Author Topic: switching a switch to a switch and outlet.  (Read 316 times)

Domromer

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switching a switch to a switch and outlet.
« on: January 02, 2019, 08:31:38 PM »
I replaced a single switch with a switch and outlet. The switch is working as it should but the outlet is not getting power. Any ideas.

IMG_20190102_164000406 by Dom, on Flickr


IMG_20190102_194916930 by Dom, on Flickr

IMG_20190102_194909817 by Dom, on Flickr

Must_Stash_NM

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Re: switching a switch to a switch and outlet.
« Reply #1 on: January 02, 2019, 09:09:52 PM »
It may be that the wire feeding the switch isn't "hot" i.e. the power runs to the light fixture first and then to the switch.
This article explains it:
https://www.howtogeek.com/286829/how-to-replace-a-light-switch-with-a-switchoutlet-combo/

 

mrmoolaman

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Re: switching a switch to a switch and outlet.
« Reply #2 on: January 03, 2019, 12:21:23 AM »
This also kind of looks like its 14/3 wire that was once used (or is still used) as part of a three way switch. Is that the case?

Jon Bon

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Re: switching a switch to a switch and outlet.
« Reply #3 on: January 03, 2019, 08:06:09 AM »
Yeah its a 3 way switch.

You need to look up some diagrams on how to wire that up. It also depends on where your power(home run) is coming from, Switch #1, #2, or light.

There are a crazy number of ways to wire up a 3 way, so you gotta really pay attention. I've never done what you are doing but I assume it can be made to work.

Google is just that easy.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2_MjAbtKtU

 

Cadman

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Re: switching a switch to a switch and outlet.
« Reply #4 on: January 03, 2019, 09:33:05 AM »
Is the end goal to just have an available outlet at this box along with the switch?

First thing would be to make sure you have 120VAC available at this box. The assumption is that tucked back neutral runs to the neutral bar in your breaker box, and that black is your hot wire, but for all we know perhaps red is hot and the neutral goes nowhere. So pull all the leads, turn the breaker back on and carefully check that first with a meter. If the switch operates a light, remove the bulb so you don't get a false reading (backfeed).

If you can't get 120VAC on the meter using the neutral wire as your common, try measuring again using the ground as your common (for test purposes only). In this way, you can at least identify which is hot..black or red.

If you determine neutral isn't connected, you'll have to figure out where the other end terminates and if you can pick up a good neutral connection there.