Miter Saw Decesion

[FarmerPete]

So, I've been rocking the home improvements for awhile now, and I've amassed quite a bit of tools.  I've been doing all of my own car maintenance, and fixing stuff around the house as much as possible.  I've got a few projects on my roadmap that would be greatly assisted by having a miter saw.  Currently, I've got a cheap circular saw, saws-all, jigsaw, and a radial arm saw.  I've used this stuff in the past, but the radial arm saw is very wobbly, and I can't find anyway to get it to cut precise.  I could use a circular saw, but cutting 4x4 (a requirement for one of my projects) isn't it's specialty.  If it helps, projects that I'm looking to accomplish in the next year include:

Build a swingset/play structure for kids
Replace a porch post.
Build a firewood rack.
Install hardwood floor.

I've been looking on Craigslist for awhile now, and I can't find any for a reasonable price.  I've been looking for over a month solid, and off and on before that.  A lot of my power tools have been Ridgid, because I like the idea of their lifetime service agreement.  I've been toying with getting their 10" miter saw.  It sells for $200.  I hope to get that down to $160, but I may end up paying full price if the manager won't play ball.  Lowes has a 12" Hitachi for $230 (5 yr warranty). 

So here is my question...First, is wanting a Miter saw a reasonable thing, or am I just being a complanypants?  Should I just suck it up and learn to use a circular saw better?  Second, at what point do you give up with Craigslist?  I'd like to get some of this stuff done, and the long daylight we have right now makes that a heck of a lot easier.  Third, with a miter saw, does size make that big of a difference, and how often do they break?  Should I stick with Ridgid and their LSA?

[paddedhat]

I can't imagine not having a miter saw. I have used them for everything from trimming and flooring work, plumbing (I cut all my PVC drain pipe with one)  to a large amount of jobsite clean-up after framing new homes. I just set one up on a pair of horses, and chop all the scrap dimensional lumber up to pack off to one of my outdoor wood stove using  buddies.

As for brands, I would try to find a few recent reviews before settling on anything. Fine Homebuilding magazine does a great job with tool reviews by pros. that can pick up on the subtle things that make one tool great and another one a PITA to use.  The Ridgid brand is a toss up IMHO. I have returned a new battery drill that was an inexcusable POS, and had framing gun of theirs that are great, so who knows? Just a guess, but I don't think you would really be saving anything by paying $30 less for a Ridgid, and passing up on a Hitachi. Hitachi is right up there with Bosch in my opinion, when it comes to great products for a bit more that the value brands. I have worked with a framing crew that firmly believed that Hitachi makes the best saws you can buy, period.

[zolotiyeruki]

Cheap saws are hit-or-miss.  DW got me a cheap Craftsman miter saw during Black Friday about 6 years ago, along with a similarly cheap table saw.  The table saw broke after a few years of not-that-demanding work, but the miter saw is going strong.  Go figure.

I'd be asking the question "how much will I actually use this?"  If it's an occasional project, you might be better off going with a cheaper option.  If you're making a career or serious hobby, then invest in the better tool.

[FarmerPete]

I've been using Ridgid drills and impacts for a few years.  I went with them after my old power drill's battery died, and it was cheaper to buy a new drill than replace the battery.  I like that Ridgid has a lifetime service agreement.  Even if it's a bit of a hassle, it still saves me $$$.  I've had to replace a few batteries in the 5 years I've owned my tools, and for the most part, they just swap them right out.  You do have to call to register the new serial numbers, which is how they try to trick you into loosing the LSA.  I don't care though, because I am on to them, and I'm happy to play their little game if it means free batteries till I die or they go out of business.  :-)

I'm probably going to sell my radial arm saw before the winter.  It's too big, and as I mentioned, it cuts too sloppy.  It was a nice idea (1 saw that can be a miter and table saw in one), but I really noticed it's sloppyness when I use it to make my workbench.  What I really need is a Miter and a table saw.  Something that I can store on my shelves in the garage vs needing floor space.

I think this will require a trip to Lowes and HD and some hands on testing to determine the correct option.  I just hate to spend the money, even if I know that it will save me 10x in the long run.

[worms]

I can't imagine not having a miter saw.
As for brands, I would try to find a few recent reviews before settling on anything.

Plus 1 on this!

Bought mine three years ago and can't believe how useful it has been.  Mine is a Bosch and my only gripe is that it's dust collection is not as good as I would like.

