Author Topic: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?  (Read 8092 times)

CheapScholar

  • Pencil Stache
  • ****
  • Posts: 564
  • Location: The Midwest
Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« on: February 14, 2017, 05:59:12 PM »
Hi all, I'm planning a trip to Yellowstone this July and was wondering if anyone has been recently and has tips.  Basic info:

Leaving from Chicago (in-laws will drop off at airport, no parking expense)
I already have 3 nights reserved at the Old Faithful Inn in early July
I plan on flying to SLC and renting a car to get to Yellowstone (I have a ton of SW points and the flights will be free)
I'm open to paying for flights to Jackson Hole instead of SLC if you could convince me
DW and I are mid 30s, son is 8
I'd like to add on 2 or 3 additional nights (probably one in SLC the night before flying home)
Right now I'm considering getting an additional night at a Yellowstone hotel or getting a hotel in Jackson on Hotwire
I have been to many parks already and hiked part of AT solo, I also do back country camping by myself in MI.  But, this is more of a family trip, not one of my crazy adventures.
Camping is NOT an option, DW is not a happy camper  : )
I'd especially be interested in ideas to keep food costs down, anyone dined at restaurants in the park?

Thanks

Northwoods

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 21
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #1 on: February 14, 2017, 06:24:09 PM »
I would recommend that additional night down in Jackson. You could spend the day at Grand Teton on the way down. It is a fantastic park as well.

shunkman

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 51
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #2 on: February 14, 2017, 06:29:20 PM »
While at Yellowstone, there is a cafeteria at the Canyon Village with decent food and reasonable prices. Eat some meals (lunches) outside of the park. Try Gardiner which has a laundromat too.

Do not underestimate the Bison. And while you are there splurge once for a juicy rare Bison steak.

One more thing. Expect heavy traffic in July. When the Bison herds are crossing the roads you will be waiting for awhile.
« Last Edit: February 14, 2017, 06:32:25 PM by shunkman »

kina

  • Pencil Stache
  • ****
  • Posts: 877
  • Location: Greater Philadelphia
  • sea urchin currency
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #3 on: February 14, 2017, 06:56:55 PM »
We spent a week at Yellowstone. Until you are there, it's hard to grasp how big it is.

In most places, the speed limit is 45 mph and while we were there, not a day passed that we didn't see someone pulled over and getting a ticket. Our non-hybrid car got a whopping 55 mpg.

It's an amazing place. I hope you love it!

KirstyB

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 21
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #4 on: February 14, 2017, 08:24:19 PM »
For food tips, try and pack a soft cool bag so that you can carry food to make lunch. Take advantage of the larger population centers that you go through on your way up from slc to stop at a grocery store and get food to use for packed lunches (and breakfast). Food in either west Yellowstone or inside the park is expensive. We flew into slc when we visited - the back roads of western Wyoming from Jackson back to slc are quite beautiful, and grand Teton is definitely worth a day.

MustachianKentuckian

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 62
  • Age: 48
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #5 on: February 15, 2017, 09:56:33 AM »
Your son is 8, and so I'm thinking that is 3rd grader?  If by chance he is in fourth grade, there is a national program where fourth graders and their families get free admission into national parks.

https://www.everykidinapark.gov/get-your-pass/

therethere

  • Handlebar Stache
  • *****
  • Posts: 1026
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #6 on: February 15, 2017, 10:10:33 AM »
Spend less time in Yellowstone and more time in Grand Tetons. Less crowded, more scenic, less driving. No tourist buses!

Seriously, I'm glad we went to Yellowstone. But I was a little disappointed at how little hiking opportunities there were and the scenery. I mean, there's only so many thermal pools you can see before they all look the same. Okay they really aren't as uninspiring as I'm making it sound but they lose their appeal when you want to kill the people who need to take a photo in front of every single one.

Get up early to go to the main stops and animal watch, think 6AM. Have lunch and take a nap during the height of the day anywhere (bringing a hammock was an awesome idea). Then hit the main stops later on while everyone is heading back to camp/hotel. Best way to avoid some crows. Take or buy a cheap cooler and have it in the car for sandwiches and snacks to keep food costs down. Plus its way easier to just pull off the side of the road wherever you are and wind down for lunch.

