Author Topic: Tell me about living in Philly  (Read 6062 times)

fallstoclimb

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Tell me about living in Philly
« on: June 05, 2016, 11:10:41 AM »
I just spent a weekend there and we are half-seriously considering a move.  We'd probably look at the Fishtown area.

What's it like to live around there?  Is it bike friendly, reasonably safe, etc?  Fishtown is unfortunately a bit of a hike away from any parks (as far as I can tell), but how is Wissahickon?  Is there a biking community with group rides, etc?  (I imagine there must be...) Any general thoughts on living there?

MrStash2000

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Re: Tell me about living in Philly
« Reply #1 on: June 05, 2016, 03:02:10 PM »
I love visiting Philly but I would never there by choice. The city has a wonderful vibe but I spent 18 years in South and Northeast Philadelphia. The city in general suffers from:

High crime
Very poor public schools
High taxes

Wissahickon on the other hand is a bit nicer area than most and Philly does have a TON of public parks. That part of town tends to be a bit more expensive though. I would be cautious and would do my homework on the neighborhood and home if I were to buy there.

fallstoclimb

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Re: Tell me about living in Philly
« Reply #2 on: June 05, 2016, 03:23:57 PM »
Oh, we wouldn't buy there, just looking to rent.

And we're coming from Baltimore (although we live in the suburbs).  I think as far as safety goes it's probably a huge improvement on our city.

I'm not sure whether I have it in me to live in the city or not, but I find the suburbs very isolating.

tipster350

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Re: Tell me about living in Philly
« Reply #3 on: June 05, 2016, 04:47:36 PM »
I grew up in Philly and returned to the area after 20 years on the West Coast. Many areas in Philly have changed A LOT for the better and are almost unrecognizable from 10 years ago. The Fishtown area is one of them. It is a thriving area and one of the neighborhoods of choice for millenials. There is a lot going on and the arts scene continues to expand. Crime rates are going down, and most parts of Fishtown are very safe, as safe as you would find for an urban neighborhood. Don't believe me, check the crime maps. I definitely recommend.

toodleoo

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Re: Tell me about living in Philly
« Reply #4 on: June 05, 2016, 06:39:11 PM »
This map is really handy for looking at different neighborhoods from a safety perspective:

https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/viewer?hl=en_US&mid=1HzxpniA-9y5MpbLwK1n_FyNNP90

ETBen

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Re: Tell me about living in Philly
« Reply #5 on: June 05, 2016, 06:43:17 PM »
I live in the Baltimore suburbs now.  I love it and the city, even having worked in some really poor communities.  Been in the area 15 years.  I have family throughout the Philly area.  You couldn't pay me to live there, by comparison.  It's no better, in some ways worse, not nearly as endearing, or welcoming of diversity (which says a lot). 

brotatochip

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Re: Tell me about living in Philly
« Reply #6 on: June 05, 2016, 06:58:34 PM »
I have a love/hate relationship with Philly.  I lived in East Falls, which is a 10 min train ride to center city, for a few years and have a lot of great memories.  Parking sucks, crime rate is high, rent is pricy buuutttt the night life is great and East Falls is very close to the art museum, Kelly drive (boat house row) and downtown.  If I had to do it all over again I definitely would!

HBFIRE

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Re: Tell me about living in Philly
« Reply #7 on: June 05, 2016, 08:42:21 PM »
Coming from Baltimore, it's probably similar regarding crime, etc.  But sorry to say, both cities are not places I'd choose to live (suburbs of Baltimore are okay).  And this is coming from someone who is from Baltimore and a big O's fan :).

magickelly

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Re: Tell me about living in Philly
« Reply #8 on: June 06, 2016, 12:35:30 AM »
Born and raised in the burbs (Delco), went to Penn. Left a few times as an adult for stints in north Jersey, Chicago and a couple of places in Michigan (east and west) but always keep coming back to Philly. I've seen it's considerable evolution over the last 3 decades.

