Agreed. $1,100 for 6 months of use... WAY less than a new car payment, new car deprecation, or worst... New car deprecation weighted by the new car payment.
In my opinion, cars can last a LONG time and the cost of depreciation/repairs can be allocated/budget for.
if
1 - you have a known highly reliable long life car (look to consumer reports and phil edmonstons lemonaide list)
2 - you drive conservatively
3 - use top tier fuel
4 - prevent, remove & treat rust
5 - follow preventative, not reactive maintenance (self and excellent trusted mechanic)
Upcoming:
250K Timing Belt, Water Pump, Thermostat, Serpentine Belts, Full Fluid Drain & Fill (Cooling, Brake, Clutch, Power Steering, etc), 'Buy This Car Inspection'
225K Oil & Filter
Confirmed History via my in-car notepad (note that I removed most older oil change intervals):
* 221K 2019.04 3M paint stripper pad on rear wheel wells for rust bubble, treated with eastwood white encapselator, Fluid Film (4 cans) & Chassis Saver underbody
220K 2019.02 Oil Change.
215K 2018.09 PGM-FI / Main Injection Relay
215K 2018.06 Oil Change. SRS light code indicates that Drivers side seat belt buckle switch is faulty.
213K 2018.06 Front Left Wheel Bearing. Both CV Axles.
210K 2018.03 FRONT Moog Stabilizer End Link, Moog Sway Bar Bushings, and KYB Shocks/Strut-Plus
210K 2018.03 Alignments, Oil Change, Oil pan Gasket
210K 2018.03 REAR Moog Stabilizer End Link, Moog Sway Bar Bushings, and KYB Shocks/Strut-Plus
207K 2017.09 HeadlightsDepot DS-HD412-B1WHA (H3 low beam, H1 high beam), Replace Amp
207K 2017.09 Oil & Filter
203K 2017.05 Spare Tire replacement (was no longer holding 60psi, never used)
202K 2017.04 Power Steering Flush, Oil & Filter
200K 2017.02 Front Brake Calipers, Pads (Akimbo Euro), Rotors (SP-Performance Diamond ZRC), Hoses (Russell), Fluid Film (4 cans) & underbody
198K 2016.12 Transmission: Flywheel, Clutch Disk, Pressure Plate, Throw Out Bearing, Master & Slave Cylinders, Flush with Synthetic. Front Lower Ball Joints. Trouble shifting. This is the only time I nearly needed a tow.
197K 2016.12 Front Wheel Bearings, Weld Catalytic Converter heat shield (nut cracked)
197K 2016.12 Rear Wheel Bearings, Brake Calipers, Pads (Akimbo Euro), Rotors (Hawk), Hoses (Russell)
197K 2016.11 Pirelli - Cinturato P7 A/S Plus 215/45R17
195K 2016.08 Oil & Filter, Brake Flush
o .....OEM Spark plug, wires, distributor cap, rotor, PCV valve.
o .....Re-soldier battery wires, ground wire kit, Head-Unit replaced, Fluid Film (6 cans) & underbody
o .....Rear Left Wheel well rust removal (Eastwood paints), Leather Seat repair, Cabin Air Filter
194K 2016.08 'buying car inspection'
191K 2016.03 Oil & Filter
191K 2016.03 Front Right Upper Control Arm & Front Right Upper Ball Joint
191K 2016.02 Honda Dealer Recall R54 (A/S Drivers Airbag Inflator)
191K 2016.01 Duralast Gold Battery
186K 2015.03 Rear Brakes OEM Rotors & Pads, Rear Left Caliper, Rear Left Bearing, Fluid Film (4 cans) & underbody
181K 2014.07 Timing Belt, Water Pump, Serpentine Belts, Cooling System Flush
180K 2014.05 Tires 215/45ZR-17 91W
178K 2014.03 Front Brake OEM Pads. 'buying car inspection', Fluid Film (4 cans) & underbody
135K 2010.02 Tires 215/45R-17XL 91H BSW & Wheels (17x7).
105K 2007.07 Timing Belt, Water Pump, Serpentine Belts, Cooling System Flush. 'buying car inspection'
'
These are the big ticket items.
I treat my wife's Mazda 3 the same and most of her peers comment on how new her car looks when they drive 10 year newer rusting SUVs.
I budget $50/month into an Ally account and this MORE than covers all repairs on both vehicles. Right now that account value is sitting at $2,355.72.
This means, in cash, I can put in a 1 year warrantied 50,000 mile engine into either vehicle with cash left over - and would do so without hesitation should either engine go rather than buy a different car. I KNOW my vehicles are VERY well maintained and the total cost of ownership is very low.