TPR valve missing discharge pipe

[SavingMon(k)ey]

We are buying our first house (woohoo!), and while most things came back with a glowing review on the inspection report, one big thing (roof) and some small things needed attention. The roof will have to be replaced at some point, there was no negotiating. The sellers took care of all the small things but one: the TPR valve on the water heater is missing a discharge pipe. It's not a huge deal, but it bugs me that it's not up to code. I have no plumbing skills and I know it can't be just a screwed in piece of pipe. What's the mustachian way to go about this? Please don't tell me "ignore the issue", I will not be able to do that! ;)

[ncornilsen]

It's not that bad to fix. Most likely, it's 3/4" NPT. A few questions:

Is the water heater near a drain, sink, or washing machine standpipe, or some kind of floor drain?

Is the water heater in a garage with a floor drain somewhere, not necessarily near it?

Post pics if you can!

[Spork]

one more to add to ncornilsen's questions:

Is the water heater near an outside wall such that you could punch through it?


I might also add:  it's likely if you don't have a discharge on the TPR then you might also be missing a catch pan with a discharge as well.  (That's something that got added to building codes in the 1990's or early 2000's.)  I don't think you are required to add it unless you start replacing the tank... but just another thing to consider if you're reworking stuff in that area.

[Greg]

Actually you can just screw in a discharge pipe, using a little pipe dope on the threads.  The pipe needs to lead to the exterior somehow.  Something is better than nothing in this case.

[SavingMon(k)ey]

It's not that bad to fix. Most likely, it's 3/4" NPT. A few questions:

Is the water heater near a drain, sink, or washing machine standpipe, or some kind of floor drain?

Is the water heater in a garage with a floor drain somewhere, not necessarily near it?

Post pics if you can!

To answer your questions

Yes, there is a floor drain nearby.
No, it is not an option to discharge to outdoors as the heater is in the basement (and from what the code says it's supposed to end 4-6" from the ground.)
And Spork, I don't know what that catch pan would look like, I didn't read anything about that. Could you elaborate?

I thought it wasn't supposed to be threaded, am I wrong about that? If so, Would I be able to do it with tap and die or something?

Thanks for the help guys. Sorry I can't post pictures until next weekend. We're supposed to close on Friday.

[ncornilsen]

The end of the pipe that goes into the valve must be trheaded, unless it's a solder-connection. (Not likely.) The open end MUST NOT be threaded (so it's harder to cap.).  I always cut them off at an angle to make it even harder.

Just run a pipe down, within 4-6" of the floor. The floor drain is an 'Indirect waste receptor' and will satisfy code requirements. It would also meet the requirements for a drain catch pan for the water heater itself.  I assume it's a concrete floor, and if it got wet, it wouldn't damage anything right?


You will need one piece of 3/4" Galvanize steel pipe, 48" long. Cut it to length.  $10 repair.

[ncornilsen]

http://www.nachi.org/tpr-valves-discharge-piping.htm

I tried adding this to my last post as an edit, but I think the site only lets you edit once or something!

-Nick

[Spork]

And Spork, I don't know what that catch pan would look like, I didn't read anything about that. Could you elaborate?

random image search result

The theory is that if a pipe bursts, it doesn't flood, but gets funneled somewhere.  I think the insurance industry pushed this through a while back.  It's probably a good idea... but if you're not pulling the water heater, it's probably not worth doing.  It has to slide under it.

[ncornilsen]

A Pan like that, with a drain, is a must when a water heater is located in a closet or something without a drain in the floor. By the interpretation of code I've been able to sell to the two inspectors I've worked with, a cement/water proof floor with a drain is a 'catch pan'.   

I'm only clarifying so the OP understands he's good to go in this case :)

[SavingMon(k)ey]

http://www.nachi.org/tpr-valves-discharge-piping.htm

I tried adding this to my last post as an edit, but I think the site only lets you edit once or something!

-Nick

OK, so I just looked at the one in my current house (rental), and it looks exactly like the one in this helpful link (thanks!), with the copper pipe. So now I understand where it can't be threaded (the bottom). My only question that remains (sorry I'm a really novice at this and may be asking stupid questions!) is that it looks like there is a connector between the valve and the pipe. I can see the thread between the valve and the connector, but how do I get the actual pipe into the connector? Isn't that a solder-connection?

[SavingMon(k)ey]

A Pan like that, with a drain, is a must when a water heater is located in a closet or something without a drain in the floor. By the interpretation of code I've been able to sell to the two inspectors I've worked with, a cement/water proof floor with a drain is a 'catch pan'.   

I'm only clarifying so the OP understands he's good to go in this case :)

Got it. Yes, there's a concrete floor in that part of the basement.

BTW, your OP is a 33 yo woman, not too afraid of learning some DIY. ;)

[Spork]

A Pan like that, with a drain, is a must when a water heater is located in a closet or something without a drain in the floor. By the interpretation of code I've been able to sell to the two inspectors I've worked with, a cement/water proof floor with a drain is a 'catch pan'.   

I'm only clarifying so the OP understands he's good to go in this case :)

Got it. Yes, there's a concrete floor in that part of the basement.

