Are these good bicycle deals at local co-op?

[The 585]

I know nothing about road bicycles but I'm on the search for one. I checked out two local non-profit bicycle co-operative shops this week, where I found the Redline (top picture) for $435, and the Trek (bottom picture) for $600. These are refurbished bikes that they fixed up from donations/recycling, which I think is a wonderful idea and fully support.

I'm leaning towards the Redline because it seemed to fit me slightly better and shifted smoother. I told them I needed a bit to think about it so I decided to take the weekend to ponder. But are these good deals on these bikes? Hopefully some of you guys who know bikes better than me can give some input!

[sol]

Without knowing the component groups, it's hard to say.  For those prices, you can get perfectly reasonable brand new bicycles, or really outstanding bikes from Craigslist.  So no, I don't think they're particularly good prices unless they're hiding some high end hardware in there.

[Thinkum]

Without knowing the component groups, it's hard to say.  For those prices, you can get perfectly reasonable brand new bicycles, or really outstanding bikes from Craigslist.  So no, I don't think they're particularly good prices unless they're hiding some high end hardware in there.

+1, unless you really want to help out the non-profit by giving them business.

[chemistk]

First Bike BBB:

https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/SearchListingDetail.aspx?id=85726&make=816&model=49811&ss=


Second Bike BBB:

https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/SearchListingDetail.aspx?id=11115&make=750&model=41690&ss=

(Year may be different)


Short story - The first bike probably isn't worth it. The second is actually a good bike, but it's way overpriced. You'll do better on CL.

[Dave1442397]

Keep looking. That Trek has an odd setup, with that setback seat post and the weirdly angled stem and bars.

If you want a cheap but durable road bike, I'd look for something like a CAAD 8, CAAD 9 or CAAD 10. Those are Cannondale aluminum bikes, and they last well. I have a 2011 CAAD 10 that still looks like new after 20,000 miles.

I see a CAAD 9 for sale on Facebook right now for $500, and I've seen them for less, too.

There are plenty of other good bikes out there, so that's just a suggestion based on my own experience.

[nereo]

Keep looking. That Trek has an odd setup, with that setback seat post and the weirdly angled stem and bars.

If you want a cheap but durable road bike, I'd look for something like a CAAD 8, CAAD 9 or CAAD 10. Those are Cannondale aluminum bikes, and they last well. I have a 2011 CAAD 10 that still looks like new after 20,000 miles.

Woot!  I have a CAAD 8 that's a decade old and I still get comments about my 'nice, new(looking) bike'.

OP: It really depends on what kind of bike you are looking for, but I've set my craigslist price range in the $200-400 range and I get plenty of hits for genuinely solid bikes with decent level components (e.g. Tiagra, occasionally 105). Cyclists tend to 'serially upgrade' their equipment and there's a glut of bikes out there that dedicated cyclists call 'entry level' but are in reality good enough for anything but competition and serious racing.

[frugaliknowit]

Do you have any feel for what kind of bike you want?  Are you looking for a commuter bike or a "long distance/touring" bike?  If a commuter bike, are you sure you want "drop bar"?  Have you ever ridden drop bar?  You might want flat bar (which you could swap out, for a price...).  Personally, when commuting in an urban area, I prefer to sit more upright (flat bar)...

You can get a pretty nice NEW bike for +/- $500.

[waltworks]

A brand new, very nice, aluminum framed road bike with really good (Shimano 105, SRAM Rival) components can be had for <$1000. The bikes you've shown here are (IMO) worth 50-75% of their asking prices.

That said, fit is more important than the fanciest component group. Do you actually know what you fit on/like?

-W

[The 585]

First Bike BBB:

https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/SearchListingDetail.aspx?id=85726&make=816&model=49811&ss=


Second Bike BBB:

https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/SearchListingDetail.aspx?id=11115&make=750&model=41690&ss=

(Year may be different)


Short story - The first bike probably isn't worth it. The second is actually a good bike, but it's way overpriced. You'll do better on CL.