[affordablehousing]

Definitely one of the most used tools in the shop. in my mind, warranties are a total waste of time, hard to collect on, and it's easier to just sell them on craigslist to someone doing less intense work (I used a $75 craigslist bandsaw for a certain project until the blade got dull and the blade stalled, and then sold it for $50 to an artist looking to cut foam with it) if you have certain projects in mind. I personally bought a 10" hitachi new, still works fine, and picked up a 81/2" freud sliding saw (don't think they make them anymore) and I like the sliding function a lot for cutting shelving and safer crosscutting. If you can afford it I think the small sliders are good investments if you aren't doing a lot of tall molding. I wouldn't stress too much about the different brands of saws as they mostly work the same. Note too that the laser guides from harbor freight actually can work reasonably well, and might help a cheap saw be as handy as an expensive one if you add them on later.

[Spork]

Miter saws are extremely usable.  I've got one I've had for 20 years or more.

If I had to do it over, I'd have gone 12".  And I would have gone with a sliding miter.  Just my 2c.

[kendallf]

Miter saws are extremely usable.  I've got one I've had for 20 years or more.

If I had to do it over, I'd have gone 12".  And I would have gone with a sliding miter.  Just my 2c.

A sliding miter makes it much more usable, for sure.  You can cut big trim, compound angle cuts for things like 1x10" fascia (just went through that one as my non-sliding miter saw wouldn't cut it)..

I use my stuff fairly heavily and I have a (shudder) Harbor Freight miter saw that works great and has been reliable for several years.  Caveat: I don't bother with things like dust collection or laser beam doohickeys.

[Mrs.LC]

We have a Ridgid miter saw and would buy it again. It is used frequently in our shop and we would be lost without it. Pretty certain it came from Home Depot.

[worms]

Since mine is a sliding miter saw, I didn't even think that anyone would consider non-sliding!

[nereo]

My miter saw is one of my most used tools (basic DeWalt 10" bought as a black-friday deal for $179).  My only regret is that it's not a sliding miter, but in truth I can use my table saw for those cuts and I rarely cut anything thicker than a 4x4 or 2x6.

As always, the tool that is the best for you depends on your individual needs.  Based on your list, I don't think you need a sliding miter (although they are awesome), and harbor freight might be a good place to look - your projects can tolerate slight wobbles (<1/16") that drive fine carpenters away from cheaper saws.  The rest of us don't even notice.  If you want a BIFL kind of tool, consider spending a bit more for a more well-known brand.

I'd only consider a 12" saw if you plan on cutting 6x6s posts.  12" blades cost more and there's less to choose from at most big-box stores.  Speaking of blades, a good blade makes a world of difference on all saws.  The blades that ship with the saw are good for rough all-purpose cuts (fine for building a playhouse) but changing the blade will be a big upgrade on any saw.

[Jeddy]

I've had a Harbor Freight 10" sliding compound miter saw for a good while now - currently on their website showing a coupon to grab it for $89.78. I've had mine for quite some time and have done many projects around the house and it has performed flawlessly. For home projects, that price can't be beat.

[ShoulderThingThatGoesUp]

Absolutely reasonable to want a miter saw if you're doing large wood projects.

[FarmerPete]

I hadn't really been considering the sliding miter saws.  They seem to need a lot more space.  I'm not sure how it would fit where I want to store it.

[nereo]

I hadn't really been considering the sliding miter saws.  They seem to need a lot more space.  I'm not sure how it would fit where I want to store it.

even though I'd like one, I manage just fine without a sliding version.  The sliding saws are good if you want to cut boards longer than 6".  A table saw will do the same job.  They take up a bit more space (maybe an additional 10" behind the saw), so that is something to consider.

EDIT:  sliding miter saws are also very useful if you are doing very deep crown molding.  Normal crown molding can still be done with a fixed 10" miter.

[waffle]

I have a 10" Ryobi sliding miter saw from home depot. I've used it on wainscoting, hardwood flooring, crown molding, and a ton of little projects. I've only had it about 6 months, but so far its great and for the price I'd definitely buy it again.

[ShoulderThingThatGoesUp]

I have a 10" Ryobi sliding miter saw from home depot. I've used it on wainscoting, hardwood flooring, crown molding, and a ton of little projects. I've only had it about 6 months, but so far its great and for the price I'd definitely buy it again.

I have the same thing. Going strong in its third year.

