Getting my 15 year old Corolla inspected

[G-String]

My 2005 Toyota Corolla has 128,000kms on it (approx. 100k miles), and is running fine.  However, I only take it in for an oil change every year so it has not had a full inspection done in several years.  I am planning on taking it in for an inspection in couple weeks to see what's going on with the vehicle.  This will look at things like tie-rods, brakes, exhaust, belts etc.  I know garages can scam people into repairs that are not needed, but I figure with a 15 year old car this is something I should be doing.  I plan on keeping the car a few more years but it'd be nice to know what's going on with it.  Cost for the inspection is only like $60 and that also includes tire rotation so seems fair. 

Thoughts? 

[Sibley]

Well, I wouldn't actually do anything, just write down everything they say and then do your own research.

[G-String]

Well, I wouldn't actually do anything, just write down everything they say and then do your own research.

Good advice and yes, that is what I was planning.  I mean the car is almost 15 years old so I'm only hoping to get 1-3 more years out of it. 

[CatamaranSailor]

It may be 15 years old, but 100,000 miles is not a lot for a Toyota.

What I WOULD suggest is that the shop pay special attention to ball joints and tie rod ends (which I know you indicated they'd look at). Toyota does not have a set replacement schedule for these (at least they don't for mine). However, failure of either ball joints or tie rod ends can be catastrophic depending on the situation. Literally, your wheel can fold in on itself. I actually had this happen (on a Chevy truck, not a Toyota) and thank God we were only doing about 25 MPH and not on the highway.

You may have worn shocks/struts if they have not been replaced. Those are pretty easy.

Other than that, enjoy the car! You'll most likely get another easy 100,000 miles out of it!

[MilesTeg]

My 2005 Toyota Corolla has 128,000kms on it (approx. 100k miles), and is running fine.  However, I only take it in for an oil change every year so it has not had a full inspection done in several years.  I am planning on taking it in for an inspection in couple weeks to see what's going on with the vehicle.  This will look at things like tie-rods, brakes, exhaust, belts etc.  I know garages can scam people into repairs that are not needed, but I figure with a 15 year old car this is something I should be doing.  I plan on keeping the car a few more years but it'd be nice to know what's going on with it.  Cost for the inspection is only like $60 and that also includes tire rotation so seems fair. 

Thoughts?

It's never a bad idea to get an inspection done. Age does matter even though it's relatively low mileage. As always, double check the advice given.

Hopefully with a 1 year/7k oil l change interval you are using synthetic oil...

[Just Joe]

You can look up videos on You Tube to leanr how to inspect those things yourself. Let the shop take a stab at it and then see if you can confirm their diagnosis with what you learn on YT.

A dealer told my friend that they needed tie rod ends. Tie rod ends get loose over time making the steering vague and causing the tires to wear unevenly.

Friend brought it to me and I was able to duplicate the play in the joint but the play was tiny. A decade or more later the vehicle has never had the tie rod replaced and the play has not worsened in any appreciable way. Friend does not drive alot of miles with this particular vehicle.

www.youtube.com/results?search_query=checking+tie+rods+and+ball+joints

The first result is the channel "ChrisFix". He generally makes good videos.

With the age of your vehicle I would look for ruined rubber parts - V-belts, timing belts, serpentine belts (not sure what a Corolla has), shock absorbers perhaps, and CV axle boots.

My 20 year old Honda has wornout its front sway bar bushings three times ($12 DIY with NAPA parts) while its other suspension parts are just fine at 300K+ miles now. No axle boot problems. Not shock absorber replacements. I have noticed the upper balljoints need to be replaced b/c the rubber grease boots are rotted. Its worn out several sets of brake pads, one set of rear brakes, brake rotors replaced twice, rear drums machined once.

My other 20 year old domestic sedan has needed shocks and that's it. It has ~160K miles. Its worn out a couple sets of brakes before I bought it.

I think your Corolla will check out just fine as long as your local streets aren't like those of a third world country.

[Turnbull]

Good advice and yes, that is what I was planning.  I mean the car is almost 15 years old so I'm only hoping to get 1-3 more years out of it.

Message me in a year and I'll take that miserable heap off your hands.

[G-String]

You can look up videos on You Tube to leanr how to inspect those things yourself. Let the shop take a stab at it and then see if you can confirm their diagnosis with what you learn on YT.

A dealer told my friend that they needed tie rod ends. Tie rod ends get loose over time making the steering vague and causing the tires to wear unevenly.

Friend brought it to me and I was able to duplicate the play in the joint but the play was tiny. A decade or more later the vehicle has never had the tie rod replaced and the play has not worsened in any appreciable way. Friend does not drive alot of miles with this particular vehicle.

www.youtube.com/results?search_query=checking+tie+rods+and+ball+joints

The first result is the channel "ChrisFix". He generally makes good videos.

With the age of your vehicle I would look for ruined rubber parts - V-belts, timing belts, serpentine belts (not sure what a Corolla has), shock absorbers perhaps, and CV axle boots.

My 20 year old Honda has wornout its front sway bar bushings three times ($12 DIY with NAPA parts) while its other suspension parts are just fine at 300K+ miles now. No axle boot problems. Not shock absorber replacements. I have noticed the upper balljoints need to be replaced b/c the rubber grease boots are rotted. Its worn out several sets of brake pads, one set of rear brakes, brake rotors replaced twice, rear drums machined once.