Thanks for all the advice everyone, and thank you chemistk for finding those BBBs for me. I'll hold off and keep looking. Sounds like Craigslist may be the way to go, I'll keep an eye out on my local postings!

[The 585]

Following up--

Its good to hear the great recommendations on the Cannondale CAAD bikes. On facebook marketplace I've found a Cannondale CAAD 9 in my area listed for $650 which I might check out (attached picture that is provided). If the fit is right and condition is good, what would be a fair offer on this? Thanks!

[Dave1442397]

Following up--

Its good to hear the great recommendations on the Cannondale CAAD bikes. On facebook marketplace I've found a Cannondale CAAD 9 in my area listed for $650 which I might check out (attached picture that is provided). If the fit is right and condition is good, what would be a fair offer on this? Thanks!

See what it says here - https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/

I'd look, but I don't know what year that CAAD-9 is. I'd say that you could probably knock $50-$75 off the price, but I think it would be a fair deal at $600 or so. If you go look at it, check the components for wear - see link - https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chain-wear.html

If it needs a new chain and cassette, you're looking at $50 in parts for Shimano 105 components (just assuming it's 105, that's lower end and all you really need). If it needs chainrings, then add another $25-$30.

Replacing cassette and chain is easy if you have the tools, and worth buying the tools if you plan to ride a decent amount. I go through chains every 3,000 miles or so, and usually change the cassette at 9,000 miles. Some people go through them faster - part of it depends on how often you clean the drive train.

[The 585]

See what it says here - https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/

I'd look, but I don't know what year that CAAD-9 is. I'd say that you could probably knock $50-$75 off the price, but I think it would be a fair deal at $600 or so. If you go look at it, check the components for wear - see link - https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chain-wear.html

If it needs a new chain and cassette, you're looking at $50 in parts for Shimano 105 components (just assuming it's 105, that's lower end and all you really need). If it needs chainrings, then add another $25-$30.

Replacing cassette and chain is easy if you have the tools, and worth buying the tools if you plan to ride a decent amount. I go through chains every 3,000 miles or so, and usually change the cassette at 9,000 miles. Some people go through them faster - part of it depends on how often you clean the drive train.

Thank you for the link to that. Gives me an idea of what to look for. Might be checking it out today.

Not sure what year it is, but the posting says it is a size 52. Is that likely to fit me being slightly under 5'9", and 150 lbs? The posting also says "does not come with SPD pedals"... so I'm curious if that means it just won't have pedals at all. That'd be another thing I'd have to purchase separately.

[nereo]

Not sure what year it is, but the posting says it is a size 52. Is that likely to fit me being slightly under 5'9", and 150 lbs? The posting also says "does not come with SPD pedals"... so I'm curious if that means it just won't have pedals at all. That'd be another thing I'd have to purchase separately.

My advice:  Go to a bike shop (an actual bike shop and not some sporting-goods store) and have them fit you on a few different bicycles. Pay attention to which style bike you like most (not just the frame size, but also the frame geometry).  Very often they'll even have last-year's model at a discount.  You can test-ride a number of bikes with no real obligation to buy anything (just like you would with a car).
If you don't buy a bike there you'll at least know what to look for on craigslist. But consider giving them some business all the same...

[Dave1442397]

See what it says here - https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/

I'd look, but I don't know what year that CAAD-9 is. I'd say that you could probably knock $50-$75 off the price, but I think it would be a fair deal at $600 or so. If you go look at it, check the components for wear - see link - https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chain-wear.html

If it needs a new chain and cassette, you're looking at $50 in parts for Shimano 105 components (just assuming it's 105, that's lower end and all you really need). If it needs chainrings, then add another $25-$30.

Replacing cassette and chain is easy if you have the tools, and worth buying the tools if you plan to ride a decent amount. I go through chains every 3,000 miles or so, and usually change the cassette at 9,000 miles. Some people go through them faster - part of it depends on how often you clean the drive train.

