Replacing my water heater

[frugalnacho]

I have a 40 gallon hot water heater.  About 6 weeks ago my pilot went out.  I thought it was a fluke so I relit it.  It happened about 2-3 more times over the next few days, so I thought I needed to replace it.  Then it mysteriously started working again and has been working fine for the past 5 weeks.  However, I noticed the length of time I can shower before running out of hot water is decreasing.  I know my time in the shower is the same because I have my bathroom exhaust fan on a timer.  It seems like I am running out of hot water after about 10-15 minutes now (depends on how hot I have the water set - I usually use very hot water, the wife uses only warm water so her hot water showers last longer than mine).


Does this mean the heater is on the fritz?  Should I replace it before I see any further decline in performance, or just wait for it to die?  I am afraid if I wait for it to die it will be at a really inconvenient time (perhaps while I am out of town on business for 3-4 days and the wife is at home) and not worth trying to squeeze a few extra months out of the existing one.  Plus I could easily plan a weekend and get it installed on my own terms.

The unit is only about 10 years old.  The builder who built this house cheaped out on every component possible though.  I have already had to replace cheap water valves that stop working and leak once they were turned off, and some other water shut-off valves are useless as they are permanently stuck in the open position.  We also had water in the basement (from a frozen pipe while vacant) before we bought the house, so there is a lot of corrosion and rust on everything.

[the fixer]

Check your local laws and building codes as they concern hot water heaters if you want to replace it yourself. There are lots of rules about how the work should be done, such as clearances for the pipes and exhaust ducting and requirements for an expansion tank. Your hot water heater installed 10 years ago can't just be swapped out because the new one has to be installed to today's code.

Some states might even require that a certified tech do the work, but I don't have first-hand knowledge of that.

[frugalnacho]

I won't be getting a certified tech to do the work.  I will check the local codes, but I am not concerned with breaking code unless it's going to be a safety concern or an eventual resale concern.

[phred]

Open the outlet at the bottom of the tank and drain out about a gallon.  (Do not turn off the incoming water.)  Is that water running clear?  If not drain out another gallon and check.  You may have so many mineral deposits in the bottom of the tank that they are acting as an insulator to the gas flame.  Once you've got clear water coming out determine if hot water performance has later improved. If not, then time for a new tank.

[frugalnacho]

Open the outlet at the bottom of the tank and drain out about a gallon.  (Do not turn off the incoming water.)  Is that water running clear?  If not drain out another gallon and check.  You may have so many mineral deposits in the bottom of the tank that they are acting as an insulator to the gas flame.  Once you've got clear water coming out determine if hot water performance has later improved. If not, then time for a new tank.

I will try that.  We do have hard water so I would not be surprised that was the case.

[Exflyboy]

From the symptoms you described that was exactly where my thoughts went.

i suspect its calcified up and draining is unlikely to fix it.. Worth a try but I think its bye bye time.

If your existing tank is not strapped to the wall I would recommend adding a strap kit or (or making one) not expensive and easy to do while the tank is out.

Frank

[frugalnacho]

Would it be worth me installing a water softening filter to avoid wear and tear in the future?  I don't mind drinking or washing with the hard water, but if it makes sense to prevent premature damage to another water heater, washer, furnace humidifier, etc I might do it.

[the fixer]

I should clarify: I've heard second-hand of states that require a tech to do the installation, otherwise you won't be able to sell the house. I have no idea if this is true or not, but it's worth looking into. It might be something like insurance companies or mortgage lenders will require it to be fixed, and not actually a legal/regulatory thing.

[Spork]

I've seen where a small leak in the bottom of the tank will cause a drip that puts out the pilot.  It usually is when the envelope gets heated up and expands/pressurizes slightly, causing a drip.   When the burner is lit, it's not enough to douse the pilot.  But when it isn't, it goes out.

Run some hot water somewhere (such that your main burner lights) and listen for sizzles or look and see if you see occasional bright yellow flames.  If you have a leak, replace sooner rather than wait for the calamity.

I'm sure laws vary by states, but in my state (Texas) it's perfectly legal to DIY.  There are new codes to catch water/drain away and to raise it up some minimum amount off the floor...   I think as long as you follow those, you're golden.