My other 20 year old domestic sedan has needed shocks and that's it. It has ~160K miles. Its worn out a couple sets of brakes before I bought it.

I think your Corolla will check out just fine as long as your local streets aren't like those of a third world country.

I live in Canada so with our winters we do get the yearly freeze and thaw, but the roads aren't terrible.  Plus they salt the streets, so there's that in winter that gets on the cars. 

[Just Joe]

With salt your car will likely rot away before it wears out.

[G-String]

With salt your car will likely rot away before it wears out.

Almost no rust on it so far.  Just a tiny bit under the rear driver side door, but I've been monitoring and painting it. 

[dsw]

It may be 15 years old, but 100,000 miles is not a lot for a Toyota.

What I WOULD suggest is that the shop pay special attention to ball joints and tie rod ends (which I know you indicated they'd look at). Toyota does not have a set replacement schedule for these (at least they don't for mine). However, failure of either ball joints or tie rod ends can be catastrophic depending on the situation. Literally, your wheel can fold in on itself. I actually had this happen (on a Chevy truck, not a Toyota) and thank God we were only doing about 25 MPH and not on the highway.

You may have worn shocks/struts if they have not been replaced. Those are pretty easy.

Other than that, enjoy the car! You'll most likely get another easy 100,000 miles out of it!

I'd second this advice. Keep oil in it and you're going to get a lot more than 1 to 3 more years out of this car. So far as an inspection goes, find the ugliest looking garage in your town and take it there. If they're dressed too nice or if the seats in the waiting area are anything you'd feel comfortable sitting in, they're going to charge you too much.

Out of curiosity, are you in a state that requires an annual inspection?

[BussoV6]

You can look up videos on You Tube to leanr how to inspect those things yourself. Let the shop take a stab at it and then see if you can confirm their diagnosis with what you learn on YT.

A dealer told my friend that they needed tie rod ends. Tie rod ends get loose over time making the steering vague and causing the tires to wear unevenly.

Friend brought it to me and I was able to duplicate the play in the joint but the play was tiny. A decade or more later the vehicle has never had the tie rod replaced and the play has not worsened in any appreciable way. Friend does not drive alot of miles with this particular vehicle.

www.youtube.com/results?search_query=checking+tie+rods+and+ball+joints

The first result is the channel "ChrisFix". He generally makes good videos.

With the age of your vehicle I would look for ruined rubber parts - V-belts, timing belts, serpentine belts (not sure what a Corolla has), shock absorbers perhaps, and CV axle boots.

My 20 year old Honda has wornout its front sway bar bushings three times ($12 DIY with NAPA parts) while its other suspension parts are just fine at 300K+ miles now. No axle boot problems. Not shock absorber replacements. I have noticed the upper balljoints need to be replaced b/c the rubber grease boots are rotted. Its worn out several sets of brake pads, one set of rear brakes, brake rotors replaced twice, rear drums machined once.

My other 20 year old domestic sedan has needed shocks and that's it. It has ~160K miles. Its worn out a couple sets of brakes before I bought it.

I think your Corolla will check out just fine as long as your local streets aren't like those of a third world country.

Some good advice here. Other rubber parts to replace if not recently done should include hoses (brake, fuel and coolant).

[WSUCoug1994]

As a former mechanic (but I still play one in my garage), I would disagree with some of this advice.  If you are not a trained mechanic and your car is getting up in age I would invest the money to have an inspection.  You can't always eyeball variance on some of these different core pieces that are designed to wear out.  Here is some more advice you probably won't like - I would take it to the dealership for service.  I understand that stealerships are expensive and like to take your money but they know these cars inside and out.  You don't have to choose the dealership for the service but they will know which parts wear out the fastest and how to do a true and year/model inspection on your vehicle.

This is a 2500lb death sled going at 60+ miles an hour.  Get the car inspected.

[G-String]

It may be 15 years old, but 100,000 miles is not a lot for a Toyota.

What I WOULD suggest is that the shop pay special attention to ball joints and tie rod ends (which I know you indicated they'd look at). Toyota does not have a set replacement schedule for these (at least they don't for mine). However, failure of either ball joints or tie rod ends can be catastrophic depending on the situation. Literally, your wheel can fold in on itself. I actually had this happen (on a Chevy truck, not a Toyota) and thank God we were only doing about 25 MPH and not on the highway.

You may have worn shocks/struts if they have not been replaced. Those are pretty easy.

Other than that, enjoy the car! You'll most likely get another easy 100,000 miles out of it!

I'd second this advice. Keep oil in it and you're going to get a lot more than 1 to 3 more years out of this car. So far as an inspection goes, find the ugliest looking garage in your town and take it there. If they're dressed too nice or if the seats in the waiting area are anything you'd feel comfortable sitting in, they're going to charge you too much.

Out of curiosity, are you in a state that requires an annual inspection?

No I am not.  There is only a requirements for a safety inspection when selling/buying a vehicle. 

[MilesTeg]

As a former mechanic (but I still play one in my garage), I would disagree with some of this advice.  If you are not a trained mechanic and your car is getting up in age I would invest the money to have an inspection.  You can't always eyeball variance on some of these different core pieces that are designed to wear out.  Here is some more advice you probably won't like - I would take it to the dealership for service.  I understand that stealerships are expensive and like to take your money but they know these cars inside and out.  You don't have to choose the dealership for the service but they will know which parts wear out the fastest and how to do a true and year/model inspection on your vehicle.