- It's bigger than most realize - 1.5M people - 5th largest in the country, actually bigger than Boston, San Francisco or Dallas. NYC makes it feel small but come back from a trip to Pittsburgh or St. Louis and you are reminded that Philly is enormous and full of people.
- 3rd largest residential downtown in the US - walk/bike haven
- Very old, narrow streets, very dense, lots of history, lots of character and not just the Independence Hall area - amazing architecture and stories from one end to another
- It's probably most like NYC, just a much more manageable size, less crowded, less bustling, less 24/7 but very dense, great arts, museums, energy, architecture
- It's relatively LCOL compared to its neighboring triumvirate of NYC, Boston and DC. It's also been overshadowed by all three for a century and led to the inferiority complex that the famous Rocky movie captured so well.
- World class education and healthcare
- So big there's something for anyone no matter what your thing - music, micro brewing, mediation & spirituality, dancing, biking, swinging, you name it you can find a tribe if you seek them out
- VERY liberal; pretty melting pot; you can look and act as odd as you like and generally people really won't take note

- Very much a city of neighborhoods and each has a very distinct character - it's important to find the right one for you
-  I think very integrated and tolerant though that's my opinion and YYMV; many neighborhoods still self-segretate but everyone gets along downtown and in mixed neighborhoods; there's still white/black/other tension in lower class areas but probably wouldn't affect a neighborhood an MMM'er would live in
- Center City has gotten very expensive and lately feels more and more like a playground for the rich
- Broad swaths of the city are quite poor and crime/gang riddled and you need to stay away from these, which is not a problem, there's no reason to go there; sadly they give Philadelphia a reputation for being poor and dangerous, but really the majority of areas an MMM'er would live in are no less safe than any good neighborhoods in any other big city
- Used to be very provincial, also see this fading. 20 years ago it seemed like everyone here lived and died here and had that horrible accident and attitude (our sports team suck, we boo Santa and are proud of it...)
- Now head into CenterCity or the gentrified areas and it seems everyone is a transplant and no one says "wooder." (See Tina Fey nail the accent and the attitude 3 minutes into this http://www.nbc.com/saturday-night-live/video/bronx-beat-2015/2957169)
- The neighborhoods ringing Center City have been pushing out and gentrifying over the course of the past 20 years, starting in the 90s
- Fishtown is the latest neighborhood to be gobbled up by gentrification; very hipster
- East Falls is a gentrifying neighborhood around Wissahickon, easy bike to the gorge and Fairmount park; gorgeous to run/bike along the river; watch the sculls

It really depends on what you like. If you like cities, have a priority on walking/biking/public transit and relatively LCOL for the northeast and you especially like them with character, history, an edge, an attitude, a little dirty, and very very real, Philly is a great choice. 

If you want more info feel free to PM me.

I have a love/hate with Philly and don't intend to FIRE here, but the good outweigh the bad for now, my big salary goes really really far (right into my Vanguard taxable account), I live in Center City, walk everywhere (10 min walk to my FIRE-friendly high-paying corporate job!) and I love that it's so liberal and I am able to find folks who share my niche interests easily. I've always lived in Center City and I've never felt unsafe. Actually even when i was at Penn in the 90s and West Philly off campus was dicey (now gentrified) I never felt unsafe. It's all relative to your personal experiences and context. I landed on campus with people from Kansas terrified to ride the El because they'd never seen a subway before and were afraid they'd get mugged and i'm like, "I'm a white girl who's been riding that thing alone since i was 12, it's no big deal." Shrug.


HBFIRE

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Re: Tell me about living in Philly
« Reply #9 on: June 06, 2016, 09:11:25 AM »
just dont eat the philly cheesesteak the locals rave about.  ITs just cheez whiz on nasty steak.  Very disappointing. 

brotatochip

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Re: Tell me about living in Philly
« Reply #10 on: June 06, 2016, 05:33:22 PM »
just dont eat the philly cheesesteak the locals rave about.  ITs just cheez whiz on nasty steak.  Very disappointing.

