but expensive, consider installing a minisplit heat pump for just the basement spaces.

Even if you were to change your house over to full-heat pump, you're still going to be working against the laws of physics. The issue would be compounded even further, because you're going to be running the heat pump longer and getting the upper levels to a higher temperature just to achieve the intended result.

By getting a smaller high efficiency minisplit with 2-3 heads, you'll be able to keep the basement rooms how you want them (year round!), reducing load on your primary HVAC.

That's not to say that you can't also upgrade your primary HVAC system to a heat pump (considering the NG smell issue), in fact that would probably be the most ideal route to go, but if your main goal is keeping the basement conditioned, then starting with looking into minisplit options would be the best course of action.

Of course, another approach, if your basement is kept cool enough by the HVAC in warmer months, would be to settle for baseboard heat (or similar) and then continue on with converting the rest of the HVAC to electric.

[NorCal]

Okay, I have time for a longer post now.  It's mostly my rambling train of thought, so feel free to ask about anything I might have left out.

I installed the heat pump in Denver last summer with the Denver specific rebates.  I know the structure has changed a bit with the IRA, but the total economic value should be roughly comparable. 

I'm overall very happy with the end result, but I had some issues with the subcontractors and communication throughout the process.  I'm happy to PM you contractor-specific details, as I'd still mostly recommend the company I used, but with some caveats I'd prefer not to post on the open internet.

I also admit I'm biased on the topic.  While XCEL is a pretty good utility when it comes to converting to renewables, their lobbying for natural gas interests makes them one of the biggest hindrances to doing anything about climate change in Colorado.  They're a scummy company, and I believe finding ways to cut a gas meter is a public service. 

First off, you want to do a home energy audit with a blower door test.  XCEL subsidizes these if you use qualifying contractors.  Helio Home (which I mentioned in my prior post) does these.  Get multiple quotes for any recommended insulation work, as I hear the companies that do the audits tend to quote high for insulation.  XCELs participating contractors are here: https://co.my.xcelenergy.com/s/residential/home-services/home-energy-audit

One recommendation for an insulation quote is "Colorado Insulation & Whole House Fans" (https://www.coloradoinsulationandfans.com/).  My FIL used them after getting multiple quotes.  He had a good experience, and I used them to install a whole house fan that I'm happy with.

You want to go with an installer that specializes in heat pumps.  A lot of the general HVAC contractors don't want to learn heat-pumps and try to sell against them.  And some of the contractors jumping in the market don't know what they're doing yet.

My contractor recommended Mitsubishi units, and I think they're a great fit for Colorado, and your situation in particular.  I like how quiet they are.  They're also variable speed units, which means they are designed to run for longer periods at lower power.  It's more noticeable in the summer, but it did help mitigate a temperature difference in our upstairs.  It narrowed the upstairs temperature differential from roughly 5 degrees to 2-3 degrees.  So it wasn't a cure-all, but it did help.  A good installer will give you some other options for your basement heating problem as well.  One option with heat pumps is having a single outdoor unit power multiple indoor units.  For example, you can have one outdoor unit power an air handler plus a mini-split in the basement.  We did this for our upstairs.  Zoning might be an option too.  Find a professional that gives you a good feeling about their ability to solve this. 

This will be a pricey project.  Don't be surprised by prices of $10K, even after incentives.  I think it's worth it, but it is a big money commitment.

[La Bibliotecaria Feroz]

Thanks, @NorCal, that is super helpful! Please do DM me with your whole story if you have time!

Was increasing the insulation part of your project? That's an angle I hadn't considered. Wouldn't that involve gutting my house??? That would be a nonstarter!

Have you also gone electric for hot water? We've been focusing on the furnace because the basement is such a quality of life issue, but I'm also wondering if electricity can really get water hot in our climate. I like my baths juuuust this side of "fainting when you get out."

[Bartlebooth]

How about a smart thermostat that has the capability to run the fan in your HVAC system for 20 minutes every hour or so?  Looks like Nest can do it, probably others.  Test before buying by manually switching your fan from Auto to On and see if it evens out the temperature a bit.

Make sure you have a door or something in the stairwell to prevent chimney effect--cold air will sink into the basement and hot air will rise out of it.  I can often feel the wind on my face if I stand in my stairwell so I hang a blanket in the winter.  Very mustachian.  Depending on location of HVAC supply and return ducts you may or may not want a completely rigid air-tight seal.

