Author Topic: Has anybody driven the Alaska Highway?  (Read 4411 times)

andy85

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Has anybody driven the Alaska Highway?
« on: July 11, 2016, 09:19:30 AM »
Lately, I've been day dreaming about road trips. About how awesome it would be to load up a slide-in truck camper and hit 49 states over the course of 6 months to a year. This led me to looking up the route to Anchorage, Alaska, which led me to the Alaska Highway, which led me....to more and more rabbit holes of the internet.

So has anybody here ever driven this highway? I'd love to hear your stories about it, best times to go, tips for those that are interested, etc. I need my slight wanderlust satiated for the day with stories while i sit in my cube.

DeskJockey2028

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Re: Has anybody driven the Alaska Highway?
« Reply #1 on: July 11, 2016, 09:33:31 AM »
I've not driven the AlCan but it's one of my dreams to do so! I have gone up and down the Haul Road in Alaska from Fairbanks to Deadhorse, which was pretty awesome.

My wife and I are planning two road trips for our pre-fire vactions - on southern Yellowstone, Vegas, Rt. 66 and other points south. The other will be our northern trip which encompasses the AlCan, then down south through Kelowna BC, the Pacific NW, Cali, and back east again.

I've done a ton of research on the subject because I have downtime at work occasionally and like to stay busy. When/if you're going to go, snag a copy of the latest Milepost - a guide dedicated to driving in AK and northern Canada. https://www.themilepost.com/ They cover the AlCan in detail, literally mile by mile. They've got some great online resources too.

If you're still interested in the lower 48, here's an optimized road trip hitting every state and at least one major landmark in each: http://www.randalolson.com/2015/03/08/computing-the-optimal-road-trip-across-the-u-s/

As you can see, you've touched on one of my passions. :)

Lately, I've been day dreaming about road trips. About how awesome it would be to load up a slide-in truck camper and hit 49 states over the course of 6 months to a year. This led me to looking up the route to Anchorage, Alaska, which led me to the Alaska Highway, which led me....to more and more rabbit holes of the internet.

So has anybody here ever driven this highway? I'd love to hear your stories about it, best times to go, tips for those that are interested, etc. I need my slight wanderlust satiated for the day with stories while i sit in my cube.

Cookie78

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Re: Has anybody driven the Alaska Highway?
« Reply #2 on: July 11, 2016, 11:13:30 AM »
I haven't done the whole thing, but did the Dawson Creek to Haines Junction section a few times.

I only have one piece of advice. Stop at Liard Hot Springs.

DeskJockey2028

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Re: Has anybody driven the Alaska Highway?
« Reply #3 on: July 11, 2016, 11:15:06 AM »
I haven't done the whole thing, but did the Dawson Creek to Haines Junction section a few times.

I only have one piece of advice. Stop at Liard Hot Springs.

What's the general scenery like on that leg of the trip? We talking lots of brush and trees on either side or sweeping vistas of grandeur?

Cookie78

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Re: Has anybody driven the Alaska Highway?
« Reply #4 on: July 11, 2016, 11:22:36 AM »
I haven't done the whole thing, but did the Dawson Creek to Haines Junction section a few times.

I only have one piece of advice. Stop at Liard Hot Springs.

What's the general scenery like on that leg of the trip? We talking lots of brush and trees on either side or sweeping vistas of grandeur?


It's been awhile since the last time I was there, but...
South of Fort Nelson I remember long flat straight stretches of road in mostly forested areas.
West of Fort Nelson driving through the mountains is gorgeous with narrow winding roads.

Lanthiriel

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Re: Has anybody driven the Alaska Highway?
« Reply #5 on: July 11, 2016, 11:29:20 AM »
Yes! It's amazing! Even doing it in a UHaul that couldn't make it over 55, it was an amazing trip. That said, it's basically impossible to do without The Milepost. You can buy it on Amazon. The tricky part about the Alcan is that there aren't a ton of gas stations on the way or proper campgrounds if that's your thing, so you need to use the book to figure out where you're going to overnight and gas up. Definitely pick up the newest year even though it's spendy because it's entirely possible that the previous year's amenities have disappeared.

