Author Topic: Two months in Canada  (Read 4270 times)

deborah

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Two months in Canada
« on: December 16, 2017, 07:41:57 PM »
I have decided that there is enough that I want to see in Canada that I am going to spend two whole months there - probably August/September/October. I have seen a bit of BC and Yukon when I drove from Seattle to Anchorage last year, and a bit of Ontario and Quebec a couple of months ago, when I also went to Greenland and Iceland. But this time it will only be Canada.

What should I see?

I was thinking of traveling from coast to coast, starting in the West and going East. When I went from Banff to Jasper there was a whiteout, so I would like to drive the Icefields Parkway again (and maybe see things this time). I definitely want to see Lake Superior again (I only just made it there before I had to turn around and go back). Both times many parks have been shut because the first time I was too early (April), and this time I was too late (arrived on Thanksgiving), so I'm hoping to see Canada when it is not shut (although I visited Victoria and Vancouver Island in May when things were not shut). Although I passed through Toronto, Ottawa and Montreal, I didn't really see them, so I want to visit them again for a few days.

I have always wanted to visit Cape Breton Island and PEI. And there is so much in between!

scottish

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Re: Two months in Canada
« Reply #1 on: December 17, 2017, 07:28:11 AM »
Are you into backcountry travel?   Canada has awesome backcountry that most people never see.

I highly recommend Kluane Park in the Yukon if you have time to go all the way up there.    There's a new summer road all the way to Tuktoyaktuk as well, although I've never gone that far.   I suspect you'd want a truck/suv on that one.

Raj

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Re: Two months in Canada
« Reply #2 on: December 17, 2017, 07:35:22 AM »
I sadly have never really left the GTA area so I'm not sure how much help I can give or how accurate some of what I say is, but in my limited opinion Canada has some awesome bike trails.

Toronto is one of the busiest and most urbanized areas of Canada but if you explore the different biking paths, you'll find that their are small forests with a variety of animals inside with beautiful scenery all about. 

Of course the trade off is that it is extremely cold in Winter which sucks out some of the fun in biking everywhere, although I occasionally manufacture a challenge by biking through the snowy sidewalk so that I have to fight to keep my balance.

Stachey

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Re: Two months in Canada
« Reply #3 on: December 17, 2017, 11:20:39 AM »
The weather in the fall in Canada is usually quite lovely and the fall colours are spectacular.
 
Driving the Trans Canada from coast to coast is a rite of passage for a lot of people. 
I know people who biked the length of it and it took them three months. 

On a cross Canada trip the looong stretches of largely unchanging scenery are Northern Ontario and the Prairies.  On the Prairies I would tell you about the mineral hot springs at Moose Jaw that people rave about  (Temple Spa).  Winnipeg has numerous great restaurants.  There are MANY great lakes to go camping between Winnipeg and Kenora (I recommend West Hawk Lake - really beautiful).   Once you get into Northern Ontario, the scenery is beautiful but it is a looong drive until you see any major towns again.  One year we swam in all five of the Great Lakes which was fun (but might be too chilly in the fall).

Have a great trip!

snacky

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Re: Two months in Canada
« Reply #4 on: December 17, 2017, 12:31:38 PM »
I would look at taking a train across Canada instead of driving. The prairies and northern Ontario are really, really big. I have driven across the prairies many times and have never even remotely enjoyed it.

deborah

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Re: Two months in Canada
« Reply #5 on: December 17, 2017, 05:21:28 PM »
THANKS!!!

I am trying to work out when tourist season is (the time when EVERYTHING is full, and I have to book). I was hoping to just rock up at places, or book for the next night from the previous place, so I can go at my own pace, and appreciate things. And when horrible bug season is. Do Canadian School children REALLY have a THREE MONTH summer school break? What on earth do working parents do?

Are you into backcountry travel?   Canada has awesome backcountry that most people never see.

