Author Topic: Life in the Pacific Northwest  (Read 21017 times)

wildbeast

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Life in the Pacific Northwest
« on: March 03, 2018, 10:33:36 AM »
Dh and I always planned to stay here in the SF Bay Area indefinitely.  This has always been home and we hoped to retire here.  Recently, we've been talking about possibly retiring in Oregon.  It is getting increasingly expensive here and the housing shortage is pushing lots more dense housing into our city, which is the most affordable in the bay. 

Oregon has come up as a possible home for retirement.  I know there's lots of folks here from the PNW and I'm hoping to get some feedback on what life is like in the beautiful and wet parts our country.  Dh and I both love rain, nature, trees, etc.  So that's a big plus.  The clean air would be a welcome change from the California drought, dust, and smog.  My biggest concern is the lack of sunlight.  I do struggle with SAD and am worried how this might be affected.  The second biggest concern is lack of ethnic diversity.  Dh and I are both immigrants and we are a racially mixed couple and we don't want to feel unwelcome in our new home.  Our ideal place would be a smaller town (for affordability), though we realize that could mean a bit less diversity. 

I would love to hear from anyone who lives or has lived in the PNW and your experiences of life there.  If you struggle with SAD (winter blues), are in a racially mixed couple, or are a person of color, I would be especially interested in your experiences.
« Last Edit: March 03, 2018, 01:25:32 PM by jane x »

Noodle

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #1 on: March 03, 2018, 02:16:39 PM »
That could be tough. The West Side would be somewhat more friendly culturally, but it's pretty gray October-May. My dad has SAD too and that is one reason my folks choose to live on the East Side, which is much sunnier (it's also better for Mom's arthritis). Washington and Oregon east of the Cascades do have a pretty good-sized Latino population, but there's definitely not the conscious attention to diversity that you will find around Seattle, Portland, or Eugene.

Kay-Ell

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #2 on: March 03, 2018, 04:31:35 PM »
I’m interested to hear people’s experiences too. Considering a move to the PNW sometime in the next 5 years or so.

RedmondStash

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #3 on: March 03, 2018, 05:40:55 PM »
We live in Seattle. SAD is definitely an issue in the PNW, as is vitamin D deficiency, although the latter can be treated with supplements. Lots of people break out light boxes for the winter months. Days do feel really short and bleak from November through January. But everything's a trade-off.

I'm not sure how diverse Oregon is, but the Seattle area feels simultaneously homogeneous and diverse depending on where you are. Microsoft hires a lot of people from other countries, and there are pockets of people from various parts of the world all over the place. It's not rare to drive down the street and see women and girls with head scarves, people wearing Indian dress -- India Indian, not Native American -- and even sometimes full burkas. You also hear a lot of different languages spoken in grocery stores. But some of the suburbs are pretty unrelentingly pale, especially on the east side, meaning east of Lake Washington, not the eastern part of the state.

Funny, spouse & I are both sort of racially mixed, but we both look white, and since that's how people treat us, I can't speak to that directly. I do have some Asian friends who've noticed a marked uptick in racist harassment in the past year or so, but that seems to be true across the country.

I can tell you that Seattle isn't exactly a friendly city; the Seattle Freeze is a real thing. It can be hard to get to know people. Not sure if that culture extends to Oregon too.

Good luck with your decision.

Bracken_Joy

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #4 on: March 03, 2018, 05:55:17 PM »
Born and raised Oregonian here. If you have questions about specific cities/towns, feel free to ask. I'm related to most of the state, so I've spent extensive time pretty much everywhere =P That said, I don't share my specific location (beyond the Willamette Valley) on the forums, so I'll probably reply by PM.

Re: the gray. It is no joke. It really is that grey, and that depressing. It starts to weigh on you. Most people I know here are on vitamin D, many people own "mood lights", and even still people tend to get pretty surly in the winter.

Re: the diversity. Oregon is not diverse. Period. We dealt with the slavery issue by making it illegal to be a black person in the state. That is not a joke. Eugene is named after a KKK leader (Eugene Skinner). That being said, it's not like there's a ton of entrenched racism, more just entrenched racial ignorance, if that makes sense. I think Oregon has something like 2.5% african american residents? And most live in Portland. Here's some demographic data: http://www.oregonlive.com/pacific-northwest-news/index.ssf/2011/02/census_2010_more_on_oregons_racial_and_ethnic_diversity.html It is WHITE, no joke. Especially any towns besides Portland, Eugene, or Salem? Pretty much 90%+ white.

Re: RedmondStash's question about the "seattle freeze" extending here. In my experience, it does NOT. People are overly friendly if anything. It weirded out my Midwestern roommate to no end =)

koshtra

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #5 on: March 03, 2018, 06:35:55 PM »
Oregon native: grew up in Eugene & Springfield, now in Portland.

The light. Yeah. People think the rain is the problem, but actually the rain is pretty friendly, it just pitter-patters down a lot, you throw on a jacket and ignore it. But the dark really bothers some people who move here.

However -- the sun is usually just a couple hours away. Drive over the mountains (if the passes are open) and you're in the high desert. Totally different climate, and usually sunwashed.

