Oil Change

[Frugalteacher]

So I know this incredibly unmustachian of me, but I always use to change my own oil. With a new oil change due I decided now was the time to start doing it for myself instead of paying someone. So I went to Pep Boys and bought a new oil filter and oil and proceeded to spend 30 minutes changing the oil in my car. The whole thing was a lot easier than I thought, and while I know this is the bare minimum of automotive knowledge I was actually rather proud of myself for doing it on my own instead of paying someone. Despite all this I found that after purchasing the oil and filter I only saved $2 from what I would have if I'd had someone else do it. Does anyone have any tips for where to buy cheap oil or how to do this in a more economical way?

[Spork]

So... I go the other direction.  I actually buy expensive oil and oil filters. 

I buy Mobil 1 for most of my cars (and Castrol Syntec for the one outlier).  I buy it at Sams (because I don't have a CostCo).   I also buy Wix filters, usually from Amazon.  (There are other premium filters out there that are approximately as good).

The end result is: my oil change is slightly higher than the oil change place down the street..... but I do it half as often. 

[Mr.Macinstache]

Lots of times the oil change is a losing cost for a shop. But around here, they aren't cheap anymore. They charge $40-50 for an oil change and they use the cheap stuff. No thanks, I'll pay half that. That includes premium oil and filter. Plus I can do an overall check on other items with the car.

Never trust those Jiffy lube or quickie oil change places. Those kids will ruin your car. Google some of the stories. Saving a few pennies there can cost you many dollars later on.

[prodarwin]

The end result is: my oil change is slightly higher than the oil change place down the street..... but I do it half as often.

And it takes you less time.

[Spork]

The end result is: my oil change is slightly higher than the oil change place down the street..... but I do it half as often.

And it takes you less time.

I live in the boonies.  "Down the street" is ... a ways off.  It takes a lot less time.

[prodarwin]

"Down the street" for me is probably <1 mile.  Its still faster to do it myself :)

[The Money Monk]

Around here it is only $20 for an oil change, many times with coupons only 16 bucks or so. At those prices it is cheaper to let them do it. ANd you don't have to worry about bringing the used oil somewhere, etc. I do the oil changes on my bike because it would be like $80 for some reason, but for car oil changes it would actually cost me MORE to do it myself.

[ender]

Around here it is only $20 for an oil change, many times with coupons only 16 bucks or so. At those prices it is cheaper to let them do it. ANd you don't have to worry about bringing the used oil somewhere, etc. I do the oil changes on my bike because it would be like $80 for some reason, but for car oil changes it would actually cost me MORE to do it myself.

Same. The hassle of getting rid of used oil and storing everything when you rent is worth it for me, especially when the cost is pretty similar (if you do fully synthetic you do pay a premium, though).

[exranger06]

Stock up on oil when it's on sale. Oil companies often have free-after-rebate oil offers. I can buy 5 quarts of conventional oil for $13, 5 quarts of synthetic for about $17 on sale.

[Spork]

Around here it is only $20 for an oil change, many times with coupons only 16 bucks or so. At those prices it is cheaper to let them do it. ANd you don't have to worry about bringing the used oil somewhere, etc. I do the oil changes on my bike because it would be like $80 for some reason, but for car oil changes it would actually cost me MORE to do it myself.

Same. The hassle of getting rid of used oil and storing everything when you rent is worth it for me, especially when the cost is pretty similar (if you do fully synthetic you do pay a premium, though).

It is very likely you're getting the absolutely cheapest grade oil and filter for $16-20.  (Maybe not... maybe it's a loss leader and they're putting $35 worth of synthetic in there.... but I doubt it.)

Disposal is really not a problem.  I have 2 5 gallon buckets.  When they're full, they go to the nearest "oil change place".  That means I go to the oil change place once every couple of years.  If you're going there every 3000 miles to get an oil change, going every 2 years is (IMO) easier.

