Author Topic: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle  (Read 13194 times)

Sailor Sam

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Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« on: April 20, 2015, 07:55:05 PM »
Hi There. I'm Sam. I've been reading the boards for a couple years at this point, but I've never had a unique question or comment until now. I’m relocating to Seattle, WA courtesy of the U.S. government. For the last 10 years all my socialization has also come courtesy of the U.S. government, but Seattle will be my first remote assignment. No ship, no base, no commissary, and most important no ready made pool of friends to advise me on Seattle living. Terrifying! Will you wonderful (and no doubt good looking) folks lend me some information?

 Here’s what I’m wondering:

1. Best place to economically grocery shop?

2. Any recommendations on olympic style lifting gyms?

3. Any one endorse Cappy’s Boxing gym or Seattle Boxing Gym?

4. I’m going to be biking to work. I assume I need some kind of kick-ass rain gear. Any recommendations on brands and/or shops?

5. I’m iffy on coffee and wearing fleece. Will there be any sort of Gattica-esque genetic test when I arrive? Will my central brainstem be reprogramed???   

As you have read, I have pressing questions. I’m going to be renting a condo in the University District, if that’s important.

Thanks!
S_S

Ricky

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #1 on: April 20, 2015, 08:09:32 PM »
#4: You (usually) don't need raingear at all. Seattle doesn't actually get more rain than any other city, it just drizzles a lot. Any light jacket would do.

#5: Of course not? Just like any city that is known for certain things, it doesn't completely define everything about it.

#1. When I was there, I found Safeway to be reasonable. Trader Joes also isn't bad for certain items. Not sure if there is either in the Uni area.

Noodle

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #2 on: April 20, 2015, 09:16:37 PM »
Seattle's a fun city, and more varied than the media makes it out to be. There are certainly plenty of fleece-wearing, keyboard-tapping tech nerds, and also a goodly number of crunchy liberals of all varieties, but Seattle was a lumber/shipping/fishing port for a really long time before the coffee and tech crowd moved in and there are those folks (or their children) around too, which the local politicians manage to forget on a regular basis for some reason. And with Bremerton and Joint Base Lewis-McChord nearby, military and ex-military folks aren't unusual. (And I will say, although the coffee culture is very eyeroll-worthy, it also serves an actual purpose in the cold, damp Seattle weather. Many a day waiting for the bus in January was better with a hot beverage.)The U District is relatively convenient and definitely central to the public transit system, with the light rail due to arrive there very soon.

Per grocery shopping, when I lived there I was carfree and Safeway was the cheapest thing I had access to, but my sister (who does have a car) seems to find Fred Meyer and Costco to be her favorites. Lots of Trader Joe's available, but if you haven't had access to one before, check out a Grocery Outlet. It is a WEIRD assortment of stuff, but fun to poke around in and what you do buy will be much cheaper than average. Another place that has good prices on what it is (but keep in mind we're talking about imports, so price is relative) is Pacific Food Imports south of downtown. Amazing cheese and olives but they make you buy good-size quantities so I always went in with someone when I shopped there.

For veggies, The neighborhood Farmers Markets (the U District has a great one) and Pike Place Market are a lot of fun to walk around but I always found them to be pretty expensive. If you are the kind of person who wants organic produce, I found a weekly CSA box to be a much better deal, or if you want to buy as you go and don't care about organic, Rising Sun Produce Market had great prices but is definitely not fancy and usually not organic. If you have a lady (or gentleman) friend, or Mom, visiting who likes flowers, those are $5 for a good-size bunch or $10 for an enormous bunch at Pike Place Market, cheaper than the farmers' markets. (Buy them right before you leave, though, buying first and having to carry them around is something newbies fall for all the time) The food culture is pretty twee, but the thing is, the food is SO good. I miss the amazing bakeries, and cider, and summer stone fruits (cherries! peaches! plums!--spend the money at the farmer's market for those), etc etc.

Sailor Sam

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #3 on: April 21, 2015, 04:11:49 PM »
Excellent advice, everybody. Thank you very much. lhamo, special thanks for the invitation. It would be great to finally meet some of the community.



Noodle

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #4 on: April 21, 2015, 04:20:15 PM »
Let us know what other questions come up. I think there are quite a few Seattle-ites and ex-Seattle-ites around the forum...

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #5 on: April 21, 2015, 04:26:52 PM »
I live nearby and shop at a combination of Safeway, Trader Joe's, Rising Sun produce market, and Costco. I've heard good things about Grocery Outlet but haven't been. Fred Meyer isn't as convenient so don't go there very often, they probably have better prices on some things.