This is a 2500lb death sled going at 60+ miles an hour.  Get the car inspected.

Yeah, the small fee for deep inspections is well worth it. A laymen following YouTube videos is not comparable.

[dsw]

Out of curiosity, are you in a state that requires an annual inspection?

No I am not.  There is only a requirements for a safety inspection when selling/buying a vehicle.

I've lived in a state that also didn't require inspections and while inspections are always a pain in the butt, it does seem like a good idea for some things. Not everybody is great at making sure their brakes, tires, and whatnot are in safe enough shape. I would definitely recommend taking it in periodically, even if not annually.

[Car Jack]

As a former mechanic (but I still play one in my garage), I would disagree with some of this advice.  If you are not a trained mechanic and your car is getting up in age I would invest the money to have an inspection.  You can't always eyeball variance on some of these different core pieces that are designed to wear out.  Here is some more advice you probably won't like - I would take it to the dealership for service.  I understand that stealerships are expensive and like to take your money but they know these cars inside and out.  You don't have to choose the dealership for the service but they will know which parts wear out the fastest and how to do a true and year/model inspection on your vehicle.

This is a 2500lb death sled going at 60+ miles an hour.  Get the car inspected.

I can't fully agree or disagree with this.  Here's why....in my area, and with my cars (Subarus), I am VERY familiar with a bunch of dealers.  Some have very good mechanics where I'd 100% expect they'd find problems.  Some others, I would trust that they wouldn't be able to find their hand if I pushed it into their face.  Then there's the interface....the tech writer.  At even the "good" dealer, the writer is incentivized by commissions on all services he writes.  So even though I replaced all the rotors and pads in my car, when I bring it in for a warranty service, they always do their 143 point inspection and the pads are NEVER "green", meaning good.  They are always either yellow or red.

It's very tough to find a really good mechanic.  Near me, there are several Subaru specialist independents and a really, really good "everything" mechanic. 

So yah....have it inspected.  But focus on things you can't check.  I'm sure you could pull a wheel and measure pad thickness to double check, in case you're told they need to be replaced.

[hadabeardonce]

My Corolla is 32 years old. In 1987 Toyota made a coloring book on how to maintain and repair it. The quality of the factory service manual is a big reason older Toyotas last so long. Armed with the knowledge and a torque wrench I've replaced head gaskets, valve seals, catalytic converters, struts, water pumps, timing belts, etc. on a few cars. There's a maintenance schedule in them that I still follow(attached [I'm behind on updating it] ), but aside from that my repairs are reactionary. Got a leak? Find the source, replace the seal and/or part. Can't pass emissions? Use the book to troubleshoot based on the high value.

The past few years I've been bicycling to work, so the current issues I have with my old cars are related to not driving them and not wanting to spend time working on them. If I took my car into a shop a mechanic would come up with a laundry list of items, but without replacing those the car is still doing what I need it to do when I need it to do it.

Best of luck with your young car! 2005 is so new! Luxurious!

[LiveLean]

Bought my first Corolla a year ago after sitting in my mechanic's waiting room for years and listening to him give opinions on various cars. Land Rover, garbage. BMW, Mini-Cooper, Jeeps - avoid at all cost. Chryslers? Haven't been worth a crap in years.

One day I finally asked him what's the best car to buy. "Tell you what. Thirty-five years of doing this, I've never done anything but routine maintenance on a Toyota Corolla. Drive around. There's a reason many of the oldest cars you see on the road are Corollas."

Two months later, I bought a Corolla. My 16-year-old drives it mostly. When my Town & Country dies - or I get sick of pumping money into it - I'm buying a Camry.

[use2betrix]

I didn’t hesitate to put two new tires on my 1999 Camry with 150k miles today. It’s an older car but it’s been dead reliable. Never left me stranded in the 6 years I’ve had it except for a battery issue. We did the timing belt at 90k, have done front and rear struts, pads, transmission fluid, etc. Basically all the standard wear and tear items. There’s an annoying clunk in the rear that no one has ever been able to figure out, but it’s smooth as silk on the highway. The clunk is only when slow over big potholes.

I easily have the money to replace the car. I can save almost enough in a month to buy a new corolla, but hard to justify when our Camry does all the basics just fine. At this point, I am committed that any repair over around $500-$1000, it will get replaced. Note - that would be a repair, I wouldn’t hesitate to continue spending on the necessary routine maintenance.

[WSUCoug1994]

My Corolla is 32 years old. In 1987 Toyota made a coloring book on how to maintain and repair it. The quality of the factory service manual is a big reason older Toyotas last so long. Armed with the knowledge and a torque wrench I've replaced head gaskets, valve seals, catalytic converters, struts, water pumps, timing belts, etc. on a few cars. There's a maintenance schedule in them that I still follow(attached [I'm behind on updating it] ), but aside from that my repairs are reactionary. Got a leak? Find the source, replace the seal and/or part. Can't pass emissions? Use the book to troubleshoot based on the high value.