BTW, your OP is a 33 yo woman, not too afraid of learning some DIY. ;)

I had to have one in a garage with a cement floor that sloped outwards toward the driveway.  Maybe different inspectors are interpreting that code differently.

[ncornilsen]

Probably... I can't say I haven't heard of code interpretations varying from town to town (or inspector to inspector!)

Worldstrad, I appologize for assuming your gender...

In the picture I linked to, they used copper pipe. Copper pipe typically can't be threaded directly, so you have to solder on a threaded adapter, then screw it into the TPR valve.  I personally, would use copper on something like this... I didn't suggest it, since I wasn't sure if you were comfortable soldering fittings.

If you use galvanized pipe, which you can purchase in various lengths at your favorite blue or orange box store with threads cut on both ends, itcan be screwed directly into the TPR valve with some teflon tape or pipe-dope, and won't need an adapter. 

[SavingMon(k)ey]

Probably... I can't say I haven't heard of code interpretations varying from town to town (or inspector to inspector!)

Worldstrad, I appologize for assuming your gender...

In the picture I linked to, they used copper pipe. Copper pipe typically can't be threaded directly, so you have to solder on a threaded adapter, then screw it into the TPR valve.  I personally, would use copper on something like this... I didn't suggest it, since I wasn't sure if you were comfortable soldering fittings.

If you use galvanized pipe, which you can purchase in various lengths at your favorite blue or orange box store with threads cut on both ends, itcan be screwed directly into the TPR valve with some teflon tape or pipe-dope, and won't need an adapter.

No worries on the gender assumption. It happens with screen names (and women who venture into plumbing...).
Ok, so unless I'm up for learning soldering (I don't think I am right now) I should go with galvanized pipe. 2 more questions, if you don't mind:
1) If they come threaded at both ends, does that mean I have to saw one end off to get rid of that thread? I assume so.
2) Is the threading standardized? Or do I have to ask for a specific one?

Thanks!

[ncornilsen]

1) Yes, you will need to cut one end off. If you measure how long the pipe needs to be before hand, lowes/HD typically can do that for you for free. For future projects, you can have them even re-thread the pipe ends if you're trying to put together a new piping system!

2)National Pipe Thread, or NPT, is standard. every TPR valve I've ever seen has been 3/4" NPT... so getting a 3/4" Galvanized pipe, will thread into the valve.  Note that a 3/4" pipe is NOT 3/4 inches in diameter... it's more like 1" on the outside diameter. If you measure the threaded hole in the TPR valve, it should be a little less than 1".

-Nick

[SavingMon(k)ey]

You will need one piece of 3/4" Galvanize steel pipe, 48" long. Cut it to length.  $10 repair.

Thank you so much, everybody! I can't wait to do my first mustachian repair on my first home! I'll probably tackle that next week, I'll let you know how it goes.

This is such an awesome community! I am grateful for all the advice and hope I can give back even though I'm a newbie. I do know some things about bike commuting and other mustachian living ideas...

[ncornilsen]

No problem - It's what we're all here for!
Let us know how it goes!

[SavingMon(k)ey]

In the picture I linked to, they used copper pipe. Copper pipe typically can't be threaded directly, so you have to solder on a threaded adapter, then screw it into the TPR valve.  I personally, would use copper on something like this... I didn't suggest it, since I wasn't sure if you were comfortable soldering fittings.

Went to learn a bit about soldering on the internets, and boy, that's some cool stuff you can do with a torch! YouTube is awesome. I still think I will go with galvanized for now, but it made me want to learn to solder pipes! Uhm... Is that weird? Or is that a side effect of mustachianism?

[ncornilsen]

Definitely a side effect. There is no cure, and it only gets worse with time. The only treatment is dirt under your nails and a growing collection of tools, (which are more than paid for by doing things yourself!) A side effect of this treatment is a growing sense of accomplishment and increase requests for your assistance on other people's projects. :)  The psychosis becomes so deeply embedded you enjoy the work! 

[SavingMon(k)ey]

Definitely a side effect. There is no cure, and it only gets worse with time. The only treatment is dirt under your nails and a growing collection of tools, (which are more than paid for by doing things yourself!) A side effect of this treatment is a growing sense of accomplishment and increase requests for your assistance on other people's projects. :)  The psychosis becomes so deeply embedded you enjoy the work! 

In that case, this is one bug I'm glad I caught! :)

[SavingMon(k)ey]

Here it is. Did I do it right? The thread did not go in all the way.

[Greg]

You did fine.  Pipe threads are tapered and never go all the way in.  For bonus points, you could affix more pipe leading outside somewhere but this will do.

[Kevan]

Is that black gas pipe or galvanized?

[SavingMon(k)ey]

It's galvanized. Bought a 10' length at HD for about $20. Already had the plumber's tape. Pipe does not need to go to exterior according to the documents I read, and since this is in a utility room with concrete floor and a drain about 2 feet away, I'm not too worried. This will do. Asked plumbing co. just out of curiosity, they were going to charge $80 to do this same exact job.  $60 savings, not bad. :) Thanks to all you guys!

Now I have about 7' of pipe left over. Any great ideas?

[Greg]

Get some coat hooks to hang the pipe as a curtain rod, some window screen and shower curtain hooks, and make a bug curtain for your most-used exterior door?