There used to be a great cheap fruit/veg stand on the intersection of 65th and 15th, but I think I remember reading that it got torn down. 

I think you're referring to Rising Sun produce market, which is still up and running with the best prices on most fresh produce. Exceptions I am aware of are bananas (Trader Joe's is cheaper) and organic carrots (Safeway has a 2lb bag for $1.89).

Here is a sample of my shopping based on price comparisons between TJs, Safeway, Rising Sun, and Costco:

Costco:
Nuts, dried fruit, beans, lentils, other items if used in large quantity. Costco also tends to have the best prices on high end items but no options for lower end items. For example, Fage greek yogurt is the only greek yogurt they carry. Items do rotate every couple of months so that's not a hard and fast rule.

Safeway:
Organic carrots
Cage free Eggs (18 for $5)

Trader Joes:
Greek Yogurt
Guacamole
Spices (in normal quantities, otherwise Costco)
Bananas


SeattleStache

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #6 on: April 21, 2015, 05:05:18 PM »
Welcome! Here's some quick initial thoughts:

1) Uwajimaya, fruit stands on Beacon Hill, Trader Joe's, Grocery Outlet.
2) ?
3) Love Cappy's - went there for years. Another good one to check out is Arcaro Boxing on 12th and Jefferson.  I think Cappy's is moving soon since their current location is going to be redeveloped.
4) I see lots of people wearing Shower's Pass gear.  I usually just wear cheap rain pants if needed and a jacket.  I personally just change at work when I ride in and don't worry if I get too wet.  If you wear wool you'll stay mostly warm.  Hardcore rain gear will just keep all your sweat in so you'll be wet anyway :)
5) I also didn't drink coffee before moving here and now can't imagine living without it. Just say no to fleece.

Syonyk

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #7 on: April 21, 2015, 05:09:38 PM »
4. I’m going to be biking to work. I assume I need some kind of kick-ass rain gear. Any recommendations on brands and/or shops?

5. I’m iffy on coffee and wearing fleece. Will there be any sort of Gattica-esque genetic test when I arrive? Will my central brainstem be reprogramed???   

I'm sorry.  I hope you like the area better than I do.  Technically I'm on the east side.

4. Shower's Pass.  Or just get wet.  Or find whatever your local bike shop carries.
5. Coffee isn't really an option here.  It's an efficient, mostly healthy way to deal with the winters.  Also, IPAs.  There is an excellent variety of high alcohol content IPAs in the area.  They're popular for a reason.  If you've chewed on pressed hops, and thought, "Yes!  This is awesome, just add alcohol!" - you're well on your way to enjoying PNW beers.

#4: You (usually) don't need raingear at all. Seattle doesn't actually get more rain than any other city, it just drizzles a lot. Any light jacket would do.

True until the past few years.  It's been raining, properly hard, for the last 2-3 years, and sometimes it's a proper midwest-style thunderstorm.  People who've lived here a long while are very confused by this.  And all the roads flood when it rains hard. :/

Let us know what other questions come up. I think there are quite a few Seattle-ites and ex-Seattle-ites around the forum...

I'm currently looking to exit the area.

On the other hand, if you want recommendations for how to build a very high quality Seattle-proof ebike (between the hills and the rain, most ebikes look at the area and run), I'm glad to help out.  A few grand builds you something spectacular for getting around the area.  For the actual downtown, I'd suggest a mid-drive system.

zoltani

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #8 on: April 21, 2015, 05:20:09 PM »
For groceries skip uwajimaya, it is the most overpriced asian grocery. Try Lam's produce, it rules hard.


Jon_Snow

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #9 on: April 21, 2015, 07:00:03 PM »
Spent the weekend in the Seattle area because my wife and I ran the Whidbey Island race...every time I'm down there I realize how much I love it. Wandered around Seattle Center on Saturday, saw the Star Wars costume exhibit at the EMP...my inner geek was satisfied.

Gotta get down there more. Great city.

jooles

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #10 on: April 22, 2015, 10:11:23 AM »
The Outlet Grocery is a great place of low cost foods.  Some folks also call it the Rainbow Grocery although Outlet Grocer is its official name.  There is a fruit and vegetable market near the VA Hospital on Beacon Hill called McPherson's.  I used to work at the VA and we all affectionately called it the used fruit stand.  McPherson's sells produce from the big food suppliers that the grocery stores don't buy either due to over supply or it's not quite as beautiful and uniform as they'd like.  I could usually get a giant load of fruits and veggies for $20.00, enough to freeze some and bake like crazy.  You just need to know that what you buy at McPherson's won't have the same shelf life as what you get in the grocery store generally.  So I'd just go home and wash, chop and freeze things like onions and peppers for future spaghetti sauces, chili and stew.  Then I'd make ahead complete main dishes and desserts too.  I'd freeze them so lunches can just be grab and go.