None of the locals rave or eat at Pats or Genos

HBFIRE

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Re: Tell me about living in Philly
« Reply #11 on: June 06, 2016, 06:08:07 PM »
just dont eat the philly cheesesteak the locals rave about.  ITs just cheez whiz on nasty steak.  Very disappointing.

None of the locals rave or eat at Pats or Genos

i must be talking to the wrong locals then.

dude

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Re: Tell me about living in Philly
« Reply #12 on: June 07, 2016, 07:15:13 AM »
First off, cheesesteak is okay, but roasted pork sandwich with broccoli rabe is where it's at!  Paesano's or John's.

Live in Philly a couple times and absolutely love that city.  Love it.  So much to do.  I lived in Center City both times (2nd & Pine, and 9th & Lombard), my favorite area.  Had a short walk or bike ride to work (at the U.S. Custom House on 2nd & Chestnut), and was close to everything.  Had great, dog-friendly parks for my dogs, amazing restaurants and bars, public transportation access to pro sports venues, fantastic running routes (down by the Delaware, or up by the Schuylkill).  So much going for it.  Never felt unsafe for a minute anywhere I went in that city. Philly has a LOT of attitude, and if you are meek or mild-mannered it can probably take some getting used to, but I dug the vibe.

brute

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Re: Tell me about living in Philly
« Reply #13 on: June 07, 2016, 07:29:43 AM »
just dont eat the philly cheesesteak the locals rave about.  ITs just cheez whiz on nasty steak.  Very disappointing.

None of the locals rave or eat at Pats or Genos

Verily. my wife is from north philly. She got me to eat a cheesesteak at the reading terminal market. It was legit. Also, I like it with provolone, not whiz.

Now, as for philly in general. I like it. I'm a midwestern kid from giant viking stock. Being polite and a little shy didn't go over well for me there, but once I learned not to take it personally and not to try to be nice to anyone, it was fine. While Philly is more pleasant than NYC, it was a culture shock. Nothing is made for people well over 6' tall. I don't fit in most buildings, constantly have to duck. Food and beer scene is epic. Teresa's cafe in wayne is worth the expense and travel time. Monk's cafe is center city-ish is legendary. Eulogy was pretty good too.

There's never a shortage of things to do there. I really wouldn't mind ending up there, but I'm pretty happy back in the midwest for a little.

onlykelsey

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Re: Tell me about living in Philly
« Reply #14 on: June 07, 2016, 07:30:34 AM »
First off, cheesesteak is okay, but roasted pork sandwich with broccoli rabe is where it's at!  Paesano's or John's.

Live in Philly a couple times and absolutely love that city.  Love it.  So much to do.  I lived in Center City both times (2nd & Pine, and 9th & Lombard), my favorite area.  Had a short walk or bike ride to work (at the U.S. Custom House on 2nd & Chestnut), and was close to everything.  Had great, dog-friendly parks for my dogs, amazing restaurants and bars, public transportation access to pro sports venues, fantastic running routes (down by the Delaware, or up by the Schuylkill).  So much going for it.  Never felt unsafe for a minute anywhere I went in that city. Philly has a LOT of attitude, and if you are meek or mild-mannered it can probably take some getting used to, but I dug the vibe.

I grew up in Philly and when I moved to Texas and greeted people with friendly but quite firm punches to the arm, I realized how lucky I was to be a petite woman, haha.

JoRocka

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Re: Tell me about living in Philly
« Reply #15 on: June 07, 2016, 07:58:07 AM »
just dont eat the philly cheesesteak the locals rave about.  ITs just cheez whiz on nasty steak.  Very disappointing.

None of the locals rave or eat at Pats or Genos

i must be talking to the wrong locals then.

Tony Lukes man- tony Lukes.


I live outside Philly- there are certainly some plus's.   Public transit is good when it's good- but if you rely on it solely when it goes south- it really sucks.

I really like living outside of Philly- lots of options- both north and south (DC/NYC/AC if you like that sort of thing)-  the parking is a real issue in the city- when it snows- the city is practically crippled.  I like all the outside festival events and what not- it's good- lots of food- lots of music.

