Fixing up bike - easy questions

[Sibley]

I bought a bike from a garage sale last fall for $20. It might be too big for me, so I don't want to put a lot of money into it, but it needs some work. Primarily, it's filthy. Looks like someone wiped out into a mudhole. I can handle the cleaning, but can someone tell me what kind of oil to get for the chain?

Bike is blue. Standard mountain bike (in my knowledge of bikes). The gear looks like the very first picture in this article: https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/buyers-guides/bike-gears

Also, the break is sticky. When you press the break, it closes, but it doesn't release properly. Not sure if cleaning the bike will help with that, so am mentioning but also holding off on anything re the break until after I clean it.

[Askel]

Your local bikeshop should be able to recommend a good lube appropriate to your local conditions. I like "white lightning epic" (available via amazon). 

Probably also want to pick up a chain cleaner (I like my park tool cm-5.3) and brush while you are there to clean out the gunk. Park tool sells a kit with the brush and a bottle of degreaser. 

Brake sounds like a cable- if you disconnect the cable, does is release properly? You can lube it to try and get it working, but best just to recable it. Yor local bikeshop should be able to get you come bulk cable housing and a brake cable cheap.   

[Sibley]

I haven't done anything with the bike really. When I say its filthy, I mean it. I'm not sure it's entirely blue. The break has mud caked in/on it, so cleaning it will have an impact on function. I  just know the front doesn't stick and it's just as dirty as the sticky back break.

Will stop by bike store, ty. Then next free, warm day I'll be scrubbing.

[nereo]

It’s a $20 bike, and it’s filthy. Scrub it down completely, you can’t really hurt it at this point. I’d just use dawn diluted with water and a couple of rags and an old toothbrush. Rinse it well and then dry it thoroughly.

Most likeLy you will want to replace the chain anyway. Very cheap to do. But lubing the chain is something one should always do after a thorough cleaning. Apply a tiny dab to all the links and run the pedals, then wipe off all the excess. Any bike lube is better than no lube, and five bike mechanics will give you ten opinions on what to use, so don’t overanalyze and just pick up what sells well at your local bike shop. Or Amazon (hey, it’s a $20 bike…)

Brakes could by the cable or layers of grime. Cleaning will help the latter, a $5 cable if that doesn’t solve the issue.

Once it’s clean how does everything else look and sound? 

[uniwelder]

I'm an occasional bike rider that generally doesn't pay much, if any, money for my bikes.  It's a benefit of living in a college town where bikes are very easy to come across.  My advice will be regarded as heresy amongst real cyclists.

I don't spend money on special bike lubes and just use WD-40 instead.  It works great degunking derailers and cleaning the chain.  Granted, it's not a great lubricant, but if you're only riding 30 minutes a week, I don't think it's an issue.  It certainly hasn't noticeably affected the bike I've currently been riding for the last 10 years.  Just spray on some more and wipe down when you notice rust.  For the chain, I just flip the bike upside down, so the handlebars and seat are resting on the floor, then crank the pedal with one hand, then spray the chain as its running past the nozzle.  Once its saturated, keep cranking and wipe the excess with a cloth.

[lthenderson]

Like above, I just use a spray can of WD-40. I have been doing so this way for nearly 50 years without really any issues other than if you are commuting to work in nice clothes, you may want to invest in some pant leg straps or go with a higher quality chain wax that doesn't leave "bite" marks on your legs if you accidentally brush the chain.

[GuitarStv]

Just as an FYI - it's easier to make a bike that's too small fit a person than a bike that's too big.  The big bike will have a longer top tube, which will make it less comfortable and cannot really be fixed.

As far as the brake being sticky, this is most likely friction introduced into the system somewhere.  I'd try the following (in this order):
- Make sure that the brake cable is attached to the brake properly.  I'm assuming rim brakes here - where the brake has to be disconnected in order to remove the wheel.  When you pull the lever, both arms of the brake should make contact with the rim and then if connected properly should spring back.  If disconnected, the lever won't spring back or will spring back in a very mushy manner (and also won't stop the bike, so this is important).
- Oil the brake cable where it enters any cable housing to reduce friction.
- Check for visible rust on the brake cable.  If it's rusty, replace the cable.
- Check that the cable isn't rubbing/dragging on anything that could be causing friction.  (It's a bike, weird stuff can happen).
- Ensure that the cable housing isn't kinked or bent at a sharp angle anywhere (if it is, you probably should replace the housing)
- Oil the brake levers themselves at the pivots if they look rusty (could cause slightly mushy feel to brakes).
- Replace the housings the cable runs through (this is a good idea to do every once in a while anyway - they don't last forever and eventually attract dirt and crap that keeps the cable from sliding through properly).

