PVC pipe - it's easy!

[TomTX]

Previously I'd done a bit of PVC pipe work, but really ramped it up over the past couple of months. Once you get going, it's really darn easy. Other than the sticks of pipe and connectors, you really should have a PVC cutter* and a solvent welding kit. I'll link a couple of examples at the bottom. Solvent welding PVC is super easy. Read the directions on your kit! It's generally a 2-part system - first swab the connection (both sides) with the primer, then swab with the glue. Slide parts together, hold for 30-60 seconds, wait 1-2 hours before use. Done.

Last year I fixed an outdoor water line to the garden for my parents.

Recently, I put in a 4 zone homebrew irrigation system for my little orchard. Popup heads? Nah. 1/16" drill bit and poke holes where needed at each plant. Garden hose adapters for each zone, connected to a splitter at the tap. Working really well, still getting the timer dialed in.

Second: Fixed and upgraded my AC drain line. So, as you may be aware, AC drain lines can have biological growth and eventually clog. It's a good idea to put a bit of vinegar down there from time to time. Unfortunately, my existing line didn't have any kind of access port - so I kind of ignored it until it clogged. Once it clogged (after some foot dragging on my part) I cut into the existing drain line, used a long brush and a wet/dry vac to clean it out as best I could, and installed a trap with access ports. Then poured a couple of cups of vinegar down the line. Works great now. For less than $30 in parts - I already had the cutter and the solvent welding kit.

I do not get anything from the below links - though if you haven't signed up for smile.amazon.com, I suggest doing so! Costs nothing and directs a very small portion of purchases to the charity of your choice.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BMV6QU4/
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B072Q36VHX/
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-1-4-in-Ratcheting-PVC-Cutter-16PL0101-1/304217581
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-8-oz-Purple-CPVC-and-PVC-Primer-and-Regular-Clear-PVC-Cement-Combo-Pack-302483/100151579

*Yes, you could use a saw to cut pipe instead, and then spend time cleaning up burrs so that you get a clean connection. Or just spend ~$15 on the right tool for the job.

[less4success]

You can also build a lightweight bike rake using PVC. A ratcheting PVC cutter is definitely worth the money!

[dblaace]

I just did a repair Sunday. Had everything except the 3/4 threaded ends. < $5 at HD. My problem is my glue dries out before I use it all.

[MasterStache]

I have nice "heavy duty" ratcheting cutter. It's ok and works fine for smaller pipes (less than 1-1/2"). Problem is as pipe diameter increases it tends to not cut straight. I ended up buying a Milwaukee battery powered PVC ratcheting cutter. It's a beast!!! Just a buyer beware if you decide to start cutting larger pipe.

[Askel]

Wait until you try PEX. :D 

[jim555]

I re piped under the kitchen sink with PVC.  Not as hard as I thought it would be.  The old brass and iron piping literally rotted away.  Ratcheting cutter highly recommended.

[JAYSLOL]

Irrigation tech here, I don’t actually use a ratcheting pvc cutter, I find if it’s too big for my regular non-ratcheting cutter that it’s just as fast to cut through with a hacksaw that has a good blade.  Just be sure whatever way you cut pvc, that you take some steel wool to the end to remove any burrs so that when you glue on a fitting the burr doesn’t scrape away a section of glue as you connect them

[uniwelder]

Irrigation tech here, I don’t actually use a ratcheting pvc cutter, I find if it’s too big for my regular non-ratcheting cutter that it’s just as fast to cut through with a hacksaw that has a good blade.  Just be sure whatever way you cut pvc, that you take some steel wool to the end to remove any burrs so that when you glue on a fitting the burr doesn’t scrape away a section of glue as you connect them

I didn't realize there are non-ratcheting cutters.  What's the size at which you go from a cutter to hacksaw?  1/2" and 3/4" with cutter, anything bigger is hacksaw?

Could you also tell me why is it that irrigation people use pvc?  I live in an area with freezing ground, and I've seen pvc used here.  It seems like a big hassle worrying about cracked pipes and gluing fittings.  Why not black polyethylene or pex instead?

[cool7hand]

Thanks for sharing!

[TomTX]

My homebrew irrigation is a combination of 3/4" and 1/2". AC drain line is 3/4".

[JAYSLOL]

Irrigation tech here, I don’t actually use a ratcheting pvc cutter, I find if it’s too big for my regular non-ratcheting cutter that it’s just as fast to cut through with a hacksaw that has a good blade.  Just be sure whatever way you cut pvc, that you take some steel wool to the end to remove any burrs so that when you glue on a fitting the burr doesn’t scrape away a section of glue as you connect them

I didn't realize there are non-ratcheting cutters.  What's the size at which you go from a cutter to hacksaw?  1/2" and 3/4" with cutter, anything bigger is hacksaw?

Could you also tell me why is it that irrigation people use pvc?  I live in an area with freezing ground, and I've seen pvc used here.  It seems like a big hassle worrying about cracked pipes and gluing fittings.  Why not black polyethylene or pex instead?