The racism here is usually of the genteel exasperating "what racism"? sort. The only reasonably diverse part of the state are some of the Portland suburbs -- the east edge of Portland (where I live) has a nice mix, and Hillsboro has a large Hispanic population. But it some parts of the state not being white is just... always there. The racism gets exaggerated some and it gets played down some. You should just come up and see how it lands with you, really.

Oregonians are shy. Friendly and courteous but really pretty reserved and timid. You'll make friends with other newcomers faster than you will with us natives. The unassertiveness comes off as passive-aggressive to some people, but I think that's a misunderstanding. But in any case it means that you have to do the heavy lifting to establish friendships. It won't just happen. By default, the neighbors you have a friendly chat with the day you move in, you'll be having exactly the same friendly chat with twenty years later.

It's breathtakingly beautiful. I love it here: I've lived a fair number of other places, but no place that's ever tempted me away.

Bracken_Joy

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #6 on: March 03, 2018, 07:48:44 PM »
Oregon native: grew up in Eugene & Springfield, now in Portland.

The light. Yeah. People think the rain is the problem, but actually the rain is pretty friendly, it just pitter-patters down a lot, you throw on a jacket and ignore it. But the dark really bothers some people who move here.

However -- the sun is usually just a couple hours away. Drive over the mountains (if the passes are open) and you're in the high desert. Totally different climate, and usually sunwashed.

The racism here is usually of the genteel exasperating "what racism"? sort. The only reasonably diverse part of the state are some of the Portland suburbs -- the east edge of Portland (where I live) has a nice mix, and Hillsboro has a large Hispanic population. But it some parts of the state not being white is just... always there. The racism gets exaggerated some and it gets played down some. You should just come up and see how it lands with you, really.

Oregonians are shy. Friendly and courteous but really pretty reserved and timid. You'll make friends with other newcomers faster than you will with us natives. The unassertiveness comes off as passive-aggressive to some people, but I think that's a misunderstanding. But in any case it means that you have to do the heavy lifting to establish friendships. It won't just happen. By default, the neighbors you have a friendly chat with the day you move in, you'll be having exactly the same friendly chat with twenty years later.

It's breathtakingly beautiful. I love it here: I've lived a fair number of other places, but no place that's ever tempted me away.

Okay, I actually laughed out loud at that. Yep, that's pretty damn accurate. People will certainly be friendly, and if you pursue friendship it can happen, but they don't just fall into place by any means. It takes a while.

And the rain. Yep. It's not too bad. You can still do most everything year round, so long as you don't mind a little mud and drizzle. It's the grey that gets to people though more than anything. Not cabin fever.

big_slacker

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #7 on: March 03, 2018, 10:28:55 PM »
But some of the suburbs are pretty unrelentingly pale, especially on the east side, meaning east of Lake Washington, not the eastern part of the state

Agree that it varies burb to burb. Bellevue and Redmond are 50% non-white, maybe more at this point. And it's totally normal to see a sari, burka, hijab or north face puffy. Kirkland and Issy are 70% white. In general city folk are inclusive as long as you fit in their cliquey culture, which isn't based on race.

In terms of weather I moved here from tahoe, and got damn the winters bum me out. I mean I'm out mountain biking and snowboarding all winter, eat well, meditate, stay healthy, socialize, etc. But it still bums me out. Sun comes out in spring/summer and it's f*cking awesome here. But you gotta suffer through the winter for sure. Don't downplay the effect the weather will have on you. I've been here 7 years and just bought a house, so I obviously like it, but you gotta have a plan and a good attitude for the gloomy season.


PNW Lady

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #8 on: March 04, 2018, 02:22:33 PM »
Portland, Oregon is horrible, just horrible. You definitely don’t want to live here. Maybe try up north a bit;-P

Telecaster

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #9 on: March 04, 2018, 02:39:45 PM »
I personally don't have much issue with the winter, I think rain and dark is easier to manage than cold and snow.  Like koshtra says, it rains a lot but it seldom rains hard, and it seldom gets below freezing.  My next door neighbor goes kayaking about 3-4 times a week in the winter, he just throws on a jacket and hat and goes.   Similarly, things like biking to work or walking to the store are things you can do all year round. 

And the summers are unreal.  The wife and I go on vacation in the winter, because there's no better place than the PNW in the summer. 


MJseast

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #10 on: March 04, 2018, 03:45:21 PM »
PTF. Wonder if anyone here does the rental snowbird thing in the PNW rather than own. Say rent 6 months spring thru fall and than go somewhere else the other 6 months and rent there? Probably doable for single kidless minimalist FIRE types like me but not families.

I'm sure you could do that, but it could be pricey, at least here in Seattle. Everyone wants to be here in the summer because it really is spectacular. So prices for rentals go up for short-term rentals in the summer. It works well if you own and want to rent out your place though, as you can still find renters for winter, just not for as much money.

big_slacker

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #11 on: March 04, 2018, 04:40:36 PM »
PTF. Wonder if anyone here does the rental snowbird thing in the PNW rather than own. Say rent 6 months spring thru fall and than go somewhere else the other 6 months and rent there? Probably doable for single kidless minimalist FIRE types like me but not families.

