Newbie bike questions

[Kira]

So I haven't ridden a bike since I was a kid, but I got one off Craigslist and have started riding to work each day. However, it has a few issues, but since I have been getting all my advice from the bike store people I'm not sure what's actually necessary. I have a 2008 Giant Cypress.

1 - I adjusted my brakes when I first got it, then the bike shop adjusted them again a few days ago, and already I'm having to pull the brake almost all the way in to get full stopping power. Then, the right hand brake (for rear brakes) seems to take a few seconds to retract. Do I need new brake lines or what have you, or do I just keep shortening the cable?

2 - The guy at the bike store told me that my bike will lose 5 to 7 pounds of pressure every day I ride it. Is this true or did I just buy shitty inner tubes?

3 - Do I really need to take a pump and inner tube with me everywhere I go? Bike store recommends getting a little pump that straps to the bike, but I know whatever isn't bolted to my bike will be stolen while I'm at work, and I already carry a bunch of crap back and forth. I didn't think spontaneous tire decompression was that common..

4 - My butt is pretty sore by the time I get home each day. Do I just need to suck it up and get used to riding or is there actually some value in all the different seats that the bike store carries?

[sol]

Keep shortening the brake cable.  Unless it's slipping through the mount at one end or the other, once the slack and stretch are out it should stop need adjustment more than about once every six months.

Skinny road bike tires can lose 5-7 pounds in a hard day of riding, because they are super high pressure.  If you're rocking a fatter commuter tire that is only supposed to be inflated to 45 psi, you're fine.  Skip the bike pump and top it off every two weeks or so.

Fancy bike store saddles are a ripoff.  If your current saddle is properly adjusted, your ass will harden up in a week or two.

[olivia]

Ditto Sol.  One other thing to consider with the saddle is whether the distance between the handlebars and saddle is a good fit for you.  My handlebars were too far forward when I first got my bike so I was leaning a bit too far forward.  Although my ass did toughen up after a couple of weeks, once I got the handlebars adjusted my butt stopped hurting altogether. 

[SavingMon(k)ey]

Keep shortening the brake cable.  Unless it's slipping through the mount at one end or the other, once the slack and stretch are out it should stop need adjustment more than about once every six months.

Skinny road bike tires can lose 5-7 pounds in a hard day of riding, because they are super high pressure.  If you're rocking a fatter commuter tire that is only supposed to be inflated to 45 psi, you're fine.  Skip the bike pump and top it off every two weeks or so.

Fancy bike store saddles are a ripoff.  If your current saddle is properly adjusted, your ass will harden up in a week or two.

I have the same bike as you! But mine is a 2000 model or so. I bought it new (back then I didn't know about Craigslist, I was new to this country), and it has lasted me all this time in very good shape.

Agreed on the brake cable.

Agreed on the tire pressures and topping off. On my Cypress, the tires I put on there a few years ago 'cos the first set wore out requires 80 psi. I top it off at home probably once a week or so. I'm also a light rider, so a little air loss is not that big of a deal unless I'm making a heavy grocery run with full paniers. My road bike that I race on (I know, I know, what do I need two bikes for... I can only ride one at a time. These are two very different rides though!) requires 100 psi and yes, it loses a lot of air in just one day. Not the case with the 80 psi tires. That said, I usually (but not religiously) carry an extra tube and a mini pump or CO2 cartridge with me. It is good practice. On my road bike, since I ride a long way from home and away from any shops, I ALWAYS carry an extra tube and CO2 (mini pumps are almost useless for really high pressure tires).

Agreed/disagreed on saddle. Yes, your behind will definitely get less sensitive in a couple of weeks, so don't go out buying fancy saddles just yet. That said, especially for women, there are some really uncomfortable saddles out there, and it really all depends on the shape of your bones. My original saddle on the Cypress was actually a dream, but it was, unfortunately, the only part of the bike that did not hold up to heavy use, UV rays when parked in the sun, and other weathering and wear and tear (it had a cloth cover that disintegrated, I duct taped it for a long time, but then the gel inside started to break down and fall off in chunks). I have tried two other replacement saddles since and have not found one that is just as comfortable, although my current one comes close. Also, if you do decide you do need a different saddle, ask around at bike shops if they have any lying around you can try and buy for a discount. My local bike shop had a whole bucket of them and sold me a $30 saddle for $10.

