I'm just wrapping up a project here to repair an old, mostly destroyed sprinkler system here as well.
My tips would be (for northern climates):
Use poly pipe (160 psi for the mainlines, 100 psi for downstream of the valves).
Install risers for gate valve spigots near the zone boxes. These are useful throughout the season, but also useful to blow out the mainline with air at the end of the season.
Use the yellow and black Blazing Saddles pipe taps for all the middle of run outlets. Super fast, easy, and cheap. Don't use them on any permanently pressurized mainline.
Use end combination elbows (1" down to 3/4" FPT) for end of line outlets.
Don't mix outlet types in a zone. No rotors with sprays. Nothing else with drip.
Consider running speaker wire and 120VAC (UF-B with a GFCI before it enters the ground) to any sheds, patios, or deck areas.
Consider running low voltage landscape lighting wire at the same time.
Consider running underground Cat6 and RG-6 (gel filled for both) if you want wifi, Apple TV, or TiVo mini/MoCa boxes out on the patio.
Consider running gate sensors and wiring for same.
I also ran PVC conduit to the zone boxes for future wire repairs/replacements. I'm not sure if I'd do this again; it was a lot of work for future-proofing that I'll probably/hopefully never need.
Follow the irrigationtutorials site. It really walks you through what you need. Then, place a small order with sprinkler warehouse to get some parts in your hand that you're still wondering about. There will be plenty of room later to make another > $149 free shipping order.
Buy poly pipe at Home Depot or Lowes. I used 1" for the mainline and most zones, 3/4" is OK for most drip zone applications.
All told, I'm going to be a few thousand into this project, but that's 13 zones (7 rotors, 2 sprays, 4 drip), landscape lighting, electrical, 3 outdoor spigots, speakers by the patio, 3 new gate sensors, and a new DIY RPi-based sprinkler controller.
We better not need to move is all I've got to say... ;)