With any power tool where the cutter is attached directly to the motor, you want to be concerned with runout. Basically, how much play is there in the arbor. If there is play, it will transfer to the cutting edge and affect the cut. Bearings have less runout and generally last longer than bushings, but they cost more than bushings. Higher end table saws have a belt between the motor and the arbor that isolates any runout and vibration.
Make sure the miter track is 3/4" wide. I have seen cheaper saws have narrower tracks, which forces you to buy accessories from that manufacturer.
The must have for any table saw is the blade, miter tracks, and fence be parallel. The nice to have is size, weight, and dust collection.
Most importantly, please learn what causes kickback. Resist the urge to manipulate a full sheet of plywood by yourself, break it down to a manageable size with a circular saw first. Although you see plenty of YouTubers run rough cut lumber across their table saw, this too is a bad idea. If the stock does not sit flat on the table, you are increasing your risk.
The blade that comes with the saw is probably more useful as wall art, get a good blade. Get two, so you are not tempted to use the stock blade while your good one is out for sharpening.
If you are ever unsure of a cut, stop, think it through until you are comfortable. Make a paddle that you can bump with your knee to turn it off.