Used Trek 2014 7.2, yes or no?

[Guses]

I am looking at getting a second, faster bike to ride when the weather allows it.

My local CL has a 2014 trek 7.2 for about 300 $ (Canadian buckaroos!). Assuming the bike is in good condition, is that a good buy?

[bryan995]

I use to have a Trek 7.2Fx.  It might have even been a 2014 model.  Bought it brand new for ~$520 from a dealer.
I think I sold it used after 1.5 years (was moving cross country) for $350.

Was a great bike - no issues.

[nereo]

I am looking at getting a second, faster bike to ride when the weather allows it.

My local CL has a 2014 trek 7.2 for about 300 $ (Canadian buckaroos!). Assuming the bike is in good condition, is that a good buy?

It's a solid, 'general purpose' road bike, and $300CAD is a decent price provided it's in good condition.

[Guses]

Any other suggestions for this price point?

I see there is also a 1989(?) Myata for 140$. Said to be in excellent condition and fully tuned.

[Dave1442397]

Any other suggestions for this price point?

I see there is also a 1989(?) Myata for 140$. Said to be in excellent condition and fully tuned.

I'd go with the Trek. Some of these older bikes can be in good shape, but when things go wrong you may have trouble finding spare parts.

Here's a good video that tells you about replacing drive train parts - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8LqTmvuf6tw

[NESailor]

Any other suggestions for this price point?

I see there is also a 1989(?) Myata for 140$. Said to be in excellent condition and fully tuned.

I'd go with the Trek. Some of these older bikes can be in good shape, but when things go wrong you may have trouble finding spare parts.

Here's a good video that tells you about replacing drive train parts - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8LqTmvuf6tw

I don't find this to be true at all. Maybe if you find an obscure Italian or British road bike but not something generic and from the 80s.  And if you DO find an obscure Italian bike for $140 please let me know ;).

It depends on what you want.  Isn't the 7.2 a hybrid?  Is that what you want?  CL is FULL of old steel/alu road bikes for dirt cheap all the time.  Some of them are essentially bomb proof.  I got a 1966 Schwinn Continental all original for free.  Spent all of $20 on new tires, tore it down and lubed it up and have been using it as a commuter bike.  I could throw it in the lake for a season, take it out, clean it up and it'd be good to ride again.

So anyway - the Trek is a decent bike and $300 is a decent price.  But don't discount a bike from the 80s just because it's from the 80s.  Bike tech on the low end hasn't changed much and older cheap bikes may even be better than new cheap bikes.

Cheers!

[MsPeacock]

You can check the value here:

https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/


This is also a good bargaining tool if the bike is over priced.

[Debts_of_Despair]

I'd go for the newer Trek.  See if you can get it down to $250.

Regarding new vs. old, newer stuff is almost always going to be lighter, easier to use and more reliable when comparing similar spec levels.  I have older and newer bikes.  Older bikes = nicer to look at.  Newer bikes = better for actual riding.

[snogirl]

My old steel bikes take a pounding so I don't have to. Yet if you are wanting speed for racing or long trip touring yeah nothing beats a newer bike.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

[Guses]

Hmmm the plot thickens....

The best price I can do on the Trek 7.2 is 300$.

HOWEVER, I am also in contact with someone selling a 2001 Trek 1200 for about the same price.

The older trek is much higher "initial" quality than the 7.2. And it's a road bike, which is what I would prefer.

[Debts_of_Despair]

Assuming you are doing actual "road biking" I would be more interested in the 1200.  $300 is a still a little high IMO.

[nereo]

Assuming you are doing actual "road biking" I would be more interested in the 1200.  $300 is a still a little high IMO.

remember, this is $300CAD, which is about $220US.  And for some bizarre reason bikes are just more expensive in general up here... same brand, same model. 

going back to the question at hand - if you want a dedicated road bike and the 1200 is set up like that, buy that one.  I'm guessing the Trek 7.2 is set up as a hybrid with fatter tires?  Changing to skinny road tires isn't hard or expensive to do ($40 or so).

What are the components on the two bikes?  Does the Trek 7.2 have the disk brakes?  If it does I'd favor disk breaks over rim brakes anyday at the same price.... even if it meant swapping tires.

[Guses]

Unfortunately, none of the bikes have discs.

Am I wrong to think that a road bike can be driven in the snow (with appropriate tires)?

The 1200 has shimano tegra components whereas the hybrid has altus (i.e., lowest class).

[sw1tch]

I have a 2007 FX 7.2 that I commute with.  It's actually the only bike I have and it still has all original components and going strong.  Granted, I didn't really ride it much from when I initially bought it (~2007) until this year.  This year alone I've put about 700 miles on it - all years prior < 100.

From looking at the specs, the newer 7.2's seem pretty similar to what I have.