And Philly sports fans are fucking insane.

So- I like living here in the North East- but it's certainly not for everyone LOL

Northwestie

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Re: Tell me about living in Philly
« Reply #16 on: June 07, 2016, 09:30:21 AM »
It has a per-capita murder rate higher than Mexico

tipster350

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Re: Tell me about living in Philly
« Reply #17 on: June 07, 2016, 10:09:07 AM »
"It has a per-capita murder rate higher than Mexico"

That may or may not be for the City of Philadelphia, as you have not provided any data, but is not relevant to the discussion. The neighborhoods being discussed have very low crime rates, as already noted with factual information.

Northwestie

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Re: Tell me about living in Philly
« Reply #18 on: June 07, 2016, 10:15:35 AM »
« Last Edit: June 07, 2016, 10:17:32 AM by Northwestie »

oldmannickels

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Re: Tell me about living in Philly
« Reply #19 on: June 07, 2016, 10:22:48 AM »
I live in Fairmount, which is right next to the art museum. There's some crime but mostly just the usual theft from car or targeted break ins. I like the location because its walking / biking distance to CC and adjacent to Fairmount Park / Kelly Drive. My block has a very sesame street without the puppets vibe.  People say parking can be bad, but if you bike or walk that doesn't really matter. COL is very similar to Baltimore.

For bike groups check out http://bicyclecoalition.org/

tipster350

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Re: Tell me about living in Philly
« Reply #20 on: June 07, 2016, 10:34:49 AM »
"From your source:
The overall crime rate in Fishtown is 2% lower than the national average.
For every 100,000 people, there are 7.92 daily crimes that occur in Fishtown.
Fishtown is safer than 78% of the cities in the Pennsylvania.
In Fishtown you have a 1 in 35 chance of becoming a victim of any crime.
The number of total year over year crimes in Philadelphia has decreased by 3%."
One of the questions asked was "....is it safe?"

Seems relevant to me.

Here you go champ.

http://www.nbcnews.com/id/18278063/ns/us_news-crime_and_courts/t/philadelphia-sees-murder-rate-day/#.V1byRkZ0z4g

http://www.nationmaster.com/country-info/stats/Crime/Murder-rate

Fishtown rated as a "D" for crime.  Not so hot.  http://www.areavibes.com/philadelphia-pa/fishtown/crime/
[/quote

From your own source http://www.areavibes.com/philadelphia-pa/fishtown/crime/
:


« Last Edit: June 07, 2016, 10:36:33 AM by tipster350 »

dougules

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Re: Tell me about living in Philly
« Reply #21 on: June 07, 2016, 10:50:47 AM »
It has a per-capita murder rate higher than Mexico

Have you been to Mexico?  Much like Philadelphia, it's a big place.  Some areas are scary, but other parts of Mexico are wonderful.  It's a potential FIRE destination for us. 

Philadelphia may be a LCOL area for Northeasterners, but it's still super expensive and too cold to a Southerner like me.  I love big cities, so I would definitely consider Philadelphia if it weren't cold and expensive. 

DH is from a small town in the area and his impression of the place is from seeing all the murders on the local news in the 80s.  Plus he never wants to see snow again. 

pbkmaine

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Re: Tell me about living in Philly
« Reply #22 on: June 07, 2016, 10:54:51 AM »
As a native of Philadelphia, I am loving the comparison to Mexico.

Northwestie

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Re: Tell me about living in Philly
« Reply #23 on: June 07, 2016, 11:37:55 AM »
As a native of Philadelphia, I am loving the comparison to Mexico.

But Mexico doesn't have cheese steak or TastyKakes!!!   Which, BTW are available on Amazon - who knew? 

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=tastykake&tag=mh0b-20&index=grocery&hvadid=3527220707&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_8tnd6pdtbh_e


Northwestie

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Re: Tell me about living in Philly
« Reply #24 on: June 07, 2016, 11:39:06 AM »
It has a per-capita murder rate higher than Mexico

Have you been to Mexico?   