[Greg]

As others have said you can get oil when it's on sale, or in bulk containers like the gallon jugs many brands now come in.  NAPA and other webistes have specials where they send you coupons etc.

I change my own oil for same reasons as others have said, for piece of mind, for convenience, and because I can (that's the Mustachian part).  I do all of my own automotive work, it's a rewarding hobby, and hey, tools.

I too have heard horror stories of the oil change centers.  The one time long, long ago I went to one they could tell I took care of my car, so they showed me that the filter needed changing (oil stained).  The cost of the filter was much higher from them than the local parts place.

[ender]

Disposal is really not a problem.  I have 2 5 gallon buckets.  When they're full, they go to the nearest "oil change place".  That means I go to the oil change place once every couple of years.  If you're going there every 3000 miles to get an oil change, going every 2 years is (IMO) easier.

For those of us living in apartments, finding places inside to store multiple 5 gallon buckets containing used oil is not exactly high on the list of things to do.

It's a messy hassle, not to mention that with the number of times I've moved in the past 10 years, hauling a box of "oil change stuff" around is also not high on the list.

[SavingMon(k)ey]

So glad this post came up. I've been considering learning how to change the oil on my Subaru. Not sure it would be cheaper, but at some point I might have the time to learn it and be sure it's being done well, like you guys are saying. What items would I need to buy and what's a good resource to find a good filter/oil for my car so I can compare prices with my mechanic's oil changes?

[FunkyStickman]

So glad this post came up. I've been considering learning how to change the oil on my Subaru. Not sure it would be cheaper, but at some point I might have the time to learn it and be sure it's being done well, like you guys are saying. What items would I need to buy and what's a good resource to find a good filter/oil for my car so I can compare prices with my mechanic's oil changes?

Good for you! WHat I've done is when I'm in Wal-Mart or such, I'll use their filter reference book to find the filter part# or equivalent. Then I'll either buy the filter and oil there if it's on sale, or shop around.

You will need oil (duh!) and a filter, probably a catch pan. You'll also need some way to get the car off the ground. Ramps are the easiest and safest, don't use the tire jack!!! You'll need a socket and ratchet to get the drain plug out. Probably a few shop towels wouldn't hurt. You may also need an oil filter wrench to get the old filter off, they're not that expensive.

Synthetic oil is more expensive, but it does last longer, and make the car run smoother and last longer (this has been proven, it really does). I get a nice filter and 7 quarts of synthetic for my car (yeah, I know... it's supercharged, has a deep oil pan...) and it costs me about $60. My van's oil changes cost about half that.

[Paul der Krake]

I use premium oil for high mileage cars and it costs me what a basic oil change would at the cheapest place around. I don't hit anywhere close to the mileage limit for that blend of synthetic (15k according to the label), so I just do it right before renewing the registration every 12 months so I don't have to remember when I last did it.

I could probably stretch it out more but I feel like a million bucks when all of my "can't skip" car stuff (taxes + oil change) comes out at under $100 every 12 months.

[SavingMon(k)ey]

So glad this post came up. I've been considering learning how to change the oil on my Subaru. Not sure it would be cheaper, but at some point I might have the time to learn it and be sure it's being done well, like you guys are saying. What items would I need to buy and what's a good resource to find a good filter/oil for my car so I can compare prices with my mechanic's oil changes?

Good for you! WHat I've done is when I'm in Wal-Mart or such, I'll use their filter reference book to find the filter part# or equivalent. Then I'll either buy the filter and oil there if it's on sale, or shop around.

You will need oil (duh!) and a filter, probably a catch pan. You'll also need some way to get the car off the ground. Ramps are the easiest and safest, don't use the tire jack!!! You'll need a socket and ratchet to get the drain plug out. Probably a few shop towels wouldn't hurt. You may also need an oil filter wrench to get the old filter off, they're not that expensive.

Synthetic oil is more expensive, but it does last longer, and make the car run smoother and last longer (this has been proven, it really does). I get a nice filter and 7 quarts of synthetic for my car (yeah, I know... it's supercharged, has a deep oil pan...) and it costs me about $60. My van's oil changes cost about half that.

