Author Topic: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September  (Read 9092 times)

LeRainDrop

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Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« on: August 19, 2016, 02:18:51 PM »
Hi, folks, a friend and I are planning to take an impromptu one-week trip and decided that we would fly into Billings, Montana, drive through Wyoming, and fly home out of Rapid City, South Dakota.  We have traveled more populated ares of the US extensively, but have never been to this particular area of the country.  I became interested after seeing so many gorgeous photos of national parks in the western US, plus reading a fair amount of mustachian/frugality stories of people driving through similar areas.  Anyhow, we will definitely hit up Devil's Tower, Mt. Rushmore, Crazy Horse, and the Badlands.  We'll probably also try to hit up Red Lodge and Deadwood.

To folks who have visited these areas, are any of these points especially worthwhile or not?  How about other points in this pathway that I've not listed, but you'd recommend we stop?  We're pretty much doing this on a whim, as we leave in less than 2 weeks from now.  We figure we'll see plenty of natural beauty no matter what.

Oh, secondary question, my friend is convinced that we should rent an SUV for this excursion, but I don't know if that's really necessary.  We will do basic hikes and such, but we're not experienced in much "adventure" and are unlikely to go off the beaten path.

Thanks in advance!

NV Teacher

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #1 on: August 19, 2016, 02:26:01 PM »
I don't think an SUV is a necessity.  I drove that route a few years ago in mid October and we were fine.  I'm jealous.  It's some of the most beautiful countryside I've been through.  Enjoy.

Tick-Tock

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #2 on: August 19, 2016, 07:25:55 PM »
I don't think an SUV is necessary, but be prepared for the possibility of snow at elevation. I ran into quite a short but nasty little storm driving between Yellowstone and S Dakota one year in early September.

I really like Custer State Park in SD.

G-dog

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #3 on: August 19, 2016, 07:26:55 PM »
Wind Caves Nat Park and Black hills are great and close to Mt. Rushmore https://www.nps.gov/wica/index.htm

Also Grand Tetons and Yellowstone if you go that far west. And you absolutely do not need a SUV. Roads are good thru all the nat parks unless you go off road.

Are you going to camp? I don't think you need an SUV.  ALso in the general area of Mt. Rushmore and Wind Caves is Custer State Park (check the name) and Jewel Cave. We liked this area more than ?Rushmore, but had planned our stops.

My in laws went to Crazy Horse, but it was so unfinished that they weren't that impressed. It is poorly financed, so I wouldn't expect it to be finished. Great idea. We have never gone. We've been to Rushmore twice, not sure I would go again.

WALL DRUG! You are going to see SO MANY SIGNS for Wall Drug - we avoided it like the plague. Some may find its kitchsiness fun.

We've been to devil's Tower - very cool. And the Badlands. If you want to take photos, you want to be able to see some of these places at sunrise and/ or sunset.

I haven't checked these points of interest on a map, but my feeling is that you've picked some places that are not really on the way to anything else. So, be flexible so that instead of just driving by and waving at something you really want to see. If you want to check someplace out further, it's nice to be able to stay an extra day.

If it is on the way, Mitchell, SD builds a Corn Palace each year. I think it would still be open in October - but check the Internet.

LeRainDrop

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #4 on: August 19, 2016, 07:42:20 PM »
Thanks, everyone, for all the great feedback.  No, we do not plan to camp.
« Last Edit: August 31, 2016, 02:23:22 PM by LeRainDrop »

PFHC

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #5 on: August 19, 2016, 07:43:10 PM »
Lived in MT for 12 years and in Rapid City and Spearfish for 11 years. No on the SUV.

Are you more looking for bigger, tourist intense spots, or smaller, lesser known super cool spots?

