Author Topic: Frustrations and best path forward with battery operated yard tools . . .  (Read 1427 times)

GuitarStv

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So, about seven years ago my ancient (15 - 20ish year old?) gas mower died.  I have never really loved having to buy gas, deal with the noise, and change the oil regularly.  I've used yard equipment with extension cords and it always sucks. . . . so the clear winning option was to buy a battery operated one.  For my uses, this is the best of everything - long lasting engine that doesn't require draining gas in the fall and is quieter, no futzing around with extension cords.  Our yard isn't gigantic.

So anyway, the mower that we settled on (I think largely because it was on sale in the fall) was a Kobalt 40v push mower from Lowes.  It has worked well since we got it.  Only complaint is that it doesn't have the same torque as a gas mower, so you've got to make sure that you cut the lawn every week in the spring - if the grass is too high it will keep stalling out and take forever.  It came with a 2.5 aH battery and a 4.0 amp hour battery.  Between the two batteries there is more than enough charge to do our yard, even if you let the grass grow a little too long.  We had a working extension cord trimmer which sucked, but worked well enough that I didn't buy a new trimmer at the time, but it was cool to see that they offered trimmers that use the same battery packs.

So fast forward to now.  The mower still works great.  Two years ago the 2.5 aH battery died, and I replaced it with a 4.0 aH battery.  Now the old 4.0 aH battery isn't holding a charge very well, so it'll probably also need replacement soonish.  Replacing the battery was a PITA because of:

FRUSTRATION #1 - Every vendor of yard tools uses a different configuration of battery packs (although there doesn't actually appear to be much if any real electrical difference between them).  This is done to force you to be locked into one or another brand of tools.  This sucks.  I get why it's probably better for company shares, but it seems to be designed waste/obsolescence.

FRUSTRATION #2 - Here in Canada, apparently Rona bough Lowes a couple years back.  Normally I wouldn't give a crap, but the effect of this is that the Lowes near me became a Rona.  And has stopped stocking Kobalt trimmers (like, they exist on the website but haven't been in stock for a couple years).  So my dream of buying a tool that would match my lawn mower so I could keep using the same batteries seems to be dying, as my suspicion is that the batteries are going the same way.

FRUSTRATION #3 - It doesn't matter if your tool works perfectly if you can't get quality battery to power it any more.  And there is no way you can tell if this will be possible years in the future.  I might be able to pick up a used one somewhere, but it looks like it's going to be a PITA to get batteries.  There appear to be Chinese made clone batteries on Amazon, but given my past experience with similar stuff I'm not sure that these can be trusted to work and not explode in the charger.

So . . . I have a few options here:

1.  Buy a different battery powered trimmer and just keep different batteries for the mower/trimmer.  (Problem being that the batteries are expensive and don't last that long - they degrade each year whether or not you use them.)
2.  Try to sell my mower/batteries on the used market and buy a new trimmer and mower of the same type.  (Problem being that this will consume a fair amount of time that I don't want to spend on this)
3.  Go back to a noisy gas mower, with all the annoying gas/oil requirements.  This still appears to be the cheaper way to go, and given my experience with battery operated stuff may actually be the green option.

Thoughts/suggestions?
« Last Edit: May 12, 2025, 12:23:35 PM by GuitarStv »

uniwelder

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This might not help your current situation, but there are people that make battery adaptors--- 3D printed or injection molded.  You can buy them off Ebay for $10-30 it seems.  I have never used one, but am curious if anyone else will chime in that has.

SweatingInAR

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If you are concerned about being green, you should also consider the emissions of gas powered yard equipment. I'm not sure how much I trust this source, but at least anecdotally:
"The hydrocarbon emissions from a half-hour of yard work with the two-stroke leaf blower are about the same as a 3,900-mile drive from Texas to Alaska in a Raptor," said Jason Kavanagh, Engineering Editor at Edmunds.com. "As ridiculous as it may sound, it is more 'green' to ditch your yard equipment and find a way to blow leaves using a Raptor."
https://www.edmunds.com/about/press/leaf-blowers-emissions-dirtier-than-high-performance-pick-up-trucks-says-edmunds-insidelinecom.html

I'll put in a plug for option 1: Figure out which brand/series of tool you want to buy into and buy that trimmer. When your mower becomes unusable, switch over to the new series. Potentially, watch the used market and snatch one up for cheap.