I'm sure you could do that, but it could be pricey, at least here in Seattle. Everyone wants to be here in the summer because it really is spectacular. So prices for rentals go up for short-term rentals in the summer. It works well if you own and want to rent out your place though, as you can still find renters for winter, just not for as much money.
I probably wouldn't stay in Seattle but I agree that short term rentals seem expensive in western WA after a quick look but doable for me I think as I can go anywhere and just need a studio or one bedroom. But many seem to go from low monthly rates off season to super expensive weekly rates during summer. Maybe a  spring and fall thing would work and travel in.the high season somewhere cheaper.

ETA not looking to buy anywhere at this time but would like to combine van camping yravel with longer term stays in different places. The PNW is top on that list.

Head out east towards the mountains and it gets a LOT cheaper. Van camping, there are plots of land with electric to the street for $50-$100k in gorgeous spots. Buy one, occupy it during summers and head somewhere warmer (vegas?) for the winter.

albijaji

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #12 on: March 04, 2018, 10:02:57 PM »
I am in the minority if I say i am not a fan- don't hate on me Oregonians of the world.
We moved to  OR for work, ( city 45 min outside portland) before that  we lived in southeren california  and bay area (15 years)
i am on my 3rd winter here in oregon...
i thought ok first winter really bad, put your big girl panties on get through it - people telling me second or third will be better and i will LOVE it..
nope. I come from southern germany and know about cold winters, that's not the problem, its the constant rain and darkness,
its depressing (even my 16 year old who declared his love for oregon in the first year is fed up with it by now!!!)
We cannot wait to get back
to california even so its overcrowded and expensive..
i also lived in big cities in california and have to say i had way more contact/friends  with neighbors
than here in the subs.its very superficial (i know they say that about californians, my experience is different)

I would try the snowbird thing first if i were you ,  if that is a possiblity
try it out,
 we decided after a camping trip in the middle of summer, big mistake, we should have come in january also, to better
assess the whole situation.


ETA its not all bad
the schools are exceptional where we live, as in fantastic
gas is cheaper
food is cheaper
no sales tax
less people, and it seems people actually know how to drive cars!! its a shocking mindblowing experience
less pollution
houses are cheaper than in california
« Last Edit: March 04, 2018, 11:04:50 PM by albijaji »

PDXTabs

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #13 on: March 04, 2018, 10:15:46 PM »
I would love to hear from anyone who lives or has lived in the PNW and your experiences of life there.  If you struggle with SAD (winter blues), are in a racially mixed couple, or are a person of color, I would be especially interested in your experiences.

I was born in, and have spent most of my life in the PNW. I am not a person of color or in a mixed race relationship, but I have family from multiple races all over the planet, and I suffer from SAD.

I would not recommend the PNW, especially in a small(er) town:
  • It's not that cheap, compared to many parts of the world.
  • There are some latinos, but not many other people of color, especially outside of the major population centers.
  • Seattle and Portland are getting very expensive. Eugene is less so, and has many welcoming souls, but plenty more who aren't all that welcoming.
  • The SAD Is bad. Seriously, I'm counting the years until my kids are grown and I can leave.
  • There are many less expensive places with more sun and more diversity. Have you thought about southern Europe?

EDTIed to add - I do have black family that moved into the PNW as part of the great migration. They have made a good life for themselves, but they moved here many decades ago when the world and the PNW were a different place. One of them was feloniously attacked by white supremacists in Seattle city limits (not to say that couldn't happen anywhere, unfortunately).
« Last Edit: March 05, 2018, 08:41:04 AM by PDXTabs »

Glenstache

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #14 on: March 05, 2018, 06:24:32 PM »
This seems as good a time as any to ask @Glenstache to post more cabin porn photos of his cabin, which is just east of the Cascades in a climate that would probably suit you, @spartana

Photo is the view from the ski area 30 min from cabin on Saturday. Does that fulfill the request? :)

I absolutely love the PNW and moved up here from the Bay Area in 1999. I love the evergreens everywhere, access to mountains and sound, and all the fun outdoor activities that are available. There is a great diversity in climates to be experienced in the PNW from arid desert to more rain than you can imagine (inches of rain in a day is not uncommon out on the coasts). Generally, west of the Cascade range crest SAD is an issue. East of the range crest the climate is drier and warmer/colder depending on if it is summer/winter. There are spots just east of the Cascades that get 7 inches of rain a year. Cost of living can be quite high, depending on what area you choose to live in.

From what you mentioned above, some places to look at might be: Ashland/Medford, OR; Redmond, OR; Wenatchee, WA; or Portland if you want more city access (it is a quick drive out the Columbia River gorge to get into dry climate and sunshine in winter.

big_slacker

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #15 on: March 05, 2018, 08:18:52 PM »
From what you mentioned above, some places to look at might be: Ashland/Medford, OR; Redmond, OR; Wenatchee, WA; or Portland if you want more city access (it is a quick drive out the Columbia River gorge to get into dry climate and sunshine in winter.