Another great place for bargains is ethnic stores.  I love H Mart at Alderwood Mall.  It's an enormous Asian store.  You can get super deals on unique ingredients like rice flour, garbanzo flour, etc. for those gluten free things you'd like to make.  H Mart also has good prices on fruits and vegetables and super great prices on unique exotics in fruits and veggies that you pay a premium for, or can't find at all, at regular grocers.  There is also an Indian store in Bellevue I like.  I can't remember the name, but it's next door to Chuck E Cheese at the corner of 24th Street NE and 148th Ave NE.

WinCo grocery stores generally have good prices too.  Safeway, Hagen, Top Foods, PCC, Whole Foods, are all to be avoided, unless you shop ONLY for the loss leaders in the advertisement.

Welcome to Seattle and best of luck. 

celticmyst08

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #11 on: April 22, 2015, 10:29:50 AM »
Another great place for bargains is ethnic stores.  I love H Mart at Alderwood Mall.  It's an enormous Asian store.  You can get super deals on unique ingredients like rice flour, garbanzo flour, etc. for those gluten free things you'd like to make.  H Mart also has good prices on fruits and vegetables and super great prices on unique exotics in fruits and veggies that you pay a premium for, or can't find at all, at regular grocers.  There is also an Indian store in Bellevue I like.  I can't remember the name, but it's next door to Chuck E Cheese at the corner of 24th Street NE and 148th Ave NE.

+1 for ethnic stores. There are so many of them here. I love the 99 Ranch Market in Edmonds. Also, if you like Turkish/Greek/Mediterranean food, there's an amazing little market in Lake City called Goodies. They also have a takeout counter that sells fresh-made DELICIOUS flatbread.

Sailor Sam

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #12 on: April 22, 2015, 05:42:29 PM »
Wow and dang shipmates, thanks for all the replies and advice. You guys have made me feel very welcome. Additional note, I have now found the 'notify me of replies' button. My efficiency rate of reply is about to skyrocket.

The grocery recommendations are great, with lots of places to check out. I actually made a MMM forum account after going to a place called Metropolitan Market during the Great Apartment Hunt. I didn't control the car, so I only got to visit the one high-end store but the prices still made my eyes bug out with panic. Then I realized that this nice board could help me out.

Thanks for the endorsement for Cappy's and Arcaro Boxing. And based on the rain advice, I'm going to wait and re-assess once it actually starts to rain.


I'm currently looking to exit the area.


Oh thank the Alien Space Bat for your post Syonyk. I assume I'm going to like Seattle just fine, but every single person I talk to about the city suddenly starts to grin and rave about how wonderful the place is. The mountains! The ocean! The craft beer! Microsoft, Amazon, and Boeing! I was starting to wonder if some sort of Stepford thing was being dumped into the water. The dissenting opinion usually keeps things in balance. Good luck finding your next location.

Syonyk

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #13 on: April 22, 2015, 06:13:37 PM »
It's just Stockholm Syndrome.

The weather stopped beating me this week! It's soooo amazing!!!!!

My next step is rural Idaho.

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #14 on: April 22, 2015, 06:41:08 PM »
Seasonal Affective Disorder is a real thing and the gray winters do drive many people away to sunnier locations. Staying active and just going out even when it rains really helps. If you find the weather affecting your mood, be proactive about it early. In reality, the winters in Seattle are much easier than a lot of places in the US.

Really expensive foul weather gear has a pretty quick diminishing rate of return for bike commuting. A really lightweight shell and $25 rain pants will cover most of it for shorter distances. I just put those on over regular clothes and go for it for shorter distances (maybe 4 miles or less). If I'm going further in nasty weather, then I just wear regular biking clothes (wind/rain resistant tights and equivalent shell) and go for it. My full bike commute is 15 miles one way and I bike-bus in the morning and full-ride home. A small, lightweight drybag for your essentials will help with phones and such through the winter and allow you to use any backpack for commuting instead of having to buy an expensive waterproof bag. A ziploc works pretty well too.

You didn't ask about this, but get an Orca card. It is an RFID card that covers you for pretty much all public transport and automates all transfers, etc. If you get employer reimbursement for bus commuting costs, it is an easy way to track those expenses as well. Mostly it eliminates the shuffling of quarters and bills at every bus stop. Busing to downtown from the U-dist is much better than driving.

You didn't say when you were getting out here, but there is a Seattle MMM meetup at gasworks (about a mile from the U-district) shaping up for the Thursday before memorial day weekend.