[NorCal]

Thanks, @NorCal, that is super helpful! Please do DM me with your whole story if you have time!

Was increasing the insulation part of your project? That's an angle I hadn't considered. Wouldn't that involve gutting my house??? That would be a nonstarter!

Have you also gone electric for hot water? We've been focusing on the furnace because the basement is such a quality of life issue, but I'm also wondering if electricity can really get water hot in our climate. I like my baths juuuust this side of "fainting when you get out."

I highly recommend a heat-pump water heater.  It has been the highest ROI efficiency project I've done, and those same home electrification companies I mentioned will install them.

For comparisons sake, my old gas water heater used about 285 therms of gas a year (family of 4) and my new heat pump water heater uses right around 1,200kWh/yr.  That pays for itself rather quickly with the new incentives and current XCEL gas prices.

As an added bonus for you, they actually run more efficiently if you crank up the temperature.  Setting the temperature higher means the electric backup elements kick on less frequently, which ends up using less electricity.  Mine is set at 142, although the temp drops by about 10 degrees between there and my faucet.  I believe it goes up to 150.

Depending on what else you have that runs on gas, you might be close to disconnecting your gas meter, which is a fixed $11/month you could get rid of forever.  I haven't done this yet, but I hope to soon. 

[La Bibliotecaria Feroz]

How about a smart thermostat that has the capability to run the fan in your HVAC system for 20 minutes every hour or so?  Looks like Nest can do it, probably others.  Test before buying by manually switching your fan from Auto to On and see if it evens out the temperature a bit.

Make sure you have a door or something in the stairwell to prevent chimney effect--cold air will sink into the basement and hot air will rise out of it.  I can often feel the wind on my face if I stand in my stairwell so I hang a blanket in the winter.  Very mustachian.  Depending on location of HVAC supply and return ducts you may or may not want a completely rigid air-tight seal.

Hmmm, not sure I want to invest in a smart thermostat when we're going electric eventually (I hear with a heat pump, you want it to run at a constant temperature for best efficiency) but playing around with the fan won't hurt anything!

I don't think we could put a door at the bottom of the stairs but a thermal curtain might be possible and would probably be helpful regardless of what solution we choose!

As an added bonus for you, they actually run more efficiently if you crank up the temperature.  Setting the temperature higher means the electric backup elements kick on less frequently, which ends up using less electricity.  Mine is set at 142, although the temp drops by about 10 degrees between there and my faucet.  I believe it goes up to 150.

Depending on what else you have that runs on gas, you might be close to disconnecting your gas meter, which is a fixed $11/month you could get rid of forever.  I haven't done this yet, but I hope to soon. 

Alas, I can't safely turn it up that high. Sniff. On account of the baby.

We "only" have the water heater and the furnace. If we take care of the big 2, there's no gas stove or dryer to worry about! I mean, not that saving eleven dollars a month is a good reason to spend five figures, but it is, as my father would say, "better than a nail in the foot."

[NorCal]

While I'm a huge fan of heat pumps, I also thought of one potential less expensive solution to the temperature imbalance.  This assumes your current furnace is a ducted system.

They now make smart vents that mimic zoning controls.  You'd put them in your upstairs rooms and they would close off heat to the upstairs while the furnace continued to heat the basement.  I had looked at these before I ended up with a heat-pump.

https://flair.co/

They still add up to a lot of money, but are significantly cheaper than an HVAC overhaul.  They're also a DIY project instead of hiring a contractor.

[friendlybadger43201]

Hello! I know your post is a month old, but we're looking to do something very similar and also in Denver. We're replacing an ageing furnace and have now got several quotes for heat pumps (with and without a backup furnace--which we'd unfortunately have to purchase because the existing one is old). I'd love to compare notes if you like, either here or via DM!

[GilesMM]

Okay, I have time for a longer post now.  It's mostly my rambling train of thought, so feel free to ask about anything I might have left out.

I installed the heat pump in Denver last summer with the Denver specific rebates.  I know the structure has changed a bit with the IRA, but the total economic value should be roughly comparable. 

I'm overall very happy with the end result, but I had some issues with the subcontractors and communication throughout the process.  I'm happy to PM you contractor-specific details, as I'd still mostly recommend the company I used, but with some caveats I'd prefer not to post on the open internet.