What resort is that? Did you get up this weekend? It was dumping at snoqualmie, nice fresh but poor visibility. We were on dawn patrol at Hyak, good time till all the Seattle people showed up, we got out by 11 when it started getting packed. Just in time, 90 eastbound got closed due to wrecks and they closed westbound right after we got through. :(

One thing to bring up is the OP said affordable. Now it's hard to say what that means but you mentioned Redmond. I looked at a house recently there near the MSFT campus. It was listed at $650k. This was a 1300 sq ft rambler. Got a pre-inspection because unless you are a cash offer or waive contingencies you won't get the house. Needed a roof ASAP, leaks under both bathroom floors, rats, electrical not to code, rotting beams under the deck. This was in addition to everything on the inside just being old and from the 70's. There were 58 real estate agent cards on the dining room table and my agent said if we wanted it we'd need to have an escalation clause in our offer that went well above $700k. That's a long winded way of saying nowhere on the Eastside is affordable anymore.

Portland isn't there yet, you can still get cute little houses in decent neighborhoods for under $400k. There are a lot of grimy hipsters around too, whether you like that or not I guess is up to you.

Roland of Gilead

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #16 on: March 05, 2018, 08:36:33 PM »
Check out Sequim.   It is in a rain shadow and gets much more sun than most of western Washington.

sol

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #17 on: March 05, 2018, 08:47:02 PM »
It sucks.  Definitely don't move here.  It rains all the time, plus there are ex-Californians under every rock.

pdxbator

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #18 on: March 05, 2018, 09:20:02 PM »
Portland is getting more and more crowded. After being here for 20 years it isn't feeling as much like home. Eventually I'll be doing the snow bird thing. Having grown up in Colorado where we had 300 days of sunshine a year, Oregon has been tough. It is is lovely with green grass and tall trees and ferns, but the endless days of gray can be awfully depressing. I got a SAD light this year and I think it is helping some.

Paul der Krake

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #19 on: March 05, 2018, 11:29:28 PM »
It sucks.  Definitely don't move here.  It rains all the time, plus there are ex-Californians under every rock.
Full of immigrants, tech workers, and too close to Canada. Hard pass.

Meowmalade

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #20 on: March 05, 2018, 11:30:03 PM »
We're a mixed-race couple (Indian & Chinese) living in Portland, and I have SAD.  I actually resisted moving here for a long time ("I'll die of depression!"), but now I love it here!  We were in Austin for 6 years and have now been here for 6.5 years.  I feel like Austin had these oppressive dark clouds in the winter that felt heavy and very depressing, whereas here it's a light, airy grey.  It makes a difference for me.  Also, it's grey but it's not like that for solid weeks at a time-- there are often breaks in the afternoon where blue skies peek through for a bit.  The beautiful greenery also helps.  I think I have such low expectations that it makes things better, though-- last year people were complaining a ton but I felt okay.

That said, I have a 400 watt dawn simulator which helps me to wake up, and we try to have bright lights in the house.  A few years ago I was diagnosed with the second-lowest Vitamin D levels my doctor had ever seen-- I take pills now (when I remember to).  My bigger complaint is not actually about the grey, but I suffer from mold allergies and that can get pretty bad every winter.  If you love sunshine all the time, I don't think the PNW would be for you, but I'm really shocked that it hasn't bothered me much at all since we moved here.

Urchina

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #21 on: March 06, 2018, 12:51:52 AM »
I grew up in Oregon's Willamette Valley and now live in coastal SoCal. If you're really interested, I recommend renting an apartment or house for a month in February in the area you are interested in and staying. For.The.Whole.Month.

February is rough.

Then imagine 8 of those in a row.

You'll have a better idea of whether or not it's a good fit.


effigy98

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #22 on: March 06, 2018, 01:16:38 AM »
Near Seattle and I love/hate it. Planning on FIRE somewhere tropical in a few years.

The area has money pooring from the sky if you know how to code well. You can have 3+ jobs at the same time making half a million dollars if you are willing to put in the effort just coding or one high level position if you love office politics and/or selling yourself. All the non tech people complain a lot as they are getting pushed out of the area due to high housing costs.

The area is VERY beautiful. There are many days I just stare at the mountains (there are many of them) with the clouds half covering and after several decades am still in awe. During the summer is it probably one of the nicest places on earth and there is every climate you can go to within short drives and basically experience every outdoor activity known to humans.

Weather is depressing half the year (or more) and I mean super depressing. People have been known to blow their heads off with shotguns. A month can go by and I never set foot outside a single time (garage to parking garage) because the cold rain sucks. I used to bike in the winter and with the right gear that was fun, but there are so many distracted drivers you will eventually get run over and hospitalized, espeically with the huge influx of new drivers who have their first car ever and the super important text messages people need to read because their life is much more important then yours.

Alergy season (late spring, half of summer) is enough to make you want to cut out your eyeballs to aliviate the pain while there is  massive tree and grass sperm everywhere.

No income tax!!! There is high sales tax but it is a regressive consumption tax which benefits savers a lot. Politicians are always trying to change this now, but keep failing at it because there are too many smart voters that are not falling for the lies saying it is good for everyone.

If you are low income it is HANDOUT craziness! The amount of free healtcare, lunches, housing vouchers, free college, etc is amazing. Growing up my family had access to a lot of help which can keep the crime down compared to other states. One benefit I really hate is we also have safe injection sites if you want to get hooked on those type of drugs to reduce the needles on the sidewalks and parks. You can even get free needles which can save you a lot of money. Very few laws are actually inforced here except maybe domestic violence and drunk driving, but shooting up is perfectly acceptable and pot is legal here so many people are more relaxed, but we have a major homeless crises. There are tents and RVs that do not run lining the streets everywhere, no exageration, it is beyond crazy.