Good luck riding and keep at it! I'm trying to replace more and more car trips with my bike, but I used to not have a car until 5 years ago (why, oh why, did I fall into that trap?! lol!) and my Cypress took me everywhere around town.

[Kira]

Thanks guys! I am a wee bit neurotic and I already exploded two inner tubes so I kind of don't trust my judgement with the bike.

I have however developed a bad habit now of buying yet more accessories for the bike.. my coworker called it my "bike baby" because I just want the best for it. Yes, I anthropomorphize my prized objects. I am already a few hundred bucks into the bike after all the additional work and items I needed (special seat mount so a rear rack could be mounted, did not own a helmet/front basket/air pump/etc) so I am hoping to be done with going to the bike shop for repair for a while!

[GuitarStv]

1 - Brake cable stretching is normal, you'll have to adjust them a couple times before they're stretched in nicely.  Don't worry about this!
2 - Get a floor pump with a pressure gauge.  If you're planning on cycling regularly at all, they're worth it.  I fill my touring bike every time that I commute, immediately before I leave . . . and it takes less than a minute.  I fill these tires up to 80 psi in the front ant 85 in the rear, and they're about 5 lbs lower the morning after commuting 20 miles.
3 - I carry a small pump, spare tube, and multitool with me wherever I go by bike.  I rarely flat, but it's nice to have just in case.  If I was cycling shorter distances (a couple miles at a time) I probably wouldn't bother bringing them.  If you don't know how to change a tube/tire there's no point having them.
4 - Sore butt is something that you learn to deal with (and it gets easier the more you ride).  I'd change my seat only if I was getting blisters/sores, or if I was feeling numbness.  Those are all problems that need to be addressed asap.

[EvHarris7]

I work in the bike industry and have for the past 8 years, so I can give a bit of unbiased info since I am not the one selling you the service. First off, congrats on the new bike, and the Giant Cypress is a great commuter that should last you for years.

The brake cables could be sticky for a few reasons, one could be that they need to be replaced because the inner lining is wearing on the housing causing the slow lever return. If you purchased chain lube from the shop(pro link, tri-flow, etc) try turning the bike upside down and dripping some chain lube inside of the housing where there is exposed cable on the frame. This should get your cables returning normal even if its only temporary. If that solves your problem, it's a good idea to replace the cables within the next 6 months or so.

The general rule of thumb is that tires will loose 10% of their pressure in 48 hours. It it continues at that rate, so it is reversly exponential, that's why when then sit for 6 months they are not completely flat, since they barely have any air left they loose less of it. I would just keep doing what you are and air them up once a week. On a side note, Co2 will leave your tire much quicker because they are smaller molecules.

Keep on eye on your shift cable housing if it is the white/grey housing that came on the Giant Cypress for a few years. I don't know how it does on the east coast but in AZ/CA it dries from the heat and falls apart. If you start seeing cracks in the housing I suggest you replace it. Otherwise you will go to shift one day and the inner wire will come out and you will be stuck in one gear.

A tube and a pump/Co2 inflator are a good thing to have depending on your commute, if its less than a few miles I wouldn't worry about it since you can still walk that distance easily. For longer rides its a good idea to take them, as long as you know how to change a tire if you get a flat.

Seats take some time to get use to, but if its over a few weeks of regular riding(5 miles a day+, 5 days a week) and you still have pain, I would look into a new seat.

I hope that helps and welcome to the world of bicycle commuting!

[aj_yooper]

Thanks guys! I am a wee bit neurotic and I already exploded two inner tubes so I kind of don't trust my judgement with the bike.

I have however developed a bad habit now of buying yet more accessories for the bike.. my coworker called it my "bike baby" because I just want the best for it. Yes, I anthropomorphize my prized objects. I am already a few hundred bucks into the bike after all the additional work and items I needed (special seat mount so a rear rack could be mounted, did not own a helmet/front basket/air pump/etc) so I am hoping to be done with going to the bike shop for repair for a while!

Lights?

[Bakari]

Thanks guys! I am a wee bit neurotic and I already exploded two inner tubes so I kind of don't trust my judgement with the bike.

I have however developed a bad habit now of buying yet more accessories for the bike.. my coworker called it my "bike baby" because I just want the best for it. Yes, I anthropomorphize my prized objects. I am already a few hundred bucks into the bike after all the additional work and items I needed (special seat mount so a rear rack could be mounted, did not own a helmet/front basket/air pump/etc) so I am hoping to be done with going to the bike shop for repair for a while!