Thank you for the link to that. Gives me an idea of what to look for. Might be checking it out today.

Not sure what year it is, but the posting says it is a size 52. Is that likely to fit me being slightly under 5'9", and 150 lbs? The posting also says "does not come with SPD pedals"... so I'm curious if that means it just won't have pedals at all. That'd be another thing I'd have to purchase separately.

A 52 sounds small for you. I'm 5'7" and I have two bikes in size 54. I've been fitted by a pro at a bike store, so I know that's the correct size for me. You could be different, depending on proportions, but it would be worth going to a good bike store and see what fits.

If the owner's keeping his pedals, then you'll need to get something. Most bike stores will give you the flat pedals that come with the bike for free, if you ask nicely. If you plan on using cycling shoes with cleats, then a pair of Shimano 105 pedals will set you back another $70 or so.

[The 585]

Thanks for the responses guys. I didn't check out that craigslist Cannondale yet, BUT I did just stop by a local bike shop and test rode three used Cannondales in my size. I've attached pictures... the green one is listed for $700, blue for $600, and red for $500. Didn't look them up in the blue book yet, but any of those you guys would jump on? I really liked the blue one, and may try to offer $50 less than asking.

Let me know what you guys think!

[TimmyTightWad]

Thanks for the https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/ link.
Last year I bought a steel frame Trek , from the 80s I'm assuming, for $200. I think I was massively ripped off

[nereo]

Thanks for the responses guys. I didn't check out that craigslist Cannondale yet, BUT I did just stop by a local bike shop and test rode three used Cannondales in my size. I've attached pictures... the green one is listed for $700, blue for $600, and red for $500. Didn't look them up in the blue book yet, but any of those you guys would jump on? I really liked the blue one, and may try to offer $50 less than asking.

Let me know what you guys think!

I'd jump on any of those Cannondales :-)
As alluded to earlier, what really, really matters is the components ("group-set") that are on the bike.  For example, if the first one has Shimano 105 components, that's a pretty decent price IMO.  If it's just Sora or Claris... I'd pass.

Here's a link to the groupset heirarchy:
Note that some bikes have SRAM components with their own heirarchy - but I think Cannondales all use Shimano unless someone's been creative and swapped components out. SRAM is just another company - no better nor worse than Shimano.  You also occasionally see Campagnolo...

[Dave1442397]

Thanks for the responses guys. I didn't check out that craigslist Cannondale yet, BUT I did just stop by a local bike shop and test rode three used Cannondales in my size. I've attached pictures... the green one is listed for $700, blue for $600, and red for $500. Didn't look them up in the blue book yet, but any of those you guys would jump on? I really liked the blue one, and may try to offer $50 less than asking.

Let me know what you guys think!

The one that fits you best will be the most enjoyable. As stated above, check the component groups to see which bike has the best groupset.

Cannondale had SRAM groupsets on some models - that's actually what came on my 2011 CAAD-10 4, and I must say that I prefer Shimano, now that I've used both.

[nereo]

Cannondale had SRAM groupsets on some models - that's actually what came on my 2011 CAAD-10 4, and I must say that I prefer Shimano, now that I've used both.

Huh.  I was mistaken and learned something new... guess i'd only come across Cannondale's with Shimano, but I'm  far from a bike expert.

I've never had anything but Shimano - what about them do you like better than the SRAM equivalent?

[The 585]

Thanks for the responses guys. I didn't check out that craigslist Cannondale yet, BUT I did just stop by a local bike shop and test rode three used Cannondales in my size. I've attached pictures... the green one is listed for $700, blue for $600, and red for $500. Didn't look them up in the blue book yet, but any of those you guys would jump on? I really liked the blue one, and may try to offer $50 less than asking.

Let me know what you guys think!

I'd jump on any of those Cannondales :-)
As alluded to earlier, what really, really matters is the components ("group-set") that are on the bike.  For example, if the first one has Shimano 105 components, that's a pretty decent price IMO.  If it's just Sora or Claris... I'd pass.