CheapScholar

  • Pencil Stache
  • ****
  • Posts: 564
  • Location: The Midwest
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #7 on: February 15, 2017, 11:04:28 AM »
Thanks for the advice on getting up early, therethere.  My family lives in the eastern time zone so this should come naturally to us when in WY.  I usually camp and hike solo and try to avoid crowds as best I can.  I realize Yellowstone will be very crowded in July, but hopefully it is a good experience for my son.

Kapiira

  • Stubble
  • **
  • Posts: 154
  • Location: Albuquerque, NM
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #8 on: February 15, 2017, 11:11:09 AM »
We brought instant oatmeal/grits/ramen prepared by electric tea kettle or hot plate for breakfast.  Brought sandwich supplies for lunch.  Also ate one or two freeze-dried meals for dinner.

I also want to point out that I had a pretty different experience than therethere.  The major attractions were mobbed, but I was surprised at how many places were practically empty.  We did a 5 mile round-trip hike to Yellowstone Lake that was beautiful and we saw almost no one.  We had a nice picnic lunch along the Yellowstone River.  The picnic area had very few people and was only a half mile from some very popular thermal features.

I recommend checking out the Young Scientist kit from the visitor center.  We had fun using the temperature gauge and measuring temperatures at different thermal features.

EarlThePearl

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 27
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #9 on: February 15, 2017, 12:17:17 PM »
If you go through Salt Lake-- and drive through Idaho-- a few hours tubing in Lava Hot Springs isn't a bad idea.
https://www.tpdtuberental.com/

Also don't miss swimming in Firehole Canyon-- http://www.yellowstonepark.com/firehole-falls-canyon-drive/

And check out swimming in the Boiling River

SomedayStache

  • Pencil Stache
  • ****
  • Posts: 926
  • Live Long and Prosper
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #10 on: February 15, 2017, 12:36:34 PM »
Following!

Khaetra

  • Pencil Stache
  • ****
  • Posts: 719
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #11 on: February 15, 2017, 03:49:43 PM »
Following as well, since this is the next place to visit on my list.

FIFoFum

  • Handlebar Stache
  • *****
  • Posts: 1938
    • Captain's Log - Mission to Puppy Waystation on Puppy Island
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #12 on: February 15, 2017, 04:21:55 PM »
I've been to Yellowstone multiple times in the past few years, including in July.

Seconding that it's easy to get what you need at supermarket or equivalent (e.g., Walmart) & bring what you need in small cooler. I have brought food with me and occasionally bought something in a cafeteria or shop to splurge. I've never eaten at a restaurant in the park, and my understanding is that you are paying for the location, not the food or service quality.

There actually are some great restaurants outside the park, so if you want to budget for a nice night out, it's probably a better choice to plan that in the appropriate gateway city/region. Also, there are some guest houses or b&b style places in gateway cities that are the same price or cheaper than staying in lodging in the park. For some people, that's a good way to include a large and filling breakfast that will hold them for a good chunk of the day, needing only a few snacks, not a real lunch.

It's easy to underestimate both the cost issue in driving/fuel & the time you will spend driving getting around. The roads in Yellowstone form essentially a large "8" with most of the attractions spread out therein & then you have your access roads (to s, w, n, ne, e). It's helpful to stay nearest the park entrance for the attractions and activities you plan to do. How much driving you plan inside the park will also will influence how eager you are to drive from SLC vs. Jackson. If your family is going to get tired of sitting in the car, do you have enough days to add 10 hours for that RT.

I found the park website was really helpful for planning. There has been a lot of road construction in the park that has made getting around even worse & limited parking near some attractions. Not sure what projects are slated for this summer.

They also post the park's visitor guides, which I think are published seasonally. Even looking at old ones can give a sense of where you might want to spend your time and the types of guided talks/nature walks/junior ranger activities that might be fun for kids. Then closer to your trip, look up the summer guide before you get there so you can plan accordingly. Then just leave lots of extra buffer for enjoying scenery, wildlife and an occasional hike along the way.