Given that, here are my observations:
- Not the fastest bike (fastest I've gotten is ~ 34 mph on a downhill)
- 700c x 35 tires, so lots of rolling resistance, also wider rims so you can't just swap to skinnies
- No disk brakes
- I'm still riding to work in lightly slick and extreme cold and haven't had any issues
- isn't that heavy but isn't light either (I've never ridden anything lighter so don't really know the difference)
- MSRP was ~ 500 USD
- marketed as a "fitness" bike, so it's not going to be the best at anything
- has pre-drilled holes for racks (front & rear), I installed a rear rack on mine; I can see them for the rear for the 2014 version

If you're wanting a "fast" bike, I'd go with the dedicated road bike.  The 7.2 is more of a city/commuter bike than anything but it does get the job done.

[GuitarStv]

Unfortunately, none of the bikes have discs.

Am I wrong to think that a road bike can be driven in the snow (with appropriate tires)?

The 1200 has shimano tiagra components whereas the hybrid has altus (i.e., lowest class).

You can ride a road bike in the snow (I do).  It takes a little time getting used to though.  Usually the geometry of a road bike will make it more twitchy/responsive, which is something that you really have to keep in mind when your back wheel slides out.  Road handlebars are often narrower than flat bars, which means again that it'll be a little more responsive with regards to the steering.

I switched to a road bike in the winter because the benefits of having the drops and being able to maintain an aerodynamic position are huge in the winter where winds over 50 kph are pretty common.  Just make sure that there's room on the frame for 32 mm tires and fenders . . . many road bikes won't accommodate these.


FWIW, Altus components aren't all that bad - especially for a winter bike.  I had an Altus rear derailleur get me through four winters before needing replacement, and they're pretty cheap when you do need a new one.

[Debts_of_Despair]

I think we need to take a few steps back.  What are you actually planning to do with this bike?

[Guses]

I think we need to take a few steps back.  What are you actually planning to do with this bike?

Commute 25 KM per day rain or shine. I will be keeping my hardtail MTB for those days where the "new" bike won't be able to handle the weather.

Basically, I am looking for an upgrade to my MTB because it is way too heavy and slow. 

[Debts_of_Despair]

Oh I would definitely get something you can mount racks and fenders on then.  I don't think you want a dedicated road bike.

[Guses]

I just looked again on my local BST site and there are not many potable bikes in the sub 300$ range.

If anyone feels especially generous with their time, I would appreciate suggestions of bikes in my area (Ottawa Canada).

Not too picky, road, hybrid, touring, used or new. I just want a light bike (i.e., significantly lighter than my hardtail) in the  250-400$ range that can take a rack. Disc brakes are nice but not necessary.

I am 5'11".

Oh I would definitely get something you can mount racks and fenders on then.  I don't think you want a dedicated road bike.

How can you tell whether you can mount a rack to a bike? Braze-ons?

Are there road bikes that you can put a rack on?

[Debts_of_Despair]

Yes, look for the braze-ons.  You can seem them for front and rear racks here: http://archive.trekbikes.com/us/en/2014/Trek/7_2_fx#/us/en/2014/Trek/7_2_fx/details

There are road bikes that have braze-ons.  They are usually classified as touring bikes.  That would be ideal but they are generally harder to find IME.

[Debts_of_Despair]

I looked on your CL.  There is a surprising lack of bikes on there.  I've got nothing.

[GuitarStv]

Oh I would definitely get something you can mount racks and fenders on then.  I don't think you want a dedicated road bike.

Actually, in this case I'd advise slightly differently.  She's already got a heavy ass mountain bike with fenders and racks.  That'll be fine for commuting in shitty downpours and winter conditions . . . but now she wants a nicer light/fast bike to make the commute easy.

Get the road bike.

- Pare down everything you take with you to bare essentials.  Keep your shoes, lock, spare flat repair kit/tools at the office.  You need bare minimum clothes, and your lunch.  That's it.  I'm able to get a backpack down to about 7 or 8 lbs this way, which means that it's not too uncomfortable to ride with.

- You want to use a backpack because you'll be going faster on the road bike . . . which means you'll discover that rear panniers actually add a lot of drag.  You are the other big source of aerodynamic drag on a bike, so make sure that you're wearing tight clothing that doesn't flap around.

- Bikes are lighter without fenders and a rack (and a kickstand).  You will notice the difference in speed and ease of travel.  If you need to have fenders on during the spring/fall because it's wet all the time, then look into Crud Roadracer type fenders . . . they don't need braze ons and work well.  Take them off in the summer though, you'll go faster without them.


This is basically the approach that I've taken with my bikes.  I ride the winter/rain bike all winter and the start of spring / end of fall.  It's fine.  The rest of the year is pure joy though.