I have been pretty happy with my EGO 56V branded yard tools, but even they haven't been perfect. Ego has a great selection of tools, and I have confidence that they will be around for a while.
  • Mower from 2018: The self-propelled mechanism died so they sent my father a brand new mower under warranty. He gave me this one and I ignore the self-propelled feature. A wire broke in the handle sometime last year and I was able to fix it after some youtube research to find the most likely failure point
  • 5Ah battery from 2018: Came with the mower, and has degraded to the point that it can not mow my entire yard in one shot. I caught a great sale last week and got a new 5ah battery for $150
  • String Trimmer from 2022: Zero issues, but I am not a power user. I refilled the string for the first time last month
  • 2.5Ah battery from 2022: Runs the string trimmer fine, but is not great for the mower. I get far less than half the mower runtime than with the aged 5Ah battery. Fewer cells in parallel means that the 2.5Ah battery has a harder time delivering the current needed for the mower

Here are my recommendations in general to succeed with battery power tools:
  • Do not store the batteries at full charge. Aim for around 50%. This is standard advice for all Lithium Ion batteries
  • Sharpen the mower blades annually. I never bothered sharpening the blade on a gas mower and it always seemed to cut fine. The performance with a sharp blade is noticeably better with my battery mower and grass type



Sibley

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I know someone who had a battery rebuilt so that it was actually better than original and still worked fine for the equipment. Is that an option?

roomtempmayo

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I vote #2, even if it's a pain.

I've been standardizing around Makita for ~7 years for all my tools, and I've had zero battery issues.

I still use our old gas mower since I figure the embodied carbon in these things is significant, but will replace it with a Makita mower when/if it dies.  Our ~$100 push mower from Walmart has proven very hard to kill.

neo von retorch

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I like #1 and #2 based on what you can push yourself to do!

Started out in Black & Decker equipment... had a super cheap wired weed trimmer at my first house. Then started getting into 20V things, little hedge trimmer, etc. Got a 36/40V hedge trimmer and it's been awesome. After ~10 years the battery couldn't hold sufficient charge, and bought a knock-off 5.0 Ah on eBay that's been quite good (and thus far has not melted or exploded...)

But went with EGO for leaf blower and a beefier weed trimmer. They came with 5.0 Ah and 4.0 Ah respectively. So far they've been very good, but I've only had them for 2-4 years.

My push and riding mowers are gas, as is my 20" chain saw. (Though I do have 20V B&D chain saw and pole saw...)

TL;DR I'm in this thread to be reminded to read what people smarter than me do.

GuitarStv

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If you are concerned about being green, you should also consider the emissions of gas powered yard equipment. I'm not sure how much I trust this source, but at least anecdotally:
"The hydrocarbon emissions from a half-hour of yard work with the two-stroke leaf blower are about the same as a 3,900-mile drive from Texas to Alaska in a Raptor," said Jason Kavanagh, Engineering Editor at Edmunds.com. "As ridiculous as it may sound, it is more 'green' to ditch your yard equipment and find a way to blow leaves using a Raptor."
https://www.edmunds.com/about/press/leaf-blowers-emissions-dirtier-than-high-performance-pick-up-trucks-says-edmunds-insidelinecom.html

I kinda feel that anyone who uses a leaf blower doesn't really give a fuck about the environment anyway?  :P  Leaf blowers are inferior to rakes by any measure I can imagine.  In my observation they seem to have been created to make noise, waste energy, and push leaves off of lawns into roadways by lazy contractors.  They do a terrible job at moving leaves into neat piles.


I'll put in a plug for option 1: Figure out which brand/series of tool you want to buy into and buy that trimmer. When your mower becomes unusable, switch over to the new series. Potentially, watch the used market and snatch one up for cheap.