[Askel]

What make/model bike is this by the way? 

Some $20 bikes are absolutely worth lavishing some love on. 

Some, well.... aren't.   But sometimes their frames make for great candidates for a tall bike build.  :D   

[Sibley]

Yes, fixing it up and selling it is a real possibility if its too big to be comfortable/safe for me. I think it's right on the line. But, it was $20. At worst, I'll make a couple bucks and get a bike back into active use.

As for make/model - that information is under a thick coat of rock hard mud. I'll let you know after I wash it. Earliest will be Thursday, and that's weather permitting.

[nereo]

As for make/model - that information is under a thick coat of rock hard mud. I'll let you know after I wash it. Earliest will be Thursday, and that's weather permitting.

Please take some pictures.   I've muddied up bikes quite a few times, but typically not enough to obscure the manufacturer.

[Sibley]

As for make/model - that information is under a thick coat of rock hard mud. I'll let you know after I wash it. Earliest will be Thursday, and that's weather permitting.

Please take some pictures.   I've muddied up bikes quite a few times, but typically not enough to obscure the manufacturer.

It is quite impressive actually, and I have to wonder it if it was deliberate. I have limited history on the bike, I know it was bought for a wife/girlfriend who rode it a few times then didn't anymore, then it sat around for a few years until they finally decided to sell it in the yard sale. They probably would have had an easier time selling it if they'd at least removed the worst of the mud. It's dropped a fair amount of dirt onto the floor in the garage. I will try to remember to take a picture before I start washing it, but no promises. I have a long history of forgetting to take before pictures.

[GuitarStv]

If there's that much mud on the thing, it very likely needs new cables.  Give it a good wash and lube up first though, that should free the brakes up somewhat.

[Sibley]

For those curious, it's a Huffy. And more of it appears to be blue. I used a broom and knocked off a bunch of dirt. Was dumb and did it in the garage too, so now I have to clean that up.

[FINate]

WD-40 is fine for most parts, including the chain.

Though these days I prefer Boeshield T-9 for chains. Goes on wet, dries to a waxy film that is long lasting (200-ish miles), waterproof, and doesn't get grimy. But it's not a spur of the moment thing, you have to apply minimum 2 hours before riding.

[Telecaster]

Take it to a car wash and blast it with the wand.  You won't hurt anything.   Probably a good idea to replace the brake cables.  It is something that needs to be done occasionally anyway, so now is a good time.   Instead of lube, I prefer wax.   Bunch of info in the Innertubs, but basically you need to clean the shit of our chain, and then soak it in melted paraffin wax (melting it safely is the key).  Your chain will never feel smoother and it resists dirt much better that oil-based lubricants.   

[Askel]

For those curious, it's a Huffy. And more of it appears to be blue. I used a broom and knocked off a bunch of dirt. Was dumb and did it in the garage too, so now I have to clean that up.

Bad news, unless it also happens to maybe say 7-11 someplace on the frame as well (unlikely, google huffy 7-11 for that story), this is probably not worth spending any more money on. I'm not intimately familiar with the huffy line up over the years, so I could be wrong, but this was likely a terrible bicycle when it was unboxed at walmart or wherever and has not gotten any better since. 

The money and time it will take to get this riding like a reliable, quality bike could probably just buy you a reliable, quality bike. 

There's a good chance that frame might be steel though, so still an excellent candidate for a tall bike build. ;D 

[FINate]

For those curious, it's a Huffy. And more of it appears to be blue. I used a broom and knocked off a bunch of dirt. Was dumb and did it in the garage too, so now I have to clean that up.

Bad news, unless it also happens to maybe say 7-11 someplace on the frame as well (unlikely, google huffy 7-11 for that story), this is probably not worth spending any more money on. I'm not intimately familiar with the huffy line up over the years, so I could be wrong, but this was likely a terrible bicycle when it was unboxed at walmart or wherever and has not gotten any better since. 

The money and time it will take to get this riding like a reliable, quality bike could probably just buy you a reliable, quality bike. 

There's a good chance that frame might be steel though, so still an excellent candidate for a tall bike build. ;D

For sure, it's worth about $0. That doesn't mean it's not worth a little time, effort, and a few bucks to get it working. I would not recommend actually taking it mountain biking, unless you like carrying a broken bike miles back to the car. And it will never ride like a quality bike. But often it's nice to have a cheap bike for around town without worrying about it getting stolen.