Tourist intense, but amazing:
  • Devil's tower
  • Rushmore
  • Crazy horse
  • Deadwood
  • Badlands

Less touristy, completely awesome, FREE, and a little off the path:
  • Tensleeps Lake in the Bighorns. A GORGEOUS hike that you can do some backpacking overnighting around. Amazing area.
  • Spearfish Canyon - Bridal Veil Falls
  • The needles highway and the pigtail bridges
  • Sylvan Lake and Harney Peak (a 7 mile day hike to the highest point between the Rockies and the Alps)
  • Drive 14 through Spearfish Canyon to 385 to 16. Utterly gorgeous.
  • Ditto on Wind Cave
  • Ditto on Custer State Park

Way off the beaten path, FREE, favorite hidey holes:
  • Big Falls/Hippie Hole. A completely rad swimming hole in the Black Hills we went to as kids. Super fun.
  • Tube Rapid Creek from Canyon Lake into town. Loads of kids do it, you'd have tons of fun!
  • Sheridan Lake and Pactola Reservoir cliff jumping
  • Angostura Reservoir
  • Crow Peak outside of Spearfish, awesome hike with great views.

Spearfish is an awesome town. You can probably find lodging there for cheap, there are some good restaurants and fun bars (its a college town), and it provides access to the Black Hills.

LeRainDrop

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #6 on: August 19, 2016, 07:55:42 PM »
Wow, jackpot!!!  This gives us plenty to explore online and piece together a great trip with a little bit of tourist stuff and a little bit off the beaten path.  I wish we could stay there longer!  Thank you, all!

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #7 on: August 19, 2016, 07:57:11 PM »
We did a similar trip last year although we didn't hit Montana. We drove, and it was an amazing trip. We stayed in Rapid City for 6 days and did Mt. Rushmore, the Devil's Tower, Spearfish Canyon, Wind Cave, Custer State Park (Sylvan Lake is amazing!), the Black Hills and Crazy Horse. We also did some local museums, visited Ellsworth Air Force Base which has a cool aviation museum, and Reptile Gardens. We also spent an afternoon in Deadwood and made a pitspoit in Sturgisto say we have been there.

We then stayed a night night in Wall, SD to visit the Badlands (amazing!), the Minuteman Missile site, and, of course, Wall Drug.

We did a chuckwagon dinner one night which was kitchsy and fun. We also visited the Corn Palace and some other spots along the way. We could have spent another week easily because thsere was so much to seeand do.

I visited Montana in 2012, and it is still the most beautiful place I have ever seen. Most of my trip was spent in the Bitterroot Valley, but I did spends couple of days in Yellowstone.
« Last Edit: August 19, 2016, 08:00:29 PM by crispy »

LeRainDrop

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #8 on: August 19, 2016, 08:34:57 PM »
Make sure you aren't going during the Sturgis,ND motorcycle rally as everyplace is packed for miles around and kind of crazy.

Oh, I didn't know about that!  Fortunately, it looks like that has just passed.

Quote
Not sure where your coming from but if you've never been to Yellowstone or Grand Tetons you really should spend your week there. One of the most spectacular places on the planet.

Both of those are definitely on my list, but for a separate visit.  We're not going to get to them in the scope of this trip because my friend will have to get back to work after the week.  I would certainly want to take a long time just in that area alone.  Photos in The Resume Gap blog really turned me on to seeing that in the future.

PFHC

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #9 on: August 19, 2016, 08:56:52 PM »
Personally, if it was me, I'd spend the whole week just in N.and S. Dakota with a side trip to Devils Tower as there is lots to see and do in the area. Eastern Montana is kind of boring IMHO.
This.

Western Montana is incredible as is Yellowstone. Eastern MT, especially Billings, is quite forgettable unless you're there to hunt and fish.

LeRainDrop

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #10 on: August 19, 2016, 09:12:43 PM »
Personally, if it was me, I'd spend the whole week just in N.and S. Dakota with a side trip to Devils Tower as there is lots to see and do in the area. Eastern Montana is kind of boring IMHO.
This.

Western Montana is incredible as is Yellowstone. Eastern MT, especially Billings, is quite forgettable unless you're there to hunt and fish.

Oh, bummer.  We already have our plane tickets into Billings and out of Rapid City.  We'll have to keep those bookends but are flexible on everything in the middle.  Perhaps we can make the drive from MT to SD on the faster side and then focus on that western SD area.