The most common reason for exploding inner tubes is that the tire bead wasn't fully seated over the lip of the rim.

When you start inflating, check frequently on both sides all the way around for any spots where the tire is bulging out.  If there are any, stop, deflate the tube immediately, reseat the tire, and try again.

If, perhaps, you didn't literally mean "explode", but just "pop" or "puncture", in a new tube that is usually caused by one of two things: not removing the glass/thorn/wire that caused the initial flat from the tire before installing the new tube (run your fingers lightly around the inside of the tire, they are often to small to see), or pinching the tube with the tire levers when reinstalling the tire (never use any tools to put the tire back on, just your fingers - sometimes this requires strength and perseverance).

You aren't ever going to explode a tire by over-inflating it.  Rims and tires can take far more pressure than any hand pump can output.

[Kira]

The brake cables could be sticky for a few reasons, one could be that they need to be replaced because the inner lining is wearing on the housing causing the slow lever return. If you purchased chain lube from the shop(pro link, tri-flow, etc) try turning the bike upside down and dripping some chain lube inside of the housing where there is exposed cable on the frame. This should get your cables returning normal even if its only temporary. If that solves your problem, it's a good idea to replace the cables within the next 6 months or so.

Great tip, thank you! I think the bike wasn't used much (it was somebody's ex-girlfriend's bike) but it seems like chain lube might be the ticket here.

[Kira]

Thanks guys! I am a wee bit neurotic and I already exploded two inner tubes so I kind of don't trust my judgement with the bike.

The most common reason for exploding inner tubes is that the tire bead wasn't fully seated over the lip of the rim.

Yes, the bike store guy said I had probably given it a tire hernia - the inner tube was probably sticking out between the tire and the rim since the tire is somewhat loose on the rim. It did literally go POOM and I got white dust all over my face. It was not exciting.

You aren't ever going to explode a tire by over-inflating it.  Rims and tires can take far more pressure than any hand pump can output.

I hooked the first explodey inner tube up to the pump I use for the car tires, which is run off the car battery.. apparently it is not very accurate above 40 PSI!

Learning by trial and error here for sure.. eventually I would like to hit more "trial" and less "error" but one does not become a super badass biking mustachian overnight.

[SavingMon(k)ey]

You aren't ever going to explode a tire by over-inflating it.  Rims and tires can take far more pressure than any hand pump can output.

Call me whatever you want, but a long time ago, before I knew much about bikes at all, I misread the pressure indication on a tire and overinflated the thing by A LOT, and it popped with a rather dramatic noise. So it is possible, but like I said, I REALLY overdid it.

Whoever mentioned lights, YES! Please don't ride in dawn, dusk, or dark without them! Very important.

And I agree 100% on learning how to repair a flat or at least change a tube if you haven't yet and if you're going to carry tools. In my city, the bike kitchen offers free fix-a-flat classes every week, and there is a ton of info online, too. And do practice a couple of times taking off your wheels and putting them back on, especially the rear one.

When you say you're spending so much money on the bike, I get what you're saying, but don't forget to compare those expenses to car repair and accessory expenses (those are usually at the heart-attack level unless you can do them yourself, while bike repairs and accessories like a rack are saving you money in the long run).

[LibrarIan]

I thought I'd revive this topic instead of creating a new one since my questions are similar to the OP's. I'm also a bike newbie and just bought a tall Univega hybrid bike last week off CraigsList (not sure of its year, but it gives off a retro vibe... it looks sort of like this one: http://www.user-agent.org/stuff/images/univega_active_trail.jpg). It feels like a solid bike and I can't wait to start riding. I just have a few questions as someone who has also not ridden a bike since I was a kid.

- I keep hearing that you should ride with a pump and spare inner tube at all times (from people here and friends). Any kinds/brands that you would recommend?

- Are there other must-have bike tools to keep with you? I don't have a lot of free space in my pack while riding to work, but I want to know what I should have just in case. If you recommend something, it would be even more awesome if you found a link showing exactly what you're talking about. I'm the kind of person who needs explicit instructions ;-).

- Does having a hybrid bike fall into the category of only topping off tires once a week or so?

- Regarding lights/reflectors, I see riders sometimes in Cincinnati riding around with a headlight and front/rear reflectors that seem to pulse every second or two while they're riding. Can these sorts of things be affixed to all kinds of bikes? Links to what kind you prefer? How often do the bulbs need changing in the lights?