[nereo]

For sure, it's worth about $0. That doesn't mean it's not worth a little time, effort, and a few bucks to get it working. I would not recommend actually taking it mountain biking, unless you like carrying a broken bike miles back to the car. And it will never ride like a quality bike. But often it's nice to have a cheap bike for around town without worrying about it getting stolen.

I see bikes like this on FB Marketplace and CL selling for ~$50.  I'd clean it up, lube the chain, address the sticky brake issue and then sell it for a bit more than you paid. As you said - it's slightly too big for you anyway. 

[Heckler]

My advice will be regarded as heresy amongst real cyclists.

I don't spend money on special bike lubes and just use WD-40 instead.

Burn them!  Witch!


/jk, but not really.

WD40 is a solvent, not a lubricant.  It's great to get a rusty chain moving again, and likely needed in this case.   After the WD40, please put any type of oil onto the chain, let it sit for a bit and wipe off the excess with a clean rag.  Bike chain lube, clean canola oil, clean motor oil, reused french fry grease, dirty motor oil, in that order of preference.   Well, don't put the dirty motor oil, it's likely carcinogenic.

[Heckler]

Also, the break is sticky. When you press the break, it closes, but it doesn't release properly. Not sure if cleaning the bike will help with that, so am mentioning but also holding off on anything re the break until after I clean it.

Sticky brakes on the wheel rims?  Or a disc on the axle of the wheel?

Hoping it's a rim brake, you'll be replacing rusty cables and WD-40/lubricating the housings first.  Then attacking the dirt/rust at the pivots of the brakes.  #Ensure you adjust the brakes and cables correctly.

Discs, I say nothing.  Go to a shop.

Consider this - the brakes are what stops you from hitting a car, which is moving with far more momentum than you.  Get someone who knows how to fit them if you don't.

[uniwelder]

My advice will be regarded as heresy amongst real cyclists.

I don't spend money on special bike lubes and just use WD-40 instead.

Burn them!  Witch!


/jk, but not really.

WD40 is a solvent, not a lubricant.  It's great to get a rusty chain moving again, and likely needed in this case.   After the WD40, please put any type of oil onto the chain, let it sit for a bit and wipe off the excess with a clean rag.  Bike chain lube, clean canola oil, clean motor oil, reused french fry grease, dirty motor oil, in that order of preference.   Well, don't put the dirty motor oil, it's likely carcinogenic.

I’ve always thought a regular oil was even worse because dirt sticks and binds up between moving parts.

[nereo]

My advice will be regarded as heresy amongst real cyclists.

I don't spend money on special bike lubes and just use WD-40 instead.

Burn them!  Witch!


/jk, but not really.

WD40 is a solvent, not a lubricant.  It's great to get a rusty chain moving again, and likely needed in this case.   After the WD40, please put any type of oil onto the chain, let it sit for a bit and wipe off the excess with a clean rag.  Bike chain lube, clean canola oil, clean motor oil, reused french fry grease, dirty motor oil, in that order of preference.   Well, don't put the dirty motor oil, it's likely carcinogenic.

I’ve always thought a regular oil was even worse because dirt sticks and binds up between moving parts.

I joined a bike service co-op in grad school and once made the mistake of asking what lube I should use on my chain. 20 minutes later they were still actively debating while I packed up and went home.

My approach: (almost) any lubricant is better than none and chains are relatively cheap, easy to replace and fairly durable. So I…. Clean the chain, dry the chain, apply whatever oil/lube is within reach and then wipe off all excess. Done in under five minutes.

In other words, I try not to overcomplicate

[GuitarStv]

My advice will be regarded as heresy amongst real cyclists.

I don't spend money on special bike lubes and just use WD-40 instead.

Burn them!  Witch!


/jk, but not really.

WD40 is a solvent, not a lubricant.  It's great to get a rusty chain moving again, and likely needed in this case.   After the WD40, please put any type of oil onto the chain, let it sit for a bit and wipe off the excess with a clean rag.  Bike chain lube, clean canola oil, clean motor oil, reused french fry grease, dirty motor oil, in that order of preference.   Well, don't put the dirty motor oil, it's likely carcinogenic.

I’ve always thought a regular oil was even worse because dirt sticks and binds up between moving parts.

I joined a bike service co-op in grad school and once made the mistake of asking what lube I should use on my chain. 20 minutes later they were still actively debating while I packed up and went home.

My approach: (almost) any lubricant is better than none and chains are relatively cheap, easy to replace and fairly durable. So I…. Clean the chain, dry the chain, apply whatever oil/lube is within reach and then wipe off all excess. Done in under five minutes.