FernFree

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 75
  • Age: 55
  • Location: Austin, TX
  • On my way!
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #13 on: February 15, 2017, 04:45:16 PM »
I grew up about an hour from Yellowstone and I would just like to say 3 things and apologies if you already know this - I hear horror stories every year about tourist hijinks :) :

1.  It is not a zoo or a petting zoo.  Those are wild animals and they can kill you.  Stay in your car or the prescribed distance from any animals you encounter.
2.  If you're going to be doing any hiking or camping, do you research on grizzlies and rattlesnakes -- probably the 2 most dangerous things there.
3.  Some of the hot springs are well above boiling and will kill you if you jump in.  Be careful about where you swim and read the signs.

Yellowstone is not like other tourist destinations where everything is pretend and your safety and comfort are all taken care of.  You need to be aware and know what you're doing to avoid mishaps.

You can see some of the latest horror stories, and some beautiful photos, on their Facebook feed.

CheapScholar

  • Pencil Stache
  • ****
  • Posts: 564
  • Location: The Midwest
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #14 on: February 15, 2017, 05:05:46 PM »
Thanks, Fern.  I'm not scared of rattlesnakes.  I've been hiking other places out west and I've learned you pretty much need to ask for a rattlesnake to strike you.  One site I came across said there have only been 2 recorded rattlesnake bites in Yellowstone history.

Your point about bears is well taken.  I did read about the bear spray rental vendor in Yellowstone and I will probably do that for the week I am there.  For others following, the rentals require a $50 deposit and you can rent by the day, 3 days or week.  The 3 day option is $30 I believe, on top of the deposit.  I'll probably only get one serious hike in during this trip, and that will be solo as my wife and son hang at the lodge or watch some geysers.  I'd hate to be lunch for a grizzly and miss out on my early retirement!

Jaketucson

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 23
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #15 on: February 15, 2017, 09:41:59 PM »
If you go through Salt Lake-- and drive through Idaho-- a few hours tubing in Lava Hot Springs isn't a bad idea.
https://www.tpdtuberental.com/

Also don't miss swimming in Firehole Canyon-- http://www.yellowstonepark.com/firehole-falls-canyon-drive/

And check out swimming in the Boiling River

+1 for Boiling River--last I was there (2004) it's a signed turn off the road between Gardiner, MT (North Entrance) and Mammoth hotsprings.  Geothermally heated water mixes with the cold Yellowstone River in a small area that you can soak in.

Also, if you have time, take the Northeast Entrance (or exit) out into the Beartooth Mountains.  Amazingly scenic drive, and if you go down the other side, Red Lodge, MT is a cool town.

EarlThePearl

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 27
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #16 on: February 16, 2017, 04:48:01 AM »
In Salt Lake, the Mormon Temple is interesting too. They won't let you go in, but checking out the grounds is something to see.  Also swimming in Salt Lake is an experience (much much saltier than the ocean).


andy85

  • Handlebar Stache
  • *****
  • Posts: 1060
  • Age: 38
  • Location: Louisville, KY
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #17 on: February 16, 2017, 05:50:27 AM »
i quite enjoyed the drive from SLC into yellowstone, so i would recommend it, although we went in the off-season, so traffic was minimal.

pro tip: if you want the best view of the grand prismatic, dont actually go to the boardwalk that overlooks it. it is hard to take in all of the color when the spring is at eye level. instead: there is a trail on the opposite side of the spring (directly opposite of the grand prismatic parking lot). when you are on that trail, you will notice a pretty steep hill that has fairly clear trails going up it...they arent marked though. but i encourage you to go up that hill...it overlooks the spring and you get a great aerial view of it from there. be aware, it is a very steep hill. (i think the main trail was to fairy falls...but not positive)

we did a 5 mile hike that overlooked yellowstone falls/canyon. i think we parked at uncle tom's point, took the trail across the street...you pass 2 lakes (ponds) and go through the woods and come out at artist point. from artist point parking lot, you can take the road back to uncle toms point or continue on the south rim trail and come out at uncle toms point....the last half mile or so of this is super steep and exhausting, but the view of the canyon was worth it.

BurtMacklin

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 50
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #18 on: February 16, 2017, 06:08:20 AM »
We saw a grizzly when I was there. It was in a valley near a road with lots of cars and people watching it. We kept a distance because we aren't stupid. It disappeared for awhile and it was obviously coming up the hill, I have picture of it when it did and it's crazy how close people were to the bear. We saw lots of wildlife there, but we weren't expecting to see a grizzly.

spokey doke

  • Pencil Stache
  • ****
  • Posts: 514
  • Escaped from the ivory tower basement
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #19 on: February 16, 2017, 08:41:18 AM »
A few more tidbits and reiterations from a quasi-local.

