Vehicle maintenance for a 200k+ mile car with spotty repair history

[StealthFundip]

Hey everyone, looking to pick a few DIY-brains for the best way to approach this.

I was given my dad's old 2004 Buick Century with about 180k miles.  After going through my clown-car commute for a few months it's just under 205k and I've been considering how best to keep it running while I get my Bachelor's.  He bought it used with low mileage, but he is NOT nice to his stuff.  I know he changed the oil at least once a year/5k miles, and fixed anything that made the car unusable, but other than that I doubt he followed the recommended service intervals.

After I took charge of the car, I got the oil changed about every 5,000 miles. I also did the extremely basic stuff: check tire pressure, oil levels b/t changes, wiper blades, refill wiper fluid, replace headlights, etc.  I blew a brake line by nearly hitting a deer at highway speeds, so I got that replaced.  With my minimal car repair knowledge and the mechanic's recommendations, my list of known issues is...

• Replace cracked windshield (been pulled over twice but no ticket yet)
• Replace remaining 3 brake lines
• Get all new tires (tread very worn + winter is pretty damn close)
• Transmission has been acting up since I've been driving the car
• Probably need new pads and rotors (no jack stand to check for myself)
• Car electrical system dims when I step on the brakes/etc.  Failing alternator/battery?
• Rusting on fuel door/runners under doors

And then there's the rest of the car... I have no idea what to look for or what is worn/broken/abnormal since I've never had any vehicle in good working condition.  I like knowing the ins and outs of any object or gadget I depend on, and would love to get to know more about cars in general. I'm open to any and all recommendations.  Thanks everyone!

[zolotiyeruki]

The first thing I'd be worried about is a timing belt, but your car has a timing chain.  The transmission fluid should typically be replaced every 30,000 miles.  I don't know what the procedure is for the Buick, but on some cars you drain the fluid, fill it back up, drive around a bit to mix the new fluid in, and then repeat the process twice more.  On some cars it's a simple drain-and-refill.  I'd suggest replacing the transmission fluid filter as well in case it's been neglected.  Your brake fluid may need to be flushed, and the same with your power steering fluid and antifreeze.  If you're willing to spend a little bit of money and a few hours of time, all of these are pretty easy to do.

In general, maintenance means
1) fluids (oil, transmission, brake, power steering, coolant)
2) rubber things (belts, tires, bushings, motor mounts, etc)
3) electrical stuff (light bulbs, spark plugs, occasionally coil packs or distributor cap/rotor)
4) brakes (pads, and less frequently, rotors/drums)

The nice thing is that almost all of the things on that list are quite easy and inexpensive to DIY.  Buy a pair of jack stands and a few wrenches, and you're good to go.

Before you go all in, however, I'd replace the transmission fluid and filter and see if that affects the behavior of the transmission.  If it doesn't, take it to a transmission place and ask them to take a look.  If the car is going to die in the next 500 miles, there's little point in spending lots of time replacing brake lines, brake pads, transmission fluid, etc.

[ketchup]

Honestly, I'd just go down the maintenance schedule list and do *everything* that you know hasn't been done recently (most if not all can be DIY), and then stick to the schedule going forward.

Definitely start with transmission fluid though from the sound of things.

[StealthFundip]

...If the car is going to die in the next 500 miles, there's little point in spending lots of time replacing brake lines, brake pads, transmission fluid, etc.

Very true! I'll definitely change the transmission fluid/filter and get a professional opinion if it's still acting up. 

Honestly, I'd just go down the maintenance schedule list and do *everything* that you know hasn't been done recently (most if not all can be DIY), and then stick to the schedule going forward.

Sounds like a great start, thanks for the suggestions everyone!

[BudgetSlasher]

...If the car is going to die in the next 500 miles, there's little point in spending lots of time replacing brake lines, brake pads, transmission fluid, etc.

Very true! I'll definitely change the transmission fluid/filter and get a professional opinion if it's still acting up.

You might want to do a little googling regarding fluid changes in transmissions that are already having issues. There seems to be a belief among some, including professionals, that changing the fluid in an already compromised transmission can accelerate its failure (it is the point of view I was raised with).

For example my BIL used to drive a high milage Blazer with transmission issues and way to by his mechanic not to change the fluid for fear of failure.

The logic generally goes like this; the old fluid is warn out and has allowed a layer of varnish/sediment to deposit on many internal surfaces and when new fluid is added it acts as a solvent, dislodging these deposits in larger pieces than normal. That in turn results in the final failure as a result of clogged internal screens and filters.

I am not sure if a flush vs a change would limit the risk. And I am not saying to skip changing the fluid, just that you should be informed and aware (depending on the circumstances) of the seeming risk. And if it does fail, you'll have saved yourself the cost of the other repairs.