In other words, I try not to overcomplicate

It's because there's no right answer.  I find that it's very dependent upon the weather you ride in, the type of maintenance you do, and possibly your zodiac sign.  However, I cannot turn up the chance to discuss bike lube so here goes:

I like a thicker oil for salty winter rides.  It gets dirty faster, but the chain is less likely to rust than when using wax or light oils.  I like a thinner oil for most of the rest of the time, but it's not terribly dry or dusty where I live and I regularly ride through rain.  When using oils on the chain it's important to regularly wipe the chain off to keep from developing a paste of oil/rocks/bits of metal that will grind down your chain and components.

WD-40 will work in a pinch, but it's the shortest lasting oil that you can put on a chain.  If you're not planning to spray down with WD-40 on every ride, don't do it.  It will strip the regular oil out of your chain and leave you rusty as soon as it wears off (very quickly) and you contact moisture.

I've tried a couple waxes and never had luck with them, but many swear by using them in all conditions.  Might well be user error on my part.

[uniwelder]

My advice will be regarded as heresy amongst real cyclists.

I don't spend money on special bike lubes and just use WD-40 instead.

Burn them!  Witch!


/jk, but not really.

WD40 is a solvent, not a lubricant.  It's great to get a rusty chain moving again, and likely needed in this case.   After the WD40, please put any type of oil onto the chain, let it sit for a bit and wipe off the excess with a clean rag.  Bike chain lube, clean canola oil, clean motor oil, reused french fry grease, dirty motor oil, in that order of preference.   Well, don't put the dirty motor oil, it's likely carcinogenic.

I’ve always thought a regular oil was even worse because dirt sticks and binds up between moving parts.

I joined a bike service co-op in grad school and once made the mistake of asking what lube I should use on my chain. 20 minutes later they were still actively debating while I packed up and went home.

My approach: (almost) any lubricant is better than none and chains are relatively cheap, easy to replace and fairly durable. So I…. Clean the chain, dry the chain, apply whatever oil/lube is within reach and then wipe off all excess. Done in under five minutes.

In other words, I try not to overcomplicate

It's because there's no right answer.  I find that it's very dependent upon the weather you ride in, the type of maintenance you do, and possibly your zodiac sign.  However, I cannot turn up the chance to discuss bike lube so here goes:

I like a thicker oil for salty winter rides.  It gets dirty faster, but the chain is less likely to rust than when using wax or light oils.  I like a thinner oil for most of the rest of the time, but it's not terribly dry or dusty where I live and I regularly ride through rain.  When using oils on the chain it's important to regularly wipe the chain off to keep from developing a paste of oil/rocks/bits of metal that will grind down your chain and components.

WD-40 will work in a pinch, but it's the shortest lasting oil that you can put on a chain.  If you're not planning to spray down with WD-40 on every ride, don't do it.  It will strip the regular oil out of your chain and leave you rusty as soon as it wears off (very quickly) and you contact moisture.

I've tried a couple waxes and never had luck with them, but many swear by using them in all conditions.  Might well be user error on my part.

I guess this is the difference between a dedicated cyclist and the occasional rider, which sounds like OP.  I've been using the same bike (with same chain) for the last 10 years.  I used to ride it around college campus mostly, with about 10 miles per week on it and now even less.  It got WD-40 probably 2x year, when I would say to myself "damn this thing is shifting like crap".  It still going strong (I think) and gets me where I want to go. 

[nereo]

I guess this is the difference between a dedicated cyclist and the occasional rider, which sounds like OP.  I've been using the same bike (with same chain) for the last 10 years.  I used to ride it around college campus mostly, with about 10 miles per week on it and now even less.  It got WD-40 probably 2x year, when I would say to myself "damn this thing is shifting like crap".  It still going strong (I think) and gets me where I want to go.

I've got a wild experiment for you to try.  Replace the chain,  and see if your bike feels, shifts and sounds any different.  I'd bet a box of donuts it will.  And if not... well you've only spent ~$20 on a mid-level chain.

[GuitarStv]

I guess this is the difference between a dedicated cyclist and the occasional rider, which sounds like OP.  I've been using the same bike (with same chain) for the last 10 years.  I used to ride it around college campus mostly, with about 10 miles per week on it and now even less.  It got WD-40 probably 2x year, when I would say to myself "damn this thing is shifting like crap".  It still going strong (I think) and gets me where I want to go.