The past few years I've been bicycling to work, so the current issues I have with my old cars are related to not driving them and not wanting to spend time working on them. If I took my car into a shop a mechanic would come up with a laundry list of items, but without replacing those the car is still doing what I need it to do when I need it to do it.

Best of luck with your young car! 2005 is so new! Luxurious!

Cool story!

[stealthwealth]

I have an '03 I've owned since it was new.  It's sitting on 210k miles, has had virtually no need for repairs, and I expect it'll be more or less fine through at least 300k.  You can probably drive that bad boy for another 15 years no problem.  They really are bulletproof cars. 

[AnnaGrowsAMustache]

My Corolla is 19 years old, 273,000km on it. We get inspections here every two years - you have to have a current warrant of fitness to drive a car on the road in NZ

[BudgetSlasher]

As a former mechanic (but I still play one in my garage), I would disagree with some of this advice.  If you are not a trained mechanic and your car is getting up in age I would invest the money to have an inspection.  You can't always eyeball variance on some of these different core pieces that are designed to wear out.  Here is some more advice you probably won't like - I would take it to the dealership for service.  I understand that stealerships are expensive and like to take your money but they know these cars inside and out.  You don't have to choose the dealership for the service but they will know which parts wear out the fastest and how to do a true and year/model inspection on your vehicle.

This is a 2500lb death sled going at 60+ miles an hour.  Get the car inspected.

I can't fully agree or disagree with this.  Here's why....in my area, and with my cars (Subarus), I am VERY familiar with a bunch of dealers.  Some have very good mechanics where I'd 100% expect they'd find problems.  Some others, I would trust that they wouldn't be able to find their hand if I pushed it into their face.  Then there's the interface....the tech writer.  At even the "good" dealer, the writer is incentivized by commissions on all services he writes.  So even though I replaced all the rotors and pads in my car, when I bring it in for a warranty service, they always do their 143 point inspection and the pads are NEVER "green", meaning good.  They are always either yellow or red.

It's very tough to find a really good mechanic.  Near me, there are several Subaru specialist independents and a really, really good "everything" mechanic. 

So yah....have it inspected.  But focus on things you can't check.  I'm sure you could pull a wheel and measure pad thickness to double check, in case you're told they need to be replaced.

Your story about Subaru brakes mirrors my experience with 2 dealerships. When my car was newish, ~14k, I was told there old "about 30%" left on my rear brake pads. I didn't replace those pads until ~47k, and that was only due to a seized caliper wearing out a pad. Less than 5k later I had a different dealership tell me that I had 60% pad life left on the front and 40% on the rear and that I would probably need to consider replacing them after a couple thousand mile road trip.

[G-String]

My Corolla is 19 years old, 273,000km on it. We get inspections here every two years - you have to have a current warrant of fitness to drive a car on the road in NZ

I have an '03 I've owned since it was new.  It's sitting on 210k miles, has had virtually no need for repairs, and I expect it'll be more or less fine through at least 300k.  You can probably drive that bad boy for another 15 years no problem.  They really are bulletproof cars.

What kind of repairs have you both done? 

[Bird In Hand]

I love all the Corolla anecdotes.  We just bought our first new car in 15 years (yeah, facepunch if you want -- Bird In Hand don't care), and it came down to a new Corolla or Honda Civic.  In the end we went with the Corolla, primarily due to the predicted reliability.  Ok, the stupid low price and manual transmission in a decent trim kind of sealed the deal.  But, however impressive the performance and MPG in Honda's 1.5T, the Turbo+GDI+CVT combo gives me the opposite of warm fuzzies when I think about long-term reliability.

[Just Joe]

As a former mechanic (but I still play one in my garage), I would disagree with some of this advice.  If you are not a trained mechanic and your car is getting up in age I would invest the money to have an inspection.  You can't always eyeball variance on some of these different core pieces that are designed to wear out.  Here is some more advice you probably won't like - I would take it to the dealership for service.  I understand that stealerships are expensive and like to take your money but they know these cars inside and out.  You don't have to choose the dealership for the service but they will know which parts wear out the fastest and how to do a true and year/model inspection on your vehicle.

This is a 2500lb death sled going at 60+ miles an hour.  Get the car inspected.

A GOOD mechanic is worth his cost. I would hope the dealer mechanic would be the best for a certain brand of vehicle. Dealer mechanics have generally been positive for me with a couple of duds over the years.

I've crossed paths with incompetent mechanics and dishonest mechanics and I've simply learned to double check their work or their diagnosis. Sometimes it is simple like the mechanic that failed to reinstall all the bolts on my grandparents' alternator. Or the dealer that wanted my friend to spend $1500 as I recall to rebuild the front end of a 70K mile pickup truck which is no worse today than it was 15 years ago. I watched a guy replace my tires - at a tire and alignment shop. I noticed a loose tie rod end from 20 feet away that he ignored or failed to notice. I asked him to go back and check the tire rod ends and yep, it was loose. I took it elsewhere to have the tie rod replaced and the front end aligned.

My earlier point about using YT/Internet is that all consumers ought to educate themselves a little when they have any doubts about a mechanic's workmanship. Don't give any person - trade or professional a blank check so to speak. 

I've been working on cars for about 40 years at this point. While I don't have any ASME certifications (mine is BS in engineering) the time and effort to learn what I know has been worthwhile. I've worked on cars as old as Model T's and as new as they haven't left the factory floor yet. Its been fun.