I highly recommend Kluane Park in the Yukon if you have time to go all the way up there.    There's a new summer road all the way to Tuktoyaktuk as well, although I've never gone that far.   I suspect you'd want a truck/suv on that one.
I went past Kluane Park when I went to Alaska. I drove from Haines Junction to Haines and back. That was the road with a rock glacier that I walked up (I think it might actually be in Kluane Park). And the road where I met a party of about 20 bicyclists at the top the next day as I was coming back. And the road where, after seeing the cyclists, I nearly ran into a grizzly bear (or it nearly ran into me - fortunately it stopped - those bears can REALLY move), not 100 metres from the car park for the rock glacier walk. One of the major highlights of the trip.

I was looking at the road to Tuktoyaktuk. Rental cars cannot be driven on the Dempster Highway (so presumably not that road either). But there is a tour (bus, boat one way, plane the other way) that looks interesting.

The weather in the fall in Canada is usually quite lovely and the fall colours are spectacular.
 
Driving the Trans Canada from coast to coast is a rite of passage for a lot of people. 
I know people who biked the length of it and it took them three months. 

On a cross Canada trip the looong stretches of largely unchanging scenery are Northern Ontario and the Prairies.  On the Prairies I would tell you about the mineral hot springs at Moose Jaw that people rave about  (Temple Spa).  Winnipeg has numerous great restaurants.  There are MANY great lakes to go camping between Winnipeg and Kenora (I recommend West Hawk Lake - really beautiful).   Once you get into Northern Ontario, the scenery is beautiful but it is a looong drive until you see any major towns again.  One year we swam in all five of the Great Lakes which was fun (but might be too chilly in the fall).

Have a great trip!
The lakes sound good. We don't have lakes - or rather, these is the occasional lake, but most are salt pans most of the time. Are the Prairies all farms growing wheat? We have looong straight flat roads (for instance the three hours just outside Broken Hill to Peterborough is so flat for so far that you can see the curvature of the earth, and I worked out that I could see cars coming from 5km away). But it is desert, so there is the occasional tree, and spinifex. And the occasional goat or sheep. And maybe even a building, with a shop and petrol station. I find it has a beauty all of its own.

I would look at taking a train across Canada instead of driving. The prairies and northern Ontario are really, really big. I have driven across the prairies many times and have never even remotely enjoyed it.
Good thoughts. I am thinking of breaking it up and going by train for some parts, but a car can make you very flexible and allow you to go via the path less traveled. I have been on long sections in Australia - such as the road from Broken Hill to Cameron Corner (google says it's almost 10 hours), partly paved to Tibooburra (the only town on the way), and dirt from there on. Cameron Corner is a pub which also sells petrol, and you can camp there.

How much traffic is there in these stretches? Some places I've been to in Australia, I have been the only person on the road that day, but I suspect that Canada is more populous, as we have a far lower density outside the cities.

snacky

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Re: Two months in Canada
« Reply #6 on: December 17, 2017, 05:42:32 PM »
The prairies grow wheat, flax, soy, corn, sunflowers, potatoes... Lots of stuff. The main road is the Transcanada, Hwy 1. There are secondary routes, and some of them are quite pretty. The 1 is not an interesting route, but it's the fastest.
In Alberta the Badlands are really cool. The Tyrell museum is the best dinosaur museum on earth, I believe.
Saskatchewan has the Qu'Apelle valley, which is very pretty.
Manitoba has two big lakes and some really scenic parts, here and there.
From roughly the Manitoba/ Ontario border eastward is gorgeous, but gets more and more sparsely populated.

Canadian kids get two months off school in the summer. Those two months are the height of the tourist season, when roads and attractions and accommodations are packed. Also those are the buggiest months, depending on where you are. Unfortunately those are the only months that are guaranteed to be warm, and even then you can have freak snowstorms if you go north or to a high elevation. June and September are, in my opinion, the best months to travel (less crowds, less bugs) and are usually warm. October through May can be dicey, weather-wise.

MNBen

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Re: Two months in Canada
« Reply #7 on: December 18, 2017, 11:43:29 AM »
Do Canadian School children REALLY have a THREE MONTH summer school break? What on earth do working parents do?