Traffic... well it's really just a very slow moving parking lot, something like leaving a stadium after a crowded game, but everyone is pissed off instead of drunk and in a hurry, and it's like that every single day. 10 miles can take you over an hour of stop and go and pissed off people everywhere in a rush but cannot move. There are days it hurts to get out of the car since you have been sitting so long because some days my 10 mile commute can take 2+ hours with no obvious causes. You start to hate humanity and the politicians incompetance to fix the problems. You may find yourself fantasizing putting a bulldozer blade on the front of your car and push everyone out of the way, or some laser that can vaporize the traffic in front of you so you can get home sooner and tomamrow will be better with most of those people burned off the earth (those 5 people should have not cut you off, fuckers!). You also find yourself running red lights because it may be 10+ minutes before you get another chance to get thru one again since everyone else is running the same lights from the other direction and block the intersection. Some days it is faster to walk (like the walker in office space) and almost always faster to bike which is great, but again, you will eventually be hospitalized by one of those commuters that thinks their time is much more valuable then your legs (or life). Eventually you even get jealous of the bikers because they are passing you but at the same time, you feel sorry for them as you know it's only a matter of time before they are under a car and nobody goes to jail for driving over you like a dead possum that happened to run across the road in front of your car. The bus system is equally impressive, the schedules are constantly missed, full, smell, suck, and well... not fun. If you work for a big tech firm, however, you can ride in a very fancy bus that has a full time internet connection, comfortable, and awesome and at least get some sleep. They even have bike racks on the front so you can mix your commute. The only problem with them is they are usually full and you need to reserve your space months in advance.
« Last Edit: March 06, 2018, 01:49:30 AM by effigy98 »

big_slacker

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #23 on: March 06, 2018, 07:42:35 AM »
Bellevue is particularly bad now price-wise because the schools are the best in the region -- China money is driving things up quickly (they also have a Mandarin immersion program that is a big draw).  Anything in Issaquah/Northshore districts is similar.  Things get a bit more affordable as you move east, but the schools suffer in comparison -- I grew up in Snoqualmie Valley District 410 and was shocked to hear a few years ago that the kind of discrimination and bullying that drove me and many of my friends out of the district in high school 30 years ago was still going on with no apparent correction being offered by district authorities.  I would not put my kids in Mt. Si given that kind of climate so moving back to the valley was a no go for us.

This is interesting to hear. There is also Duvall which is growing fast due to MSFT folks running away from the insane market. Carnation as well, although it's much smaller. The reviews on those schools seem more positive than Mt Si. I suspect these schools are going to be much better than they have been just due to demand and a major change in demographics. Techie parents won't stand for crappy schools for long. Home prices and associated taxes you would think would help budget issues.

sol

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #24 on: March 06, 2018, 08:45:18 AM »
February is rough.

February on the sound is my favorite winter month.

HPstache

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #25 on: March 06, 2018, 08:53:41 AM »
8 months of crappy weather is a bit of a stretch...  I would say 6 at most.  I've lived in the NW corner of the NW (Bellingham area) my whole life (less 4 years for college).  I never really noticed the affect of the long gray months on myself until I was an adult.  Both sides of my family live here, so it would be hard to leave, but I have often considered moving to Wenatchee or becoming a snowbird of sorts when I become FI.  Vitamin D supplements do seem to help.  I agree that the summers and early fall definitely make up for a lot of the gloominess... June-September is absolutely amazing.

Bracken_Joy

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #26 on: March 06, 2018, 09:05:08 AM »
February is rough.

February on the sound is my favorite winter month.

February a lot of times is when we get the "fake out", a week of GREAT weather, when everyone plants stuff and then it dies when it freezes again =P

I'd say, visit in November or January. Those are my least favorite ones. Cold AND dark. Get a taste of the gloom =)

vertkurt

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #27 on: March 06, 2018, 09:15:00 AM »
  Both sides of my family live here, so it would be hard to leave, but I have often considered moving to Wenatchee or becoming a snowbird of sorts when I become FI.

Lived in Wenatchee for a few years and even studied at the community college there before transferring to a 4 year. True 4 season city. Lots of snow and great access to skiing locally or in stevens pass every year. Not exactly PNW, but it was suggested earlier in the thread as well for areas you might enjoy.

Telecaster

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #28 on: March 06, 2018, 09:54:13 AM »
Weather is depressing half the year (or more) and I mean super depressing. People have been known to blow their heads off with shotguns. A month can go by and I never set foot outside a single time (garage to parking garage) because the cold rain sucks.

You are doing it wrong.  You need to be outside everyday, especially in the morning. 

Bracken_Joy

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #29 on: March 06, 2018, 09:56:39 AM »
Weather is depressing half the year (or more) and I mean super depressing. People have been known to blow their heads off with shotguns. A month can go by and I never set foot outside a single time (garage to parking garage) because the cold rain sucks.

You are doing it wrong.  You need to be outside everyday, especially in the morning.

At a minimum, sit right next to a window, especially in the morning. But yeah, a daily walk, even if it's just around the block, makes a world of difference!