PFHC

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #11 on: August 19, 2016, 09:42:44 PM »
Oh, bummer.  We already have our plane tickets into Billings and out of Rapid City.  We'll have to keep those bookends but are flexible on everything in the middle.  Perhaps we can make the drive from MT to SD on the faster side and then focus on that western SD area.
No need to get bummed! I just did a quick Google search and found Bighorn Canyon. Looks like it would be worth a day trip.

G-dog

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #12 on: August 20, 2016, 06:58:43 AM »
I think Billings is a university town, so that usually adds some interesting options.

Sometimes even the drive between places is beautiful in and of itself. But, there are usually great spots everywhere, it is just harder to find out about and find the more local spots.

On one of our early vacations where we didn't make all of our lodging reservations in advance, we ran into the Sturgis issue! We were doing a long drive with the goal of getting to Colorado, so drove until about 9pm. BIG MISTAKE. We could not find a motel with any room, we had to backtrack back to the east to find a room. It is really frustrating after a long day to stop in every single town looking for a room. Way back then (late 1980s), restaurants etc. would close by 10pm.

We weren't that close to Sturgis, abut another day's drive away. But folks come and go to that event, so it was an absolute mess trying to get lodging for a couple of nights.

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #13 on: August 20, 2016, 09:14:47 AM »
As a native Easten Montanan, of course I take issue with the statement that our corner of the state is forgettable! Enough to delurk and create an account!

While Eastern Montana is not everyone's cup of tea, many, including our Swiss exchange student, love it for what it is: the reason Montana is known as Big Sky Country. This is ranching and cowtown country, but you'll find rare gems along the way. From Custer's Battlefield, to Makoshika State Park, to the Tounge River Winery in Miles City, there's something for everyone. Open your eyes! Explore!

Travel should broaden one's horizons. If in the end, it makes you more grateful for your own hometown, isn't that reason enough to venture to the forgettable destinations?

Tick-Tock

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #14 on: August 20, 2016, 02:25:22 PM »
If you get over to Badlands, there is also the Minuteman Missile National Historic Site--a Cold War missile site.  You get to see a missile silo then go down and see the control room, lounge, etc.  It does require some planning because they are small guided tours (not much room!) but really interesting.

Metric Mouse

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #15 on: August 20, 2016, 03:19:24 PM »
If you do Yellowstone, go in/out over Beartooth pass and up through Cooke City.  Fantastic drive. NE corner of the park, I believe.

Roland of Gilead

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #16 on: August 20, 2016, 03:47:52 PM »
We just did that route (mostly).  Amazing.  Take the walking tour around the base of DT:


oldtoyota

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #17 on: August 20, 2016, 04:29:59 PM »
This is uncanny. This morning, I told the spouse I wanted to get to the states I've not visited. He said a friend in MT has invited us to come visit many times. So then spouse started mapping out a Montana-Wyoming trip.

So I will be following this thread!

PS: Check out this article in the Wash Post:
https://www.washingtonpost.com/graphics/lifestyle/national-parks/
« Last Edit: August 20, 2016, 04:34:36 PM by oldtoyota »

lizzzi

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #18 on: August 20, 2016, 04:48:01 PM »
Used to live in Rapid City. (Husband stationed at Ellsworth AFB.) Ditto to all the recommended places to see. And ditto that you don't need an SUV. Just remember if you are somewhere where buffalo (bison) are roaming around--like maybe Custer State Park--stay in your car and don't get out and approach them.

PFHC

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #19 on: August 20, 2016, 05:29:17 PM »
Just remember if you are somewhere where buffalo (bison) are roaming around--like maybe Custer State Park--stay in your car and don't get out and approach them.
You will run into them. Almost guaranteed. They look fluffy and harmless. They are not. They are 2000 lb, fur coated tanks that can run 30 mph, jump a fence, and will happily gore you and toss you into a tree. Do not approach a buffalo. It happens every year.

In fact, don't approach ANY wildlife. I've been attacked by a marmot. And they're freaking adorable.