I have been pretty happy with my EGO 56V branded yard tools, but even they haven't been perfect. Ego has a great selection of tools, and I have confidence that they will be around for a while.
  • Mower from 2018: The self-propelled mechanism died so they sent my father a brand new mower under warranty. He gave me this one and I ignore the self-propelled feature. A wire broke in the handle sometime last year and I was able to fix it after some youtube research to find the most likely failure point
  • 5Ah battery from 2018: Came with the mower, and has degraded to the point that it can not mow my entire yard in one shot. I caught a great sale last week and got a new 5ah battery for $150
  • String Trimmer from 2022: Zero issues, but I am not a power user. I refilled the string for the first time last month
  • 2.5Ah battery from 2022: Runs the string trimmer fine, but is not great for the mower. I get far less than half the mower runtime than with the aged 5Ah battery. Fewer cells in parallel means that the 2.5Ah battery has a harder time delivering the current needed for the mower

It seems like EGO is the biggest battery yard tool company at the moment.  I guess that offers some level of safety.  I'll keep an eye out for them.


Here are my recommendations in general to succeed with battery power tools:
  • Do not store the batteries at full charge. Aim for around 50%. This is standard advice for all Lithium Ion batteries
  • Sharpen the mower blades annually. I never bothered sharpening the blade on a gas mower and it always seemed to cut fine. The performance with a sharp blade is noticeably better with my battery mower and grass type

Yes, I sharpen the lawnmower blade every couple years.  That's just standard maintenance.

How exactly do you go about storing batteries at 50% charge?  My charger will charge them to 100%.  After that point, I put them in the mower and use the mower.  Do you keep stopping mowing and then check the power on the battery, pulling it out when it gets to 2/4 bars?  This seems like a giant PITA and tricky to maintain.  Especially since I've noticed that I seem to lose around a bar every two or three months of storage in the basement in the winter.



I know someone who had a battery rebuilt so that it was actually better than original and still worked fine for the equipment. Is that an option?

Maybe?  The first time the 2.5 ah battery I had started malfunctioning it wouldn't charge.  I took it apart and did some voltage readings, and realized that it was below the allowable voltage for the charger to work with it.  I was able to jumpstart it with the 4.0 battery and it lasted to the end of the year.  The next time it died I saw that the power cells were actually burned/melted inside.  I remember that it uses 18650 batteries in the cell, which I could probably buy online somewhere and try to solder back in.  Assuming that nothing elsewhere in the battery got fried.

But the problem is not the battery (yet), it's more than I can't get compatible tools that use the same battery configuration anymore in this country for a reasonable price.

neo von retorch

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For me, leaf blowers work for things like

- tree dirt and other debris on a deck
- tree dirt and other dirt on rocks, mulch, and other uneven surfaces (where rakes and brooms would really struggle, or you'd spend 2 hours on hands and knees)
- tree seeds and tiny stuff on a driveway

As for raking leaves on grass vs leaf blower, the rake is superior! But for some use cases it's a 2 minute job instead of a 10 minute job.

Daley

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FWIW, we've just switched over to a battery operated lawnmower ourselves as the now decade old Fiskars reel mower, no matter how sharp we got it and how fresh the chain and the damaged wheels replaced, wasn't a thing we could handle anymore (myself especially). Despite already having a Ryobi 40v battery weed eater and blower combo, we went Greenworks 40V G-Max for the power pack as a balance between cost and power, as supposedly Greenworks charging stations and battery pack BMS controls are nice enough to support the ability to reset, recover and recondition the batteries, as well as self-discharging to maintenance levels in extended storage situations to try and maximize battery life. Supposedly. I have not seen such in action as we haven't owned it long enough to. We're still in the initial 3-5 charge cycle run-in period for the new battery.

And as someone who refuses to bag his grass clippings and prefers to mulch them back into the lawn, the leaf blower's pretty decent for quick roundup of loose grass clippings and lawn edging debris on concrete and asphalt to make sweep up or blow-back into the lawn faster and easier. But, I've also only ever owned an electric leaf blower. But yes, rake superiority for leaf cleanup.
« Last Edit: May 12, 2025, 02:46:56 PM by Daley »

GilesMM

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How about just letting the yard go native? Solves a couple problems at once.