Glenstache

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #30 on: March 06, 2018, 10:30:12 AM »
See the difference between Redmond OR and Redmond WA. I would not recommend the WA version.

I think many people complain about the Seattle winters as a form of recreation. The winters here are gray, for sure, but are mild and pleasant compared to almost anywhere in the northern plains or New England. I can go skiing and mountain biking in the same weekend here... no so much in Minnesota. Vitamin D deficiency is not as much of an issue if you just get outside. And that is the key to Seattle winters. Just go do stuff outside when there is a break in the weather or regardless of the weather. I think in part the winters seem grayer because the summers are so insanely good.

My cabin is at Lake Wenatchee, which is between the Cascade crest and the town of Leavenworth. I was skiing at Stevens Pass Sat and Sun (got in about 40k of vert over those two days and my legs feel a bit slow on the bike commute in today).

wildbeast

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #31 on: March 06, 2018, 10:46:34 AM »
I visited Seattle for a work conference many years ago - maybe 25? - and I didn't like it.  I liked the Pike's Place market area, but it was dark gray the whole time I was there and it rained a lot.  And the city was quite developed with lots of tall buildings, and many flagship retail stores!, so the impression for me was of a depressing urban oppressiveness.  By comparison, when I visited Brookings, OR, during a Memorial Day weekend, the impression was of a very lush and green place with very clean air and a relaxed and friendly environment.  Seattle did not feel friendly to me.  So I would be looking for something like Brookings. 
« Last Edit: March 06, 2018, 11:02:41 AM by jane x »

big_slacker

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #32 on: March 06, 2018, 10:52:08 AM »
I visited Seattle many years ago - maybe 25? - and I didn't like it.  I liked the Pike's Place market area, but it was dark gray the whole time I was there and it rained a lot.  And the city was quite developed with lots of tall buildings, and many flagship retail stores!, so the impression for me was of a depressing urban oppressiveness.  By comparison, when I visited Brookings, OR, during a Memorial Day weekend, the impression was of a very lush and green place with very clean air and a relaxed and friendly environment.  Seattle did not feel friendly to me.  So I would be looking for something like Brookings.

There is a lot more to WA than Seattle, see pics. I agree about the city BTW. Concrete jungle, too many people, downtown is overrun with homeless/panhandlers. Some of the neighborhoods outside downtown are ok but it's still VERY urban. Too bad you didn't go east on i90 and see Mercer Island, Bellevue, Issaquah, etc. Much more green, nicer towns

See the difference between Redmond OR and Redmond WA. I would not recommend the WA version.

I think many people complain about the Seattle winters as a form of recreation. The winters here are gray, for sure, but are mild and pleasant compared to almost anywhere in the northern plains or New England. I can go skiing and mountain biking in the same weekend here... no so much in Minnesota. Vitamin D deficiency is not as much of an issue if you just get outside. And that is the key to Seattle winters. Just go do stuff outside when there is a break in the weather or regardless of the weather. I think in part the winters seem grayer because the summers are so insanely good.

My cabin is at Lake Wenatchee, which is between the Cascade crest and the town of Leavenworth. I was skiing at Stevens Pass Sat and Sun (got in about 40k of vert over those two days and my legs feel a bit slow on the bike commute in today).

Haha, reading comprehension! Didn't see the OR. :)

Love lake Wenatchee. We camp in that area in the summer. Pic attached.

Half agree about winter weather and vitamin D. You gotta get outside. I'm a typical 'outdoor guy'. Bike 3-5 hours a week. Pass for snoqualmie/alpental and I'm up there once a week or more. Lake at one end of the block, forest trails at the other. Offroader/day camping/hiking with the kiddos. Being outside isn't my problem. I got tested due to dragging ass my second winter after I moved here and had really low vit D numbers. I supplement with pills and get an injection once a month or so because it's nearly free through my wife's work (med spa). I've been a lot better since supplementing and just like to bitch since I'm from tahoe and it's not tahoe. :D
« Last Edit: March 06, 2018, 11:00:51 AM by big_slacker »

wildbeast

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #33 on: March 06, 2018, 11:09:16 AM »
@bigslaker - I was there for a work conference so I didn't have much time to explore.  I had wanted to take one of the ferries out, but the weather was terrible so wasn't able to do that. I did get to experience a bit of the Seattle Freeze though.  One day I went to a restaurant that offered a nice brunch and when I told the host I would be eating alone, I was turned away.  He said that they didn't offer any solo seating.  I was shocked.  That has never happened to me before or since.  I had been having a very pleasant morning photographing the pier and that put a damper on my day as I was really looking forward to that brunch!   


Dh tested low on Vit D and we live in sunny CA but sometimes it's hard to get enough sun even here.  By the time you get home from a long day of work you're exhausted and just want to plop down on the couch or take a nap.  If we did move to Oregon or WA, dh could freelance and work at home (he likes working) and theoretically would have a lot more time available to get outside, and even overcast sun is better than no sun.  My fear is that if we don't leave the Bay Area, dh will never retire because he'll feel that cost of living being what it is here, we can never have enough money.  And I think that would be a shame for both of us.
« Last Edit: March 06, 2018, 11:18:58 AM by jane x »

Samuel

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #34 on: March 06, 2018, 11:22:36 AM »
I think many people complain about the Seattle winters as a form of recreation.