If a person doesn't know what a spark plug is - find out. The internet is there. Now they'll know until the end of their days. They need a new starter? Get the repair manual and learn to do the work. Then they'll know. Keep going bit by bit.

[AnnaGrowsAMustache]

My Corolla is 19 years old, 273,000km on it. We get inspections here every two years - you have to have a current warrant of fitness to drive a car on the road in NZ

I have an '03 I've owned since it was new.  It's sitting on 210k miles, has had virtually no need for repairs, and I expect it'll be more or less fine through at least 300k.  You can probably drive that bad boy for another 15 years no problem.  They really are bulletproof cars.

What kind of repairs have you both done?

I replaced the cambelt when I bought it.
It's had a couple of new tyres and the odd wheel alignment
The rear wheel bearings had to be done a few years ago
The gears are just starting to be a bit slippy so maybe that's next.

Other than that, just consumables - wiper blades, brake pads, light bulbs, battery

That's it. Poor old things doesn't even get regular servicing.

Before this car I had another old Corolla for 20 years. It had previously belonged to the Army where it was used to train mechanics. This car had been stripped and rebuilt more than any car on the planet. Everyone advised me not to buy it. Lasted 20 years before it got just too old and battered for even me. This current car was an ex rental, so very high miles but also a full service every 3 months. I bought it a year old, for $5000. Again, everyone told me not to buy it. That was in 2001...... It has a few dents. I don't think they're worth repairing on a car this age. Nothing too bad. It's quite nice being able to tell a stressed kid who backed a trailer into the rear of your car and left a little palm size dent, that you're not actually worried about it and won't be repairing it!

[stealthwealth]

The repairs on my 03 were a warranty recall steering thing as soon as I bought it, an 02 sensor, a coil, an ac gasket, and a catalytic converter around 180k that in retrospect may have been the failing o2 sensor.  And consumables.  About $1k in total, maybe less.  The state I live in will pass a shitty ram 3500 diesel that gets 12mpg or whatever, but if your cel is on, God forbid your 35mpg vehicle get its tags renewed.  Fucking retarded emissions inspection system.

[pab88]

My Corolla is a 2005 manual, has 95K miles and could probably do with new shocks but is otherwise fine.

I would get it inspected if I needed it for day to day use, but I bike commute for all but one day a week, and even then driving is optional so I just wait for things to need replacing.

Though here in New South Wales cars older than 3 years are checked every year for roadworthiness as a condition of registration, so if something is glaringly in need of repair it will usually be flagged.

[G-String]

So for those curious I got the inspection done today. Here's the results:

The first and only urgent item is the rear brake shoes only have 1.6mm remaking (10%) so they need to be replaced at a total cost of $225.

The remaining non-essential items include replacing the cabin filter (I can do this myself), replacing the windshield wipers (I can do this myself), replacing an oil sensor (cost $110), and replacing the transmission fluid as it's getting a little dark (cost $70).

The mechanic said the car looks very solid and is obviously very well maintained. I was quite pleased to hear this.

[Just Joe]

Got a shadetree mechanic friend?

Rear brakes: less than $20 from Rock Auto. That price is for both sides.
IF you need a wheel cylinder (possibly two) they are about $10 each. Most cars never need one.
Brake drum: $20. Or you take it to a parts store and have it machined for $10. Most cars seldom need this.
Oil pressure switch is less than $15 from Rock Auto. It just screws in.

Any shadetree mechanic friend can do these things. Just thought I would throw this out there b/c this is MMM and saving money is good.

[G-String]

Got a shadetree mechanic friend?

Rear brakes: less than $20 from Rock Auto. That price is for both sides.
IF you need a wheel cylinder (possibly two) they are about $10 each. Most cars never need one.
Brake drum: $20. Or you take it to a parts store and have it machined for $10. Most cars seldom need this.
Oil pressure switch is less than $15 from Rock Auto. It just screws in.

Any shadetree mechanic friend can do these things. Just thought I would throw this out there b/c this is MMM and saving money is good.

Thanks for the feedback but unfortunately I don't have a shade tree friend.

[G-String]

Any car guys here who can chime in on whether I should get the transmission fluid drained and filled?  Details of my car are in the initial post. 

[zolotiyeruki]

Any car guys here who can chime in on whether I should get the transmission fluid drained and filled?  Details of my car are in the initial post. 

When was it last changed?  It's usually a "change every 30k miles/50k kms" item.  It's also something you can pretty easily DIY.  The cost of all the tools and supplies will be less than what a mechanic will charge, you'll have the car back in running condition faster, and when you're done, you'll get to keep the tools and knowledge you've gained!

I own a '95 Corolla with 230k miles.  Runs sweet as a nut.  Keep in mind that some maintenance items are mileage-based (like brakes), some are time-based (basically anything rubber), and some are a little of both (like tires, and to a lesser extent, engine oil), and some are affected by environment (especially salted roads).

I didn’t hesitate to put two new tires on my 1999 Camry with 150k miles today. It’s an older car but it’s been dead reliable. Never left me stranded in the 6 years I’ve had it except for a battery issue. We did the timing belt at 90k, have done front and rear struts, pads, transmission fluid, etc. Basically all the standard wear and tear items. There’s an annoying clunk in the rear that no one has ever been able to figure out, but it’s smooth as silk on the highway. The clunk is only when slow over big potholes.