GuitarStv

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How about just letting the yard go native? Solves a couple problems at once.

Our yard is native - I haven't watered it, seeded it, or really done anything to it other than mow since we moved in 15 years ago.  But the mowing is non-negotiable.  In Toronto you're not legally allowed to grow lawn higher than 8 inches . . . which our yard would hit in the spring after about three weeks.  (Also we have a dog, and high grass means ticks . . . and also would make picking up poop in the back yard more of an adventure than I'm willing to partake in.)

GilesMM

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How about just letting the yard go native? Solves a couple problems at once.

Our yard is native - I haven't watered it, seeded it, or really done anything to it other than mow since we moved in 15 years ago.  But the mowing is non-negotiable.  In Toronto you're not legally allowed to grow lawn higher than 8 inches . . . which our yard would hit in the spring after about three weeks.  (Also we have a dog, and high grass means ticks . . . and also would make picking up poop in the back yard more of an adventure than I'm willing to partake in.)


How a low maintenance ground cover?  E.g. https://www.torontomastergardeners.ca/gardeningguides/broadleaf-evergreen-groundcovers-a-toronto-master-gardeners-guide/

GuitarStv

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How about just letting the yard go native? Solves a couple problems at once.

Our yard is native - I haven't watered it, seeded it, or really done anything to it other than mow since we moved in 15 years ago.  But the mowing is non-negotiable.  In Toronto you're not legally allowed to grow lawn higher than 8 inches . . . which our yard would hit in the spring after about three weeks.  (Also we have a dog, and high grass means ticks . . . and also would make picking up poop in the back yard more of an adventure than I'm willing to partake in.)


How a low maintenance ground cover?  E.g. https://www.torontomastergardeners.ca/gardeningguides/broadleaf-evergreen-groundcovers-a-toronto-master-gardeners-guide/

I'm not really a fan of having to hunt for poop in undergrowth that covers it or trying to strain said poop out of jaggedy little leaves.  If I could replace it all with moss, I'd totally do that though.  I love moss.  The lawn we've got now is pretty low maintenance - you just need to mow it once a week for about a month in the spring/fall, and then every other week in the summer.

jrhampt

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How about just letting the yard go native? Solves a couple problems at once.

Our yard is native - I haven't watered it, seeded it, or really done anything to it other than mow since we moved in 15 years ago.  But the mowing is non-negotiable.  In Toronto you're not legally allowed to grow lawn higher than 8 inches . . . which our yard would hit in the spring after about three weeks.  (Also we have a dog, and high grass means ticks . . . and also would make picking up poop in the back yard more of an adventure than I'm willing to partake in.)


How a low maintenance ground cover?  E.g. https://www.torontomastergardeners.ca/gardeningguides/broadleaf-evergreen-groundcovers-a-toronto-master-gardeners-guide/

I'm not really a fan of having to hunt for poop in undergrowth that covers it or trying to strain said poop out of jaggedy little leaves.  If I could replace it all with moss, I'd totally do that though.  I love moss.  The lawn we've got now is pretty low maintenance - you just need to mow it once a week for about a month in the spring/fall, and then every other week in the summer.

One of the many annoying things about climate change is the expansion of lawn mowing season.  It used to be late May, maybe early June - August, and it slowed wayyy down in July/August.  This year we had to start mowing in **April**, and we did our last mow in November last year.  So much for no mow May, I guess.

Telecaster

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If you buy a battery operated anything these days you are buying into an eco-system of battery operated tools.   These days, a surprising number of tools are battery operated, even things like table saws and chop saws.  If you buy one brand, the batteries are compatible with all the tools in that brand, but not with other brands.   So your choice kind of locks you in a brand for life.   I recommend going with any of the big three, Milwaukee, DeWalt, or Makita.   They are all big enough and established enough  they aren't going anywhere and have a large selection of tools and batteries.   I'm not sure if they all have mowers yet though.  But they do have other yard stuff, like electric leaf blowers. 

