Replace electric water heater: DIY?

[CB]

Our water heater is putting out brownish hot water; I flushed it completely but the brownish tinge is coming back--it's not really nasty but if we fill up the bathtub it's noticeable.  The heater is nearly 20 years old and unfortunately it's probably time for a new one.  Some questions:

(1) Where is a good place to get a new water heater, and what quality level?  Lowe's/Home Depot carries a wide variety with the main difference being length of warranty which I assume is an indicator of component quality
(2) Is this a DIY job?  I have only sweated copper pipes once before (and I don't own a torch) but I can get some help physically moving the heater itself (50 gallon).  On one hand, I hate to pay a plumber to do it, but on the other hand I don't want to leave my family without hot water for a weekend (or longer) while I try to unfuck whatever I may do wrong.

Thanks for any advice!

[Woodshark]

Yes, you can do it. Go here.
http://www.thehomeshow.com/howtos/water_heater/wheater.html
and here.
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/h2installwaterheater#.UIVzpFKk-_M

Electric is easier than gas. I've changed my gas water heater and it was not too bad. If you can't solder a joint, I bet you have a friend, neighbor or relative who can.

As far as brands go, I was told that they are all built about the same. More $$ just gets you more warranty.  To keep the plumbing simple I would recommend getting the same size and height heater as your old one.

[AJ]

We are in a similar spot - though our current one hasn't actually died yet, but it is due. I'm interested to see the responses. We have been looking at Marathon water heaters, which have a lifetime warranty (and a better rebate from our electricity company), but I'm not sure if it justifies the additional expense.

[strider3700]

No need to solder if it's a big deal.   I just replaced mine a few months back.  Because my connection between the tank and the rest of the house was PEX  to make the system pass code the first foot of the line has to be metal.  So the guys at the hardware store recommended two 1 foot long braided flexible lines  one end screwed directly to the tank the other end was a shark bite fitting.  Just push it onto your existing line.  They were about $10 each.     My 4 year old could handle that part of the install.  The wiring is also easy if you stay with the same size/power usage tank.  Turn off the breaker. open the panel on the side of the tank, remove the wire nut,   pull out the wire.  on the new tank just do the reverse.     

There is a difference between the tanks.  the longer the warranty usually the more insulation on the tank and it will have more/bigger anodes in it.  Having said that I bought a 6 year warranty added more insulation on the outside and will check and replace the anode every few years.   

I'd also recommend adding a loop to the hot water going out to work as a heat trap if you're changing the plumbing up at all.    since my plumbing was pex I just force the water to flow down then over then up after leaving the tank.  This stops the hot water from constantly rising up into the plumbing cooling down and then falling back into the tank.  It plus the extra insulation has made a big difference on how much energy the tank uses. 

[CB]

No need to solder if it's a big deal.   I just replaced mine a few months back.  Because my connection between the tank and the rest of the house was PEX  to make the system pass code the first foot of the line has to be metal.  So the guys at the hardware store recommended two 1 foot long braided flexible lines  one end screwed directly to the tank the other end was a shark bite fitting.  Just push it onto your existing line.  They were about $10 each.

Thanks for that, I had been just thinking about going out and buying a torch, flux, etc.  I'll have a closer look at our current connections and see what will work best, I had forgotten about shark bite fittings.

[Jamesqf]

Shouldn't have to solder anything, most just have screw-on connections.  Also the heater itself is not all that heavy, once you've drained it.  Replaced mine a couple of years ago, and it was about a 2-hour job.

[CB]

I'd also recommend adding a loop to the hot water going out to work as a heat trap if you're changing the plumbing up at all.    since my plumbing was pex I just force the water to flow down then over then up after leaving the tank.  This stops the hot water from constantly rising up into the plumbing cooling down and then falling back into the tank.  It plus the extra insulation has made a big difference on how much energy the tank uses.

Do you mean a "dip" in piping down below the level of the heater before it heads out to the rest of the house?  If could link me to a visual example that would really help.

Thanks!

[strider3700]

Here's mine.  the trap is just the little U you see on the wall.  3 90's and some short pieces of pex.



Right now the pipe temp behind the insulation at the top of the trap on the tank side right now is 30.3C  at the bottom of the trap it's 22.6.  without the trap that hot water would just keep  moving along the pipe until it loses enough heat to stop spreading.

[TheDude]

Wow awesome visual. I never really thought about that but it makes perfect sense.

This website is really awesome. When I have to replace my water heater I am going to add a second rod and a new drain like they recommend.

http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/

[CB]

Here's mine. 

Sweet, thanks for the visual, that helps a ton.

[TomTX]

Replacing a water heater is VERY doable. I have replaced two water heaters (different houses) - both times, the cost/durability/efficiency matrix took me to the Sears PowerMiser 12*. Mine was gas both times, though. As noted above, electric should be even easier.