I also admit I'm biased on the topic.  While XCEL is a pretty good utility when it comes to converting to renewables, their lobbying for natural gas interests makes them one of the biggest hindrances to doing anything about climate change in Colorado.  They're a scummy company, and I believe finding ways to cut a gas meter is a public service. 

First off, you want to do a home energy audit with a blower door test.  XCEL subsidizes these if you use qualifying contractors.  Helio Home (which I mentioned in my prior post) does these.  Get multiple quotes for any recommended insulation work, as I hear the companies that do the audits tend to quote high for insulation.  XCELs participating contractors are here: https://co.my.xcelenergy.com/s/residential/home-services/home-energy-audit

One recommendation for an insulation quote is "Colorado Insulation & Whole House Fans" (https://www.coloradoinsulationandfans.com/).  My FIL used them after getting multiple quotes.  He had a good experience, and I used them to install a whole house fan that I'm happy with.

You want to go with an installer that specializes in heat pumps.  A lot of the general HVAC contractors don't want to learn heat-pumps and try to sell against them.  And some of the contractors jumping in the market don't know what they're doing yet.

My contractor recommended Mitsubishi units, and I think they're a great fit for Colorado, and your situation in particular.  I like how quiet they are.  They're also variable speed units, which means they are designed to run for longer periods at lower power.  It's more noticeable in the summer, but it did help mitigate a temperature difference in our upstairs.  It narrowed the upstairs temperature differential from roughly 5 degrees to 2-3 degrees.  So it wasn't a cure-all, but it did help.  A good installer will give you some other options for your basement heating problem as well.  One option with heat pumps is having a single outdoor unit power multiple indoor units.  For example, you can have one outdoor unit power an air handler plus a mini-split in the basement.  We did this for our upstairs.  Zoning might be an option too.  Find a professional that gives you a good feeling about their ability to solve this. 

This will be a pricey project.  Don't be surprised by prices of $10K, even after incentives.  I think it's worth it, but it is a big money commitment.

How do you annual energy bills look then (gas furnace? gas and electric bills) vs now (electric only?).  Thanks

[NorCal]

Okay, I have time for a longer post now.  It's mostly my rambling train of thought, so feel free to ask about anything I might have left out.

I installed the heat pump in Denver last summer with the Denver specific rebates.  I know the structure has changed a bit with the IRA, but the total economic value should be roughly comparable. 

I'm overall very happy with the end result, but I had some issues with the subcontractors and communication throughout the process.  I'm happy to PM you contractor-specific details, as I'd still mostly recommend the company I used, but with some caveats I'd prefer not to post on the open internet.

I also admit I'm biased on the topic.  While XCEL is a pretty good utility when it comes to converting to renewables, their lobbying for natural gas interests makes them one of the biggest hindrances to doing anything about climate change in Colorado.  They're a scummy company, and I believe finding ways to cut a gas meter is a public service. 

First off, you want to do a home energy audit with a blower door test.  XCEL subsidizes these if you use qualifying contractors.  Helio Home (which I mentioned in my prior post) does these.  Get multiple quotes for any recommended insulation work, as I hear the companies that do the audits tend to quote high for insulation.  XCELs participating contractors are here: https://co.my.xcelenergy.com/s/residential/home-services/home-energy-audit

One recommendation for an insulation quote is "Colorado Insulation & Whole House Fans" (https://www.coloradoinsulationandfans.com/).  My FIL used them after getting multiple quotes.  He had a good experience, and I used them to install a whole house fan that I'm happy with.

You want to go with an installer that specializes in heat pumps.  A lot of the general HVAC contractors don't want to learn heat-pumps and try to sell against them.  And some of the contractors jumping in the market don't know what they're doing yet.

My contractor recommended Mitsubishi units, and I think they're a great fit for Colorado, and your situation in particular.  I like how quiet they are.  They're also variable speed units, which means they are designed to run for longer periods at lower power.  It's more noticeable in the summer, but it did help mitigate a temperature difference in our upstairs.  It narrowed the upstairs temperature differential from roughly 5 degrees to 2-3 degrees.  So it wasn't a cure-all, but it did help.  A good installer will give you some other options for your basement heating problem as well.  One option with heat pumps is having a single outdoor unit power multiple indoor units.  For example, you can have one outdoor unit power an air handler plus a mini-split in the basement.  We did this for our upstairs.  Zoning might be an option too.  Find a professional that gives you a good feeling about their ability to solve this. 