Pro tip:  Home Depot (in the US at least) often sells bundles of tools at a discount.   Like say, a drill, drill driver and two batteries.   You can return the items you don't want for a refund and keep just what you want at the discounted price.   Home Depot doesn't care if you do this, because the bundle is just a way for them to sell below MSRP.

Bartlebooth

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You made a miss-step getting the Kobalt.  Get a better brand and move on.  (option 2)

Greenworks 80V has been good to me.  But the way that they have done 5 different voltages is obnoxious so I would not recommend--just to punish them for that.  EGO seems great too.  Milwaukee and Dewault are great for tools and good/great for yard equipment.

GuitarStv

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You made a miss-step getting the Kobalt.  Get a better brand and move on.  (option 2)

Greenworks 80V has been good to me.  But the way that they have done 5 different voltages is obnoxious so I would not recommend--just to punish them for that.  EGO seems great too.  Milwaukee and Dewault are great for tools and good/great for yard equipment.

Apparently Ego and Kobalt are actually the same company - Chervon:




Although in the past, Greenworks also made Kobalt tools (all their 80V stuff at least) - https://www.smartfamilymoney.com/greenworks-kobalt-batteries-compatibility/.


I hate the false choices and pretend competition.  And every pretend choice has it's own proprietary batteries of course.  What a clusterfuck.  It would be nice if there was a regulation for a standardized lithium connector.
« Last Edit: May 13, 2025, 02:16:40 PM by GuitarStv »

Daley

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I hate the false choices and pretend competition.  And every pretend choice has it's own proprietary batteries of course.  What a clusterfuck.  It would be nice if there was a regulation for a standardized lithium connector.

Don't forget dimensional sizing, too. Take some lessons from standardized SLA industry battery sizes.

But then, they couldn't get away with charging so much for the batteries when they have to compete solely on BMS design and reliability instead of proprietary vendor lock-in.

neo von retorch

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Hey I've been all over the place, past or present having owned:

Husqvarna (chain saw, riding mower)

DeWalt, Stanley, Irwin, Porter Cable, Black & Decker, Craftsman (drills & drivers/router/circular saw, hand tools, clamps, planer, some garden / battery tools, table saw, old riding mower)

Milwaukee, Ridgid, Ryobi, Empire (measuring tape/storage, shop vac, miter/chop saw, levels/squares)

Ego, Kobalt (leaf blower/weed trimmer, $1 bottle opener)

Now is Makita on that chart? Or their own thing? My eyes/brain can't keep up with the information density there. I don't think I own any from that brand though.

Telecaster

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Now is Makita on that chart? Or their own thing? My eyes/brain can't keep up with the information density there. I don't think I own any from that brand though.

Makita is rare in the tool world in that they are owned by Makita.  I had a Makita miter saw for years and years before it crapped out (spring housing broke, possibly repairable).  I got a from a carpenter friend who got it from another carpenter friend.  That thing made a lot of cuts. 

Posthumane

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I recently had a 20v battery pack for a power tool die on me. It would have been about $70 to replace the battery, or $100 to buy the same tool WITH a new battery. I was leaning to the latter, but decided to take the battery apart and found that it was just standard 18650 cells and a BMS board in there. I found which cell was dead, and replaced it with a new one for a $3 (I bought a few 18650s for other uses). This may not be for everyone, but if you're somewhat handy and not scared off by electrical wiring then it's worth looking into. You can even expand the capacity of your existing batteries.

Gone Fishing

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If you decide to go back to gas, I am assuming you will buy a gently used mower for half of retail.  Change the oil once with synthetic oil, then keep it topped up.  It’ll last 20 years and the piston rings won’t be what goes.

TheAnonOne

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I had the Kobalt 80v line

I rebought the lineup over time on sale for greenworks 80v, the tools are superior, and advancements made it worth it.


THAT SAID

The batteries are actually the same, the only reason the Kobalt and Greenworks 80v don't line up is 1 singular line of plastic. I dremel'ed this off and have batteries that work in both toolsets. Easy enough.