Honestly, I'd just go down the maintenance schedule list and do *everything* that you know hasn't been done recently (most if not all can be DIY), and then stick to the schedule going forward.

Sounds like a great start, thanks for the suggestions everyone!

In the past, this is how I have treated used car purchases. If the seller cannot provide documentation (not simply saying yes it was done) that a service was done I have treated it as not done and completed it as soon as possible after purchase (unless it being left undone so long was a deal killer).

[EricEng]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o690DovjDAc
This explains how changing transmission fluid can appear to cause an issue.  Basically the sediment has worn off the clutch grip, but is also still providing just enough grip to still function.  Flushing/changing it will remove that sediment thus revealing the failed clutch parts.  If you haven't stayed on top of the fluid, then the damage is already done...possibly.

[StealthFundip]

You might want to do a little googling regarding fluid changes in transmissions that are already having issues. There seems to be a belief among some, including professionals, that changing the fluid in an already compromised transmission can accelerate its failure (it is the point of view I was raised with).

For example my BIL used to drive a high milage Blazer with transmission issues and way to by his mechanic not to change the fluid for fear of failure.

The logic generally goes like this; the old fluid is warn out and has allowed a layer of varnish/sediment to deposit on many internal surfaces and when new fluid is added it acts as a solvent, dislodging these deposits in larger pieces than normal. That in turn results in the final failure as a result of clogged internal screens and filters.

I am not sure if a flush vs a change would limit the risk. And I am not saying to skip changing the fluid, just that you should be informed and aware (depending on the circumstances) of the seeming risk. And if it does fail, you'll have saved yourself the cost of the other repairs.

I've heard similar cautions from others, including my own dad.  His interpretation seemed to be "NEVER touch the transmission fluid", so all of his cars usually die from transmission issues around 180-200k miles, if he doesn't beat them into submission with his lead feet first. 

In the past, this is how I have treated used car purchases. If the seller cannot provide documentation (not simply saying yes it was done) that a service was done I have treated it as not done and completed it as soon as possible after purchase (unless it being left undone so long was a deal killer).

The first ~80k miles of history is unknown, but after that I know the car was most certainly NOT babied in any way.  After tallying up the cost of all the work this Buick should have done, and the expectation that the transmission might go at any time, I'm very strongly considering a $1k 100,000 mile Taurus from a local used car stealership.  I'm not completely decided yet, but I will be mulling this over for the next few days.

And EricEng, that is the very same video I watched before considering changing the transmission fluid myself!  ChrisFix is an excellent channel, and his videos are what inspired me to take better care of my personal motorized armchair.

[Car Jack]

For the tranny fluid, you're not going to be able to really do anything but check the level and top off if it's low.  Google the proper way to check it.  It's typically while in park, warm and have run through all the gear selector settings first.  The car has to be level.  If it's low, add the PROPER fluid only to the full mark.  Going too high will make the transmission react badly.  Especially when changing into drive or reverse.

If you do get those jack stands, you can drain the fluid, put in the plug, measure what you took out and just put that much back in.  This won't drain the fluid that's in the torque converter, so obviously won't get it all.  But if it's in horrible shape or burned, it'll replace a good bit of it.

I would not be overly worried about the car.  It sounds like it's going to rust itself into a heap even if you do all sorts of good mechanical work to it.

[Fjord]

• Replace cracked windshield (been pulled over twice but no ticket yet)
• Replace remaining 3 brake lines
• Get all new tires (tread very worn + winter is pretty damn close)
• Transmission has been acting up since I've been driving the car
• Probably need new pads and rotors (no jack stand to check for myself)
• Car electrical system dims when I step on the brakes/etc.  Failing alternator/battery?
• Rusting on fuel door/runners under doors

I think your list is in the right order. You need to deal with the windshield first. Being pulled over is a big deal: did you promise to fix it? They'll remember that, and it won't go well if you haven't. There's no DIY here, just pay to get it done.

The brake line bursting is not good. Most of the brake lines are steel, with rubber hose just to the wheels/axles. I'm guessing the broken one was a front hose? Get the other side replaced at least. It's not really a good first DIY project, but if you want to, you'll need flare nut wrenches and some way to bleed the line (pressure bleeders work best).

Tires are also important. You can get used tires at auto recycle places (i.e. junkyards). Not THAT cheap, but pretty cheap. Or just buy new tires: you can buy a used car to fit them if this one dies.

You don't need jack stands to check the rotors/pads. You don't really even need to take the wheels off, but it's easier if you take the wheel off of one corner. Just be sure not to get underneath it, as you can't trust jacks not to give out.

For the dimming: I'd guess a bad connection. Check the engine grounds first.

There's no point in worrying about rusting panels. Just keep it running until you sell it to the museum and they'll fix the panels.