I see you're from Australia.   US Children also get 2-3 months off in the Summer.  For most in our area, it's about End of May / Early June until End of August / Early September. 

Working parents either also aren't working (teachers), or stay at home parents, or else babysitters / camps / activities / older siblings. 

GuitarStv

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Re: Two months in Canada
« Reply #8 on: December 18, 2017, 11:46:57 AM »
Algonquin park is a wonderful place in Ontario to go camping, hiking, canoeing, or mountain biking if you're into that sort of thing.  It can be stunning in the fall when all the leaves change colour.  There are many places to stay in the area, from straight up tent in the woods all the way up to muti-star resorts.
« Last Edit: December 18, 2017, 12:01:41 PM by GuitarStv »

Daisy

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Re: Two months in Canada
« Reply #9 on: December 18, 2017, 11:53:31 AM »
PTF.

After seeing your Iceland pictures, I'm sure this will generate quite a few lovely pictures that I would like to see. Possibly at CMC 2018?

jrhampt

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Re: Two months in Canada
« Reply #10 on: December 18, 2017, 12:22:24 PM »
I am a big fan of the eastern maritimes.  I loved cape Breton and PEI.  If you're going to do another pass at Montreal,  make sure you visit Quebec City, too.  It's my favorite of the two, with great food, the old walled city, and the plains of Abraham.  I also recommend a night in New Brunswick to watch the tides (some of the most dramatic tides in the world).  If we'd had more time, I would have tried to get to Newfoundland, too.

dycker1978

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Re: Two months in Canada
« Reply #11 on: December 18, 2017, 12:50:15 PM »
I feel obligated to comment on Saskatchewan.  Southern Saskatchewan is quite flat, and full of farmland, or cattle farms.  Northern Saskatchewan has something like 10000 lakes, and is beautifully forested.  There are many things to see here.

The spa in Moose Jaw has been mentioned(it is a hot springs), but there is also one at watrus, the water there is actually able to allow you to float there is so may minerals in it.  They have an indoor facility, as well as a spring fed lake, if you are there in the summer.

The south west has the cypress hills.  These are pretty amazing, and a great place to camp.  North west/north central has a national park, Prince Albert National park, or waskeseau.  This is a beautiful area.  North central has the Nipawan regional park, and Tobin Lake.  These are word record producing fisheries.  Farther North east, you get in to the Precambrian shield.  This area is amazing.  There is lots of wildlife and huge huge fresh water lakes.

North west has Lac Laronge, which again is beautiful wilderness. 

So as to the question at hand, if you want to get across the prairies, take the number 1 trans Canada.  If you want to explore, get off of it.  It runs through the most boring part of the province.

scottish

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Re: Two months in Canada
« Reply #12 on: December 18, 2017, 05:18:54 PM »
Lake Superior.    If you're into backcountry, take the coast trail at Pukaskwa National Park.  It's a 1 day backpack to the coast at Willow River, and then the trail continues south for several days.   This route also works by sea kayak.

Alternatively, Lake Superior Park provides good access without so much backpacking.   Take the Gargantua road and you can spend a day walking along the headlands.

NinetyFour

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Re: Two months in Canada
« Reply #13 on: December 18, 2017, 05:37:20 PM »
P2F.  I am going to have some time on my hands next Fall, and might take the opportunity to do some leisurely driving up to CMC2018...  Hope you don't mind if I steal some ideas in this thread, Deborah!

Stachey

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Re: Two months in Canada
« Reply #14 on: December 19, 2017, 01:00:29 PM »
I have to add my vote for the Tyrell museum.  It is incredible.

If you like wide open spaces and from your description of home, it sounds like you do, then you will like the prairies.  The joke is that you can watch your dog run away from home for three days.  And it's true.  The sky is so huge and you can see everything in every direction all the time.  It is amazing.  I love it.  The logo on the Saskatchewan license plate reads "Land of the Living Skies" and it's so true.