Have you checked whether it's your exhaust pipe clunking against the frame?

[Just Joe]

If its not obvious - just climb under the car with a leather work glove (when the exhaust is cool enough that you can touch it) and move the exhaust around near the rear suspension and see if it bumps the chassis or suspension. You could have an exhaust hanger that is broken or unhooked though I would expect the mechanics who have looked at this before would have noticed this.

Also: look at the the swap bar bushings or strut bushings. They also knock when they go bad.

Do you have the owner's manual for this car? They have a maintenance schedule printed in the owner's manual.

There is usually a normal service schedule and a severe duty schedule. You probably know this but in case you don't...

[G-String]

Any car guys here who can chime in on whether I should get the transmission fluid drained and filled?  Details of my car are in the initial post. 

When was it last changed?  It's usually a "change every 30k miles/50k kms" item.  It's also something you can pretty easily DIY.  The cost of all the tools and supplies will be less than what a mechanic will charge, you'll have the car back in running condition faster, and when you're done, you'll get to keep the tools and knowledge you've gained!

I own a '95 Corolla with 230k miles.  Runs sweet as a nut.  Keep in mind that some maintenance items are mileage-based (like brakes), some are time-based (basically anything rubber), and some are a little of both (like tires, and to a lesser extent, engine oil), and some are affected by environment (especially salted roads).

My biggest concern with doing it myself is putting too much or too little fluid in and destroying my transmission.  But if I understand correctly, there is a range for hot and cold? 

What is defined as "hot"?  Is that the car running for 60 seconds, or after a 10 minute drive? 

[Xlar]

Any car guys here who can chime in on whether I should get the transmission fluid drained and filled?  Details of my car are in the initial post.

Yes, I would definitely get the transmission fluid changed. The transmission fluid is an oil that breaks down over time. You owners manual may have an interval that it should be changed on.

[zolotiyeruki]

My biggest concern with doing it myself is putting too much or too little fluid in and destroying my transmission.  But if I understand correctly, there is a range for hot and cold? 

What is defined as "hot"?  Is that the car running for 60 seconds, or after a 10 minute drive?

It's "hot enough that the oil (or transmission fluid) is less viscous."  I just let the engine run for five minutes.  It's not a critically important thing.  Yes, there are usually markings on the dip stick for both a cold and a hot range.  As an alternative, your car's manual may also tell you how much new fluid is required to get back to the normal level after you've drained everything that will drain on its own.  If it doesn't, that information can easily be obtained online or in something like a Haynes manual.

[AnnaGrowsAMustache]

I'm pretty sure that car engines run with a very large margin of error. I don't know anything at all about engines. I do know that I don't check diddly besides oil and water in any car I have, and I might only get it serviced every decade. Yet they still last for decades. If something sounds weird, I get it checked. Other than that, nada. My conclusion is this: don't get all wound up about what mechanics say. They're trying to make money. Some things are important, like cambelts. Some things are expensive, like head gaskets. Get the cambelt replaced when you buy a used car, and regularly thereafter. Take the car to a mechanic if it's overheating. Drive with the radio off so you can hear the damn thing running and you'll know if you have an issue. Don't stress about the rest. The hood of my car hasn't even been OPEN in three or four years. Aliens could have replaced it with some kind of Tommyknockers style set up for all I know.....

[scottish]

For a contrary view to the no maintenance approach

I had a car that went through a set of ball joints every year.   I drove it fully loaded on rough roads regularly.

If I hadn't have the front end regularly checked, for sure one of the wheels would have fallen off when I was driving...

(When I had more money I bought a pickup truck.)

[AnnaGrowsAMustache]

For a contrary view to the no maintenance approach

I had a car that went through a set of ball joints every year.   I drove it fully loaded on rough roads regularly.

If I hadn't have the front end regularly checked, for sure one of the wheels would have fallen off when I was driving...

(When I had more money I bought a pickup truck.)

Are you telling me you didn't notice any noise from that, or problems with steering?

We had bad earthquakes here and for a long time our roads, even main roads were just rubble. I went through a lot of tyres, and a lot of wheel realignments. But those were things I noticed needed fixing.....

[Just Joe]

I'm pretty sure that car engines run with a very large margin of error. I don't know anything at all about engines. I do know that I don't check diddly besides oil and water in any car I have, and I might only get it serviced every decade. Yet they still last for decades. If something sounds weird, I get it checked. Other than that, nada. My conclusion is this: don't get all wound up about what mechanics say. They're trying to make money. Some things are important, like cambelts. Some things are expensive, like head gaskets. Get the cambelt replaced when you buy a used car, and regularly thereafter. Take the car to a mechanic if it's overheating. Drive with the radio off so you can hear the damn thing running and you'll know if you have an issue. Don't stress about the rest. The hood of my car hasn't even been OPEN in three or four years. Aliens could have replaced it with some kind of Tommyknockers style set up for all I know.....

Something an olde timer suggested was change the engine oil when it gets so dark that you can't see the dipstick markings through the dark oil. This interval will change depending on how you use your car. I've used this method for a long time and see mileage north of 300K several times. Sometimes it needs the oil changed at 3000-4000 miles, sometimes the interval is longer and closer to the 7500 miles the owner's manual recommends. I don't think I've ever actually run an oil change the full 7500 miles though. More like 6000 miles. Use a quality filter. I like NAPA Gold (made by Wix).