[Spork]

I hadn't really been considering the sliding miter saws.  They seem to need a lot more space.  I'm not sure how it would fit where I want to store it.

even though I'd like one, I manage just fine without a sliding version.  The sliding saws are good if you want to cut boards longer than 6".  A table saw will do the same job.  They take up a bit more space (maybe an additional 10" behind the saw), so that is something to consider.

EDIT:  sliding miter saws are also very useful if you are doing very deep crown molding.  Normal crown molding can still be done with a fixed 10" miter.

I've done some trim work where I really needed it...  Like stair treads or 12" deep trim running up the stairs.  I managed by cutting/flipping/cutting again... but that isnt terribly precise.

[Rightflyer]

I have a Bosch 10" sliding compound mitre saw.

Over the course of 6 years, it's been used in 1 house renovation, 3 garden sheds, 1 barn, 2 new homes and a new shop/office build. Still going strong. The only maintenance, other than blade sharpening, was a new trigger switch.

I can't imagine not having one. Next to a solid contractor's table saw it is my most used building power tool.

BTW: As for the good folks who seem to suggest that a fixed mitre saw is "almost as good" as a sliding...they probably really haven't used a sliding very much. Like any robust tool, you will find new ways to use it that you had never though of.

Get a good sliding compound mitre saw...you won't regret it.


 

[nereo]

BTW: As for the good folks who seem to suggest that a fixed mitre saw is "almost as good" as a sliding...they probably really haven't used a sliding very much. Like any robust tool, you will find new ways to use it that you had never though of.

where did I ever mention that a fixed miter saw is "almost as good"?  I've said several times that I wish I had a sliding saw, but that I "manage" without one, typically substituting the table saw.  Not the same thing.  And yes, I've used a sliding saw extensively through work - they are wonderful.  As it frequently does with shop tools, it comes down to price, space and need.

[Rightflyer]

BTW: As for the good folks who seem to suggest that a fixed mitre saw is "almost as good" as a sliding...they probably really haven't used a sliding very much. Like any robust tool, you will find new ways to use it that you had never though of.

where did I ever mention that a fixed miter saw is "almost as good"?  I've said several times that I wish I had a sliding saw, but that I "manage" without one, typically substituting the table saw.  Not the same thing.  And yes, I've used a sliding saw extensively through work - they are wonderful.  As it frequently does with shop tools, it comes down to price, space and need.

Yes, quite right. No offense intended.

I was just concerned the OP would take your post to mean "...don't bother, you can make do...". While that may be true, making do doesn't always lend itself to enjoyable endeavours.

I am always guilty of overbuying the next level up from what I really need at the time. In the end though, I have never regretted that.

[worms]

One advantage I find of the sliding mitre is that if you set your depth of cut, you can make a quick series of parallel sliding cuts and chisel out the waste to create tenons, dados, rabbets, laps, cross laps etc.  I would think that these would not work on a fixed mitre and would take a lot more tool set-up time with either a table saw or a router. For the amateur or beginner this is a good easy way into more complex carpentry.

[Rightflyer]

One advantage I find of the sliding mitre is that if you set your depth of cut, you can make a quick series of parallel sliding cuts and chisel out the waste to create tenons, dados, rabbets, laps, cross laps etc.  I would think that these would not work on a fixed mitre and would take a lot more tool set-up time with either a table saw or a router. For the amateur or beginner this is a good easy way into more complex carpentry.

Yep. Great example.

[FarmerPete]

So I bought the Hitachi saw last night.  Reading this thread makes me want to leave it in the box and get a sliding miter saw...

[nereo]

So I bought the Hitachi saw last night.  Reading this thread makes me want to leave it in the box and get a sliding miter saw...

that's the problem with tools.  As soon as you have a miter saw, you want a sliding miter saw.  Then you want a panel saw.  Then you want joiner.  Then you want a band saw.  Then you want ... a larger shop :-)

good luck with your projects.  Post pictures!

[worms]

So I bought the Hitachi saw last night.  Reading this thread makes me want to leave it in the box and get a sliding miter saw...

Lol! I did that with a cheap table saw a couple of weeks ago - by the time I got it home I had changed my mind and took it back the next day! I managed the task without it and will save for a better one.

The Hitachi will be a good saw and will always have a good used value, so I would stick with it until you see if you feel constrained by things you want to do and can't.

[Noahjoe]

You can definitely accomplish all of your projects without a miter saw, but they are handy. You'll use it for things you never thought you would. and the cuts that come from a good one are perfect. If you tend to do any/all of your projects/maintenance chores that require cutting wood, I'd recommend as good a one as you can afford as a staple tool. If ever doing a project with expensive lumber, a few bad cuts could set you back considerably.