Thank you! I wonder if I can find some used ramps on Craigslist. No worries, I know not to use the tire jack unless I want to become a flap jack, which I don't.

[Greg]

You can probably get used ramps, but honestly they may not be something you want to be cheap on.  They will be holding up the 2+ ton car over your head while you work.  Safety first.

Never trust the tire jack, or even a hydraulic jack to work under.  Always use ramps, or jack stands after lifting the car, and set the car down on the stands.

Some vehicles you don't even need to lift, my Vanagon is like that, lots of room underneath to work with it safely on the ground, so check first if you even need to lift it.

Ramps can be tricky, you have to firmly jam the leading edge under the tire to get it started, or it will scoot away as you try to drive up on them.  Use the hand brake when you are up on top.

[2527]

I've been using cheap $20 coupons to get the oil changed in my cars for 30 years.  My mechanic brother advised me to have it done every 5,000 miles because it is easy to remember (5-10-15-20, etc), and, in his experience, good enough.

I've taken cars to the following mileages:  110,000 (Dodge Omni)...105,000 (Porsche)...105,000 (VW Jetta)...120,000 (Geo Prizm) ...110,000 (Honda Civic)...125,000 (Buick Century), and I have never had trouble with the engine due to wear and tear.  I've sold a car either because I was moving and it didn't fit my future needs (Prizm), everything else was falling apart on the car, i.e., upholstery, headliner, trunk lifts, other mechanic systems (Omni, VW, Buick), or I got tired of the car (Porsche).

That's my experience with oil changes.

[Spork]

You may not need ramps.  Unless your car is really low to the ground, you can usually just reach in and undo the plug -- no jack, no ramps.  The only car I have to raise is my Triumph, but the pan won't even fit under the frame, so... it's sort of required with that one.

[rjbf65]

I have a funny story on this subject.  I have a shop right across the street from my work.  I literally park it there and walk.  It is $40 every time but it is just so dang convenient.  One time I picked my car up after work and made it about 6 miles before it died.  I called the shop and luckily the owner was still there.  My car was out of oil. Not a drop left.  He came and gave me a ride home and investigated the problem the next day.  Turns out that the filter was a recall from Valvoline.  The shop owner replaced my engine with one that had 110000 miles less than the previous one.  He backed up his shop and took care of me. 

[JR]

Just a note to those of you questioning what to do with used oil. In the US any Autozone or Advanced Autoparts store will take your used oil for free (they sell it).

[secondcor521]

Couple of minor comments:

1.  Walmart has pretty cheap oil.  Cheaper than Autozone around here I think.
2.  I believe my community has a oil recycling program, so I can just set it out on the curb in 1-gallon plastic milk jugs.  Voila, no used oil problem.
3.  Once you learn how, you don't really need a filter wrench.  Screw it on until it begins to touch the engine block, then about 2/3 of a turn further will get it on tight enough not to leak but loose enough to where you can get it off next time with just your hands.
4.  I change my oil in the street in front of my house where I can park the right-hand wheels of the car up on the curb and the left-hand wheels in the street.  That gives me plenty of room to work underneath my Toyota Corolla.
5.  The one tool I use that wasn't mentioned previously is an oil funnel.  That way you can buy the 5-quart oil jugs and avoid splashing oil outside the engine.

I do mine every 5K miles too because that way I can just look at the odometer and know where I stand.  I just did the 195K mile oil change and the darn thing is still going strong.  (I'd like a new car but this one is not giving me any good reason to get rid of it.)