As for the transmission - use the schedule in the manual. I've never worn out a manual transmission. I've had an automatic wear out its internal clutches and required a rebuild. I change the auto fluid based on the interval int he book or when it starts to look dark red/brown rather than bright red. Manual transmission oil never seems to change colors so i just change it every few years.

I can't live by "ignorance is bliss" where health, cars and homes are concerned. I've owned a few houses and cars where the maintenance was seldom (or never) done and those were a mess. Lots of maintenance and repairs to catch up. I guess it was good for the darn previous owner... ;)

[MilesTeg]

I'm pretty sure that car engines run with a very large margin of error. I don't know anything at all about engines. I do know that I don't check diddly besides oil and water in any car I have, and I might only get it serviced every decade. Yet they still last for decades. If something sounds weird, I get it checked. Other than that, nada. My conclusion is this: don't get all wound up about what mechanics say. They're trying to make money. Some things are important, like cambelts. Some things are expensive, like head gaskets. Get the cambelt replaced when you buy a used car, and regularly thereafter. Take the car to a mechanic if it's overheating. Drive with the radio off so you can hear the damn thing running and you'll know if you have an issue. Don't stress about the rest. The hood of my car hasn't even been OPEN in three or four years. Aliens could have replaced it with some kind of Tommyknockers style set up for all I know.....

This is terrible, dangerous advice.

If you want to take this advice for "things that make you go" that's fine you're generally only risking inconvenience and financial woes to yourself.

Do NOT take this advice for "things that make you able to control the vehicle". That means brakes, tires, tie rods, ball joints, suspension, etc. Neglect these things and you risk your life and the lives of others around you.

[AnnaGrowsAMustache]

I'm pretty sure that car engines run with a very large margin of error. I don't know anything at all about engines. I do know that I don't check diddly besides oil and water in any car I have, and I might only get it serviced every decade. Yet they still last for decades. If something sounds weird, I get it checked. Other than that, nada. My conclusion is this: don't get all wound up about what mechanics say. They're trying to make money. Some things are important, like cambelts. Some things are expensive, like head gaskets. Get the cambelt replaced when you buy a used car, and regularly thereafter. Take the car to a mechanic if it's overheating. Drive with the radio off so you can hear the damn thing running and you'll know if you have an issue. Don't stress about the rest. The hood of my car hasn't even been OPEN in three or four years. Aliens could have replaced it with some kind of Tommyknockers style set up for all I know.....

This is terrible, dangerous advice.

If you want to take this advice for "things that make you go" that's fine you're generally only risking inconvenience and financial woes to yourself.

Do NOT take this advice for "things that make you able to control the vehicle". That means brakes, tires, tie rods, ball joints, suspension, etc. Neglect these things and you risk your life and the lives of others around you.

It's not terrible, dangerous advice at all. It's simply saying that you need to keep an eye on your car, including be aware of how it drives and the sounds it makes. If something changes, ask yourself why and do something about it. There are a lot of warning signs before your tyres are so worn they're dangerous, or before your brakes or suspension goes. Why do I need to pay someone to service or inspect it all the time? I'm in it and driving it for an hour or more every single day. If the steering is pulling, or the driving feels weird, or there are any tiny noises or changes, I will notice. I've had a car with a cracked head gasket. I noticed the temperature rising when it wouldn't normally, and took it to a mechanic to find out why. I've had a car with wheel bearings that went. I noticed the sound and took it to a mechanic to find out why. I know how much tread is on my tyres because I clean my car myself and have a look at such things when I'm cleaning. I just recently had a fan belt tightened because the engine made a slight squealing noise.

Seriously, turn the radio off and listen to your car when you drive.

[zolotiyeruki]

It's not terrible, dangerous advice at all. It's simply saying that you need to keep an eye on your car, including be aware of how it drives and the sounds it makes. If something changes, ask yourself why and do something about it. There are a lot of warning signs before your tyres are so worn they're dangerous, or before your brakes or suspension goes. Why do I need to pay someone to service or inspect it all the time? I'm in it and driving it for an hour or more every single day. If the steering is pulling, or the driving feels weird, or there are any tiny noises or changes, I will notice. I've had a car with a cracked head gasket. I noticed the temperature rising when it wouldn't normally, and took it to a mechanic to find out why. I've had a car with wheel bearings that went. I noticed the sound and took it to a mechanic to find out why. I know how much tread is on my tyres because I clean my car myself and have a look at such things when I'm cleaning. I just recently had a fan belt tightened because the engine made a slight squealing noise.

Seriously, turn the radio off and listen to your car when you drive.

You may be able to get away with it, being aware of the sounds your car makes.  The vast majority of the population will *not* have the same success.

[AnnaGrowsAMustache]

It's not terrible, dangerous advice at all. It's simply saying that you need to keep an eye on your car, including be aware of how it drives and the sounds it makes. If something changes, ask yourself why and do something about it. There are a lot of warning signs before your tyres are so worn they're dangerous, or before your brakes or suspension goes. Why do I need to pay someone to service or inspect it all the time? I'm in it and driving it for an hour or more every single day. If the steering is pulling, or the driving feels weird, or there are any tiny noises or changes, I will notice. I've had a car with a cracked head gasket. I noticed the temperature rising when it wouldn't normally, and took it to a mechanic to find out why. I've had a car with wheel bearings that went. I noticed the sound and took it to a mechanic to find out why. I know how much tread is on my tyres because I clean my car myself and have a look at such things when I'm cleaning. I just recently had a fan belt tightened because the engine made a slight squealing noise.