- you are in for a lot of driving, including in the park at slow speeds, account for that
- early hours are best, but after dinner is pretty quiet too and good for watching wildlife as well
- be sure to do one or more very early outings to the Lamar Valley and look for parked cars, esp. near the Slough Creek crossing/campground...likely to be folks watching the Slough Creek wolf pack, and if so, there will be plenty of high powered spotting scopes that nice folks will let you look through
- Spend time in Grand Teton (and definitely stop at Jackson Lake Lodge for a meal or snack and gawk at the view from the back patio and the main lobby).
- I personally find the town of Jackson to be an unpleasant tourist trap (esp. in July).  There is definitely good food to be found there, but that is the only reason to go...there isn't a view of the Tetons either...so I generally prefer to head over and stay on the west side, in the Driggs/Victor area.  Much quieter and cheaper, but still a few good places to eat (rent a place to stay through Airbnb), and a whole other great view of the Tetons up Teton Canyon (Alaska Basin is a great hike, at any length, and should be chocked full of wild flowers then). If you do want to stay on the E. side, there is lots of lodging at the Jackson Hole Resort (and some good food at The Spur), and you can take the tram up to the top.
- If you find yourself with extra time in SLC, and haven't had enough driving yet, head up Little Cottonwood Canyon, and do the short hike up Albion Basin if it is clear of snow, or just look at the great scenery).

BeanCounter

  • Handlebar Stache
  • *****
  • Posts: 1755
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #20 on: February 16, 2017, 08:46:02 AM »
following! I have a goal to take my kids to all the National Parks.

lentil

  • Stubble
  • **
  • Posts: 133
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #21 on: February 16, 2017, 08:50:14 AM »
As far as saving money in Yellowstone, I agree with others about doing your shopping outside of the park (before you get there -- driving all the way our from Old Faithful to any gateway town is not worth it, once you're in the park). Everything from gas to groceries to beer is marked up considerably inside the park, so brace yourself for sticker shock. Even for a National Park, Yellowstone is pricey (by my, admittedly tightwad standards)...but you're only there for a week, and ought to spend your time enjoying yourself, not worrying too much about mark-ups!

If you're planning to finish your trip with a night or two in Jackson, you could plan for a "splurge" night out there, to balance out eating out of a cooler for the rest of the week. Jackson has a surprising variety of restaurants. We usually camp during trips to Yellowstone, but we've sometimes planned for a last night in a hotel at Jackson just for the joys of showering and eating something other than camp noodles (though I agree with others that there are nicer, less touristy towns too). For food, since we're camping, we cook hot coffee in the morning, hot meals at night, and eat peanut butter sandwiches, apples, and so forth all day long.

Last summer, I took my 8 year old nephew up to RMNP and a couple of other Colorado parks. He loved the junior ranger program. Pretty much all ranger-led activities are free, and they're usually geared toward audiences of all ages (i.e. not too boring for adults!). It's a great way to make a huge park fun for kids, and can give you some good ideas for day trip destinations too. Lamar Valley is a serious drive from Old Faithful, especially considering July traffic...for wildlife viewing from OF, I recommend heading up to Hayden Valley and planning a long day with a picnic lunch & dinner. Bring binoculars, so you can use them to figure out if that far-off dot is a bison, bear, or bush. There are some nice picnic areas on the banks of the river, where you can fix your sandwiches and keep an eye out for otters and whatnot.

If you want a family-friendly hike near your lodge, Lone Star Geyser is a straightforward, out-and-back hike to a backcountry geyser (it goes off about every 2-3 hours, as I recall, so you might pack a lunch to eat while you wait). It's about 2 and a half miles to the geyser, but really flat & easy walking, and it's more fun to watch a geyser blow without the massive tour bus crowds! There are tons of hikes in the park, but only a few get much traffic, so it's definitely the way to enjoy a little solitude, or at least a break from the bumper-to-bumper bison jams. Renting a canoe on Yellowstone Lake, or down in Grand Teton, is also a nice way to get out into the wilderness as a family.