[Mr.Macinstache]

Couple of minor comments:

1.  Walmart has pretty cheap oil.  Cheaper than Autozone around here I think.
2.  I believe my community has a oil recycling program, so I can just set it out on the curb in 1-gallon plastic milk jugs.  Voila, no used oil problem.
3.  Once you learn how, you don't really need a filter wrench.  Screw it on until it begins to touch the engine block, then about 2/3 of a turn further will get it on tight enough not to leak but loose enough to where you can get it off next time with just your hands.
4.  I change my oil in the street in front of my house where I can park the right-hand wheels of the car up on the curb and the left-hand wheels in the street.  That gives me plenty of room to work underneath my Toyota Corolla.
5.  The one tool I use that wasn't mentioned previously is an oil funnel.  That way you can buy the 5-quart oil jugs and avoid splashing oil outside the engine.

I do mine every 5K miles too because that way I can just look at the odometer and know where I stand.  I just did the 195K mile oil change and the darn thing is still going strong.  (I'd like a new car but this one is not giving me any good reason to get rid of it.)

Yes! That is the trick of those auto parts stores. The oil is a good $10-15 more than Wal Mart. I can get 5 quarts for about $15. At O'Reillys the same oil costs me $29.99. Crazy, but that's how they get you. I do buy my WIX filters at the parts store. Cheap oil filters are Wal Mart are a disaster waiting to happen.

And any place that sells oil has to take old oil. Wal Mart's everywhere do this.

A couple sheets of paper form to make a nice funnel too.

I originally bought these ramps for $45. While they are nice, I built the wooden cribs for less than $8. So I sold my ramps and now just use the wooden cribs to prop up the front wheels.

[throwerm72]

Couple of minor comments:

1.  Walmart has pretty cheap oil.  Cheaper than Autozone around here I think.
2.  I believe my community has a oil recycling program, so I can just set it out on the curb in 1-gallon plastic milk jugs.  Voila, no used oil problem.
3.  Once you learn how, you don't really need a filter wrench.  Screw it on until it begins to touch the engine block, then about 2/3 of a turn further will get it on tight enough not to leak but loose enough to where you can get it off next time with just your hands.
4.  I change my oil in the street in front of my house where I can park the right-hand wheels of the car up on the curb and the left-hand wheels in the street.  That gives me plenty of room to work underneath my Toyota Corolla.
5.  The one tool I use that wasn't mentioned previously is an oil funnel.  That way you can buy the 5-quart oil jugs and avoid splashing oil outside the engine.

I do mine every 5K miles too because that way I can just look at the odometer and know where I stand.  I just did the 195K mile oil change and the darn thing is still going strong.  (I'd like a new car but this one is not giving me any good reason to get rid of it.)

Walmart is probably the cheapest for oil. Although, I usually find Autozone's package deals are usually few dollars less or on par if you are looking for synthetic oil and a better filter. Plus walmarts filter selection is limited. Usually in that case I don't find Walmart cheap enough to offset the $10-15 filter (you can get the filters for less if you buy a lifetime's worth or get multiples during promos).

[throwerm72]

...I originally bought these ramps for $45. While they are nice, I built the wooden cribs for less than $8. So I sold my ramps and now just use the wooden cribs to prop up the front wheels.

Possible dumb question:
How do you get the car on the cribs? Spare wood stacked to form a basic ramp?

[Rollin]

Not a direct answer to your question, but I suggest you take a sample of your oil and have it analized (i use a company called Blackstone). Ask for a TPN check and that will tell you how many miles you can go on the oil the next time. You can save a lot of money this way since many people change it at 3,000 and don't need to until 7,500 or more.

I do it at 5K for ease of remembering, but you can get the windsheild sticker to remind you of other change intervals. I will go to the sticker method next change.

It will cost about $35, but will give you peace of mind and will save many dollars in the long run if you extend your oil changes.

[JR]

...I originally bought these ramps for $45. While they are nice, I built the wooden cribs for less than $8. So I sold my ramps and now just use the wooden cribs to prop up the front wheels.

Possible dumb question:
How do you get the car on the cribs? Spare wood stacked to form a basic ramp?

He probably uses a jack to lift the car up and puts the crib under the tire.