Roland of Gilead

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #20 on: August 20, 2016, 06:08:46 PM »
You can approach the prairie dogs at devil's tower safely.  They even have a trail that winds through the town (that is the name of the colony).  They will hop up on their hind legs and bark then duck back into their hole, but sometimes you are 10 feet away before they sound the alarm.  They do carry some sort of disease (forget the name, Tulemaria or something like that) but to date only a few rangers who directly work with them at that park have come down with it.

lizzzi

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #21 on: August 21, 2016, 06:37:01 AM »
Don't prairie dogs carry plague? Not sure about this, but I'd research it if I were going there.

Roland of Gilead

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #22 on: August 21, 2016, 07:07:23 AM »
Don't prairie dogs carry plague? Not sure about this, but I'd research it if I were going there.

They can, but if they get it the whole town dies, so you would kind of know.

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #23 on: August 21, 2016, 07:23:20 AM »
Yes to Wall Drug!!! Be sure to ride the jackalope. Many great suggestions here and honestly you can't go wrong in that area.

I drove through the badlands at sunset and it was incredible. Your itinerary sounds perfect to me. Do gas up when you have the opportunity. Also recommend checking your wipers and headlamps before heading out- those highways can be very dark at night, and there can be wicked rain storms.

Have a great trip!

G-dog

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #24 on: August 21, 2016, 07:35:09 AM »
There are so many prairie dog villages throughout the Badlands too.

Also some burros / donkeys around Custer State park area that like to beg for food.

And buffalo along that road and to Rushmore, scratching themselves on railings along the highway. Just because they seem completely nonplussed by the cars going by them in close proximity, they are not 'tame'.

Oh, and deer! Lots and lots of deer - you can end up with a totaled car from hitting a deer.

You are going to have so much fun (as long as you don't get the plague from the prairie dogs, your car totaled by hitting a deer, Lymes disease from a deer tick bite on a hike, or West Nile virus from a mosquito bite, or major injury from falling down a mountain on a hike --- 😃😀) - no worries!

lizzzi

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #25 on: August 21, 2016, 07:38:17 AM »
I was thinking about the antelope. They'll enjoy seeing those, too.

Metric Mouse

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #26 on: August 21, 2016, 08:00:55 AM »
Used to live in Rapid City. (Husband stationed at Ellsworth AFB.) Ditto to all the recommended places to see. And ditto that you don't need an SUV. Just remember if you are somewhere where buffalo (bison) are roaming around--like maybe Custer State Park--stay in your car and don't get out and approach them.

Unless they look cold. Then you should probably pick them up and put them in the back of the car for a bit.

lizzzi

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #27 on: August 21, 2016, 10:05:46 AM »
Used to live in Rapid City. (Husband stationed at Ellsworth AFB.) Ditto to all the recommended places to see. And ditto that you don't need an SUV. Just remember if you are somewhere where buffalo (bison) are roaming around--like maybe Custer State Park--stay in your car and don't get out and approach them.

Unless they look cold. Then you should probably pick them up and put them in the back of the car for a bit.

No Mustachian would ever be that stupid.

redfreddie3

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #28 on: August 21, 2016, 06:19:10 PM »
We have been to the South Dakota about 5 times, you won't run out of stuff to do.  We adventure a little off the normal tracks but these are my favorite don't miss top 3.

http://nature.nps.gov/geology/nationalfossilday/cenozoic_toadstool.cfm

We loved climbing all over toadstool well worth checking out and it wasn't overrun with tourists.  Do know that when the sign says the trail becomes undeveloped or something like that they really aren't kidding the trail eventually becomes numbered posts across rocky terrain.  It was awesome. Bring sunscreen and water for sure.

http://www.wildmustangs.com/

If you are into horses at all this is a great place to tour. Our first visit I was warned by my husband if this place is a couple mangy mules standing in a pen I'm gonna be pissed and you will never live it down.  We have been to the sanctuary at least 4 times since and have taken a couple different tours and it's beautiful and a cool mission.  Not a fancy pants place, tours are normally school buses and guides are I believe all volunteers.  My daughter opted to sponsor a horse instead of receiving gifts at Christmas after we visited in summer.  The next summer when we visited the sanctuary they found her horse for her which was cool since they run wild.  Early morning tours are best and I would call or check the link for directions, once google tried to send us on an unscheduled adventure.

http://www.bhigr.com/

Small but packed with stuff this museum is awesome.  These people are the ones who found Sue the t-rex from Dinosaur 13 which is still on Netflix and worth the watch.