- Regarding helmets, this question is a little embarrassing and probably not answerable by anyone, but I'll ask anyway. I have an annoying lifelong dandruff issue that no doctor or product has been able to cure. It's not really bad, but if my hair gets rustled or I wear a hat, it rears its subtle, yet ugly head. If I start riding around in a helmet, this is going to become a constant problem. The tighter the fit, the more likely I'll be dealing with daily dandruff issues at work and I'd rather not have to deal with that. Just trust me when I say that I have tried everything under the sun and this fairly mild yet very annoying dandruff issue is not going anywhere. Any helmets that might be suitable to this issue?

- Regarding bike locks, I just bought one by Kryptonite (similar to this one: https://www.kryptonitelock.com/Pages/ProductInformation.aspx?PNumber=999812). I live in a pretty crime-free area and I also know the lock I have is considered to be on the lower end of strength when considering people breaking them and stealing bikes. Do you think this is sufficient?

Thanks,

Ian

[jnik]

- I keep hearing that you should ride with a pump and spare inner tube at all times (from people here and friends). Any kinds/brands that you would recommend?

Spare tube or patch kit. With a patch kit and hybrid tires, you can almost always apply a patch without having to unmount the whole tube. Good skill to learn. There are two types of patch: the "self-sticking" or "no glue" kind that go on like a sticker but die within days (good to get you home but that's it), and the traditional "vulcanizing" kind where you have to apply some "glue", wait a couple of minutes, then put the patch on. When done properly, they become part of the tube and can last forever.

On my road bike I have a proper frame pump; for the hybrid and folder I use this. It's overkill for most but when I'm flying with the folder it's my main pump for completely reinflating both tires.

- Are there other must-have bike tools to keep with you? I don't have a lot of free space in my pack while riding to work, but I want to know what I should have just in case. If you recommend something, it would be even more awesome if you found a link showing exactly what you're talking about. I'm the kind of person who needs explicit instructions ;-).

Lots of people carry a simple multitool. I don't.

- Does having a hybrid bike fall into the category of only topping off tires once a week or so?

"It depends." I rarely have to pump more than weekly on any of my bikes. Check daily for a week until you figure out how your bike/tire/tube combination works. Don't buy tubes labelled "lightweight" or "racing"; the weight savings are tiny and they're leakier.

- Regarding lights/reflectors, I see riders sometimes in Cincinnati riding around with a headlight and front/rear reflectors that seem to pulse every second or two while they're riding. Can these sorts of things be affixed to all kinds of bikes? Links to what kind you prefer? How often do the bulbs need changing in the lights?

See John Allen's site on reflectors for when they work and don't. Nobody uses lights with bulbs anymore; they're all LEDs. There are little "blip occasionally" lights that I wouldn't use as only light after dark. Lighting recommendations depend on how much you're riding after dark, where, and how fast. The combination of this headlight and this taillight is to my mind best value for the money for serious nighttime riding and it's what I use now; now that I have your attention, if you very rarely ride at night and need an emergency "get home" light this set is fine. Hopefully you have a stash of rechargable AA's.

Regarding helmets, this question is a little embarrassing and probably not answerable by anyone, but I'll ask anyway. I have an annoying lifelong dandruff issue that no doctor or product has been able to cure. It's not really bad, but if my hair gets rustled or I wear a hat, it rears its subtle, yet ugly head. If I start riding around in a helmet, this is going to become a constant problem. The tighter the fit, the more likely I'll be dealing with daily dandruff issues at work and I'd rather not have to deal with that. Just trust me when I say that I have tried everything under the sun and this fairly mild yet very annoying dandruff issue is not going anywhere. Any helmets that might be suitable to this issue?

I don't think helmet selection is going to help much. (Neutrogena T-gel's been my thing, but I suspect you've tried.) Most helmets don't fit like hats. Avoid the really cheap ones that adjust fit by putting in pads of different size. Most helmets now have a ratchet wheel at the back to adjust the fit. If the rubbing is an issue, maybe a tight liner hat? Then the helmet's not rubbing straight on your hair.

Just be warned that as you ride more and sweat regularly your relationship with your hair and scalp is going to change a bit; it'll be getting more natural oils and moisture. This may or may not help.

Regarding bike locks, I just bought one by Kryptonite (similar to this one: https://www.kryptonitelock.com/Pages/ProductInformation.aspx?PNumber=999812). I live in a pretty crime-free area and I also know the lock I have is considered to be on the lower end of strength when considering people breaking them and stealing bikes. Do you think this is sufficient?