Lanthiriel

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Re: Has anybody driven the Alaska Highway?
« Reply #6 on: July 11, 2016, 11:31:47 AM »
Answering more of your questions: I could recommend July/August. Most of the amenities are open Memorial through Labor Day, but in the off season, you have even fewer gas stations open. I definitely know people who have done the trip in April or even January. You have to have a lot of balls to do this because -40 with no cell reception and no civilization for 200 miles is not a situation I want to be in.

Drifterrider

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Re: Has anybody driven the Alaska Highway?
« Reply #7 on: July 11, 2016, 12:38:03 PM »

So has anybody here ever driven this highway? I'd love to hear your stories about it, best times to go, tips for those that are interested, etc. I need my slight wanderlust satiated for the day with stories while i sit in my cube.

Yes.  You will gain more insight on www.advrider.com   mostly about motorcycle travel but same rules apply (gas, lodging, food, etc).

Bobberth

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Re: Has anybody driven the Alaska Highway?
« Reply #8 on: July 12, 2016, 03:21:47 PM »
I've driven to Alaska twice, in 99 & 01. Been a few years but it's an amazing trek. Definitely get the Milepost, or what ever App they may have now. Two things that stand out from the drive: I looked down at the clock and thought that since is was 12:30am, I should  turn my headlights on, just on principal since it was still so light out. Once I realized my radio had been scanning for AM radio stations for 2+ hours so I just turned it off. Beautiful drive the whole way. Saw a moose I probably could have driven under. Muncho Lake was my favorite spot both time.

I took an extra gas can both times but never needed it (summer time) but I did use it to get extra cheap gas in the US before heading into Canada. The driver's side window of my Dad's truck blew out while driving and we were able to get it fixed along the way so the entire trip is not all remote wilderness.

It's weird as I brought our Alaska photo album with me to work today to scan in a picture from another part of that trip. Yes photos, it was a different time when I made the trip.

clarkfan1979

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Re: Has anybody driven the Alaska Highway?
« Reply #9 on: July 12, 2016, 03:33:03 PM »
One of my friends drove from San Francisco to Alaska and back in 3 weeks with his dad. They went through 3 windshields.

Lanthiriel

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Re: Has anybody driven the Alaska Highway?
« Reply #10 on: July 12, 2016, 04:23:02 PM »
Muncho Lake was my favorite spot both time.

Yes! Mucho Lake! I couldn't remember the name of it. I also was strangely obsessed with Whitehorse. It was the only fairly substantial community on the whole drive.

human

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Re: Has anybody driven the Alaska Highway?
« Reply #11 on: July 12, 2016, 05:03:10 PM »
In 2013 I took a 3 month road trip and did Northern BC, Yukon and Alaska.

Places I recommend visiting and hiking:

Chilko Lake, camped there for two days and day hiked, there's a beautiful spot (to hike to) at the top of a mountain (Tullin I think) on the north part of the lake.

Bella Coola - Rainbow range and then hunlen falls - hunlen falls had a washed out bridge and didn't try it. The raindbow range had snow so I bailed and went to Haida Gwaii

Haida Gwaii, rennell sound, grey bay and tow hill - beautiful!

Hyder and Stewart BC, very beautiful, worth visiting no overnight hiking

Atlin Lake, if you are into canoeing/kayaking you could have a great time, I did a quick hike up Monarch mountain (I think is what it was called) and just hung out at the beach. Beautiful lake and views there.

Drove to skagway, tourist town but there is the famous chilkoot pass. I didn't do this hike because I couldn't be bothered with logistics.

Haines Junction was primarily a base camp to visit haines and hike the cottonwood trail and slim's river west to the top of observation mountain, YOU have to do this!

Then drove through Anchorage (spent only one night there) then on to homer just to check it out. Then drove to Seward for a cheesy boat tour for a day, the boat tour was expensive but worth it.

Denali State Park, Kesugi ridge, supposed to be great views of Denali but fog the day I visited (didn't do the whole trail).

Denali National Park, spent three days in a management unit, amazing!

Biggest regret of the trip was not going to the Gates of the Arctic National Park, don't make the same mistake.

Drove the top of the world highway to Dawson, most beautiful views (driving) during the trip. I think what made it stand out was so few cars on the highway.

Tombstone Territorial Park hiking 4 days on the trails there (up the Dempster highway). Beautiful park and trail.