Summers in Seattle are a bit mind-bendingly nice.

Also, Thai Toms on the Ave is not to be missed for deliciousness.

zoltani

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #15 on: April 23, 2015, 12:05:24 PM »



I'm currently looking to exit the area.


Oh thank the Alien Space Bat for your post Syonyk. I assume I'm going to like Seattle just fine, but every single person I talk to about the city suddenly starts to grin and rave about how wonderful the place is. The mountains! The ocean! The craft beer! Microsoft, Amazon, and Boeing! I was starting to wonder if some sort of Stepford thing was being dumped into the water. The dissenting opinion usually keeps things in balance. Good luck finding your next location.
[/quote]

Yes, there are many great things about seattle, and many of them have nothing to do with seattle at all (mountains etc). The city itself is one of the most beautiful in the country IMHO. That said, it is becoming more and more yuppie, with more and more people with loads of cash moving in. Certain neighborhoods cannot support small shops, such as record stores and bike shops, because it seems all people care about spending money on is fancy restaurants and bars. People will no even blink an eye at spending $3,000/month for a 1-bedroom apartment in capitol hill. The city is systemically destroying its own history, tearing down historic buildings and replacing them cheap condos with no soul. Pretty soon (if not already) it will be a city that is a mix of san franciso and vancouver BC, yuppie, ugly, souless. Unfortunatley the buildings that are going up are made of cheap materials with poor architecture. The kind of buildings that we will look at in 10-20 years (if not now) and say "WHY?", or "OMG that is so 2010s".


 

Syonyk

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #16 on: April 23, 2015, 12:19:39 PM »
There are a lot of places with mountains and pretty outdoor areas that don't cram 4+ million people into a tiny area that doesn't have the roads or infrastructure for them.

:)

zoltani

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #17 on: April 23, 2015, 12:26:41 PM »
But not many BIG mountains where you can do actual, you know, mountaineering. Washington still has many glaciers, more than anywhere else in the lower 48. Rainier is not high when compared to other peaks in the country, but none have the prominence of Rainier.

We have very remote ranges with big alpine objectives, such as the pickets. Near all of this you have the ocean. You can climb a mountain and surf the ocean in a day. And even throw in some mountain biking or skiing (maybe not this year) for an extra big day.

Syonyk

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #18 on: April 23, 2015, 12:55:05 PM »
m'kay.

It depends on how you value those things as compared to being crammed in with way too many people, terrible traffic, and the aggressive drivers that feel like killing bicyclists to save a few seconds (so they can go drive 45 mph in the left lane of the highway sooner).

zoltani

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #19 on: April 23, 2015, 01:01:59 PM »
I value it highly, YMMV


Sailor Sam

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #20 on: April 23, 2015, 02:53:12 PM »

Unfortunately the buildings that are going up are made of cheap materials with poor architecture. The kind of buildings that we will look at in 10-20 years (if not now) and say "WHY?", or "OMG that is so 2010s".
 

Yes. The interesting (?) Nouveau Seattle architecture. I haven't made my mind up about it yet. I lived 10 years in the gothic South, and the Seattle designs are pretty jarring. At one point the realtor showed me a house with corrugated metal walls joined with shackles and turnbuckles. I summarily rejected it, but I'll probably assimilate the style eventually.

Glenstache, thanks for the note about the ORCA card. I checked into it, and I will definitely be getting one.

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #21 on: April 23, 2015, 02:54:16 PM »

zephyr911

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #22 on: April 23, 2015, 02:58:56 PM »
I have lovely memories from spending my college years there ('96-'00), before COL went through the roof. I laugh when I think back to renting an upper Queen Anne apartment with floor-to-ceiling windows and a glorious city/bay view (essentially the Kerry Park postcard view) for less than $700. But I digress.

As has been pointed out, there are exceptions to the drizzling (I call B.S. on the supposed novelty of that, because I recall spring showers occasionally drenching me) but in general, people just grin and bear it. I broke my umbrella within months and never bothered with another one. I mostly wore a peacoat and a brimmed hat, and dried them indoors for my next trip out.

What I really loved, as a broke college kid, was the massive proliferation of free entertainment in beautiful places. I never had $5 to spare and somehow I was never bored. Just walking around downtown entertained me for hours. Alki Beach is awesome for biking and skating. The mountains - real effing mountains - are just an hour away. The Olympic Peninsula is gorgeous all around too. Make sure you check out the islands... all of them if you can find time! I love the COL where I live, but I love having family out there to visit. It's pretty great.