You asked about traffic and some roads do require a lot of caution.
I've never been on the QE2 between Calgary and Edmonton when it wasn't busy as hell, often times with crazy asshole drivers. 
Part of the road between Calgary and Saskatoon is one lane each way (with hardly any shoulder) and I almost had a head on collision on that road due to some crazy asshole driver.
You may be sensing a theme but there are some crazy assholes driving around in Canada.  You've been warned.
Traffic in the summer (so up to Labour Day weekend) is generally heavier with vacationers.
I believe the highways around TO can be nightmarish too but thankfully I don't have to deal with them.

GuitarStv

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Re: Two months in Canada
« Reply #15 on: December 19, 2017, 01:20:42 PM »
I believe the highways around TO can be nightmarish too but thankfully I don't have to deal with them.

Traffic here is ridiculous.  The 401 stretch through Toronto is the busiest highway in North America.

Dave1442397

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Re: Two months in Canada
« Reply #16 on: December 19, 2017, 01:28:27 PM »
I believe the highways around TO can be nightmarish too but thankfully I don't have to deal with them.

No kidding. We drove from Niagara Falls to Toronto early on a Sunday, and the traffic was as bad as rush hour on a Friday evening in Philadelphia. I couldn't believe how bad it was, and there were no major events going on that day.

I drove from Banff to Jasper in a blizzard in September once. The view was definitely worth it when we drove back in sunshine a week later. The weather was very unpredictable at that time of the year. We picked up two backpackers who were huddled under an overpass wearing pretty light clothing. Once they warmed up enough to talk, they said they were from Montreal and had no idea the weather could change so fast.

It's a beautiful part of the country. We took the Rocky Mountaineer train from Vancouver to Banff, and that was a great trip.

I took my parents to Niagara Falls and Montreal last year, and we all enjoyed it. They liked visiting the vineyards around Niagara, and Montreal is a great walking/biking city.

Quebec is next on our list of places to see in Canada.

snacky

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Re: Two months in Canada
« Reply #17 on: December 19, 2017, 01:42:44 PM »
I hit a blizzard in Banff once... in July.

Canada is no joke.

KMMK

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Re: Two months in Canada
« Reply #18 on: December 19, 2017, 02:09:26 PM »
I'm with Snacky. Driving across the prairies is terrible. I've only done it three times and that was plenty. There are some nice pockets but that doesn't make up for the endless hours of boredom.

RetiredAt63

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Re: Two months in Canada
« Reply #19 on: December 19, 2017, 03:38:45 PM »
The obvious - Ottawa, national Capital, and then just across the Ottawa River is Gatineau Park. Lots of history, lots of nature.

Maritimes - Bay of Fundy tides are amazing.   Cape Breton - any Scottish heritage?  There is the Cabot Trail, there is whale-watching out of towns on the Cabot Trail, there is Fort Louisbourg. There is a Scottish village tracing the Scottish settlement (I found my family's hone number in the phone book in the 1050's house, so that was sort of special for me), and Alexander Graham Bell's home at Baddeck.  PEI is the home of Anne of Green Gables of course.

Quebec City is the oldest fortified city on the continent, I think, and masses of history.  Plus yummy food.

JoJo

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Re: Two months in Canada
« Reply #20 on: December 19, 2017, 04:30:27 PM »
I particularly liked Vancouver Island in September.  Grizzly Bear and whale watching, snorkeling with salmon.
https://thehotflashpacker.com/british-columbia/

If you have the budget, you can go up to Churchill Manitoba to see the polar bears.  It's way cheaper in August but way more bears in October.

Blissful Biker

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Re: Two months in Canada
« Reply #21 on: December 19, 2017, 05:03:05 PM »
No Canadian road trip is complete with out a good long visit to the Kootenays.  Beautiful, peaceful with happy, relaxed locals and good microbrews. 


