computer q's (hardware and software)

[scrubbyfish]

Part 1: Battery Replacement

I assume this should be simple, but...

Laptop battery was replaced 2-3 years ago. Recently, orange battery light started flashing fast and persistently. Took battery out, powered only via cord for one week, put battery back in, battery happy for several days, then started flashing fast and persistently again. I assume time to replace again.

Laptop is Asus K50IJ, current battery is Li-ion Battery Pack A32-F82 (LO690L6).
It was suggested I buy via Amazon, but only from a reputable seller, as some send crap.
I have not been able to find this battery on Amazon Canada.
I found one from a high-rated seller that said A42.

How do I know what battery to get?
Is the A32 the key part?
Is is best to buy whatever Asus tells me to buy, and from them directly?

Part 2: What did Windows "repair"?

During the battery issue, I had finished a big document, and went to carry the laptop to my printer, forgetting that I was powered only via cord.
When I unplugged it, the computer (of course) shut down, brought up the funny safe reboot screen upon power.
When I reopened the file, it said in red "Repaired."
Now I don't know if my saved file is the best to use, or the repaired one is.
What would Windows have repaired?
Is there a way I can see what it "repaired" (changed)?
I did do a 'compare' of the two docs, and that feature indicates that the repair was some reformatting, but it was vague.

[zolotiyeruki]

Unless you buy an OEM battery pack ($$$), you're likely getting some cheap chinese junk.  I've been there, bought the junk, was disappointed.  It's *possible* to find good quality packs, but it's tough.

It sounds like it was not Windows, but MS Office that did the repairing.  I believe there's a tool in Office to show any differences between the recovered file and the one you had saved, so you can see how much information was lost.

[scrubbyfish]

Thank you very much, zolotiyeruki :)

I guess I better order the battery through Asus or through my local electronics dept store (like I did last time this came up), so that I get a non-crap battery.

I did find the Compare function in Office, but that's where it seemed vague. Will be open to hearing any others' techniques, too, for figuring out which version of a crazy-long doc to run with after a glitch and auto-repair!

[madmax]

What's the primary use for this laptop? Are you looking for something that will hold a charge and let you carry your laptop from one room to the other? Or will you take it on the road and need something that will work for hours...

The Chinese junk is usually good enough to last for a few months and even after that will work as a power backup for a few minutes. That laptop is 7 years old almost, getting a new batter from Asus will cost $$ (about $100). Look into getting a cheapo laptop for $200 if you really need extended battery life.

[zolotiyeruki]

Good point, madmax.

The "repaired" document will be more similar to what it was when you pulled the plug than the "saved" version, i.e. it's probably the version you want.

[scrubbyfish]

The "repaired" document will be more similar to what it was when you pulled the plug than the "saved" version, i.e. it's probably the version you want.

Does Word offer a log of the changes? My concern is reflected in this comment I found online:

I routinely generate very large word documents that have many headings and subheadings and contain mostly screenshots.  I use the headings and the navigation pane to organize my content and navigate throughout my documents, and the documents are often hundreds of pages long.  It does, however, occasionally crash, usually when I'm changing a heading in one of the documents (say from Heading 2 to 3, or changing it to a "normal" format).

Most of the time the documents recovers with little or no losses when I restart Word, but occasionally I get the "repaired" document when I recover, which is always missing all of the pictures and screenshots I have pasted into the document.  It seems like it should read "damaged!" rather than "repaired", because it's missing all of the non-text content.

[neo von retorch]

I take a look at the Amazon reviews and the "comparable specs".

http://www.amazon.com/laptop-battery-A32-F82-L0690L6-L0A2016/dp/B00IYI99O8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1458398620&sr=8-5&keywords=A32-F82

5200mAh, 11.1V

If it's pretty close to what my current battery does, and the reviews are mostly positive, I don't mind spending the $25-30 for such a battery, when Dell or Asus wants $100-150 for their "official" battery.

What are the date stamps between your "saved" and "repaired" versions? If it's not long, and you have a general idea of what you might have changed between, then go with the safe "saved" version and ignore the "repaired" one.

[scrubbyfish]

Look into getting a cheapo laptop for $200 if you really need extended battery life.

Thanks, madmax, great tip indeed!

http://www.amazon.com/

Okay, I can buy on .com instead (adds quite a bit right now due to exchange rate, but still cheaper than Asus').

What are the date stamps between your "saved" and "repaired" versions? If it's not long, and you have a general idea of what you might have changed between, then go with the safe "saved" version and ignore the "repaired" one.

Yeah, I had changed nothing. I completed the doc, saved it, then uplugged to print. When the power went, I plugged it back in immediately, completed the restart, and the 'repaired' version came up. It's very long and important doc. I had carefully checked at it length before the power issue happened, and am now at a loss.

[zolotiyeruki]

I'm sorry, but you're simply not going to get a 6-cell laptop battery for $25.  Especially when they spell it "DILL". :D Buying bare cells alone would run you at least $35, never mind an actual battery pack.

If you saved the document just before you unplugged the laptop, then the saved version is definitely what you want.

[scrubbyfish]

I went with the saved doc, so hopefully all is well :)

While I wait for my battery to arrive, I have the laptop plugged in and unmoved 24/7. Ideally I can bring it out with me tomorrow. Are my computer contents safe if I shut the computer down properly, unplug it, plug it in at the other location, and restart? Maybe it will do the safe reboot mode thing again, but that's totally okay? Or should I really only be unplugging if it has a battery? Or I could stick in the dying battery for the trip?

[daverobev]

I went with the saved doc, so hopefully all is well :)

While I wait for my battery to arrive, I have the laptop plugged in and unmoved 24/7. Ideally I can bring it out with me tomorrow. Are my computer contents safe if I shut the computer down properly, unplug it, plug it in at the other location, and restart? Maybe it will do the safe reboot mode thing again, but that's totally okay? Or should I really only be unplugging if it has a battery? Or I could stick in the dying battery for the trip?

A laptop without a working battery is effectively a desktop pc, with monitor, keyboard and mouse built in.

Close all programs, then shut down. Wait for the lights to go out, then unplug. Everything on your hard drive is fine when the computer is shut down; it is "non volatile" - just like a desktop pc. The power should go off every night when you go to bed, or whatever - I would suggest making your laptop's power on a power strip you can turn off - being plugged in to the mains and always charging is bad for the battery (even though it controls its own charging, it tends to fall to 95% then charge, and stays warm all the time - heat is bad for batteries, and for computers in general).

[scrubbyfish]

Thank you very much, daverobev! This info from you will make a huge difference to my day tomorrow, much appreciated.