[exranger06]

Yes! That is the trick of those auto parts stores. The oil is a good $10-15 more than Wal Mart. I can get 5 quarts for about $15. At O'Reillys the same oil costs me $29.99. Crazy, but that's how they get you. I do buy my WIX filters at the parts store. Cheap oil filters are Wal Mart are a disaster waiting to happen.

The auto parts stores aren't "getting you" by charging more. I work at an auto parts sotre. There is VERY little mark-up on oil. Like less than 10%. Wal Mart buys in ridiculous large volumes and has the power to get their oil much cheaper than most auto parts stores. That's why they can sell it for much less.

And any place that sells oil has to take old oil. Wal Mart's everywhere do this.

I don't know where this myth started, but it's not true. Maybe it's a state law in certain states, but here in CT it is NOT a law. The store I work at does not take used oil, and the Wal Mart down the street doesn't, either. As far as I know, the only Wal Marts that take used oil are the ones that have the Tire and Lube centers where they actually work on your car. The ones that don't have the T&L centers don't take oil.

[Kevan]

I get Wix oil filters via the Internet, but I haven't compared the prices to Walmart.

[Mr.Macinstache]

...I originally bought these ramps for $45. While they are nice, I built the wooden cribs for less than $8. So I sold my ramps and now just use the wooden cribs to prop up the front wheels.

Possible dumb question:
How do you get the car on the cribs? Spare wood stacked to form a basic ramp?

Basic floor jack to lift the front, then I put the cribs under.

[Mr.Macinstache]

Yes! That is the trick of those auto parts stores. The oil is a good $10-15 more than Wal Mart. I can get 5 quarts for about $15. At O'Reillys the same oil costs me $29.99. Crazy, but that's how they get you. I do buy my WIX filters at the parts store. Cheap oil filters are Wal Mart are a disaster waiting to happen.

The auto parts stores aren't "getting you" by charging more. I work at an auto parts sotre. There is VERY little mark-up on oil. Like less than 10%. Wal Mart buys in ridiculous large volumes and has the power to get their oil much cheaper than most auto parts stores. That's why they can sell it for much less.

And any place that sells oil has to take old oil. Wal Mart's everywhere do this.

I don't know where this myth started, but it's not true. Maybe it's a state law in certain states, but here in CT it is NOT a law. The store I work at does not take used oil, and the Wal Mart down the street doesn't, either. As far as I know, the only Wal Marts that take used oil are the ones that have the Tire and Lube centers where they actually work on your car. The ones that don't have the T&L centers don't take oil.

Maybe it's a state law here.

I'm all for supporting the little guy but I'm not going to pay $15 more for 5qts of oil.

[Rebecca Stapler]

Thanks for this thread! My Prius is due for an oil change, so I figured I would give it a DIY try. I'm a couponer, so I'm willing to find the best deal, but I don't have a WalMart near me.

What's your price point for a "good" price on oil? (Both of my cars have over 100k miles, so I think I need a "high mileage" oil?)

[Spork]

Thanks for this thread! My Prius is due for an oil change, so I figured I would give it a DIY try. I'm a couponer, so I'm willing to find the best deal, but I don't have a WalMart near me.

What's your price point for a "good" price on oil? (Both of my cars have over 100k miles, so I think I need a "high mileage" oil?)

I generally pay about $35 for a "half case"* of Mobil 1 at Sam's Club.

*I say "half case" because they sell Mobil 1 in 6packs where most oil comes in 12packs.  It's about 2x the price of conventional oil, so it makes the prices look the same, even though you get half as much.

[Jack]

I got 4 quarts of Valvoline NextGen full-synthetic and a K&N filter for $30 at Advance the other day; I think it was a reasonably good deal.

[prodarwin]

99% of my oil changes are an Advance Auto Oil+Filter combo deal.  Usually full synthetic still comes in around $25.