I regret not trying to drive to Tuktoyaktuk, or driving through Nahanni or to Yellowknife

Then drove back down the Alaska highway to the Rockies, there I did the skyline trail, mount Robson trail (don't skip snowbird pass) and a hiked to Egypt lake. I'm missing a hike in there somewhere. Also visited Lake Louise, Canmore, Jasper and Banff.

There's tons of stuff to do on a trip like this, make sure you have 2-4 months to do it!

I had a 2002 Honda civic, it was fine on the Top of the world Highway but I wussed out on the Dempster, I'm sure it would have been fine though.
 

« Last Edit: July 14, 2016, 06:18:15 PM by human »

soccerluvof4

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Re: Has anybody driven the Alaska Highway?
« Reply #12 on: July 13, 2016, 07:12:44 AM »
I have a brother that has done it several times as he lives there. He says its beautiful but a tough drive. I have a friend that did it and his car got rammed by a moose and he got badly injured. As expected and as others have said just be prepared do your research and it should be fun and beautiful.

Eggman111

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Re: Has anybody driven the Alaska Highway?
« Reply #13 on: July 13, 2016, 09:59:05 PM »
Yes! We drove it almost every summer as a family while I was growing up. My parents grew up in the Yukon and it's a special place for us. I want to go again now that I'm married and have a kid of my own, once he's a little older and can appreciate it.

I agree with the recommendation to visit Liard Hot Springs. It's a wonderful place. Muncho Lake is nice too. We stayed in both those places on different years.

According to my parents, when they were growing up, the highway used to be rough, dusty, and you would go through sets of tires along the way. One story that illustrates it well is that my mom's mom smoked in the car, so they could never decide if it was better to have the windows open or closed.

These days, it's paved, so the worst is a cracked windshield if some rocks get kicked up the wrong way in a construction zone, and that didn't happen often.

I have many fond memories of those trips. If you do a round trip through Canada, go back along the Stewart-Cassiar Highway 37 in BC instead so you can see even more of the province.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


Mongoose

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Re: Has anybody driven the Alaska Highway?
« Reply #14 on: July 14, 2016, 07:11:32 AM »
Yep. Many times (parents lived in Alaska). It's an awesome drive. As someone mentioned, it's all paved now so a much easier drive than it used to be (our first trip was interesting). We camped every time. Never had trouble finding gas. I personally like the road the best near and beyond Kluane. That's where it always feels like it's getting really different. Liard Hot Springs is nice too though. :-)

In Alaska, Denali is very much a hope to see for most and the park is great. We mainly fish and go berrying as we have a home base to prepare/freeze all the goodies. Fly fishing for grayling is really great if you're interested in that sort of thing (a lot of catch and release areas).

paddedhat

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Re: Has anybody driven the Alaska Highway?
« Reply #15 on: July 14, 2016, 08:42:18 PM »
Strange timing. We did the trip four times over the last fifteen years. A few months ago I posted an offer to send a free 2015 Milepost, and a current "Churches Alaskan Camping" to anybody that would cover the postage, and got nothing in the way of takers. ( it's gone now) Last year was pretty typical, except for the fact that the first few hundred miles out of Dawson's creek were in great shape due to the now deflated fracking boom in the area. My favorite spot is Liard hot springs, it's absolutely magical, and hot as hell, if you dare venture toward the source, in the pool. The roads are surprisingly good, especially on your way north. By the end of of the summer there will be at least one, hours long, trudge, in the area to Kluane Lake from the AK. border, that will really, really suck. Seriously, it can be brutal. It will be a frost heave ravaged goat trail, with massive paving damage.You just take it slow, bitch and whine about how bad it is, weave around all the really bad holes, and get through it. On our worst trip it took five hours to go 120 miles from Beaver Creek south. The lady working the counter at the Beaver Creek gas station asked if I was heading south? Once I said yes, she told me that I was about to drive the worst 120 miles I ever had, in my life. She was spot on.  I always like heading north to Whitehorse, then I leave the Ak. Highway, and head north to Dawson City and the Top of the World Highway into Ak. On the way back, take the Cassier Highway south at Watson Lake and be sure to take the side road to Hyder Ak. In Hyder don't miss the seafood at the bus, the grizzlies fishing in the creek, or the stunning glacier.  It's a great trip, have fun.
« Last Edit: July 14, 2016, 08:44:05 PM by paddedhat »