Syonyk

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #23 on: April 23, 2015, 03:20:39 PM »
http://crosscut.com/2015/04/puget-sounds-5-worst-transportation-problems/

The new tolling on 405 will run up to around $10 for the full length as well.

Syonyk

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #24 on: April 23, 2015, 03:32:03 PM »
TMobile, and accept that it won't work in the mountains except around ski resorts.

AT&T has OK coverage out in the mountains, depending on where you are.  The only carrier that really covers rural areas well is Verizon, though.

zoltani

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #25 on: April 23, 2015, 03:36:18 PM »
Hate this place! Nothing to do but hang around.




zoltani

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #26 on: April 23, 2015, 03:39:14 PM »
I use ting and have been happy. Roaming on verizon for voice, it is the best for the rural/mountain regions. Remember, even if your phone shows no service you can dial 911 and leave it on.

If you are gonna be doing riskier activities in the mountains were self rescue would be difficult or impossible then get a PLB or spot.

celticmyst08

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #27 on: April 23, 2015, 04:10:50 PM »
Can I semi-hijack this thread to ask about what cheap cell phone options Seattle area folks (especially those who do a lot of hiking and biking in the Cascades) like?  I've got a Virgin Mobile phone that we use when we are back visiting, but I need to upgrade to a smart phone (will be using it for housing/cheap furniture search).  I could just stick with Virgin and upgrade the phone/move up to a data plan --I am currently grandfathered in on their cheapest option at $20+tax for 3 months, pay per minute and no data, and the $20 gets credited to the phone so I have $365 I can still use.  Probably make sense for me to stick with Virgin at least until I use down those credits, but I'm a little worried about their coverage, especially in the mountains (I think they use the Sprint network).

I'd also be interested in knowing what companies people like for cable/internet, especially in the north end.

We use Cricket. $90/month for two phones with 5 GB data each and unlimited talk/text. We will probably downgrade to their cheaper plan with 2.5 GB data. I've had no issues with cell service. We take fairly regular trips out to Walla Walla and the signal is fine all along the I-90 corridor except for a brief stretch going over the pass. I switched from Verizon and I really have only noticed a difference in super rural areas.

I haven't actually tried to use the phone much while hiking in the mountains, though. I know we've gotten okay (1-2 bars) signal up in the Hwy 2 area (Skykomish) and also up in North Cascades N.P.
« Last Edit: April 23, 2015, 04:12:29 PM by celticmyst08 »

PawPrint53

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #28 on: April 23, 2015, 04:27:21 PM »
It's just Stockholm Syndrome.

The weather stopped beating me this week! It's soooo amazing!!!!!

My next step is rural Idaho.

Have you ever lived in Idaho? It definitely has its own issues, starting with the state legislature.

zoltani

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #29 on: April 23, 2015, 04:30:46 PM »
It's just Stockholm Syndrome.

The weather stopped beating me this week! It's soooo amazing!!!!!

My next step is rural Idaho.

Have you ever lived in Idaho? It definitely has its own issues, starting with the state legislature.

Ah jeez, let's not get him started again. If you want his opinion look at his posts on other seattle threads.

Glenstache

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #30 on: April 23, 2015, 04:39:28 PM »
It's just Stockholm Syndrome.

The weather stopped beating me this week! It's soooo amazing!!!!!

My next step is rural Idaho.

Have you ever lived in Idaho? It definitely has its own issues, starting with the state legislature.

Ah jeez, let's not get him started again. If you want his opinion look at his posts on other seattle threads.

Stockholm also looks like a nice place to live. :)

I use tmobile and it seems to be as good as anybody else for coverage throughout the state. My price/month is specific to my situation, so not really useful for comparison. Before my current deal I had $50/mo unlimited data and 300 minutes a month (after taxes, fees, gremlins). If you have a phone or just buy one off ebay, this can be much cheaper.

Syonyk

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #31 on: April 23, 2015, 04:47:28 PM »
It's just Stockholm Syndrome.

The weather stopped beating me this week! It's soooo amazing!!!!!

My next step is rural Idaho.

Have you ever lived in Idaho? It definitely has its own issues, starting with the state legislature.

I'm quite aware of where I'm moving. I consider it a huge improvement.

//EDIT: More specifically, if someone had actually told me any of the reality about Seattle, instead of nothing but gushing "OMG SEATTLE is SOOOOO amazing you'll LOVE it there!!!!", my wife & I probably wouldn't have moved up here.  We had a pretty nice thing going in an area we loved before moving, and moved more or less on a coin flip (different company for work, but I was fine with either staying or going), and nobody ever bothered to tell us the crappy stuff about this area, it's traffic, it's dysfunction, etc.  But, on the other side, pot is legal up here now, so... um.  It's got that going for it?
« Last Edit: April 23, 2015, 04:55:46 PM by Syonyk »

mulescent

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #32 on: April 23, 2015, 05:01:23 PM »
Hi there, and welcome to Seattle!