Also... greenworks won't likely go away like Kobalt will/did.


It should be fairly obvious once you have a 80v greenworks battery why it won't slot in, make the mod and it's done. There's quite a bit of info on this online too...

https://www.smartfamilymoney.com/use-greenworks-batteries-kobalt-tools/
https://www.reddit.com/r/Greenworks/comments/13fxqux/greenworks_80v_battery_in_kobalt_80v_tool/
https://www.reddit.com/r/Greenworks/comments/16g5hxh/making_greenworks_and_kobalt_play_nice/


EDIT: I see you have 40v stuff, I am not seeing as much online for this, doesn't mean it doesn't exist. I'd do some more reading. If you do upgrade, the GW 80v PRO stuff is nice... spendy but very nice.
« Last Edit: May 13, 2025, 09:13:53 PM by TheAnonOne »

sonofsven

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Ideally, choose a brand that is used by professionals. In construction, the best choices are Milwaukee and Makita. Milwaukee attracts more electricians and plumbers, while Makita pulls in more carpenters and woodworkers.
Makita has been releasing a lot of products over the last few years in the yard care field: trimmers, blowers, mowers, even powered wheelbarrows. They aren't cheap, but they are good quality.
I have a lot of makita batteries, and I charge them in rotation, as needed.
I would check ebay for adapters as was mentioned above, then invest in some good batteries and chargers for makita or Milwaukee. My painter builds his own by making molds with epoxy. He built me a little epoxy mold that accepts my Makita 18v li-ion batteries and has short leads to jump a dead car battery - works great.
If it's not clear, the adapter you're looking for would slot into your kobalt tool but have slots for a different battery. I wouldn't worry too much about matching the voltage of your existing kobalt tool, either.
My painter built a mold so he could use his old dewalt 12 volt drill with a newer 18v makita battery; it spins the drill just fine, maybe even a little faster.

Also, in defence if blowers, if you have any sort of acreage, a blower is pretty valuable. They can be used successfully to make piles of leaves that you can then pick up with a rake, with a little skill.

If you burn debris they are a game changer. Stick a 6' or so 3" steel pipe into the center of your burn pile (or two at cross angles, if you really want to create an inferno). Light your pile and when it's going good crank the blower on and over the pipe and pin the throttle. The resulting blast furnace is something to behold. Readjust the pipe as necessary.
Lol, this might be the wrong forum for the above advice!

ToTheMoon

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Cords are not the end of the world. Are they a bit of a pain? Yup!

Contractors get a pass in my book, as I wouldn't want to be dealing with cords day in and out, but as homeowners?

We pondered the battery route briefly (as I already had DeWalt batteries for a couple of drills from my electrical days) but realized they were already fading, and I didn't want to be replacing batteries until the end of days. I live in a small town, and cannot even imagine the annual battery pile from here, nevermind, world-wide.

Over a decade ago we opted to replace with an electric mower with a cord...still going strong. Trimmer with a cord, still going strong. Circular saw with a cord, still going strong etc. Kids have been using them since about 10 years old and have managed just fine. My BIL is constantly borrowing them because his batteries have failed and he is stuck in the dilemma to replace or not.

I'm no environmental saint, but this is one area where I am glad to have dodged the batteries, and am contributing less to the landfills as a result.

GuitarStv

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Cords are not the end of the world. Are they a bit of a pain? Yup!

Contractors get a pass in my book, as I wouldn't want to be dealing with cords day in and out, but as homeowners?

I have no problems running an extension cable for some things.  I have a corded hammer drill . . . it gets occasional use so I don't mind the extra setup time necessary to run cables when using it.  I have a corded circular saw - most of the cutting I do is in the garage, so no problem.

To do the trimming at my house, it takes about 45 minutes.  With a corded tool, this is increased by 20 - 30 minutes . . . because I need two extension cables to reach all areas of the back yard, one for the front.  Electrical outlets aren't at the most convenient locations, and there is a lot of backtracking required to keep the cables untangled.  Usually one of the cords will come unplugged as they're dragging behind the tool.  This is a giant pain in the ass.  It's what I've been doing for the past fifteen years with our corded weed whacker which finally died.