This will be a pricey project.  Don't be surprised by prices of $10K, even after incentives.  I think it's worth it, but it is a big money commitment.

How do you annual energy bills look then (gas furnace? gas and electric bills) vs now (electric only?).  Thanks

I've spent a lot of time looking at this, and don't have a comprehensive answer.  This winter has been much colder than last, so it's hard to make a direct comparison.  I saw a quote that heating-degree days have been ~50% higher, but I haven't been able to verify that.

I can say that it is significantly more expensive to heat than when gas was ~$0.7/therm, but it's more of a wash with gas at $1.6/therm.  It is a higher SEER unit than my prior AC, so it is saving me a couple hundred of dollars each year in the summer.  But I also can't pin this down precisely, as I installed a whole house fan around the same time.  I'd guess roughly half my cooling savings are from the whole house fan and half are from the heat pump.

I'd say it's close to a wash on an annual basis, with lifetime savings really depending on whether natural gas prices go up or down over the next 10-15 years.  I personally think they'll go up over time, but I have about as much confidence in that prediction as I do in my stock picking abilities.

Here's my best estimate of energy usage for my old system vs new system if you want to plug in your utility rates.  Although keep in mind the colder winter difference and the whole house fan difference.

Old system:
Cooling kWh: 1,850kWh
Heating kWh: 560kWh (this was for the air handler)
Heating therms: 375 therms

New system:
Cooling kWh: 1,100
Heating kWh: 5,200

[billygoatjohnson]

Can you just close most of the vents upstairs?

An old landlord told me you can hook up a fan to the air vent (my room was in an attic and super hot, he was suggesting it to pull cold air from the rest of the house). Never looked into it.

How much will it save you yearly in heating? Will it save you?

I have geo thermal with electric heat pump. All my applicances are also electric. It's cool because I don't need Carbon monoxide detectors.

[GilesMM]

While I'm a huge fan of heat pumps, I also thought of one potential less expensive solution to the temperature imbalance.  This assumes your current furnace is a ducted system.

They now make smart vents that mimic zoning controls.  You'd put them in your upstairs rooms and they would close off heat to the upstairs while the furnace continued to heat the basement.  I had looked at these before I ended up with a heat-pump.

https://flair.co/

They still add up to a lot of money, but are significantly cheaper than an HVAC overhaul.  They're also a DIY project instead of hiring a contractor.

$200 per vent? Holy cow.  My vents have louvers for adjustment from wide open to closed and everything in between.  I usually adjust them as needed, maybe a couple times per year.

[La Bibliotecaria Feroz]

Hello! I know your post is a month old, but we're looking to do something very similar and also in Denver. We're replacing an ageing furnace and have now got several quotes for heat pumps (with and without a backup furnace--which we'd unfortunately have to purchase because the existing one is old). I'd love to compare notes if you like, either here or via DM!

I'm still at stage 1: scheduling energy audit! I would love to hear about your quote experiences and compare notes!

Can you just close most of the vents upstairs?

We have already done this- and STILL in the coldest part of winter the basement runs 59-61 degrees with the thermostat set to 69. I didn't have a thermometer downstairs before but I think it was worse before we closed all the south-facing vents.

[Paper Chaser]

Can you just close most of the vents upstairs?

We have already done this- and STILL in the coldest part of winter the basement runs 59-61 degrees with the thermostat set to 69. I didn't have a thermometer downstairs before but I think it was worse before we closed all the south-facing vents.

The dirt on the other side of your basement walls and floor is probably a constant temp between 50-60 degrees below the frost line and warmer or colder than that above the frost line depending on season. Since you're in an older home that likely lacks below grade insulation, it means the several tons of concrete that make up your basement are also the temperature of the dirt all the time.

You can't beat thermodynamics. Having many tons of concrete that always wants to be 50-60F is going to soak up most of the heat that you pump into the basement no matter what energy source is providing that heat. You may be able to improve the insulation in the walls. You can't realistically add insulation below the floor on on the exterior walls. You'll be stuck coping no matter what. If you want to prioritize comfort in the basement, adding an independent mini split system for just the basement (likely set to a higher temp than the rest of the house) would probably be the simplest way.

