Has anyone built their own wood cribbing blocks for use with jack stands?

[cdgreg]

Background: I would really like to begin doing my own basic maintenance on our vehicles (2009 Rav, 2007 Prius). The closest I have ever gotten to my own auto work to this point has been sitting in the waiting room at the dealership, but the Rav needs transfer case/rear diff fluid changes, so this feels like the perfect first job. We have a fairly level gravel driveway (no garage), and at this point I have purchased a set of ramps, a 3 ton low profile heavy duty jack, four 3 ton jack stands, and wheel chocs. I read through my manual and the jacking points seem pretty darn simple, but from exhaustive google and forum searches, jack stand locations on the Rav seem conflicting and less than ideal and when you couple that with my gravel driveway, I am gun shy to use the ramps and/or jack stands.

Possible Solution: Through my reading I stumbled across this "Wood cribbing block DIY for raising the car in addition to jack stands" post and the build process begins about half way down the lengthy post. Quoted below is a snippet and here is the full link: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/wood-cribbing-block-diy-for-raising-the-car-in-addition-to-jack-stands/

Parts to build DIY wood cribbing blocks
Yields 4 blocks 14" tall, 16" wide, and 24" long each.

Disclaimer: The procedure shown were generic steps for my car only. You must measure your car to see if a 24" long or 16" wide plank is stable enough for your vehicle and load. You must customize these plans to fit your needs by calculating the strength of the wood you are using vs. the amount of weight it will support. Consult a qualified engineer before making your own design or copying these generic plans.

2x4 wood planks (2x4s are actually 1.5"x3.5", I don't know why, they just are)
24" long 2x4 = 40 pieces
16" long 2x4 = 44 pieces

2x16 wood plank, 24" long = 8 pieces

coarse deck screws, 3.5" long
coarse deck screws, 2" long
electric hand drill and various bits (preferred)

I am thinking about building a set of these to use for fluid changes and other non-tire removal jobs (in addition to the jack stands as back ups). I recognize it's overkill as compared to driving up the ramps, changing the fluid, and rolling back down, but it feels so much safer given our gravel driveway.

Questions:
Have any of you built anything along these lines, and if so do you have alternative specs or write ups linked anywhere?
Would the dimension of 16" wide and 24" long be appropriate for the gross weight of a Rav4 and the stock 16 or 17" tire sizes?
Any other feedback?

Thank you,
Greg

[sequoia]

I have build a small ramp from scrap solid wood, which I think is a lot safer. Nothing to break - it is solid wood, and without any space to get compressed. I just need to raise a few inch so my floor jack can get under my car, and then I raise up the car, and use jack stand. You can have several layers, and make the ramp higher.

I would not want to be working under a car with those blocks in your example, but that is just me.

[Spork]

I wouldn't be bothered by these.  Go take a look at a standard auto trailer.  They normally have a bed made of 2x lumber with adequate steel cross bracing.


As an alternative, for your gravel driveway, you could spread the load out for the jack stands.  My FIL used to use a highway speed limit sign (they're bigger and heavier than you think) when he was in soft soil and needed to jack a vehicle.  Usually it was a heavy tractor out in a plowed field. 

[HipGnosis]

I've been working on cars (and trucks, and bikes and...) for many years.   
I've made a number of ramps of wood.
I've never used 'cribbing blocks' (never heard the term before) and jack stands.  Just my ramps and/or jack stands.

16" wide blocks are a waste of wood.  My ramps are 2x8s with 2x4s under them.
Also, I'd rather have TWO 2x4s going across under the tires  (and the 2x4s at the ends are over kill).

Why are you hesitant to use the ramps and/or jack stands on gravel?  I've done it many (many) times.  If you're afraid they will sink into the gravel; put some (scrap) wood under them - it'll spread the load, like snow shoes.

Try here for jack stand locations; www.google.com/webhp?q=jack+stands+site:www.rav4world.com/forums/

[WranglerBowman]

Do you need to get the vehicle off the ground?  I try not to jack up a vehicle unless I have to, and when I do jack it up I keep the hydraulic jack under pressure and use jack stands as an insurance policy before I get under a vehicle.  You're more than likely going to need a suction gun to put new oil in the transfer case.  The rear dif you should be able to get to without jacking the vehicle up.  If you need to lift the hole vehicle and you have the jack stands I would just use them but make sure the vehicles frame rests on the jack stands...which is where your lifting point should be.  You could always take the redneck approach and dig a hole to work in while the vehicle is parked over top of you.