Ummm, only about 12 times - Spanish fluent.

tipster350

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Re: Tell me about living in Philly
« Reply #25 on: June 07, 2016, 12:08:47 PM »
just dont eat the philly cheesesteak the locals rave about.  ITs just cheez whiz on nasty steak.  Very disappointing.

None of the locals rave or eat at Pats or Genos

The locals tell you to go to Pats or Genos for the nasty steak with whiz to keep you from clogging up their favorite steak shops.

brute

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Re: Tell me about living in Philly
« Reply #26 on: June 07, 2016, 01:03:13 PM »
It has a per-capita murder rate higher than Mexico

Have you been to Mexico?   

Ummm, only about 12 times - Spanish fluent.


I'm not sure comparing a city to a country makes sense. City to city, sure. Country to country, fine. But when you mix and match, the statistics don't necessarily mean what it looks like at first.

fallstoclimb

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Re: Tell me about living in Philly
« Reply #27 on: June 07, 2016, 01:17:14 PM »
Yeah as long as there aren't roving bands of teens/preteens attacking cyclists I think it'll be OK safety-wise.

Thanks for the responses, all. I think what I really need to figure out is if I'm willing to give up easy access to the woods, which is the one major benefit of the suburbs where we live.

JoRocka

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Re: Tell me about living in Philly
« Reply #28 on: June 07, 2016, 02:31:27 PM »
As a native of Philadelphia, I am loving the comparison to Mexico.

But Mexico doesn't have cheese steak or TastyKakes!!!   Which, BTW are available on Amazon - who knew? 

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=tastykake&tag=mh0b-20&index=grocery&hvadid=3527220707&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_8tnd6pdtbh_e

I helped build the Revzilla shop next to the TastyKake's factory near the Navy Yards.
How I didn't turn into a whale I'll never know- shit smelled so good. ALL DAY.

neophyte

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Re: Tell me about living in Philly
« Reply #29 on: June 07, 2016, 03:31:11 PM »
I've been living in West Philly with no car for 4 years now.  I find the city to be pretty accessible by foot and bike. Compared to where I moved from, the public transit is woefully inadequate, but compared to the majority of the US it is really good. Being as objective as I can, it is decent but slow and there are only 2 subway lines.  I like the city most of the time, but it is still a love/hate relationship.  Most of the time I feel pretty safe, but there have been a few times when I've been walking alone at night in places that I definitely felt jittery about. My favorite crime maps for checking out an area:

http://www.phillycrimemap.org/
https://www.phillypolice.com/crime-maps-stats/

Most murders and violent crime are targeted and not likely to affect you.

Philly is convenient to NYC and DC and you can find bus tickets dirt cheap.

NoLibs and Fishtown are pretty nice and rapidly gentrifying. Kensington, not as good.

I like the Wissahickon, and it is possible to almost forget you are in the city when you are out there, but the woods and hiking are still one of the things I miss the most. If you have a car there are a lot of nice hiking spots within a couple hours drive.  There's also the John Heinz Wildlife Refuge


« Last Edit: June 07, 2016, 03:41:19 PM by neophyte »

HBFIRE

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Re: Tell me about living in Philly
« Reply #30 on: June 07, 2016, 04:07:52 PM »
just dont eat the philly cheesesteak the locals rave about.  ITs just cheez whiz on nasty steak.  Very disappointing.

None of the locals rave or eat at Pats or Genos

The locals tell you to go to Pats or Genos for the nasty steak with whiz to keep you from clogging up their favorite steak shops.

Maybe.  I was there for an affiliate conference a couple years back, and spent the day with local affiliates.  They took us to the supposed best places, and it was atrocious.  I mean, Philly was cool for a day trip, seeing the rocky stairs, liberty bell, etc.  But I think going there one time in my life is good enough.  NY on the other hand, love to visit.  Definitely not my kinda place, of course I've gotten used to the west.
« Last Edit: June 07, 2016, 05:12:26 PM by dustinst22 »

 

Wow, a phone plan for fifteen bucks!