I'll add a few things to what has been said. 

1)  Fred Meyer is a good suggestion for inexpensive food.  Met Market is literally THE WORST in terms of price.  There is also a restaurant supply store called Cash and Carry that has insane deals if you are willing to buy in bulk.  Think Costco but without the drive to the boonies (the nearest one to the U district is in Ballard).

2)  I bike every day, so I have some opinions on that.  I echo others in saying that for biking you will need a waterproof backpack, jacket and pants.  I love Ortlieb packs.  They just replaced my 5 yo one under warranty for some relatively minor wear.  Shower's Pass is my favorite biking raingear manufacturer.  They have super expensive jackets, but their commuter one is much cheaper and works well.  If you haven't ridden on roads before, take some time to learn.  It's safe if done correctly, but kind of terrifying at first.

3)  You mentioned that people love Seattle, and they do!  I do!  The two things that I DON'T like about it here are the traffic and the COL.  Fortunately there are easy solutions to each of these problems.  Bike everywhere and avoid the obvious condo/townhouse wealth sucking areas of town (South Lake Union, Belltown and Capitol Hill, mostly) when choosing an area to live and you'll be fine.  Some people hate the weather, but I don't.  I moved here from San Diego and have grown to love the rain.  It's comforting.  Who would have thought?


big_slacker

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #33 on: April 23, 2015, 05:02:33 PM »
Mountains are awesome. The mountain biking is world class. I moved here from Tahoe and I can say without reservation the trails themselves are better. Evergreen mountain bike association is incredible with the trail maintenance. Duthie mountain bike park, tiger mountain and grand ridge are all 25-35 minutes (without peak traffic) from downtown and are rideable even in the rain. All those and many more are hikeable as well. And you can keep going east for even more mountain!

But it is freakin' expensive to live out closer to the mountains, unless you live way out which may bring up commute issues.

I don't want to dog downtown too much, but I think it's pretty dirty, full of homeless, traffic and aggro people as a general rule. I take my family down there (on the bus, F driving it and parking craziness!) but I know they're gonna see a some crazy lady cussing her dog out, have 5 guys ask them for change even though they're 4 years old and almost get run over by a guy on a singlespeed.

In terms of the neighborhoods some are nice, some not so much but all seem universally packed with cars and narrow streets. So a good place to not own a car or not drive it much if you do have one. :)

Traffic is a disaster if you live anywhere north, south, east or west of the city. Maybe the least if you're east on i90, but again expensive till you get WAY out from the city.

Weather... When I moved here I ended up with a severe vitamin D deficiency and had to mega dose for a while and now take some daily. That's fine, and after 3.5 years I think I'm adjusted and actually enjoy a nice rainy week. Thing about it is, as an outdoor guy you can be out all year because it almost never actually gets cold. You just need some rain gear and a fender for your bike.

Syonyk

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #34 on: April 23, 2015, 05:15:19 PM »
If you haven't ridden on roads before, take some time to learn.  It's safe if done correctly, but kind of terrifying at first.

I'd also add that a neon helmet cover (and a neon riding jacket if you're wearing one) seems to help a lot.  I spent a good while adding lighting and it didn't make a damned bit of difference to people trying to kill me by pulling out in front of me, but bright, clashing neon seems to have done the trick (a blend of neon yellow and neon green).  High neon is better than low neon - riding pants probably don't have to be bright, but a vivid helmet makes a big difference.  And watch out for Priuses.

Traffic is a disaster if you live anywhere north, south, east or west of the city. Maybe the least if you're east on i90, but again expensive till you get WAY out from the city.

Traffic is a disaster.  Period.  It literally takes one crash during rush hour to clog up all the highways.  If you can't do it on bike, don't rely on making it somewhere in a given amount of time.  Even the busses aren't useful, as they're stuck in the same traffic as everyone else.

Roland of Gilead

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #35 on: April 23, 2015, 05:45:32 PM »
I didn't read through the whole thread so sorry if someone already mentioned this, but the Burke Gilman trail goes right through the U district and is an excellent bike route.   You can follow it to the Puget Sound in Ballard or go east on it all the way around the top of Lake Washington, through Bothell, Woodinville, and down into Redmond.   It is all paved and railroad grade (probably because most of it used to be a railroad).

Syonyk

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #36 on: April 23, 2015, 06:06:54 PM »
It rained some today.

Apr 23 2015, 1705 live traffic report via Google.

big_slacker

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #37 on: April 23, 2015, 06:15:13 PM »
Damn that's jacked up.