EarlThePearl

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 27
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #22 on: February 16, 2017, 09:22:50 AM »
Quote
. He loved the junior ranger program. Pretty much all ranger-led activities are free, and they're usually geared toward audiences of all ages (i.e. not too boring for adults!).

Junior Ranger program is great for kids- i second that programs can be interesting for adults too. Get the free park newspaper that lists all the Ranger talks. They're very informative and really can enhance your visit.

kms

  • Bristles
  • ***
  • Posts: 327
  • Location: Austin, TX
  • Minion Money Hippie
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #23 on: February 16, 2017, 03:32:28 PM »
I know it's probably too late now (and you might not like this advice) but if you want to go to Yellowstone I'd advise you not to, and spend your time in Grand Teton and Glacier NP instead. My wife and I travelled around North America for three months in 2016, from early July to early October, and have visited countless national parks between Texas and Alaska. And while Glacier was by far one of our favorite parks - only bested by Denali - Yellowstone would be waaaaay down on that list. No offense but in my personal opinion Yellowstone is the Disneyland of national parks. It's overcrowded, overrated, and overpriced.

We came in from Cody (east entrance) which is a stunningly scenic drive yet it was so crowded that traffic was pretty much back-to-back all the way from Cody to Fishing Bridge, and instead of two hours it took us more than five. Old Faithful was interesting yet once again overcrowded - my best estimate is that there were roughly 2,000 people waiting for it to erupt. Cody is a few hours ride from the park and pretty interesting, too. Being the hometown of Buffalo Bill they still celebrate that until today. They have a daily rodeo in the summer which was very nice to watch, and they had entertainment for kids as well (read: chase the calf around the arena, pretty funny). Unfortunately there's nothing else that way so it's kind of a dead end for you.

CheapScholar

  • Pencil Stache
  • ****
  • Posts: 564
  • Location: The Midwest
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #24 on: February 16, 2017, 04:26:01 PM »
I'm aware it's the Disney of Nat'l Parks, and I have a pretty good idea what I'm getting into.  I've already hit many of the parks and I want to do Yellowstone when my son is younger because I know the geysers are a main attraction and I don't expect him to do much hiking at 8.  Plus, I'm a fan of park lodges and I've always wanted to stay at Old Faithful Inn.

I'm going to Zion by myself in May and camping - I'll do some good hiking on that trip and get some solitude. 

MrsPete

  • Magnum Stache
  • ******
  • Posts: 3505
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #25 on: February 16, 2017, 05:44:46 PM »
It's easy to visit Yellowstone and "camp" in a cabin.  Their offerings vary from simple duplexes with beds and bathrooms only to fancy hotel rooms; the prices vary widely also.  If you're talking about going this summer, you need to reserve a cabin yesterday -- seriously, they go fast.

When you buy your admission ticket to Yellowstone, it'll be good for a week.  It'll also give you admission to next-door Grand Tetons National Park. 

Grand Teton is probably the most beautiful park I've seen, but Yellowstone has more variety. 

Yellowstone is more crowded, especially in the summer.  Be prepared to drive defensively.  People who otherwise have common sense (or maybe don't ... I don't know their lives) see an animal by the road side and just STOP.  Yes, right in the middle of the road!  On a related note, yes, the park is HUGE, and they do have gas stations inside, but you don't want to pay their prices. 

Do read ahead of time about the range programs.  They're wonderfully informative and most of them are free.  I don't remember if you said you have kids, but kids can earn patches by doing ranger programs.  My kids used to be VERY into that. 

Don't forget the town of West Yellowstone.  We LOVED the Wolf and Grizzly Discovery Center. 


Slow&Steady

  • Pencil Stache
  • ****
  • Posts: 698
  • Location: Midwest
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #26 on: February 17, 2017, 08:05:01 AM »
...
- be sure to do one or more very early outings to the Lamar Valley and look for parked cars, esp. near the Slough Creek crossing/campground...likely to be folks watching the Slough Creek wolf pack, and if so, there will be plenty of high powered spotting scopes that nice folks will let you look through
- Spend time in Grand Tetons (and definitely stop at Jackson Lake Lodge for a meal or snack and gawk at the view from the back patio and the main lobby).
...