Happy in CA

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #29 on: August 22, 2016, 10:31:35 AM »
Count me among the fans of eastern Montana.  I drove through last summer, not expecting much due to the "boring" reputation.  I thought it was beautiful!

LeRainDrop

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #30 on: August 30, 2016, 10:49:33 PM »
Friends, I am beginning this vacation in just 18 hours!!!  Thank you again for all of your recommendations and guidance.  I can't wait!

PFHC

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #31 on: August 30, 2016, 11:03:07 PM »
Friends, I am beginning this vacation in just 18 hours!!!  Thank you again for all of your recommendations and guidance.  I can't wait!
HAVE FUN!!!!!!!!!!!

mandy_2002

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #32 on: August 31, 2016, 06:12:49 AM »
I hope your trip has started well!  I'm from the area, and my favorite places are the Mammoth site in Hot Springs (an active dig site, not too big, but very interesting) and the Crazy Horse mountain (like Rushmore, but much bigger, and still actively being built; I've been 4 times in 24 years and it's different every time).  Enjoy!

G-dog

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #33 on: August 31, 2016, 08:29:09 AM »
Please report back on where you go, what you see, what you liked best, etc. it will be great!

LeRainDrop

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #34 on: September 11, 2016, 12:24:15 AM »
Used to live in Rapid City. (Husband stationed at Ellsworth AFB.) Ditto to all the recommended places to see. And ditto that you don't need an SUV. Just remember if you are somewhere where buffalo (bison) are roaming around--like maybe Custer State Park--stay in your car and don't get out and approach them.

Unless they look cold. Then you should probably pick them up and put them in the back of the car for a bit.

Okay, good call, Metric Mouse.  My friend and I rounded up as many of these guys who would fit in our car, and they're now buckled in and ready to go.  But none of them speak English.  Where do you think they'd like to visit with us???

** Back from the trip and had an awesome time!  Will post some details soon.  Your tips were incredibly helpful to us.
« Last Edit: September 11, 2016, 12:26:48 AM by LeRainDrop »

G-dog

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #35 on: September 11, 2016, 01:51:24 PM »
So glad you had fun!
No matter how much you fit in, it is amazing how many places you can't fit in, or want to spend more time at next time.

Metric Mouse

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #36 on: September 13, 2016, 09:44:17 AM »
Used to live in Rapid City. (Husband stationed at Ellsworth AFB.) Ditto to all the recommended places to see. And ditto that you don't need an SUV. Just remember if you are somewhere where buffalo (bison) are roaming around--like maybe Custer State Park--stay in your car and don't get out and approach them.

Unless they look cold. Then you should probably pick them up and put them in the back of the car for a bit.

Okay, good call, Metric Mouse.  My friend and I rounded up as many of these guys who would fit in our car, and they're now buckled in and ready to go.  But none of them speak English.  Where do you think they'd like to visit with us???

** Back from the trip and had an awesome time!  Will post some details soon.  Your tips were incredibly helpful to us.

I guess I assumed everyone had heard of this... http://www.people.com/article/newborn-bison-euthanized-after-tourists-put-in-car-for-warmth

Glad you had a blast! Vacations are fun.

LeRainDrop

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Re: Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota - 1 week, early September
« Reply #37 on: September 13, 2016, 12:01:34 PM »
I guess I assumed everyone had heard of this... http://www.people.com/article/newborn-bison-euthanized-after-tourists-put-in-car-for-warmth

OMG, no I had not seen that story.  It's really a shame that some tourists are such idiots.  The point of trips like this, to me, is to witness natural beauty and catch a glimpse of the animals in their natural habitat -- without interference from us people who, in reality, are guests in their home.  For the most part, it appeared our fellow tourists were following the rules, though there were a handful of idiots getting out of their cars to take photos from too short distance for sure.