It rained some today.

Apr 23 2015, 1705 live traffic report via Google.

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #38 on: April 23, 2015, 06:36:06 PM »
It rained some today.


That traffic also happens sometimes when it is sunny, when it is cloudy, or when DST happens. Traffic can be a pain. This can be mitigated through choice of work hours *if* your job is flexible. I have found that drivers in Seattle are for the most part pretty good about being around bikes relative to other areas I've lived. But, it is the small percentage of bad/aggressive drivers that are the problem. I've taken a few iterations to get my bike routes worked out and strategies for problem intersections. Biking makes the traffic way easier to deal with. Bright lights help, but big surface area bright/reflective colors really are the key. I have a neon jacket I wear when it is cool enough to do so and a big yellow reflective triangle on my backpack.

Seattle isn't for everyone. SAD can be a deal breaker for some. All that comes with big cities in places with topography are deal breakers for others. Ultimately, the responsibility for that decision is yours, not someone else's opinion of the place.

Ricky

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #39 on: April 23, 2015, 07:25:55 PM »
Quote from: big_slacker

I don't want to dog downtown too much, but I think it's pretty dirty, full of homeless, traffic and aggro people as a general rule. I take my family down there (on the bus, F driving it and parking craziness!) but I know they're gonna see a some crazy lady cussing her dog out, have 5 guys ask them for change even though they're 4 years old and almost get run over by a guy on a singlespeed.

In terms of the neighborhoods some are nice, some not so much but all seem universally packed with cars and narrow streets. So a good place to not own a car or not drive it much if you do have one. :)

These are both very good points. When I was there in January, I found it almost unbearable walking downtown by myself with all of the vagrants and panhandlers! One dude even followed me for a good 10 seconds. Downtown itself was pretty cool but nothing super special.

And you're spot on about neighborhood parking. It's horrendous. People are so territorial and will not hesitate to hit or scratch your car if you're in "their" spot. It's bumper to bumper. The zoning rules are just atrocious, having to move your car once every so often even if you're not using it. I would NOT own a car in the hotspots. I rented a car for a few days and I would not have wanted it for a second later.

mabinogi

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #40 on: April 23, 2015, 07:36:03 PM »


My next step is rural Idaho.

Oof. I just moved from Seattle to southeast Idaho (not quite rural, though - Idaho Falls) in August and I have to say, I think you're crazy. ;) Sure, the cost of living here is hard to beat, but DH and I miss just about everything else about Seattle. Idaho Falls bills itself as the "gateway to the Tetons" but it's almost a two-hour drive to get there. It's hard to build community if you're not part of the dominant demographic here (read: LDS), so our social lives have nosedived since moving here. We're hoping to only be here a couple of years. Would love to move back to Seattle, but doubtful the opportunity will arise. We really, really loved it there.

Noodle

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #41 on: April 23, 2015, 08:05:34 PM »

Unfortunately the buildings that are going up are made of cheap materials with poor architecture. The kind of buildings that we will look at in 10-20 years (if not now) and say "WHY?", or "OMG that is so 2010s".
 

Yes. The interesting (?) Nouveau Seattle architecture. I haven't made my mind up about it yet. I lived 10 years in the gothic South, and the Seattle designs are pretty jarring. At one point the realtor showed me a house with corrugated metal walls joined with shackles and turnbuckles. I summarily rejected it, but I'll probably assimilate the style eventually.

Yes, Seattle definitely has a different look in its new construction than a lot of other places I have lived. However, it also has some amazing historic terra cotta architecture downtown due to the clay pits that used to be down in the Auburn area. (Look up for the best details). Check out the Arctic Club. It has walruses! (And the restored interior is fantastic...the hotel's bar is inside and you can sit and have a drink and admire.) If you like architecture, you should definitely check out the Seattle Architecture Foundation's walking tours. They charge a small fee but the tours are all done by volunteers, a lot of whom are architecture students etc. Seattle has lost a lot, but there are some amazing things remaining.

Syonyk

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #42 on: April 23, 2015, 08:11:19 PM »
...and I have to say, I think you're crazy. ;)

That's fine. Paying obscene rents to live somewhere my wife and I simply don't like is pretty crazy to us. A desert research lab is much more my style. And we've got family in Idaho where we're moving.

PawPrint53

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #43 on: April 23, 2015, 08:32:20 PM »
Quote

I'm quite aware of where I'm moving. I consider it a huge improvement.