Here's a link to the groupset heirarchy:
Note that some bikes have SRAM components with their own heirarchy - but I think Cannondales all use Shimano unless someone's been creative and swapped components out. SRAM is just another company - no better nor worse than Shimano.  You also occasionally see Campagnolo...

Thanks for the link, very helpful with understanding the components-- which I was previously clueless about.

IF the groupsets on those three cannondales are in fact top notch, and the overall fit is right (they were all 54 cm which felt comfortable), is ~$600 a good value? I'm hoping to keep this bike for a looong time and learn all the DIY routine maintenance, so I want it to last. I can't tell the year of these, so it's tough to figure out the accuracy of blue book values. I'm sure the CAAD9 listed by a private seller that I posted above is an awesome deal too, but like Dave said, going down to a size 52 probably would be too small!

Again, thanks for all your advice, I hope to pull the trigger on one of these this weekend and want to make sure I make the absolute best decision for the best value!

[nereo]

I only use the bluebook values as an extremely rough starting point for a couple of reasons.  First, there are so many bike models/years/configurations out there that it's just a guide at best - people tend to anchor their perception of what their possessions are worth (price anchoring).
Second - bikes will last a really, really long time if properly cared for, so I don't even care so much if I pay an extra $50-100 for a bike that really fits me.  Over the next two decades that's a puny amount of money.  I know that's heresy on these boards, but....

Ok - regarding components... each step "up" gives you better performance, lighter weight and (to a certain level) more durability.  That's because each groupset is made with better materials than the one below it.  BUT - once you go above ~Shimano 105 durability flatlines (or even declines slightly)... those upper-end group sets are all about small savings in weight and slightly improved functionality.

For Shimano it goes: Sora < Claris < Tiagra < 105 < Ultegra < Dura-ace.
Sora is pretty much crap that goes on big-box store bikes for people who won't use them extensively and don't know better.  Skip that.
Ultegra & Dura-ace are for serious racers with price tags to match. To be fair I've never had the pleasure of riding Dura-ace (out of my pay grade).
My advice is to stick to Tiagra/105.  A great blend of durability (105 might actually be the MOST durable), performance and price.  You won't look out of place lining up at the local bike race, fun-ride or long-distance charity ride on a bike with 105. Even hardcore competitive cyclists often have a daily training bike with 105 to grind out miles, saving their expensive race bike(s) with Dura-ace for race day.

Finally, more of a personal decision but your gearing can have two chain-rings or three chain-rings (the large rings near the pedals).  If you climb steep hills you'll want the 3 rings (the littlest is often called the 'granny gear' and it allows you to keep pedaling even while going very slowly up very steep slopes). I've got a 2x9 on my road bike, but when I bought it I was living in an area with very few hills.
The cassette (sometimes called the cog-set) are the gears in back.  Depending on the year of your groupset they will be anywhere from 8 to 11. Much older group sets had 7 or even 5.  I've never worried much about size of my rear-cassette; IMO 8 is plenty for all but the most varied of terrain or the most serious of cyclists. Others will no doubt disagree.

[Dave1442397]

Cannondale had SRAM groupsets on some models - that's actually what came on my 2011 CAAD-10 4, and I must say that I prefer Shimano, now that I've used both.

Huh.  I was mistaken and learned something new... guess i'd only come across Cannondale's with Shimano, but I'm  far from a bike expert.

I've never had anything but Shimano - what about them do you like better than the SRAM equivalent?

I had just started cycling in 2011, when I bought the CAAD-10. They had a few different groupsets available, and I picked the SRAM Rival because I preferred the color scheme more than whatever color the Shimano model was at that price point.

I could never get the SRAM drivetrain to stay tuned properly. I would get everything trimmed, then within 150 miles it would be ghost shifting or rattling all the time. I had free lifetime service at the bike shop, so I'd take it in there and have then tune it, with the same issue - I'd get around 150 miles before things got wonky again. At one point it would just downshift three cogs at a time, usually when sprinting...not helpful.