[economista]

Oooh, I didn’t know you made a topic for this. Posting to follow. LBF and I live 10 minutes away from each other in very similar houses and we have the same basement cold problem. I’ve been getting by using an electric space heater in my office an electric fireplace insert (basically a bigger electric space heater) in our family room. We are also in the process of electrifying and just found out we have to expand our panel if we want to convert the the gas stove to induction :(

[NorCal]

Oooh, I didn’t know you made a topic for this. Posting to follow. LBF and I live 10 minutes away from each other in very similar houses and we have the same basement cold problem. I’ve been getting by using an electric space heater in my office an electric fireplace insert (basically a bigger electric space heater) in our family room. We are also in the process of electrifying and just found out we have to expand our panel if we want to convert the the gas stove to induction :(

I started the electrification process in Denver in 2021.

One recommendation is to do the wiring for everything you want to electrify up-front when you do your panel, even if you're not ready for a whole house project yet.  It's a lot cheaper to hire an electrician to wire 3-4 things at once instead of paying them to come out multiple times.  So running the wiring for an EV charger, heat-pump water heater, stove, etc all at once isn't a bad idea.  This is partly to make sure the panel they install will cover your future needs and not just a single project.

At least there are good new incentives to upgrade panels and wiring for electrification projects. 

[joe189man]

PTF

[geekette]

We are also in the process of electrifying and just found out we have to expand our panel if we want to convert the the gas stove to induction :(

You might benefit from watching Technology Connections' YouTube on Home Electrification.  A bit more on his Connextras video.

[La Bibliotecaria Feroz]

Can you just close most of the vents upstairs?

We have already done this- and STILL in the coldest part of winter the basement runs 59-61 degrees with the thermostat set to 69. I didn't have a thermometer downstairs before but I think it was worse before we closed all the south-facing vents.

The dirt on the other side of your basement walls and floor is probably a constant temp between 50-60 degrees below the frost line and warmer or colder than that above the frost line depending on season. Since you're in an older home that likely lacks below grade insulation, it means the several tons of concrete that make up your basement are also the temperature of the dirt all the time.

You can't beat thermodynamics. Having many tons of concrete that always wants to be 50-60F is going to soak up most of the heat that you pump into the basement no matter what energy source is providing that heat. You may be able to improve the insulation in the walls. You can't realistically add insulation below the floor on on the exterior walls. You'll be stuck coping no matter what. If you want to prioritize comfort in the basement, adding an independent mini split system for just the basement (likely set to a higher temp than the rest of the house) would probably be the simplest way.

A lot of people are making this point and you might be right about the mini split but FWIW I have lived in several older homes- both here in Denver and back home in Virginia- and none of them had this problem with the basement being uninhabitable. Colder, sure, but not like this. I would be happy if it was like 64 down there. Like, warm enough that you can stand to wait for the space heater to get going.

Oooh, I didn’t know you made a topic for this. Posting to follow. LBF and I live 10 minutes away from each other in very similar houses and we have the same basement cold problem. I’ve been getting by using an electric space heater in my office an electric fireplace insert (basically a bigger electric space heater) in our family room. We are also in the process of electrifying and just found out we have to expand our panel if we want to convert the the gas stove to induction :(

Hi dere! Oof, bummer about the panel upgrade just for the stove! One of our hurdles is that we do not even know the amperage of our panel. Actually we have 2 panels- one for upstairs and one for downstairs- and I don't know either one. The home inspector couldn't tell and it's not listed on the panels. So upgrading is probably in our future.

Our rangeis electric but it's regular glass-top. Someday we'll have induction. We cook a lot with cast iron. I realize that could crack the glass but I'm not going to buy new pans for a stove I don't even like!

@NorCal, thank you for the advice to future-proof! Solar panels, electric car and electric hot water are all in the future plans even if not right now. I mean, I will see what kind of case they can make for the whole house project. The heat pump might be the part that costs more money whereas the solar panels and water heater would involve cost savings, but our available cash is suuuuuper limited.