JoJo

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Re: Two months in Canada
« Reply #22 on: December 20, 2017, 06:03:59 PM »
Sun Hat,

I really loved the central part of Manitoba, too.  Really nothing to see but it was beautiful.  The train to Churchill was great but unfortunately the track is broken now.
https://thehotflashpacker.com/road-train-to-churchill/

ElleFiji

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Re: Two months in Canada
« Reply #23 on: December 20, 2017, 07:51:28 PM »
Have you been to L'Anse aux meadows yet? It would nicely round out last year's viking settlements. I would like to go.

If you go to northernish Quebec it is very peaceful. And Quebec city and Montreal are beautiful. As are the Laurentians. And Algonquin. And northern Ontario

ahoy

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Re: Two months in Canada
« Reply #24 on: December 20, 2017, 11:18:45 PM »
I drove across Canada starting in April 2014.  We had spent a month in Vancouver but our official starting spot was the Okanaghan area.  If you love beautiful lakes, vineyards, sunshine, the Okanaghan is for you.  It really is a spectacular area.  Lake Okanaghan is approx 135km (84 miles) long.  Absolutely beautiful!

We then drove though the prairies, I did not mind this too much.  I totally under estimated the Northern Ontario going around the top of Lake Superior.  It seem to take forever.  Lovely drive, but a bit long.   Then went down to Niagara Falls, we loved the falls and Niagara-on-the-Lake.  Great areas and the Great Lakes are beautiful.   We loved Quebec, very different from the rest of the country which my family and I loved.  Quebec City and Montreal are fantastic and must-see places.  Our furthest East was PEI.  PEI is also great, highly recommend it!   Have a fantastic time!

Prairie Stash

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Re: Two months in Canada
« Reply #25 on: December 21, 2017, 09:38:14 AM »
Every part of the country has something different to offer. The prairies receive unfair criticism; I've heard a lot of praise for them as well.

Imagine a place where you can go miles without seeing anyone, then juxtapose yourself in Paris or New York where you can't go feet outside without other people. The vastness is the greatest treasure of the prairies, a place where you can truly be alone.

One of my favourite places can only be reached on foot and is next to a spring that is constantly pouring out purified water (sand filtered, its 100% free of microbes and is safe to drink). The only sounds are the wind in the trees, the animals playing and that spring flowing by. At night the owls come out and you can hear them against the back drop of coyotes in the distance. On clear nights you can watch the northern lights dancing among the treetops; on other nights its hard finding the constellations among all the stars. Lots of people find it very soothing, the utter peace and tranquility. Others find it boring because its so devoid of humanity.

In the prairies go north off the trans Canada, bring a tent. The downside is it takes a lot of time, its a slow travel option only.

Stachey

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Re: Two months in Canada
« Reply #26 on: December 21, 2017, 01:26:39 PM »
Every part of the country has something different to offer. The prairies receive unfair criticism; I've heard a lot of praise for them as well.

Imagine a place where you can go miles without seeing anyone, then juxtapose yourself in Paris or New York where you can't go feet outside without other people. The vastness is the greatest treasure of the prairies, a place where you can truly be alone.

One of my favourite places can only be reached on foot and is next to a spring that is constantly pouring out purified water (sand filtered, its 100% free of microbes and is safe to drink). The only sounds are the wind in the trees, the animals playing and that spring flowing by. At night the owls come out and you can hear them against the back drop of coyotes in the distance. On clear nights you can watch the northern lights dancing among the treetops; on other nights its hard finding the constellations among all the stars. Lots of people find it very soothing, the utter peace and tranquility. Others find it boring because its so devoid of humanity.

In the prairies go north off the trans Canada, bring a tent. The downside is it takes a lot of time, its a slow travel option only.

Most beautiful display of Northern Lights I ever saw was in Saskatchewan.  And it wasn't one night for half an hour.  It was night after night for hours and hours each night.  Absolutely stunning!

Prairie Gal

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Re: Two months in Canada
« Reply #27 on: December 23, 2017, 08:00:10 PM »
I highly recommend Nova Scotia (Cape Breton in particular) in the Fall to see the leaves turn colour. Try to hit in in mid-October. If you are interested in Celtic music, the fabulous Celtic Colours music festival is also during this time.