I would also be hesitant to drain out water from the front hose bib if you don't do it on a regular basis.  If you do it every month or so, it will be fine.  If not, that's the first time that has been turned in 20 years.  It may or may not turn off (especially if it is a cheap plastic hose bib.)

[Nords]

Would it be worth me installing a water softening filter to avoid wear and tear in the future?  I don't mind drinking or washing with the hard water, but if it makes sense to prevent premature damage to another water heater, washer, furnace humidifier, etc I might do it.

Between hard water and 10 years, it's possible that your water heater is filling up with crud.  Depending on where the temperature sensor is located, the gas might just be heating up the crud layer instead of heating up the entire tank.
http://www.familyhandyman.com/plumbing/water-heater/how-to-fix-a-water-heater-pilot-light/view-all (troubleshooting)

A water conditioner is absolutely a good idea and well worth your time.  We have a gas water heater going on 17 years and doing great, in no small part due to the water conditioner that's also going on 17 years (and also doing great).  The water conditioner will also reduce the mineral deposits around sinks, tubs, showers, and toilets-- less cleaning required.

I'm checking our rental's water heater anode rod next week.  When you buy your new water heater it's worth your time to unscrew its anode rod, wrap some teflon tape around the threads, and reinstall it.  If the water heater is going in a room with an eight-foot ceiling and the anode rod is a cheap single piece of straight metal, then it's also worth replacing it with a flexible anode rod made up of smaller segments. 

You definitely want a strap.  You may also want a leak pan with a gravity drain in case the water heater (or a valve) springs a leak. 

http://www.familyhandyman.com/plumbing/water-heater/replacing-a-water-heater/view-all
http://www.familyhandyman.com/plumbing/water-heater/extend-the-life-of-your-water-heater-by-replacing-the-anode-rod/view-all

If it's tough to get at the parts to solder them, you could try a solderless fitting like Sharkbite or Gatorbite.  I've never used PEX for a water heater installation but I've read many plumbers raving about its convenience. 

Check your local utility and govt regs to see if you get a rebate for an EnergyStar high-efficiency water heater.  Even if there's no cash incentives, the high-efficiency heaters are generally made with better components.  You'll also save a little money on gas, although it's a pretty lengthy payback.

I should clarify: I've heard second-hand of states that require a tech to do the installation, otherwise you won't be able to sell the house. I have no idea if this is true or not, but it's worth looking into. It might be something like insurance companies or mortgage lenders will require it to be fixed, and not actually a legal/regulatory thing.

Um, no. 

If a buyer knows the code (or hires a home inspector to check) then they may hold up the sale until the code issue is corrected (or at least compensated).  But there are no insurance companies or mortgage lenders who will bother to check this, even if it's a free service from the gas company.  They might hold the homeowner liable if the out-of-compliance equipment causes property damage leading to a claim, but there are no authorities that will keep you from selling a house because of a DIY repair.

[Milspecstache]

From the symptoms you described that was exactly where my thoughts went.

i suspect its calcified up and draining is unlikely to fix it.. Worth a try but I think its bye bye time.

I got 3 more years out of a completely clogged and calcified water heater.  It was so bad that I couldn't flush anything out via the drain or the outlet.  Calcium deposits are a type of 'salt' so I poured in an entire gallon of vinegar in both the inlet and outlet to dissolve the salt.  Then I had to switch the supply side to allow water pressure to flow in via the outlet and backflush the water heater after letting it sit (and I think I rocked it back and forth a few times).  When it started flowing I got a lot of crud out.  Then I hooked it back up normally and ran it a while until no vinegar smell came forth.  This allowed the water heater to function about 3 more years before it started leaking.

The savings was I was building a house and that delayed the $400 bill or so for 3 years (huge benefit when doing cashflow).

[fixer-upper]

It could be a bad thermocouple.  It's the metal wire that goes in to make sure the gas shuts off when the pilot light goes out.

[phred]

[quote author=Spork link=topic=16157.msg258490#msg258490 date=1396382156

I would also be hesitant to drain out water from the front hose bib if you don't do it on a regular basis.  If you do it every month or so, it will be fine.  If not, that's the first time that has been turned in 20 years.  It may or may not turn off (especially if it is a cheap plastic hose bib.)
[/quote]

If it won't turn off, screw a hose nozzle onto it and shut that off instead