Lawn mowing is worse.  After using one for a few years, I wouldn't consider a corded lawn mower again - it's just not worth the time and frustration.  Between trying to not run over the cable and pulling the cable around trees/bushes/rock walls it makes a simple task truly miserable.  Maybe if you've got a very small yard, or very few obstructions and easy access to outlets you could make it work.  I've seriously looked into running a push mower a couple times (too hard to deal with the fast growing grass in the spring - requires multiple weekly mows unfortunately, which I just don't have time for).


We pondered the battery route briefly (as I already had DeWalt batteries for a couple of drills from my electrical days) but realized they were already fading, and I didn't want to be replacing batteries until the end of days. I live in a small town, and cannot even imagine the annual battery pile from here, nevermind, world-wide.

Over a decade ago we opted to replace with an electric mower with a cord...still going strong. Trimmer with a cord, still going strong. Circular saw with a cord, still going strong etc. Kids have been using them since about 10 years old and have managed just fine. My BIL is constantly borrowing them because his batteries have failed and he is stuck in the dilemma to replace or not.

I'm no environmental saint, but this is one area where I am glad to have dodged the batteries, and am contributing less to the landfills as a result.

I hear you on this.  The battery thing sucks - it's part of why I'm so upset that there is no generic battery than can be purchased for yard tools.  Imagine if every kids toy came with a custom battery, no rechargable 9v or AA battery standard - how crazy would that be?  The electric tools themselves seem to last just fine - it's the custom designed to be incompatible with each other batteries where the problem comes in.

SpareChange

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Pro tip:  Home Depot (in the US at least) often sells bundles of tools at a discount.   Like say, a drill, drill driver and two batteries.   You can return the items you don't want for a refund and keep just what you want at the discounted price.   Home Depot doesn't care if you do this, because the bundle is just a way for them to sell below MSRP.

This is the way I went last year when I needed to buy yard tools. Home Depot had a late spring sale on a Milwaukee bundle with everything I needed...charger, 2 batteries, string trimmer, and brush cutter attachment. Not exactly on clearance, but maybe 25% or so off.

MrGreen

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I too did the corded mower thing for a couple years. Call it a luxury but not having a cord is so much more efficient, time-wise. Even planning my passes well there would be stops to move the cord. I decided this was one thing it was worth being fancypants on. I borrowed my mom's gas mower for a while too and the significant noise reduction of my electric mower makes the experience much more enjoyable.

I don't know if all batteries do this but I did learn this past winter that if an Ego brand battery (my mower) sits unused for more than 30 days it will automatically begin discharging to 30%. It's some kind of hibernation mode that is optimized for longer storage over the winter.

GuitarStv

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OK, so I'm thinking of stripping out and rebuilding my battery packs by following the instructions here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zevz1v8WLxs&ab_channel=HouseBarons

Looks like to do this I'll need:
- Soldering iron (no problem, I have this)
- Multi-meter (no problem, I have this)
- Pliers (no problem, I have this)
- Various screwdrivers (no problem, I have this)
- 18650 replacement batteries of a specific discharge rate (can find these online, seems to be about $2.50 each and will need 20 of them to do a full replacement . . . which would be preferable to me since partial replacement will likely lead to a faster failure and then a need to rebuild again in short order)
- a universal battery charger that will charge up the new batteries (they won't charge in the pack if completely dead - this seems to be about 40$ on amazon)

So costs all in seem like they'll run me 90$ to attempt the rebuild.  Which is cheaper than a new battery for 180$, but not super cheap.  If it works, future rebuilds would be cheaper as I'd have the universal battery charger.  My only real concern with the procedure the dude is performing is that some of the metal tabs he removes are glued in place and they're getting a little mangled on the removal.  That seems like the part that I'm most likely to fuck up and ruin things.  Debating if it's worth doing with the risk.