I agree with that. I'm a lifelong PNWn'er (late thirties now) and don't remember hearing nearly as much winter hate growing up as I hear now. I think some of it has to be related to the big influx of new residents, and perhaps social media's appetite for inanity.

Winter's only really bad for a couple months, when us working stiffs get to work before the sun rises and leave work after the sun sets. If you can get outside during the day its not terrible. And I'll take gray and drizzly over months of snow any day.



Telecaster

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #35 on: March 06, 2018, 04:05:48 PM »
There is a lot more to WA than Seattle, see pics. I agree about the city BTW. Concrete jungle, too many people, downtown is overrun with homeless/panhandlers. Some of the neighborhoods outside downtown are ok but it's still VERY urban. Too bad you didn't go east on i90 and see Mercer Island, Bellevue, Issaquah, etc. Much more green, nicer towns


There's a lot more to Seattle than Seattle, if that makes sense.  Downtown is as you'd expect a downtown big city to be, but I live in a quiet single-family neighborhood where kids play in the street, and I have keys to my neighbor's houses and vice versa.    I can see snow-capped mountains and garden year round.  It is like living in suburbia, but in the city. 

Issaquah at one time was an undiscovered gem...then it got discovered.  Kind of tragic how it turned out. 

Before I sound too much like a fanboy:  The traffic sucks.  So you have to live where you minimize your commute, otherwise you'll commit suicide.  And I consider myself very liberal.  But the politics around here are so hippy-dippy it makes we want to throttle the mayor and the entire city council.  They mean well, but they are so stupid it is maddening. 

wildbeast

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #36 on: March 06, 2018, 05:39:28 PM »
Does anyone have experience with some of the southern cities right by the California border - specifically Brookings and Gold Beach?  From what I've read that area seems to have a bit more sun and more mild weather in general.

I can see that the grey is the biggest challenge for most folks, so would need to go and spend some extended time there for sure before making a move.  I also suffer from rosacea so I can't be in the sun unless I have a big hat and sunblock, and even then, I have to be careful.   This is a bit challenging in a sunny and dry climate like where I am now.  Winter is my favorite season, in terms of being outside, although our winters here in the SF Bay Area are very mild and sunny compared to what you guys are describing.
I don't have a huge amount of experience with the southern Oregon towns but my brother use to live in Eureka, CA for years at it is very rainy there in winter so imagine OR coast is too. Plus they are small and somewhat isolated from larger towns/cities unlike the Valley towns have easy access to larger towns via I-5. Ashland is probably my favorite So. OR town but I like them all. Might be too hot for you in summer though as many places can get in the upper 80s and 90s fairly regularly.

As for WA someone mentioned Seqium above and I know lots of people have said its great. That area (From Port Angeles and Port Townsend to Gig Harbor) is an area I like a lot and "supposedly" less rain. I also really like Bellingham (favorite WA town but expensive) as well as Anacortes and surrounding area. Whitby Island is nice too with easy ferry access to ever where and seems less expensive.  One reason I prefer WA over OR is the access to many places via ferry.

What I didn't like about Ashland in researching it, is that the summers are hot and humid (I hate humid) and that there seems to be a homelessness problem. 

I too have a brother who used to live in Eureka and I visited once (I think in the summer) and it seemed more foggy and dark than my impression of Brookings.  Wait, he lived in Arcadia, which is very close to Eureka but nearer the ocean.  I think we did a lunch in Eureka and that was actually a nice little town and not as dark and wet feeling.  Right now having access to bigger towns doesn't feel that important to me, but that might change. 

Of course, if I was rich I could just move down to Carmel Valley and be happy as a clam!  Sadly, not rich.  :(

Roland of Gilead

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #37 on: March 06, 2018, 07:48:39 PM »
We were loading up gear on a sailboat we just purchased on Lake Union and the skies were sunny and the temp was 54 degrees...just a blue bird day.   A day like today and you might think Seattle is the best city on earth.

sol

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #38 on: March 06, 2018, 07:57:49 PM »
A day like today and you might think Seattle is the best city on earth.

Shut up, it rains all the time here.  No one goes outside, and SAD is a brutal and demoralizing danger to your well being.  No one should ever move here.  It's terrible.  Please go away, everyone.

sparkytheop

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #39 on: March 06, 2018, 09:49:43 PM »
A day like today and you might think Seattle is the best city on earth.

Shut up, it rains all the time here.  No one goes outside, and SAD is a brutal and demoralizing danger to your well being.  No one should ever move here.  It's terrible.  Please go away, everyone.
We're coming and bringing our day glow lime green spandex,  blonde hair and tans with us. We''ll complain about the weather continuously but never leave. Brahaha...Brahahahahaha...

That photo looks like Hood River in the summer...

I'm from a small town in Oregon.  I have property in an even smaller town in Washington.  When I first went up to look at the property, a lady drove up to talk to me.  She's lived on that road over 20 years and is still "new".  I'm a little more accepted since I'm not coming from that far away so I'm kind of "local".  But there are definitely towns here where you are never really considered "one of us" unless you were born and raised here.  And everyone agrees that Californians are the worst :P

wildbeast

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #40 on: March 06, 2018, 10:03:34 PM »
What if we don't tell anyone we're from California? :)  Maybe New Mexico?  Is that better or worse?