*Unfortunately the first time the extra insulation on the 12 meant it would not fit in the narrow water heater closet, so I went with the Power Miser 9.

[ArizonaRed]

Just a note about the temperature pressure relief valve line (TPR). The water line that exits the water heater if the TPR valve goes CANNOT be flexible copper tubing.  Yes it's easier but flex isn't rated for the kind of pressure that will be running through that line if the TPR valve goes.  Just google water heater explosions and you'll get an idea of the force that a water heater contains.  Also make sure that the line had a slight downward slope.

[strider3700]

in my picture you can see the white tube connected to the TPR valve it's on the right hand side of the tank and is most visible where the cold water comes in at the bottom.  The white tube is specifically meant for this purpose, and cost something like $5. Home depot had two sizes,  1 for a 40 gallon 1 for a 60 gallon tank.  It's cheaper then building one out of copper or even Pex when you took the pieces into account.  My old tank was a 40 gallon and had the TPR on the top,  the new 60 gallon had it on the side.   

[ArizonaRed]

The only potential issue I see is that your discharge pipe goes up.  While it probably wouldn't cause any problems if the TPR valve discharges, the elevated line isn't "up to code."  As long as you own your house it won't be a problem but when you go to sell it a good home inspector will regard it as an action item in his report and it'll have to be changed unless the buyer doesn't care. (I'm a home inspector and have seen this in 10-15% of homes thus far so it is a pretty common occurrence)  Well done on doing the installation yourself!  Most people pay someone to do it even though it really isn't that difficult.

Here is a good article on TPR valves. http://www.ashireporter.org/HomeInspection/Articles/The-Temperature-Pressure-Relief-Valve/1568

[strider3700]

nope mid way up on the right hand side you'll see the tag attached to the TPR.  The tube goes down from there with the end being inside the pan at the bottom.    The thing coming up on the side from the bottom is the cold water intake as this is a bottom entry tank. 

[Bakari]

If you have to replace it anyway, now is the time to go tankless.
Just as easy to install, less money upfront (as long as you shop online, and not at Home Depot / Lowes), and much less energy use in the long run, plus you never run out of hot water.

I just finished writing about mine in this thread:
https://forum.mrmoneymustache.com/ask-a-mustachian/hot-water-heater-to-tank-or-not-to-tank/

so I won't repeat it all

[CB]

If you have to replace it anyway, now is the time to go tankless.
Just as easy to install, less money upfront (as long as you shop online, and not at Home Depot / Lowes), and much less energy use in the long run, plus you never run out of hot water.

Have you run across any whole-house (family of four) sized units that are reasonably-priced and can run off a single 30A breaker?  We have no natural gas service at our location; the whole-house electrics I've seen all require 60A service (I would need to pay a licensed electrician to modify) and start around $500, even online.  A 50-gallon direct replacement is $280 at Lowe's.  As much as I'd love tankless I don't think it's a reasonable option for us.

[Nords]

A 50-gallon direct replacement is $280 at Lowe's.

You're going to expend the same effort to install a crappy water heater or a high-quality one.

Compare the efficiency rating of the Lowe's model to the selection at a real (specialty) plumbing store.  For example Bradford-White and Rheem carry lines of very high efficiency water heaters.  More cash up front, same labor, much lower energy use over the next 20 years.  Start here:http://www.energystar.gov/ia/new_homes/features/WaterHtrs_062906.pdf

Things to check before you buy:
1.  Is it worth installing solar water heating in your area?  That depends on your winter weather, local/state subsidies, and the local electricity prices.
2.  How hard is your water?  Is it worth adding in a whole-house water conditioner while you're replacing the water heater?
3.  Does your local electrical utility offer you a rebate for buying EnergyStar, a particular brand, or efficiency rating?
4.  Does your local utility offer a "load-shedding" program?  Our HECO pays us $3/month for the privilege of connecting a pager to a circuit breaker on the water heater.  When the island's electrical load gets too high, they can dial that pager number and pop the breaker on my water heater (along with a few thousand other homeowners) instead of cranking up another electrical generator.  The outage is only supposed to last for an hour or two, and I have never noticed it ever happening (it doesn't report its status).  But I notice the $3 discount on my monthly electric bill.
5.  Does your local utility or trash service offer you cash to haul away your old water heater?  This encourages homeowners to upgrade.
6.  Due to their construction, water heaters have to be hauled in an upright position-- usually a pickup truck or a delivery van.
7.  Before you install the water heater, remove the anode rod and install Teflon thread tape.  Then put it back in and torque it as tight as you can.  This requires the special tools of a 1 1/16" socket (probably a 3/8" drive) and maybe a breaker bar.  It makes it much easier to check the anode rod every 2-3 years to ensure that you'll get at least 20 years out of your new heater.
8.  You probably want a water heater blanket, and you probably want to install that before the earthquake strapping.
9.  As noted earlier, buy yourself a new pressure-temperature relief valve.  Don't re-use the old one.
10.  You may want to replace the valve on the water supply to the heater.  It's probably 20 years old too.
11.  After you drain the water out of the old heater, you may still need an equipment dolly and strapping to get it out of the house.  Those mineral deposits really put on the weight.