[Mr.Macinstache]

I like Valvoline high mileage sythetic blend. Walmart sells it for about $16 (5qt jug). I'm picky on filters too...since the orange can of death (FRAM) can ruin your engine. I pay $8 for a WIX filter at the parts store. So for less than $25 I can get it done. An oil change with this quality materials would cost $40-50 at a shop.

[randymarsh]

You can go straight from conventional oil to synthetic with no problems (2010 Civic) right? I think I'm finally going to do my own oil change and make the switch before it gets too cold.

[Spork]

You can go straight from conventional oil to synthetic with no problems (2010 Civic) right? I think I'm finally going to do my own oil change and make the switch before it gets too cold.

Usually... yeah.  If you have been consistent with brand over the years... it might make sense to stay consistent (assuming it is a brand that offers synthetic.)

You can occasionally get into odd situations with brand switching.  Different brands have different additives...  Sometimes you'll get "gunk" buildup that doesn't hurt a darn thing... but switching brands might melt it away.   

My college room mate (many years ago) switched brands and went from a car that didn't leak to a car that leaked a quart in about 50 miles.

[Jack]

You can go straight from conventional oil to synthetic with no problems (2010 Civic) right? I think I'm finally going to do my own oil change and make the switch before it gets too cold.

Usually... yeah.  If you have been consistent with brand over the years... it might make sense to stay consistent (assuming it is a brand that offers synthetic.)

You can occasionally get into odd situations with brand switching.  Different brands have different additives...  Sometimes you'll get "gunk" buildup that doesn't hurt a darn thing... but switching brands might melt it away.   

My college room mate (many years ago) switched brands and went from a car that didn't leak to a car that leaked a quart in about 50 miles.

Apparently http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ is a good place for those kinds of questions.

[Mr.Macinstache]

You can go straight from conventional oil to synthetic with no problems (2010 Civic) right? I think I'm finally going to do my own oil change and make the switch before it gets too cold.

What are the miles? If they are over 100k I would go to a high mileage blend. I like MaxLife stuff myself. I wouldn't go right to synthetic. Just my opinion.

In my 02 Odyssey I run MaxLife blend...well, some conventional was on sale. I ran it for awhile and guess what...oil leak. I switched back to MaxLife and the leak is slowly going away. These high mileage synthetic blend oil have seal swellers in them to seal up oil leaks. It takes 3-400 miles to swell the seals.

Like Spork says, be careful switching brands/weights etc. Now I know for sure I'm not doing it. Both my Honda's have over 100k so I'll be sticking with MaxLife oils and WIX filters.

[Paul der Krake]

I'm picky on filters too...since the orange can of death (FRAM) can ruin your engine. I pay $8 for a WIX filter at the parts store.

Care to elaborate? What makes FRAM filters bad filters, and how do we distinguish real value for higher-end products from marketing gimmicks?

Suddenly anxious can of death user here.

[Mr.Macinstache]

I'm picky on filters too...since the orange can of death (FRAM) can ruin your engine. I pay $8 for a WIX filter at the parts store.

Care to elaborate? What makes FRAM filters bad filters, and how do we distinguish real value for higher-end products from marketing gimmicks?

Suddenly anxious can of death user here.

Google Fram filter failure and you'll see too many stories.  Fram uses cardboard internals that become dislodged.. and Fram owns a LOT of brands too, so its just good to play it safe with a filter that has a drain back valve and better internals. Sometimes you try to save a buck it could cost you 1000's. This is one of those times. I only run WIX or Napa Gold filters..

Will you have a problem? 95% of the time, probably not. But being that a good filter cost a few dollars more and your engine costs 1000's more, I feel better about using the quality parts there.

[Jack]

Will you have a problem? 95% of the time, probably not. But being that a good filter cost a few dollars more and your engine costs 1000's more, I feel better about using the quality parts there.

Even Fram would go out of business with a 5% failure rate. Realistically, we're probably talking about something like the difference between likely not having a problem 99.99% of the time (1 in 10,000 chance of problem) vs. 99.999% of the time (1 in 100,000 chance).