We moved from Idaho to Seattle two years ago for a job. I grew up in Seattle, but it's changed tremendously in 40+ years. There was only one Starbuck's and it only sold coffee beans. :-) As a city, I think it's beautiful--the gardens, the water, the parks, the mountains, the neighborhoods. But the traffic is terrible, although I walk or ride the bus, and the COL is so high. The rain doesn't bother me because I just put on rain gear.

But I'm pretty tired of living in an urban area so we're moving back to Idaho where we own a house and where two of our kids live. Our retirement money will go further there for sure. Idaho has its own beauty, and we enjoy saying hello as we pass strangers on the Greenbelt in Boise, something you just don't do in the big city. No place is perfect. For me, the weather in Idaho (extreme heat in summer and pretty cold in winter--I hate snow) is an issue as well as the politics. But the good outweighs the bad do I'm looking forward to getting back.

mabinogi

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #44 on: April 24, 2015, 08:25:38 AM »
...and I have to say, I think you're crazy. ;)

That's fine. Paying obscene rents to live somewhere my wife and I simply don't like is pretty crazy to us. A desert research lab is much more my style. And we've got family in Idaho where we're moving.

Fair enough. :) I didn't mean any offense, I was just joking. We are flukes in that our cost of living went UP when we moved to Idaho. That is mostly because we had an insanely good deal on rent ($1200 for a 2-bedroom house in the Matthews Beach neighborhood...our landlord apparently didn't do much research on market rent), and we were able to live comfortably with one car. IF has a very limited rental market, and there was very little available during our 2-day house-hunting visit, so we're actually paying MORE in rent here than we were in Seattle. And we got a second car, since there's no public transportation and it's not nearly as bike-friendly.

Quote


But I'm pretty tired of living in an urban area so we're moving back to Idaho where we own a house and where two of our kids live. Our retirement money will go further there for sure. Idaho has its own beauty, and we enjoy saying hello as we pass strangers on the Greenbelt in Boise, something you just don't do in the big city. No place is perfect. For me, the weather in Idaho (extreme heat in summer and pretty cold in winter--I hate snow) is an issue as well as the politics. But the good outweighs the bad do I'm looking forward to getting back.

I do like Boise. My mom lives there now and I think it's a really nice city. I could definitely see us living there and being happy. Too bad INL isn't in Boise!

Good luck to both of you on your moves back to Idaho!

And, OP, sorry to hijack your thread! Congrats on your upcoming move to Seattle! I love it there, and I hope you will too. Don't be scared off by talk of the "Seattle freeze" (if you've heard of it). I didn't find it to be a problem at all. We made friends easily in Seattle. It's such a diverse city that you'll have no problem finding your people. It looks as though you've already gotten some good answers to your questions, but here is my input:

1. Groceries: if you don't mind bussing it to Lake City, I'd start out "big" grocery shopping days at Grocery Outlet. You never know what you'll find there, so don't expect to do all your shopping there, but it is dirt cheap. For produce, it's hard to beat Rising Sun in the Ravenna neighborhood. After that, Safeway and Trader Joe's are probably your best bet for cheap groceries in the U-District. I thought the nearby QFC had the greatest quality of food, but it is more expensive.

2&3 - No idea, sorry.

4. Biking to work - you don't need anything too high-tech. Fenders are good, but otherwise you just need a cheap rain jacket and rain pants. And waterproof panniers, which you can probably find used pretty easily.

5. Like I said above, Seattle is a really diverse city. I think almost half the population of the city is from elsewhere, so you'll find your people. I never became a coffee-drinker while living there, OR an IPA-drinker. :) I don't even recall buying any more fleece than I already owned! 


zoltani

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #45 on: April 24, 2015, 12:26:02 PM »

Shropskr

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #46 on: April 25, 2015, 12:49:43 AM »
I'd suggest water proof panniers for you bike.  Also headlight and tail light were well above the 45th parallel it gets dark early in winter.  IKEA sell check yellow safety vests too.

I second Macphersons on beacon hill they rock as a fruit/vegetable stand.  Often three cloth bags full of stuff under 20 bucks.  And yes you can even get organics sometimes there too. 

The Seattle freeze is real.  It takes people time sometimes a lot of time to warm up to new people here just be aware.


Remember there are 2 bases just a ferry ride away.  Bremerton and Bangor both Navy.  Your not alone.

Good luck.

jooles

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Re: Solicitation...of advice about Seattle
« Reply #47 on: April 29, 2015, 05:18:22 PM »
Truth about Seattle - more sunglasses are purchased here than in Los Angeles.  We don't get more sun, we're just less tolerant of it.  Also, fewer umbrellas are sold here than in Los Angeles.  Same, same - LA doesn't get more rain than Seattle, they're just less tolerant of it when they do get it.