Might buy a 2001 f-150

[Vic99]

Going to see a 4x4 2001extended cab f-150 tomorrow . . .  have not seen it yet.

165k miles, says its engine is solid.  Serious scratches all along side.  Wants $2,600, but said is willing to negoitiate because seems to have rust underneath.  Not sure if ever in accident, but says will give me serial # so I can run a check.  Says never carried a plow.  Says needs a tire rod but he will fix that before he sells it.

I plan to use this truck 1-2k miles/year.  Using primarily for firewood hauling, snow, and some construction in that order.  Not a primary vehicle.


1) What else would you ask?

2) What have you actually done to broker taking it your own mechanic for a once over?  I want to do this.  Seller, however,  is actually is a mechanic.

[Xlar]

... 1) What else would you ask?

2) What have you actually done to broker taking it your own mechanic for a once over?  I want to do this.  Seller, however,  is actually is a mechanic.

I would say that you either want them to take the car for a PPI (Pre-Purchase Inspection) or for them to let you take it. If they refuse this is a huge red flag and I would walk away.

I think that them being a mechanic is actually a negative as it means it is easier for them to hide issues that you wouldn't find until after you buy it.

Here's a reasonable list of things to do when buying used: http://jalopnik.com/ten-steps-for-buying-a-used-car-without-getting-screwed-786640612

[fishnfool]

Needs a tie rod? Check for any other damage under there if it's been off road, 4x4 usually has. Look for cracks in frame etc. High milage and overall condition from the sound of this truck, I'd be offering closer to $16-1800.

[TheBeardedIrishman]

I have bought and sold trucks for years asking to take it to a mechanic is going to upset him bc a lot of ppl don't want some guy picking over the truck esp if he is not there. . Plus mechanic get paid to FIX things so they are going to tell you everything  that is POSSIBLY  wrong with the truck . .the truck is priced below 3000 SO THE SELLING is probably not going to mess around with someone wanting to put him thru the ringer esp during tax season when he knows he can sell it . . My advice would be to take a mechanic whom you might have a relationship  with to the truck and have him look over it then . . Also if your looking for a wood hauling truck I would look for a 1992 thru 1996 f150 the 5.0 AND 4.9 L engines are legendary  and you can pick them up for under  1000  may have rust whatnot but it will do the work you need

[chemistk]

Consider that any major repairs that may need to be done down the road may very easily cost more than what you paid for the truck. Given that you're going to be pretty abusive to it when you use it, I wouldn't worry about going to a mechanic to see what needs to be done. Like other said, you might get an earful about what the truck might need, not what it needs to keep it going.

All this being said, the KBB value for that truck (in fair condition, mind you) is in the neighborhood of $3500. If he's pricing it that low, you'll seriously want to pick it over with a fine toothed comb. The rust could be worse than what you see or there could be frame damage. If you run the carfax, you'll probably not see any red flags since it's more than likely he's been the one who has taken care of the maintenance for the truck's life.

Here's a craigslist ad from your area (ish) showing what you should be looking for in an early 00's f150:

https://boston.craigslist.org/nwb/cto/5444111844.html

When you go to see the truck, or if you've seen it, it's your call. Like I said, I would not take it to a mechanic because you're not going to use it as a daily driver. To get your value, I would anticipate doing just the minimum to keep it on the road and to shoot for doing those repairs yourself (great opportunity to learn a new skill!). When you drive it with him, drive it hard. If there aren't any creaks, bends, or funny noises from the frame, and if the engine and transmission seem to be working properly, then offer him less than he's asking.

[Vic99]

Thanks for all the advice.

Truck seemed ok, but I wanted my mechanic to look at it.

However, seller let the registration expire and it is a hassle to get it towed to my mechanic since my state does not issue temporary plates.

I passed on the truck.

[WSUCoug1994]

High mileage, lots of scratches and bad tie rod likely means this has been hammered off road.  Just something to consider.

[RWD]

The 2001 F-150 was particularly bad in crash tests
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Wb66PzljP8

[Vic99]

Good to know. 

I hope to find something soon.  F-150 or Toyota Tacoma are the preferred, but I will consider others.  A trusted mecchanic is also looking for me, but hassn't spotted anything in my price range < $8k that is solid except for an F-350 a month ago.  That was too much truck for me.

[MrFrugalChicago]

Good to know. 

I hope to find something soon.  F-150 or Toyota Tacoma are the preferred, but I will consider others.  A trusted mecchanic is also looking for me, but hassn't spotted anything in my price range < $8k that is solid except for an F-350 a month ago.  That was too much truck for me.

If you use it 1k miles a year, who cares?

So say you go from 20 to 15 MPG.  16 gallons of gas difference, or about $32 at current gas prices.

The big win is to drive little. If you only drive a tiny bit, maybe a giant truck isn't terrible?  When I buy furniture, sometimes I need to pay a $50 delivery fee. Giant truck, could do myself. Do it 1 time a year and I just paid for the giant truck.

[Syonyk]

The 2001 F-150 was particularly bad in crash tests

Sure.  But if he's not driving it much, that doesn't matter that much.  Law of probability and all that.

A trusted mecchanic is also looking for me, but hassn't spotted anything in my price range < $8k that is solid except for an F-350 a month ago.  That was too much truck for me.

F350s can be quite pricey to maintain.  They've got large, heavy, overbuilt parts, and you pay for it.  I swear every time I buy parts for mine at NAPA, they apologize for how expensive the bill is.

I like mine, but I use it for truck-ish things, and intend to tow a 5th wheel all around the country in the next years as my daughter gets a bit older.  It's not a cheap vehicle to maintain, though, and I'd run from a cheap one.  It's being sold cheap for a reason.

[RWD]

The 2001 F-150 was particularly bad in crash tests

Sure.  But if he's not driving it much, that doesn't matter that much.  Law of probability and all that.

But why not buy a safer similar year truck for the same price? It's not like all 2001 trucks are unsafe; the F-150 just happened to be exceptionally horrible.

[Purple Economist]

Good to know. 

I hope to find something soon.  F-150 or Toyota Tacoma are the preferred, but I will consider others.  A trusted mecchanic is also looking for me, but hassn't spotted anything in my price range < $8k that is solid except for an F-350 a month ago.  That was too much truck for me.

What are your parameters on buying a truck?  If you are willing to spend $8,000, you should be able to get something good all day, every day.  One of the keys for me in buying vehicles is to be willing to travel.  On the last two trucks I bought, I traveled at least 3 hours one way to get them.  One of the trucks was a 2007 Toyota Tundra I bought in August of 2013 for $15,000.  I sold it in December of 2014 for $16,000.  The truck I just bought was a 1996 Ford F-250 in outstanding condition.  It is an XLT, extended cab, long bed, 460 engine (7.5L V8 gas), has a topper and it has 108,000 miles on it.  I paid $8400 for it and plan on driving it for years.  I doubt I'll increase the average yearly miles on it.  I searched for this truck for over a year (because I wanted a 1995 - 1997 F-250 in outstanding condition) and had to drive to Omaha to get it (from Manhattan, KS).