sonofsven

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OK, so I'm thinking of stripping out and rebuilding my battery packs by following the instructions here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zevz1v8WLxs&ab_channel=HouseBarons

Looks like to do this I'll need:
- Soldering iron (no problem, I have this)
- Multi-meter (no problem, I have this)
- Pliers (no problem, I have this)
- Various screwdrivers (no problem, I have this)
- 18650 replacement batteries of a specific discharge rate (can find these online, seems to be about $2.50 each and will need 20 of them to do a full replacement . . . which would be preferable to me since partial replacement will likely lead to a faster failure and then a need to rebuild again in short order)
- a universal battery charger that will charge up the new batteries (they won't charge in the pack if completely dead - this seems to be about 40$ on amazon)

So costs all in seem like they'll run me 90$ to attempt the rebuild.  Which is cheaper than a new battery for 180$, but not super cheap.  If it works, future rebuilds would be cheaper as I'd have the universal battery charger.  My only real concern with the procedure the dude is performing is that some of the metal tabs he removes are glued in place and they're getting a little mangled on the removal.  That seems like the part that I'm most likely to fuck up and ruin things.  Debating if it's worth doing with the risk.

If you buy the rebuild parts, it would probably be a good Idea to buy the new battery, too.
Then you'll have a good gauge to judge how well the rebuild performs over time, and if you want to continue doing it.
And you can never have too many batteries.

deborah

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We don’t have a lawn. SO thought that was one of the best features when we bought our home. He still sits there on the weekends when all the neighbours are mowing, smiling smugly even though we’ve been here for well over 20 years. Lawns here need mowing 9 months of the year.

You can never have too many drills, and they come with battery packs. They are often cheaper than the battery pack.
« Last Edit: May 16, 2025, 11:10:19 AM by deborah »

Telecaster

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Lawns are great--if you use them.   I've been eliminating lawn since I bought my house.   I still have some lawn, but only in areas where it makes sense.   

GuitarStv

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I use my backyard on a daily basis in the summer.  Relaxing under the awning on a patio chair while drinking a cool drink and reading a book, occasionally dozing off in the sweltering heat is my favourite hot weather activity.

deborah

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Our summer outdoor setting is on a terrace under an enormous pin oak. No lawn would grow there. Our backyard also has 23 fruit trees and a raised vegetable garden.
« Last Edit: May 16, 2025, 11:44:12 AM by deborah »

MrGreen

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Our summer outdoor setting is on a terrace under an enormous pin oak. No lawn would grow there. Our backyard also has 23 fruit trees and a raised vegetable garden.
WOW, that's fantastic! Jams, jellies, and sauces oh my!

Posthumane

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OK, so I'm thinking of stripping out and rebuilding my battery packs by following the instructions here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zevz1v8WLxs&ab_channel=HouseBarons

Looks like to do this I'll need:
- Soldering iron (no problem, I have this)
- Multi-meter (no problem, I have this)
- Pliers (no problem, I have this)
- Various screwdrivers (no problem, I have this)
- 18650 replacement batteries of a specific discharge rate (can find these online, seems to be about $2.50 each and will need 20 of them to do a full replacement . . . which would be preferable to me since partial replacement will likely lead to a faster failure and then a need to rebuild again in short order)
- a universal battery charger that will charge up the new batteries (they won't charge in the pack if completely dead - this seems to be about 40$ on amazon)

So costs all in seem like they'll run me 90$ to attempt the rebuild.  Which is cheaper than a new battery for 180$, but not super cheap.  If it works, future rebuilds would be cheaper as I'd have the universal battery charger.  My only real concern with the procedure the dude is performing is that some of the metal tabs he removes are glued in place and they're getting a little mangled on the removal.  That seems like the part that I'm most likely to fuck up and ruin things.  Debating if it's worth doing with the risk.
If the cells you have (or are getting as replacements) have tabs that you can easily solder to then it's a piece of cake. If they are just flat top cells, soldering directly to them is not recommended, and not necessarily that easy to do well. If you plan to do many of these, you can buy a cheap spot welder for attaching nickel strips to the cells.