+1 on these points, especially Lamar Valley.  So many people focus on Old Faithful and Mammoth when they go to Yellowstone, don't forget the smaller locations and the more out of the way areas (Lamar Valley, Roosevelt/Tower Falls, Grant Village), you will find a slightly smaller crowd in these areas.

... I don't expect him to do much hiking at 8. 

He can do lots of hiking, bring plenty of snacks/water and take your time.  I take my 2 year old hiking as often as I can, her longest hike so far was 5.5 miles.  That hike took all day and we stopped for lunch and I had to carry her for some of it but at 8 I would completely expect her to be capable to do some pretty awesome hiking.  Now if he/your SO are not into hiking that is a different story but there will still be plenty of things to see.  There are also several short 0.5 mile hikes all over Yellowstone that often result in beautiful scenery. Pick up a Yellowstone (and Grand Tetons) hiking book, maybe from your library.  I completely disagree with the PP that implied there is only boardwalk trails and geysers to see, refer to my other comment, don't forget to travel outside of the larger/more populated areas!

JustGettingStarted1980

  • Bristles
  • ***
  • Posts: 377
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #27 on: February 17, 2017, 08:46:56 AM »
Definitely make it to the Hot Springs Northwest of Mammoth. Very nice to lay there in a natural hot tub with Big Sky country all around! Good memory.

JGS

CheapScholar

  • Pencil Stache
  • ****
  • Posts: 564
  • Location: The Midwest
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #28 on: February 17, 2017, 12:51:06 PM »
Thanks, Nicole!  I should have been more specific in that my wife probably won't hike more than 5 miles in a day.  My son has the physical abilty to hike all day (he runs 5Ks) but my wife would be WAY too nervous if I took him for an extended hike without her or went remotely back country in Yellowstone.  She's a helicopter parent and very protective.  I'll rent a bear spray canister and see how much she can handle.

paddedhat

  • Handlebar Stache
  • *****
  • Posts: 2228
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #29 on: February 18, 2017, 05:19:17 AM »
We have been there at least five times in the past two decades. We typically end up in Cody for a few days, prior to doing the park, then stay in a fantastic RV park ( Grizzly RV) in West Yellowstone, for our park tour. This year we spent the July 4th, weekend there.  IIRC, park attendance for the summer was a record, 15% higher that the old mark, for the summer of 2016.

Crowds are entirely manageable if you understand typical visitors. Mid-summer tilts toward a mix of families with young kids, and foreign visitors, mostly from Asian parts of the globe.  When it comes to both demographics, it's seems that while in vacation mode, neither are early risers, and both want to be sitting at diner, and off the tourist loop, by 6PM.

This year we knew better, but got lazy, and stumbled into the west gate at 11AM, on the holiday weekend, It was a total cluster-F. The first thermal pool we came to had thousands of people, shoulder to shoulder, on the 8' wide, elevated boardwalks surrounding the pools. The parking lot was full, and there was a continuous loop of cars in the lot, playing musical chairs. Hoping to dive into an emptying spot. A 1/4 mile of the shoulder had cars illegally parked, sometimes on top of smashed poles with metal "NO PARKING" signs.  We turned around and got out of the park, ASAP.   

The next morning we headed back into the park at 5AM, and it was magical, the best few hours we ever spent in Yellowstone. We went for the first half hour without seeing another vehicle. The same thermal pools were totally empty, and we walked them in a stunning, and dead quiet morning mist, as the sun rose through the fog. The next five hours were blissfully quiet, and i took until 11AM or so, until it was clear that a retreat to the RV was a good idea, since the crowds were building.  The other option, if it works for your schedule, is to hit the summer shoulder seasons. We have spent a huge amount of time in the mountain west, and one thing is apparent, no matter if it's the Black Hills, Moab, or Yellowstone, summers are family time, and for most families, that means the eight weeks from mid-June to mid-August. We have been at destinations where things are horribly crowded the second week of August, and pretty lonely the third. If you can push to the very edges of the seasons in late spring and early fall, it gets even better. If you do that however, be aware that weather, and closed businesses can both impact your plans.  We have been in the park while getting pounded by snow, in July, and have seen tourist towns that roll up their sidewalks on October 1st.