[Bakari]

Have you run across any whole-house (family of four) sized units that are reasonably-priced and can run off a single 30A breaker?  We have no natural gas service at our location; the whole-house electrics I've seen all require 60A service (I would need to pay a licensed electrician to modify) and start around $500, even online.  A 50-gallon direct replacement is $280 at Lowe's.  As much as I'd love tankless I don't think it's a reasonable option for us.

How often are all 4 of you showering at once?  There isn't generally any reason to need more water heater just because its a bigger house. 
Put a bucket in your shower, turn on the hot water tap, run it for one minute, measure how many gallons of water came out. If its a low-flow (which it should be!) it shouldn't be more than 2-2.5
In which case you don't really need more than a 2.5-3gpm water heater.
Most units meant for a "whole house" do require 60A service, but there are plenty of "point-of-use" ones that only require 30A / 110V.  Even the larger ones which require 60A start at less than $200
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=electric%20tankless%20water%20heater&_fscr=1

[CB]

Bakari, peak demand is probably two people showering (two kids getting home from soccer practice at the same time) but you're right, our water needs can probably be met with a smaller tankless, e.g. one kid can wait 5 minutes until the other finishes showering, don't do showering and laundry at the same time, etc.  It's tempting to just experiment with a small one and see how it goes, but the reviews on many of the cheaper ones indicate a lot of dissatisfaction, either with lack of sufficient temperature rise or units not triggering under typical flow conditions.  Another complication is that there's a high probability we will be moving within the next year or two; not sure how an unconventional setup will affect resale--I can just imagine a home inspector recommending a buyer completely replace the water heating system despite the fact that it works great for us. 

Nords, thanks for all of the great pointers and ideas--I just checked and our local electric utility has a $700 rebate on heat pump water heaters!  One catch (other than the fact that HP water heaters start around $1000) is that to qualify it has to be professionally installed (probably <$200?).  But $1k for a heater + ~$200 install - $700 rebate = $500 for a water heater that should use less than half the amount of electricity the current one does.  Not a bad deal if I'm already looking at ~$300 for a cheapo that I install myself.  Solar WH would probably be good option (we're in Florida) but I doubt we'd live in the house long enough to recoup the costs, even including the 30% federal tax credit.

[Nords]

Solar WH would probably be good option (we're in Florida) but I doubt we'd live in the house long enough to recoup the costs, even including the 30% federal tax credit.

I think the solar water payback is 3-8 years, depending on whether you have a state or local utility subsidy.

Of course if you have teenagers taking hot saunas showers several times a day, then the payback is about 10 minutes.  Our electric bill matches day-for-day to the periods when our daughter's home from college.

[CB]

I think the solar water payback is 3-8 years, depending on whether you have a state or local utility subsidy.

We have a $1k local utility subsidy for Solar HW, the money for 2012 is gone.  It may be moot; payback for our location based on the couple of calculators I've played with is ~7 years, a bit too long for us.  I'm leaning towards a heat pump WH but need to do more research...

[strider3700]

A heat pump water heater draws it's heat from the room that it is in.  In Florida that may be useful. Here in Canada it would be fighting my heating system for close to half the year.  For install they are pretty much the same as an electric except you'll need somewhere for the condensate to drain to.   If you don't have a floor drain to run it into you'll need to get a pump and pump it outside. I don't know if that's included with the heater or an extra.   Also I've heard stories of plumbers charging way more to install heat pump heater simply because it's new and different even though it's easy.

[Matte]

Might want to check local regulations and insurance.  Not sure what state yor in but here in bc Canada you need to get a permit from city hall to install any gas appliances.  It's about $50, and that includes a follow up inspection and you get an approval decal/paperwork.  They are pretty good when you get the permit on giving tips and what they want to see.  I did this with my high eff furnace, I hired a guy cash on a Saturday, installed it with him, he had the tools and know how then I just told the inspector I did it myself, partly true!  Beats paying a contractor to install it big time.

[Tami1982]

6.  Due to their construction, water heaters have to be hauled in an upright position-- usually a pickup truck or a delivery van.

Thank you so much for linking me to this!  I had no idea and was about to go stick on in the back of my friend's SUV.  Going to have to borrow my brother's truck. 

[Nords]

6.  Due to their construction, water heaters have to be hauled in an upright position-- usually a pickup truck or a delivery van.

Thank you so much for linking me to this!  I had no idea and was about to go stick on in the back of my friend's SUV.  Going to have to borrow my brother's truck.

That "*crack*tinkle" noise you almost heard was the cold-water inlet pipe hanging down from the top of the water heater to the bottom of the tank, and banging against the tank's glass inner liner...