My story: I did my own hardwood floors, framing for some rooms, and basic furniture building. I bought this one, with a buy once, cry once mentality:

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LS1016L-10-Inch-Slide-Compound/dp/B0028Y4Q2O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1438274014&sr=8-1&keywords=makita+miter+saw

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-195083-4-Site-Miter-Stand/dp/B002MPQDNO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1438274109&sr=8-2&keywords=makita+miter+saw+stand

The stand is HEAVY - I bought it locally for about $200 if memory serves. It makes cutting long lengths  of lumber (and not dropping the "waste" end into the floor/dirt) very easy. plus it's easy to stow/move and has a smaller footprint than just setting the saw down on the floor or on the shelf. It's rock solid when set up and easier than manipulating a saw on plywood/saw horses. Worth every penny.

The blade that comes with the saw is also great. It lived through 1500 sf of hickory flooring and a lot of maple/cherry projects and is still super sharp. It has already paid for itself many, many times over.

[jacksonvasey]

Hand saws can actually work pretty nicely as long as they're sharp, and then you don't have to worry about bigger being better, or sliding arms or whatever.

Although a set of nice hand saws and a mitre box will probably cost about as much as a mitre saw from a big box store...

[Bateaux]

12 inch Dewalt accept nothing less.  I cut through 4x6 posts like butter.  Change to a finishing blade and cut 6 inch crown molding.  It is a workhorse.

[worms]

Hand saws can actually work pretty nicely as long as they're sharp, and then you don't have to worry about bigger being better, or sliding arms or whatever.

Although a set of nice hand saws and a mitre box will probably cost about as much as a mitre saw from a big box store...

There is a lot to be said for traditional techniques, equipment and craftsmanship, but sometimes time is also important.  I also think that many people get into woodworking through the easier route of machine working before moving onto the finer art of hand carpentry - the successful completion of early projects in a reasonable time-frame reinforces the pleasure in the early days. 

[archben82]

A good miter saw is an absolute must for even a casual DIY, IMO.  I like Bosch tools and own the basic 12" Bosch miter saw...it's been a great tool.

[CabinetGuy]

I do custom cabinetry and cabinetry installs.  Never really needed a slider, but them I have a Festool track saw for wider cross cuts.

That being said, spend the extra coin and get a slider.  Way more versatile, and they don't take up that much space when you put them away.

You could get this one if you're really into dust collection and overall awesomeness.

https://www.festoolproducts.com/Festool-561287-Kapex-KS-120-Sliding-Compound-Miter-p/561287.htm?gclid=COT4qaOPhscCFYgBaQodyVgH3g

[nereo]

You could get this one if you're really into dust collection and overall awesomeness.

https://www.festoolproducts.com/Festool-561287-Kapex-KS-120-Sliding-Compound-Miter-p/561287.htm?gclid=COT4qaOPhscCFYgBaQodyVgH3g

Wow!  So sexy, and so out of my budget.... sigh.

[Johnez]

I worked at a woodshop for 7 years with the same 12" miter saw, a Ridgid. That thing was awesome, heavy duty use every single day. I built a modified table to cut 1x10s on it, that should cover 95% of cuts if ya can live without a slider.

[CletusMcGee]

IMO saws (table, miter, anything precision) are best not cheaped out on.  The better brands like Dewalt, Hitachi, Bosch will hold their angles a lot better over time than lesser brands.  For instance, with my Dewalt 12" single compound, I set/checked the bevel stop when I bought it 6 years ago and it is still perfectly perpendicular despite regular use and transport.    There are plenty of other tools that one can and should go cheap on, but precision saws are not one of them. 

Buy once, cry once.

[FarmerPete]

To store the saw where I need to, I'd have to go with one of the compact sliders. I.e. even more expensive. Saws likehttp://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004323NNC?psc=1

[Boz86]

Mitre saw was definitely worth the money to me. I like the table, too. Makes it portable, easier to work with longer pieces, but that'll depend on how you set it up.

[aperture]

Aside from a cordless drill, there is no other power tool more useful than a miter saw.  I love my 10" Dewalt.  It is not a slider, but I can pick it up, carry it anywhere to my work site and set it down on the ground without any fuss, and it is ready to bust out 90 degree angles all day.  I would be more interested in hearing how true the saw is, (and how easy to set right), than how long the warranty lasts.  Best wishes, -ap.