Good luck, and have a great trip.

MrsPete

  • Magnum Stache
  • ******
  • Posts: 3505
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #30 on: February 18, 2017, 06:16:11 PM »
Junior Ranger program is great for kids- i second that programs can be interesting for adults too. Get the free park newspaper that lists all the Ranger talks. They're very informative and really can enhance your visit.
You can see them ahead of time online! 
Some of them cost money (probably worthwhile), while others are free.

Monkey Uncle

  • Handlebar Stache
  • *****
  • Posts: 1742
  • Location: West-by-god-Virginia
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #31 on: February 18, 2017, 06:19:47 PM »
We have been there at least five times in the past two decades. We typically end up in Cody for a few days, prior to doing the park, then stay in a fantastic RV park ( Grizzly RV) in West Yellowstone, for our park tour. This year we spent the July 4th, weekend there.  IIRC, park attendance for the summer was a record, 15% higher that the old mark, for the summer of 2016.

Crowds are entirely manageable if you understand typical visitors. Mid-summer tilts toward a mix of families with young kids, and foreign visitors, mostly from Asian parts of the globe.  When it comes to both demographics, it's seems that while in vacation mode, neither are early risers, and both want to be sitting at diner, and off the tourist loop, by 6PM.

This year we knew better, but got lazy, and stumbled into the west gate at 11AM, on the holiday weekend, It was a total cluster-F. The first thermal pool we came to had thousands of people, shoulder to shoulder, on the 8' wide, elevated boardwalks surrounding the pools. The parking lot was full, and there was a continuous loop of cars in the lot, playing musical chairs. Hoping to dive into an emptying spot. A 1/4 mile of the shoulder had cars illegally parked, sometimes on top of smashed poles with metal "NO PARKING" signs.  We turned around and got out of the park, ASAP.   

The next morning we headed back into the park at 5AM, and it was magical, the best few hours we ever spent in Yellowstone. We went for the first half hour without seeing another vehicle. The same thermal pools were totally empty, and we walked them in a stunning, and dead quiet morning mist, as the sun rose through the fog. The next five hours were blissfully quiet, and i took until 11AM or so, until it was clear that a retreat to the RV was a good idea, since the crowds were building.  The other option, if it works for your schedule, is to hit the summer shoulder seasons. We have spent a huge amount of time in the mountain west, and one thing is apparent, no matter if it's the Black Hills, Moab, or Yellowstone, summers are family time, and for most families, that means the eight weeks from mid-June to mid-August. We have been at destinations where things are horribly crowded the second week of August, and pretty lonely the third. If you can push to the very edges of the seasons in late spring and early fall, it gets even better. If you do that however, be aware that weather, and closed businesses can both impact your plans.  We have been in the park while getting pounded by snow, in July, and have seen tourist towns that roll up their sidewalks on October 1st.

Good luck, and have a great trip.

The fam and I are planning a trip for the 2nd week of September, 2018.  Hoping for Indian summer and thin crowds. ;)

MrsPete

  • Magnum Stache
  • ******
  • Posts: 3505
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #32 on: February 18, 2017, 06:24:50 PM »
I grew up about an hour from Yellowstone and I would just like to say 3 things and apologies if you already know this - I hear horror stories every year about tourist hijinks :) :

1.  It is not a zoo or a petting zoo.  Those are wild animals and they can kill you.  Stay in your car or the prescribed distance from any animals you encounter.
2.  If you're going to be doing any hiking or camping, do you research on grizzlies and rattlesnakes -- probably the 2 most dangerous things there.
3.  Some of the hot springs are well above boiling and will kill you if you jump in.  Be careful about where you swim and read the signs.

Yellowstone is not like other tourist destinations where everything is pretend and your safety and comfort are all taken care of.  You need to be aware and know what you're doing to avoid mishaps.

You can see some of the latest horror stories, and some beautiful photos, on their Facebook feed.
Off-topic, but if you get a chance visit Custer State Park in South Dakota (South Dakota?) and splurge on the Guided Buffalo Safari.  We took the first tour of the day, and our family of four was alone with our guide Jeff, a senior citizen who lives in Texas in winter and does these tours during the summer -- wonderful old gent who took great care of us.  He drove us around through parts of the park not open to the public and explained how the park takes care of the buffalo -- I so want to go back in September to see the cowboys round up the buffalo to the "September pasture".  He taught us SO MUCH about the buffalo and the history of the park /area in general -- stories of pioneers and outlaws -- and Jeff gave us a strong sense of respect for what buffalo can do. 