If it's not locked outside all day then that would be fine. It's a "run into the store" lock. You might want to supplement with a small U-lock at some point. See Sheldon's article on lock strategy. Again, details would help here--where's your bike staying when you're at home? When you're at work?

[phred]

I don't like the portable or frame pumps.  It seems to take all day to fill a tire because their air volume is so small.  I carry a CO2 injector with two cartridges and a spare tube.  I also carry a multi-tool.  Bike tubes seem to come in varying qualities; the bargain basement tubes always seem to need air.  Don't ride with the tires under-inflated; this can lead to more than normal number of flats and the breakdown of the tire.  At home I use a standard sized bump with a built-in pressure gauge.

In addition to the blinky light rear reflector you should mount the standard non powered kind.  Blinkies aren't standardized as to what kinds of batteries they take; check it takes the more common batteries

Your lock is basically crap.  Bolt cutters won't have any problem.  However, even U-locks can be cut through with a battery powered grinder.

Dr. Oz recommends soaking the hair in a 50:50 solution of apple cider vinegar & water.  Then cover with a towel and let it soak 15 minutes to an hour.  Then shampoo.  He says to do the vinegar thing twice a week

For increased safety mount a rear view mirror.  Many mount the mirror on their helmet

[Spudd]

Regarding lights, I don't see the need to get the expensive Light & Motion ones recommended above.

For taillight, I like the Planet Bike Superflash: http://www.rei.com/product/756360/planet-bike-superflash-rear-bike-light
For headlight, I got this awesome one from DX: http://dx.com/p/flood-to-throw-zooming-cree-p4-wc-3-mode-led-bike-light-with-mount-3-aaa-26800#.Uwe_d2JdXZg

[TrMama]

I ride with 2 spare tubes and 2 CO2 cartridges at all times. I also dislike frame pumps, and being a woman riding alone I always have some creepy guy stop and offer to "help" when I get a flat. Therefore I like to get the tire changed and back on the road ASAP. CO2 inflates the tire in one second.

I also carry a multitool, but I don't think I've ever used it. Anytime I've had a mechanical issue, it wasn't something that could be fixed on the side of the road.

Pump up your tires when they need it. Only time will tell what your tubes require. I'm currently running some sort of fancy tubes on my road bike that never seem to leak. I can go weeks before they need topping up. Other tubes require daily top ups. YMMV

Bike lights are all LED. You'll never need to change the bulbs. However, you will need to change the batteries. Or you can get a USB rechargeable one. Plug it into your computer at work when it needs to charge.

No idea about the dandruff. I shower at work. Do you have this option?

Your bike is only safe if there's a nicer one parked at the same rack. I don't trust any lock and have had people try to steal parts off my bike while I was gone. My fancy race bike comes into the office with me. My old beater mountain bike is so beat up that thieves won't steal it even when it's unlocked. IMO leaving a bike locked in a public place is always a crapshoot.

[somepissedoffman]

Bikes aren't like children, you can't just leave them locked up outside.

I'm pro multitool (including a chain tool).  I've had to futz with screws on my commute, and I have had to use the chain tool on the road once.  Not absolutely necessary though.
 At some point you'll probably need to acquire a chain tool anyways, and dedicated chain tools cost almost as much as chain tool/ multi tool combos. 
I have a 'spin doctor' chain tool/multi tool gizmo, works pretty good.

[sol]

Anecdotes incoming...

I bike almost every day, and I don't carry a pump, tube, or tools unless I'm going out for an all-day leisure ride in remote areas.  I have puncture-resistant tires, and when I do have a severe mechanical break down that requires one of those things, maybe once every three years, I just walk the bike home.

My bike lock is a mini U-lock.  I'm sure it could be broken, but in all my years of riding in all different kinds of cities, I've never had a locked-up bike stolen.  So I don't worry about spending big bucks to get the latest and greatest lock.

If the helmet thing really bugs you, I'd seriously consider going without.  I wear one every day but it has never saved me, and I know lots of people who ride casually without one.  It's your life and you get to decide how valuable it is.

[Thegoblinchief]

I do training loops every morning. I design the loop so that if anything happens, I'm never more than a few miles away from home.

I "should" carry tube, etc when I'm going to work since it's further away but I have to carry a lot of stuff as it is. The few times I've been stranded it was because of my trailer causing issues, not the bike itself.