[FarmerPete]

Was at Home Depot yesterday.  I was coveting a 12" slider online and wanted to check it out.  There were none to be found, but they had a 12" stationary Ridgid on clearance for $240.  Bought it.  Got it home, assembeled it, and the last piece I installed is broken.  The quick release for the clamp was installed backwards.  It's cast metal, so you can't reverse it.  Freaking annoying.  Now I have to box it all back up.  Grrr.

[ncornilsen]

I have a sliding Evolution RageIII miter saw. I have a finish blade, general purpose blade, and a steel blade. I used it for building my addition, trimwork, cutting tubes for a car rollcage, and many other things. One of the best buys I've ever made.

[ontheway2]

I broke down and got a miter saw a couple years ago, and I absolutely LOVE it. I have had a few large projects and it is such a game changer. It's a Hitachi (I think this one) and works well

https://www.amazon.com/Metabo-HPT-C10FCGS-Compound-15-Amp/dp/B07PX44JQM/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=hitachi+miter+saw&qid=1567776857&s=gateway&sr=8-4

[Tempname23]

One advantage I find of the sliding mitre is that if you set your depth of cut, you can make a quick series of parallel sliding cuts and chisel out the waste to create tenons, dados, rabbets, laps, cross laps etc.  I would think that these would not work on a fixed mitre and would take a lot more tool set-up time with either a table saw or a router. For the amateur or beginner this is a good easy way into more complex carpentry.

I appreciate the tip, I have a Miter saw, recently used it build a 15ft x 25ft screened porch.
But, I have been thinking upgrading it for to long. I never had the idea that you can make equal depth cuts, unlike a non-sliding miter saw. That adds a handy capability I never thought of. I'm convinced, my next miter saw will be sliding type.
  I bought a small drill press and a table saw (no stand) at a yard over 15 years ago, I put the table saw in the back corner of my shop under a shelf, and there it sat until recently I started my screened porch. For some reason in my mind I had categorized the saw as just a cheap piece of junk equipment, and had never used it. Building the porch I needed a table saw, I reluctantly pulled it out. First, I noticed it was a Craftsman,
then, it has an extension on the table. Wow, I should have got this out a long time ago. Anyway after I oiled it up and I clamped it in my Rockwell Jawhorse, (bought when they were cheap, AND on clearance.)  I bought a Diablo thin Kerf Ripping blade. I love that saw, I had many treated 2x4s that I had to rip, and it cut them like butter.

[jpdx]

I have all the saws, and if I could only keep one, it would be my miter saw.

That said, if you want to improve the accuracy when cutting lumber on your circular saw, use a framing square or speed square as a guide. You hold the square on top of the board with one hand and slide the saw forward with the other.

[Milkshake]

Another vote for the Harbor Freight 10" sliding miter saw, no lasers or anything extra. Got mine for $85 with a coupon. If you aren't a contractor or running this thing every single weekend, and you keep it in good shape, it'll do perfectly fine. And for $85, if it dies in 5 years instead of 10 you just go buy another one, you'll still be better off. If you want bigger than 10", their 12" version goes on sale every once in awhile too for around $120.

If you don't trust me as an internet stranger, I recommend reading reviews from other internet strangers too. I read a good article specifically about the Harbor Freight miter before I bought it...

Ah, here it is: Harbor Freight Miter Saw Review

[lutorm]

I have a sliding Evolution RageIII miter saw. I have a finish blade, general purpose blade, and a steel blade. I used it for building my addition, trimwork, cutting tubes for a car rollcage, and many other things. One of the best buys I've ever made.

Yeah, me too. I've cut more steel and aluminum than wood with it, it's extremely versatile and has held up for something like 5 years without a problem.

(The only this it doesn't do is stainless -- even though there's a dedicated stainless blade for it, it spins too fast for cutting stainless and it only last literally a handful of cuts. Don't bother. For stainless you need a band saw with suitably slow speed.)

[Just Joe]

Miter saws are extremely usable.  I've got one I've had for 20 years or more.

If I had to do it over, I'd have gone 12".  And I would have gone with a sliding miter.  Just my 2c.

I agree. I have a 20 year old Black and Decker. Its been fine but no sliding, sometimes too small. And I'd like to have the compound function. A laser guide would be nice too.

Looks like my old saw is worth $20-$60 if you need to go cheap.

BLACK & DECKER Miter Saw 1710