At one point we came upon two vans of church youth group kids who were out in a field WALKING AMONG THE BUFFALO TAKING PICTURES.  Jeff asked us to stay in the open-air jeep, and he got out, identified himself as a park employee, and chewed out the youth group leaders.  They chose to ignore his excellent advice.  He was angry and said that some people just can't listen and that someone is killed in the park every year by buffalo.  Always because the humans are doing something stupid, usually an attempt to get a photograph. 

gliderpilot567

  • Stubble
  • **
  • Posts: 178
  • Location: US
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #33 on: February 19, 2017, 08:37:23 AM »
I was thinking about going this year around Aug 21, which is when the total solar eclipse will be happening and the path of totality crosses over Jackson Hole and parts of the Teton range. But on the other hand, that may make the crowds even more intolerable than usual...

fidgiegirl

  • Handlebar Stache
  • *****
  • Posts: 1082
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #34 on: February 19, 2017, 08:48:30 AM »
following!

NinetyFour

  • CMTO 2023 Attendees
  • Walrus Stache
  • *
  • Posts: 6881
  • Age: 62
  • Location: Southwestern US
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #35 on: February 19, 2017, 10:15:51 AM »
Following...

OthalaFehu

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 72
    • OthalaFehu
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #36 on: February 19, 2017, 10:17:27 AM »
You are about to go on an American Safari, this is the best road trip I have ever taken. You should really find a way to hit The Black Hills and The Badlands even though they are outside of Yellowstone, well worth getting a drive and driving around. Devil's Tower is awesome also.

radtek2112

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 56
  • Age: 46
  • Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #37 on: February 19, 2017, 11:18:10 AM »
Your son is 8, and so I'm thinking that is 3rd grader?  If by chance he is in fourth grade, there is a national program where fourth graders and their families get free admission into national parks.

https://www.everykidinapark.gov/get-your-pass/

Thanks! You just saved me $30 on our upcoming trip to the Grand Canyon with the kiddos.  Maybe we'll use this again when our now 1st grader goes into the fourth grade!

aperture

  • Bristles
  • ***
  • Posts: 475
  • Location: Colorado
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #38 on: February 19, 2017, 11:58:52 AM »
Didn't read the entire thread, just skipped to my two pearls of advice:
(1) Attend as many ranger-led activities as possible.  These are among the best opportunities at Yellowstone (or any US Nat'l Park).  I am not sure whether Yellowstone allows reservations for ranger hikes (for example Arches does reservations for Fiery Furnace), but if they do, you will want to book it on opening day for reservations ~6 months ahead of time (just like the camping spots).
(2) The Buffalo Bill Museum Center of the West in Cody is an awesome museum on par with any you will find in large cities on the east coast.  The collection is magnificent and the curation is superb.  It is a pricy museum, but if you are into the history of Westward expansion in the territories that became the US, you will not be disappointed.
Best wishes, Ap.

socalteacher

  • Stubble
  • **
  • Posts: 102
Re: Yellowstone Nat'l Park Tips?
« Reply #39 on: February 19, 2017, 01:22:25 PM »
1. Pack a dinner and catch a sunset anywhere in the park that has a beautiful view and where you aren't surrounded by tons of people. I took my wife several years ago and we would always find an awesome spot to park and cook up a small dinner and enjoy the sunset. It was one of our favorite parts of the day.

2. Don't underestimate the bear factor or bison. I have backpacked there and also done short hikes to popular geysers etc. Running into bears can be scary and you never know when it will happen. Read up on them and what to do if you come across one. Most likely you will only see them from a distance, especially if you are not camping!

3. Be prepared to relax when encountering idiots on the roads. People will stop in the middle of the road and park their car to look at a coyote off in the distance etc.. For some reason people think it is ok to block traffic to get a shot of a squirrel. 

Have fun, it is an amazing place! We have had incredible experiences there and can't wait until our kids are older so that we can share it with them too!