Yes, breaking up the concrete to reroute the plumbing is extra work. I used a circular saw with a diamond blade to cut where I wanted to run pipe (slow going, keep a flow of water going!), then an 8lb sledge to break up the concrete that needed removing. After the pipe was installed, patching the concrete was easy--there was a level floor on either side of the trench, so it was simple to screed with a short 2x4. It's additional effort, but in the context of the whole project, it's not that much, and if it's what you're needing, future Trying2bFrugal will thank present-day T2BF for putting in the effort.
For electrical, install plenty of outlets! Code requirement (for me) is that you always need to be within 6 feet of an outlet (so minimum 12' spacing on a long wall), but I put them every 8'. I put quad outlets in the workshop a few inches above counter height, as well as an outlet in the middle of the ceiling over the workbench. Think about how people will enter, leave, and use a room when you place the light switches. Think about how furniture will be arranged, where lamps might be, where a table or a projector or a microwave or mini fridge will be, and put outlets there. If DW wants a 220V circuit run so that a stove can be installed later, it's a pretty minor bit of effort and expense to do so.* It looks like you're planning for a wet bar near the home theater. Some under-cabinet lights, or a single recessed fixture over that sink, would allow someone to use it without washing out the projector image. Where will your A/V receiver/DVD player/etc live? How will you route wires to the speakers and projector?
I have a few general suggestions to give when planning this build:
1) Focus your attention/time/money on the things that you won't see, or can't change, after the project is done. Layout, plumbing, electrical, structure, insulation. Don't get bogged down on things that can be easily changed down the road, like paint or furniture or cabinets.
2) Be willing to spend time/money/effort to get things done right. I'm glad I spent money to insulate our basement bedroom. I wish I had spent a bit more money to insulate the exterior walls even better. I'm glad I took the time to get the layout just right. I wish I had put in a light in the closet under the stairs. I'm glad I hand-picked all the lumber to get straight boards, and that I replaced the window with a model that has a large opening (that's how the carpet got into the basement!). I wish I had given more thought to how the A/V setup would work (right now, there's wires crossing the room in a few places). I wish I had sprung for a higher-quality bathroom fan. I'm glad I used 36" doors to the utility room and workshop, and the 28" doors I used for the bedroom and bathroom are just fine, but wish I had sprung for nicer (solid core) doors. I'm glad I took the time to get the framing very straight (even got a compliment from a drywall guy!).
3) Outsource the drywall work. I spent about $3100 for labor and materials, and it was worth it 100%. That team of 5 had the entire basement hung in 3.5 hours, and the two-man team that stayed had the whole thing taped and mudded by the end of the day. One guy came back for two evenings the following week to sand it. That makes it...roughly 40 man-hours of work for them to do it. It would have taken me several weeks to accomplish the same work, and I would have done a worse job than they did.
4) Budget for tools. Yes, they increase the budget, but they will also decrease the time you spend. The Paslode framing nailer I bought for $40 saved me many, many hours of hand-nailing framing. And you can sell tools afterward to recoup some of the cost, if you never expect to use them again.
* Watch out for code requirements here--I have a vague impression that if you have a cooktop, you also have to have an additional exit from the basement besides the stairs. You'll have to inquire at your local building department about this, and may moot the whole question.