[chaskavitch]

Just FYI, for rebates from the Inflation Reduction Act, I've been looking at this website.

https://www.rewiringamerica.org/app/ira-calculator

There is a 30% rebate for upgrading your electric panel as long as it's done in conjunction with another update, such as solar panels, induction stoves, or heat pumps (all of which also have 30% rebates).  Even if you're over the income cap for discounts, the tax rebate is still a flat %. 

[La Bibliotecaria Feroz]

Just FYI, for rebates from the Inflation Reduction Act, I've been looking at this website.

https://www.rewiringamerica.org/app/ira-calculator

There is a 30% rebate for upgrading your electric panel as long as it's done in conjunction with another update, such as solar panels, induction stoves, or heat pumps (all of which also have 30% rebates).  Even if you're over the income cap for discounts, the tax rebate is still a flat %.

Awesome, that's good to know! We def. qualify for every discount. High five figures in a place like Denver, for a family of 5? Is nothing.

[economista]

Just FYI, for rebates from the Inflation Reduction Act, I've been looking at this website.

https://www.rewiringamerica.org/app/ira-calculator

There is a 30% rebate for upgrading your electric panel as long as it's done in conjunction with another update, such as solar panels, induction stoves, or heat pumps (all of which also have 30% rebates).  Even if you're over the income cap for discounts, the tax rebate is still a flat %.

Thank you so much! This is exactly what we needed to see to get a kick in the pants to make this happen. Our go-to electrician has been super slow about giving us an estimate so we will find someone else. It actually looks like our income gives us a 100% discount on the electrical panel and stove (up to the caps of course).

[chaskavitch]

We've been talking about an induction stove and a heat pump AC for like 2 years now, and I just keep researching and not doing anything, haha.  I'm also hoping an immediate $ incentive will help us get moving. 

I just found that website a few days ago (while reading about Stacey Abrams, not the IRA), and I like how straightfoward it is! 

Edit - Colorado also has a tax rebate for this if you purchase a heat pump in 2023/2024?

"In 2023, a new Colorado State tax credit and sales tax exemption for heat pumps and heat pump water heaters goes into effect. The tax credit (10%) and sales tax exemption (2.9%) add up to an additional 12.9% discount on the price of the equipment, not including installation charges. The 10% tax credit and state sales tax exemption also extends to electrical panel upgrades (if needed for the heat pump or heat pump water heater installation) and energy storage systems.

Passed by legislative bill SB22-051, this tax credit and sales tax exemption is only valid for purchases in 2023 or 2024. Note that the tax credit applies as long as the homeowner pays enough state taxes."

[economista]

I did follow the IRA crumbs today and it looks like for the rebates, each state has to administer them themselves and CO doesn't have it set up yet :( https://energyoffice.colorado.gov/federal-funding-incentives/inflation-reduction-act-tax-credits-incentives

[NorCal]

I did follow the IRA crumbs today and it looks like for the rebates, each state has to administer them themselves and CO doesn't have it set up yet :( https://energyoffice.colorado.gov/federal-funding-incentives/inflation-reduction-act-tax-credits-incentives

It’s worth getting some quotes now though. The companies that do these installations are backed up multiple months.

There’s also rebates available from the city of Denver (presuming you’re within the city limits).  I ended up with a Denver rebate of $9k on the heat pump and something like $1.5k from XCEL. Although they have restructured this since the IRA was passed, so I can’t tell you the current state.

I recommend talking to Helio Home or Elephant Energy. They’ll be able to tell you the current state of rebates, and are probably directly involved in the rule-making process.

[La Bibliotecaria Feroz]

I did follow the IRA crumbs today and it looks like for the rebates, each state has to administer them themselves and CO doesn't have it set up yet :( https://energyoffice.colorado.gov/federal-funding-incentives/inflation-reduction-act-tax-credits-incentives

It’s worth getting some quotes now though. The companies that do these installations are backed up multiple months.

There’s also rebates available from the city of Denver (presuming you’re within the city limits).  I ended up with a Denver rebate of $9k on the heat pump and something like $1.5k from XCEL. Although they have restructured this since the IRA was passed, so I can’t tell you the current state.

I recommend talking to Helio Home or Elephant Energy. They’ll be able to tell you the current state of rebates, and are probably directly involved in the rule-making process.

So sad about the rebates not being set up yet! It does seem to be a leisurely process, though. so getting right on it is a good idea. I'm in the city limits but @economista is not, so we may wind up with different costs and experiences even though we live close to each other!