When we traveled in Europe people were very friendly and I think it's because we don't look like the typical "American" and speak English with a slight accent.  On the one hand, we're used to being outsiders, but if aloof friendliness is replaced by active dislike or contempt from the majority of your community, that would be hard to live with.  I guess we won't know unless we spend some time there and see for ourselves. 

calimom

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #41 on: March 06, 2018, 10:25:45 PM »
Jane, it seems that you're looking for an Oregon that doesn't exist. Not too much rain, because you get SAD. But not too much sun, because sun! But your husband needs sun. And you don't like 'homelessness' people.And you want it to be kind of cheap. So maybe you need to think of other places. I was born in Oregon and it does not seem like the place for you.

In all seriousness, have you given any thought to the Central Coast of California? Somewhere like San Luis Obismo might tick many of your boxes. Have you ever been there? Pismo Beach? Nice places if you're not looking for sun, super high housing prices, not much cosmopolitan atmosphere or stuff like that. Winters are mildly sunny and gentle; lots of overcast days the rest of the year. If your husband needs sun he can head a few miles inland.

wildbeast

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #42 on: March 06, 2018, 10:29:06 PM »
Jane, it seems that you're looking for an Oregon that doesn't exist. Not too much rain, because you get SAD. But not too much sun, because sun! But your husband needs sun. And you don't like 'homelessness' people.And you want it to be kind of cheap. So maybe you need to think of other places. I was born in Oregon and it does not seem like the place for you.

In all seriousness, have you given any thought to the Central Coast of California? Somewhere like San Luis Obismo might tick many of your boxes. Have you ever been there? Pismo Beach? Nice places if you're not looking for sun, super high housing prices, not much cosmopolitan atmosphere or stuff like that. Winters are mildly sunny and gentle; lots of overcast days the rest of the year. If your husband needs sun he can head a few miles inland.

Ouch!

Lamancha

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #43 on: March 06, 2018, 10:57:44 PM »
Hi.  This is my first post so I hope I'm doing it right.   We live just north of Gold Beach Oregon.   I am a born and raised  Portland Oregonian but I have lived in several other states  (including SoCal).   We moved here over 5 years ago looking for a slower pace in life.  We love it! 
 If you are worried about moving here and being an outsider.... Don't be.   Half the population around here is retired boomers from other states (mostly California and New York).  People in the PNW don't hate people that are trying to escape California, they hate people who are trying to turn the PNW into California.

koshtra

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #44 on: March 07, 2018, 09:34:15 AM »
Yeah, the anti-California thing is just talk. Actually Oregonians are delighted to show off their state, and "Californians" just means "big-city people who talk loud and drive fast."

The exception is if you move to small town Oregon, and have California plates, and drive with big-city aggressiveness. That will actually get you disliked.

... Ashland humid in the summer? First time I've heard of it.



big_slacker

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #45 on: March 07, 2018, 09:50:49 AM »
A day like today and you might think Seattle is the best city on earth.

Shut up, it rains all the time here.  No one goes outside, and SAD is a brutal and demoralizing danger to your well being.  No one should ever move here.  It's terrible.  Please go away, everyone.

Sol wins the Lesser Seattle Moss Cup award for best online impression of Emmett Watson -- if you don't get the reference you haven't lived here long enough!

Re: homelessness, I seriously doubt that you are going to find any decent town on the west coast that isn't  struggling to deal with the homeless crisis at the moment.  I was up in Mt. Vernon for a couple of weeks -- lovely town, but the homeless problem is just as bad there as it is down here.  Between rising housing costs, limited earning opportunities for those without advanced degrees, lack of proper mental health support, and the opioid crisis there are just too many people out there who don't have the resources they need to get/stay conventionally housed.  And the climate on the west coast and relatively liberal attitudes make it a somewhat easier place to stay without housing.

Some more than others. Downtown Bellevue and Downtown Seattle are worlds apart when it comes to the tolerance (and thus boldness) of the homeless community. I went downtown last week, the parking garage smelled like piss, there was human feces on the sidewalk next to the entrance and in 2 blocks I got hit up twice for change. Property crime is high and while it's not ALL homeless people you just don't want to take your eyes off anything you care about for a minute.

Not that there are no homeless people in Bellevue/Redmond but you don't see that kind of stuff downtown much at all. You can freely walk 6 blocks without having to constantly dodge people begging, running scams and I would actually feel somewhat ok locking my bike up and going into a business for an hour without fear it would be gone when I came out.

calimom

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #46 on: March 07, 2018, 10:04:11 AM »


... Ashland humid in the summer? First time I've heard of it.

That's news to me too.

Bracken_Joy

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #47 on: March 07, 2018, 10:11:39 AM »
I mean... the PNW in general is kinda humid (moreso in winter though)? But I don't think I'd describe Ashland as particularly humid. I've mainly spent time in winter there though, so maybe I'm just not remembering humid summer trips by comparison.

koshtra

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Re: Life in the Pacific Northwest
« Reply #48 on: March 07, 2018, 10:17:11 AM »
Nah, humid is when the water stays in the air. When there's water in the air here it falls out, which is what God meant it to do.

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