The Money Mustache Community
Learning, Sharing, and Teaching => Do it Yourself Discussion! => Topic started by: Fugawe on July 16, 2013, 11:00:40 AM
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I'm planning to replace my front door/frame. The thing leaks so much air it'll blow out a lighter.
But while I am a handypants, I've never installed an exterior door. The first thing is why are the fibre/composite doors more expensive than steel? I'd a thought it would be the other way around.
But the thing I notice (my house was built in 1962) is that the walls are not 2X4. They're more like 2X3's.
I'm planning on a new steel door similar to the one in this jpg. So I guess my question is; what should I consider when installing the frame onto the smaller studs around the opening?
Comments and questions appreciated
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I haven't shopped for a new door lately so I'll limit my comments--if you're correct about the stud dimension then your wall dimension (sheathing + stud + sheetrock) is going to be say, 4" instead of 4.5". Should be fine though, your door will come prehung in a jam, usually the jam will be 5.5" wide and end up flush on the inside with your sheetrock, then you apply casing trim to overlap the jam, right? In your case you could either mill a custom casing, that has a rabbet such that it is say, 1" stock, and has the rabbet cut to lap over the jam. Or, you could run casing straight up against the jam too. Would work fine, just not quite standard.
From the picture I wouldn't be surprised if you need to do a bit of carpentry under the threshold, too, it looks a bit beat up.
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Steel doors are less expensive because they dent so easily. My builder DID NOT WANT a steel door installed. He says when people buy them, they get installed and he has to replace them before move in due to dings from construction.
Doors are a bit of a black art. If you fiddle with it eventually, you can get it square/plumb. I've done a handful over time (struggling each time) and I put in something like 17 doors in my current house. I eventually got better at it by the time I was done.
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I'll second that steel clad doors dent easily. The edge is solid wood, but usually the center is foam. In addition to dents, there usually is no warranty against rust, and they're more trouble to paint.
A fiberglass door will last longer, will not dent, and is easier to paint.
That said, the problem might not be the door or frame, but the weatherstripping. Some closed-cell foam applied against the stop of the jamb might be all you need.
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I'll second that steel clad doors dent easily. The edge is solid wood, but usually the center is foam. In addition to dents, there usually is no warranty against rust, and they're more trouble to paint.
A fiberglass door will last longer, will not dent, and is easier to paint.
That said, the problem might not be the door or frame, but the weatherstripping. Some closed-cell foam applied against the stop of the jamb might be all you need.
...but get the low expansion foam! The expansion of normal foam can take a door or window out of square or change the margins on the installation.
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Cool, I'll see if I can find a reasonably priced fiberglass one. Whomever installed this just put a door slab into existing 1962 era frame so that is def the issue. Threshold does need some work, Appreciate the feedback
Fugawe (the legendary Indian Tribe)
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I'd advise to get a pre-hung door. Don't try to rehang your own doors if you're a novice.
I* just replaced a single door with a double, and a single back door. Went with mahogany, nice solid weight and feel, will stain beautifully. I think an entry door is something to not skimp on.
A single 36" prehung door with 4 double glazed low e glass panes in true wooden miniwindows, 6 ' 8" (standard) was $550.
* my contractor!
And 2x4 was never actually that dimension. It's about 1.5" x 3.5" in reality. Always has been. ( I just measured an exposed 1936 2x4 and a 2013 one right next to it, btw)
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If I remember correctly, it is rough cut to 2x4. The planing and kiln drying shrinks it. I suspect there was also less exact measurement in earlier construction. I've seen barns where the lumber was obviously larger than it is today.
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We have some bookshelves from the early 30s. The 1x8 boards are actually 1" thick.
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Okay. So that was about steel doors and the dent factor. I am planning for fiber glass doors. I guess the dent and scratch is minimum with this option. What is your opinion?
Found some posts enhance my search criteria:
http://doublehungwindowsblog.wordpress.com/2013/07/24/fiberglass-doors-for-a-classy-entrance/
http://www.pinkinki.net/beautiful-home-with-fiberglass-entry-doors/
It will be better to get multiple quotes from window and door installers. I think this can help us to get a good deal in our budget.
http://www.clerawindows.com/blog/getting-multiple-quotes-on-windows-and-doors-will-save-you-money/ explains the same.
Please comment your ideas and opinions.
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We went with fiberglass. We're at about 1.5 years in with a house design that has a whopping 6 exterior doors. (The house really isn't that big... it's just how we ended up laying it out that has a ton of doors.) Our fiberglass doors are still in good shape from a dent perspective.
You *can* hang them yourself. It takes a bit of practice. Prepare that first one to take a long time. Make absolutely sure it is plumb and square and that all your margins around the edges are exactly the same..
One gotcha with currently manufactured doors: Many have a plastic trim. Usually it is around windows that are in the door. You've got 2 choices with these trim bits: Either leave them their natural color (usually white) or go to a real paint store (like Sherwin Williams) and ask them for the type of primer you'll need. It is a similar primer to what is used on plastic car bumpers. If you do not prime them with this, the paint WILL scratch off. If you have dogs, it will scratch off in a matter of a few days. (Ours were professionally painted and they absolutely assured us that this was silly talk and we didn't need to do that. A month later, you can see everything my dogs can reach.)