[Mr.Macinstache]

Will you have a problem? 95% of the time, probably not. But being that a good filter cost a few dollars more and your engine costs 1000's more, I feel better about using the quality parts there.

Even Fram would go out of business with a 5% failure rate. Realistically, we're probably talking about something like the difference between likely not having a problem 99.99% of the time (1 in 10,000 chance of problem) vs. 99.999% of the time (1 in 100,000 chance).

There are a lot of stories out there.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2534757&page=2

The point is they are junk. Why use an inferior product that's crucial to something so expensive? I know people love that black rubbery grip on the can, but still...

[Jack]

Why use an inferior product that's crucial to something so expensive?

Because the guy who asked already has one on his car, and was wondering whether he should freak out or not.

Sure he should pick a better brand next time, but that doesn't mean he ought to drop whatever he's doing and replace it right now because it's going to blow up if he doesn't.

[Mr.Macinstache]

Why use an inferior product that's crucial to something so expensive?

Because the guy who asked already has one on his car, and was wondering whether he should freak out or not.

Sure he should pick a better brand next time, but that doesn't mean he ought to drop whatever he's doing and replace it right now because it's going to blow up if he doesn't.

The first thing I would do if I was him would be to panic. I mean, just run around the garage and go nuts. Then drive around and sweat profusely. After that, wait until he's due for the next oil change and choose a better quality filter outside of the Fram family of filters.

[Paul der Krake]

I think I'll just forego oil and filter for a while, just to be safe.

More seriously, thanks for the explanation/links. I had never given any thought to the filter or even wondered how it worked, now I almost wish it was time to change the oil so I have an excuse to crack one open and take a peek inside.

[jawisco]

Couple of minor comments:

1.  Walmart has pretty cheap oil.  Cheaper than Autozone around here I think.
2.  I believe my community has a oil recycling program, so I can just set it out on the curb in 1-gallon plastic milk jugs.  Voila, no used oil problem.
3.  Once you learn how, you don't really need a filter wrench.  Screw it on until it begins to touch the engine block, then about 2/3 of a turn further will get it on tight enough not to leak but loose enough to where you can get it off next time with just your hands.
4.  I change my oil in the street in front of my house where I can park the right-hand wheels of the car up on the curb and the left-hand wheels in the street.  That gives me plenty of room to work underneath my Toyota Corolla.
5.  The one tool I use that wasn't mentioned previously is an oil funnel.  That way you can buy the 5-quart oil jugs and avoid splashing oil outside the engine.

I do mine every 5K miles too because that way I can just look at the odometer and know where I stand.  I just did the 195K mile oil change and the darn thing is still going strong.  (I'd like a new car but this one is not giving me any good reason to get rid of it.)

Yes! That is the trick of those auto parts stores. The oil is a good $10-15 more than Wal Mart. I can get 5 quarts for about $15. At O'Reillys the same oil costs me $29.99. Crazy, but that's how they get you. I do buy my WIX filters at the parts store. Cheap oil filters are Wal Mart are a disaster waiting to happen.

And any place that sells oil has to take old oil. Wal Mart's everywhere do this.

A couple sheets of paper form to make a nice funnel too.

I originally bought these ramps for $45. While they are nice, I built the wooden cribs for less than $8. So I sold my ramps and now just use the wooden cribs to prop up the front wheels.

You could make these much safer with a couple extra 2x4 pieces in the middle of the cribs on the ground and second level the same orientation as the crib pieces that act as crude tire chocks.  Not sure I am making this clear....

[Greg]

Yes jawisco, stacking the 2x4's more solidly would be 100x safer.  Shove some 2x material in the center and bottom pronto. 

Could a 2x4 support the 750 lbs or so?  Sure. 

Want any part of you to be under it if it fails?  No. 

Better safe than sorry.

[Mr.Macinstache]

Agreed. I did that after I took the pics. BTW, these are the same style of cribs they use to support houses when the move them or repair the foundations.