Seriously, turn the radio off and listen to your car when you drive.

You may be able to get away with it, being aware of the sounds your car makes.  The vast majority of the population will *not* have the same success.

I think the majority of people do notice something. They just ignore it and hope for the best. If you drive with your oil light on for six months, you can hardly then be surprised when something goes terribly badly. Yes, that would have been caught with regular inspections. It also would have been caught if the driver wasn't a moron.

[Just Joe]

It's not terrible, dangerous advice at all. It's simply saying that you need to keep an eye on your car, including be aware of how it drives and the sounds it makes. If something changes, ask yourself why and do something about it. There are a lot of warning signs before your tyres are so worn they're dangerous, or before your brakes or suspension goes. Why do I need to pay someone to service or inspect it all the time? I'm in it and driving it for an hour or more every single day. If the steering is pulling, or the driving feels weird, or there are any tiny noises or changes, I will notice. I've had a car with a cracked head gasket. I noticed the temperature rising when it wouldn't normally, and took it to a mechanic to find out why. I've had a car with wheel bearings that went. I noticed the sound and took it to a mechanic to find out why. I know how much tread is on my tyres because I clean my car myself and have a look at such things when I'm cleaning. I just recently had a fan belt tightened because the engine made a slight squealing noise.

I agree that just about every machine shows symptoms when they are wearing out but - the average person may not have the "knack" and never notice a problem until too late to avoid a safety issue or additional repairs. People are capable of learning but will they make the effort? Do they have a quality mentor that can point out issues that the owner of the car can learn from?

i asked OP if they had a shadetree mechanic friend b/c together they could do the maintenance to this Corolla themselves and save hundreds of dollars. Without a shadetree mechanic friend the OP (for example) is at a disadvantage from a learning POV.

[G-String]

It's not terrible, dangerous advice at all. It's simply saying that you need to keep an eye on your car, including be aware of how it drives and the sounds it makes. If something changes, ask yourself why and do something about it. There are a lot of warning signs before your tyres are so worn they're dangerous, or before your brakes or suspension goes. Why do I need to pay someone to service or inspect it all the time? I'm in it and driving it for an hour or more every single day. If the steering is pulling, or the driving feels weird, or there are any tiny noises or changes, I will notice. I've had a car with a cracked head gasket. I noticed the temperature rising when it wouldn't normally, and took it to a mechanic to find out why. I've had a car with wheel bearings that went. I noticed the sound and took it to a mechanic to find out why. I know how much tread is on my tyres because I clean my car myself and have a look at such things when I'm cleaning. I just recently had a fan belt tightened because the engine made a slight squealing noise.

I agree that just about every machine shows symptoms when they are wearing out but - the average person may not have the "knack" and never notice a problem until too late to avoid a safety issue or additional repairs. People are capable of learning but will they make the effort? Do they have a quality mentor that can point out issues that the owner of the car can learn from?

i asked OP if they had a shadetree mechanic friend b/c together they could do the maintenance to this Corolla themselves and save hundreds of dollars. Without a shadetree mechanic friend the OP (for example) is at a disadvantage from a learning POV.

True, I do not have a shadetree friend.  I will be taking my car into the shop tomorrow to have the rear brake shoes replaces at a cost of $225.  And I've done enough research online to the point where I plan on changing the transmission fluid myself. 

[Xlar]

It's not terrible, dangerous advice at all. It's simply saying that you need to keep an eye on your car, including be aware of how it drives and the sounds it makes. If something changes, ask yourself why and do something about it. There are a lot of warning signs before your tyres are so worn they're dangerous, or before your brakes or suspension goes. Why do I need to pay someone to service or inspect it all the time? I'm in it and driving it for an hour or more every single day. If the steering is pulling, or the driving feels weird, or there are any tiny noises or changes, I will notice. I've had a car with a cracked head gasket. I noticed the temperature rising when it wouldn't normally, and took it to a mechanic to find out why. I've had a car with wheel bearings that went. I noticed the sound and took it to a mechanic to find out why. I know how much tread is on my tyres because I clean my car myself and have a look at such things when I'm cleaning. I just recently had a fan belt tightened because the engine made a slight squealing noise.

I agree that just about every machine shows symptoms when they are wearing out but - the average person may not have the "knack" and never notice a problem until too late to avoid a safety issue or additional repairs. People are capable of learning but will they make the effort? Do they have a quality mentor that can point out issues that the owner of the car can learn from?

i asked OP if they had a shadetree mechanic friend b/c together they could do the maintenance to this Corolla themselves and save hundreds of dollars. Without a shadetree mechanic friend the OP (for example) is at a disadvantage from a learning POV.

True, I do not have a shadetree friend.  I will be taking my car into the shop tomorrow to have the rear brake shoes replaces at a cost of $225.  And I've done enough research online to the point where I plan on changing the transmission fluid myself.

That's awesome! Let us know how changing the transmission fluid goes :)