I think I read commentary on this review that included a response from the chef.
The chef responded that he is bored with making food that people will like and is now making food that challenges his own understanding of what food is, what good is, etc. He compared himself to a surrealist painter. He also said they sell the plaster mold of his mouth, and they make one of his business partner, and both are sold out since the review as published.
The food critic who wrote the article thought that was fair, but said there was a hospitality element missing from her experience.