I think I had around 8,000 miles on the bike when the right shifter broke off in my hand. Of course, I was riding hills in the Berkshires at the time :)  SRAM covered the cost to fix it, as apparently it was a common issue.

My current bike came with Ultegra Di2, and I love it. I keep the CAAD as my indoor roller bike now.

[Dave1442397]

Thanks for the responses guys. I didn't check out that craigslist Cannondale yet, BUT I did just stop by a local bike shop and test rode three used Cannondales in my size. I've attached pictures... the green one is listed for $700, blue for $600, and red for $500. Didn't look them up in the blue book yet, but any of those you guys would jump on? I really liked the blue one, and may try to offer $50 less than asking.

Let me know what you guys think!

I'd jump on any of those Cannondales :-)
As alluded to earlier, what really, really matters is the components ("group-set") that are on the bike.  For example, if the first one has Shimano 105 components, that's a pretty decent price IMO.  If it's just Sora or Claris... I'd pass.

Here's a link to the groupset heirarchy:
Note that some bikes have SRAM components with their own heirarchy - but I think Cannondales all use Shimano unless someone's been creative and swapped components out. SRAM is just another company - no better nor worse than Shimano.  You also occasionally see Campagnolo...

Thanks for the link, very helpful with understanding the components-- which I was previously clueless about.

IF the groupsets on those three cannondales are in fact top notch, and the overall fit is right (they were all 54 cm which felt comfortable), is ~$600 a good value? I'm hoping to keep this bike for a looong time and learn all the DIY routine maintenance, so I want it to last. I can't tell the year of these, so it's tough to figure out the accuracy of blue book values. I'm sure the CAAD9 listed by a private seller that I posted above is an awesome deal too, but like Dave said, going down to a size 52 probably would be too small!

Again, thanks for all your advice, I hope to pull the trigger on one of these this weekend and want to make sure I make the absolute best decision for the best value!

I think $600 would be a bit high coming from a private seller, but coming from a bike shop I would assume (ask them) that it's had a tuneup and maybe a new chain, at least. That's not bad if it's a good fit and you like it. You're going to spend some money over the years on components anyway.

When you do need to buy stuff, be aware that Shimano products are usually a lot cheaper from the UK than here in the US. I believe Shimano is working on that, due to complaints by US bike stores, but it's always worth searching. When the GBP plummeted after the Brexit announcement, I bought six Ultegra chains for $70 shipped, which was a good deal.

[The 585]

Thanks for all the follow up feeback Dave and nereo. Just called the shop, the blue cannondale I like (listed $600) has a mix of Tiagra and 105 components, while the red cannondale (Listed $500) has Shimano RSX components which he said are equivalent to Sora.

I think I should message the private seller as well to find out what components are used, and give it a test run.

[nereo]

One more thought:  Besides the components, the quickest 'upgrade' is to improve the wheels.  Hard to tell from that pic but that blue Cannondale looks like it has some decent wheels.

$600 isn't a bad price from a bike shop for a mixed Tiagra/Shimano 105 if it's had a tune-up.  Instead of bartering on price I"d ask them to throw in some free servicing... At the very least ask for a tune-up after 90 days and another one in a year. 

[Dave1442397]

Thanks for all the follow up feeback Dave and nereo. Just called the shop, the blue cannondale I like (listed $600) has a mix of Tiagra and 105 components, while the red cannondale (Listed $500) has Shimano RSX components which he said are equivalent to Sora.

I think I should message the private seller as well to find out what components are used, and give it a test run.

I'd go for the blue one, in that case. A Tiagra/105 mix could be ok - maybe ask them what the shifters are. The chain, cassette and chainrings can all be changed to 105 when you replace them. See what the derailleur is too - 105 would be the better option there.

You can get a lot of 105 parts cheap enough on the used market, so if you really felt the need to upgrade, it's not that expensive to do.

Don't bother with the private seller if that's the 52cm bike - having the right size and fit is more important than groupset.