Good questions!  I can cut a thick-walled 1” pvc pipe no problem with my non ratcheting cutters, anything over that and I hacksaw it.  I also live where it freezes, most people still use pvc, but some use black poly.  Either way it freezes enough that the system needs to be blown out to be safe, most cases the poly won’t crack, but it will expand and after a couple cycles of that it can rupture.  Also, even if the poly doesn’t break, the valves, filters, fittings, sprinkler heads etc are all pretty much going to break if they freeze.  So it really comes down to price and what the installer is comfortable or knowledgeable with or prefers.  As for pex, I have no idea, nobody in the irrigation industry uses it (for outdoor use anyway, I’ve seen it used plenty for indoor plumbing that supplies the source for light duty residential irrigation water)

[markbike528CBX]

I'm using 1 1/4" PVC for a long line to minimize pressure losses.  1" for a small run of sprinklers.  Both are probably overkill.

This is to replace some PEX 1" that has so many issues that patch fixes were not worth it.
Also the layout had me tearing out my non-existant hair.  I mean who puts piping directly underneath a run of 3" concrete, for several yards?  Who puts a 3ft thick concrete ramp on top of a irrigation pipe right next to the house?
To quote the son of a former owner of my house "That stuff was crap 20 years ago when it was installed".

I'm using one step Gorilla PVC glue.  It seems to work OK.

I'm probably not burying it quite deep enough, but as stated above, if you don't blow out your sprinkler system before the freeze, you get lots of broken stuff anyway.
At my former employment I've seen ice break 4" schedule 40 (so 1/4" thick) stainless steel pipes and valves in equipment we shipped across the US.

I'm looking for a better way than a file to dress the ends of PVC pipe cuts. 
I'm on the edge of Jayslol's PVC pipe hacksaw vs pipe cutter, so I've always used hacksaws, which leaves a furry end that won't slip into fittings.

[JAYSLOL]

I'm using 1 1/4" PVC for a long line to minimize pressure losses.  1" for a small run of sprinklers.  Both are probably overkill.

This is to replace some PEX 1" that has so many issues that patch fixes were not worth it.
Also the layout had me tearing out my non-existant hair.  I mean who puts piping directly underneath a run of 3" concrete, for several yards?  Who puts a 3ft thick concrete ramp on top of a irrigation pipe right next to the house?
To quote the son of a former owner of my house "That stuff was crap 20 years ago when it was installed".

I'm using one step Gorilla PVC glue.  It seems to work OK.

I'm probably not burying it quite deep enough, but as stated above, if you don't blow out your sprinkler system before the freeze, you get lots of broken stuff anyway.
At my former employment I've seen ice break 4" schedule 40 (so 1/4" thick) stainless steel pipes and valves in equipment we shipped across the US.

I'm looking for a better way than a file to dress the ends of PVC pipe cuts. 
I'm on the edge of Jayslol's PVC pipe hacksaw vs pipe cutter, so I've always used hacksaws, which leaves a furry end that won't slip into fittings.

Steel wool works well for me, just whip it around the cut and it takes the rough burrs off in seconds.  The cutters can leave a clean deformation (which also interferes with slipping into a fitting) instead of a rough burr that’s actually harder to remove IMO, a file works better for those

Edit: *a rough steel wool, not the light wimpy stuff.  Like gloves are mandatory rough

[MasterStache]

Irrigation tech here, I don’t actually use a ratcheting pvc cutter, I find if it’s too big for my regular non-ratcheting cutter that it’s just as fast to cut through with a hacksaw that has a good blade.  Just be sure whatever way you cut pvc, that you take some steel wool to the end to remove any burrs so that when you glue on a fitting the burr doesn’t scrape away a section of glue as you connect them

I didn't realize there are non-ratcheting cutters.  What's the size at which you go from a cutter to hacksaw?  1/2" and 3/4" with cutter, anything bigger is hacksaw?

Could you also tell me why is it that irrigation people use pvc?  I live in an area with freezing ground, and I've seen pvc used here.  It seems like a big hassle worrying about cracked pipes and gluing fittings.  Why not black polyethylene or pex instead?

My Milwaukee pipe shear can handle anything 2" or less pretty easily. I use a hacksaw for anything larger. For me that's typically vent and/or toilet drain pipes

[markbike528CBX]

I'm using 1 1/4" PVC for a long line to minimize pressure losses.  1" for a small run of sprinklers.  Both are probably overkill.

This is to replace some PEX 1" that has so many issues that patch fixes were not worth it.
Also the layout had me tearing out my non-existant hair.  I mean who puts piping directly underneath a run of 3" concrete, for several yards?  Who puts a 3ft thick concrete ramp on top of a irrigation pipe right next to the house?
To quote the son of a former owner of my house "That stuff was crap 20 years ago when it was installed".

I'm using one step Gorilla PVC glue.  It seems to work OK.

I'm probably not burying it quite deep enough, but as stated above, if you don't blow out your sprinkler system before the freeze, you get lots of broken stuff anyway.
At my former employment I've seen ice break 4" schedule 40 (so 1/4" thick) stainless steel pipes and valves in equipment we shipped across the US.

I'm looking for a better way than a file to dress the ends of PVC pipe cuts. 
I'm on the edge of Jayslol's PVC pipe hacksaw vs pipe cutter, so I've always used hacksaws, which leaves a furry end that won't slip into fittings.

Steel wool works well for me, just whip it around the cut and it takes the rough burrs off in seconds.  The cutters can leave a clean deformation (which also interferes with slipping into a fitting) instead of a rough burr that’s actually harder to remove IMO, a file works better for those

Edit: *a rough steel wool, not the light wimpy stuff.  Like gloves are mandatory rough

Thanks for the edit.  Which grade ?  https://steelwooldirect.com/grades-and-applications/