I've got a wild experiment for you to try.  Replace the chain,  and see if your bike feels, shifts and sounds any different.  I'd bet a box of donuts it will.  And if not... well you've only spent ~$20 on a mid-level chain.

Actually, depending on how badly he has worn the chainrings and cassette it might shift worse after replacing the chain.  :P

[uniwelder]

I guess this is the difference between a dedicated cyclist and the occasional rider, which sounds like OP.  I've been using the same bike (with same chain) for the last 10 years.  I used to ride it around college campus mostly, with about 10 miles per week on it and now even less.  It got WD-40 probably 2x year, when I would say to myself "damn this thing is shifting like crap".  It still going strong (I think) and gets me where I want to go.

I've got a wild experiment for you to try.  Replace the chain,  and see if your bike feels, shifts and sounds any different.  I'd bet a box of donuts it will.  And if not... well you've only spent ~$20 on a mid-level chain.

Actually, depending on how badly he has worn the chainrings and cassette it might shift worse after replacing the chain.  :P

Exactly!  Better not to touch it. 

My bike does shift pretty smoothly when it's not been completely neglected.  Storing it out of the rain has done wonders for its overall health.  If it were perfectly tuned up, I'm sure I'd notice some difference, but not anything that would affect performance.  If I wanted to do that, I'd probably get more bang for my buck using a pressure gauge when I filled my tires or not wear jeans while riding.

[GuitarStv]

I guess this is the difference between a dedicated cyclist and the occasional rider, which sounds like OP.  I've been using the same bike (with same chain) for the last 10 years.  I used to ride it around college campus mostly, with about 10 miles per week on it and now even less.  It got WD-40 probably 2x year, when I would say to myself "damn this thing is shifting like crap".  It still going strong (I think) and gets me where I want to go.

I've got a wild experiment for you to try.  Replace the chain,  and see if your bike feels, shifts and sounds any different.  I'd bet a box of donuts it will.  And if not... well you've only spent ~$20 on a mid-level chain.

Actually, depending on how badly he has worn the chainrings and cassette it might shift worse after replacing the chain.  :P

Exactly!  Better not to touch it. 

My bike does shift pretty smoothly when it's not been completely neglected.  Storing it out of the rain has done wonders for its overall health.  If it were perfectly tuned up, I'm sure I'd notice some difference, but not anything that would affect performance.  If I wanted to do that, I'd probably get more bang for my buck using a pressure gauge when I filled my tires or not wear jeans while riding.

Just be careful standing and pedaling.  Those shark tooth rings will eventually slip the chain quite excitingly when you do.  :P

[uniwelder]

I guess this is the difference between a dedicated cyclist and the occasional rider, which sounds like OP.  I've been using the same bike (with same chain) for the last 10 years.  I used to ride it around college campus mostly, with about 10 miles per week on it and now even less.  It got WD-40 probably 2x year, when I would say to myself "damn this thing is shifting like crap".  It still going strong (I think) and gets me where I want to go.

I've got a wild experiment for you to try.  Replace the chain,  and see if your bike feels, shifts and sounds any different.  I'd bet a box of donuts it will.  And if not... well you've only spent ~$20 on a mid-level chain.

Actually, depending on how badly he has worn the chainrings and cassette it might shift worse after replacing the chain.  :P

Exactly!  Better not to touch it. 

My bike does shift pretty smoothly when it's not been completely neglected.  Storing it out of the rain has done wonders for its overall health.  If it were perfectly tuned up, I'm sure I'd notice some difference, but not anything that would affect performance.  If I wanted to do that, I'd probably get more bang for my buck using a pressure gauge when I filled my tires or not wear jeans while riding.

Just be careful standing and pedaling.  Those shark tooth rings will eventually slip the chain quite excitingly when you do.  :P

Yes, I have experienced that in my old bike, hence my 'new' freebie bike.  I'm sure in another 5-10 years, when this one starts giving me problems, they'll be another barely used abandoned bike on campus looking for a home.

edited to add--- reading some cycling forums, there seems to be a huge range of opinions on how many miles before replacing the chain.  Some people do every 1,500 miles, while others say they can go 10,000 miles.  On the lower end, the argument is that replacing the chain often prevents wear to the cassette and rings, while those on the high end say they just replace everything.  Of course the gold standard is to measure.  Also, chains made for 7 speed bikes are supposed to last much longer than those for 10 speeds, since they don't have to be so thin. 

My bike has a 7 speed rear, I've probably put less than 5,000 miles on it, and when I just measured it, it had less than 1/16" stretch over 12 inches.  It makes me wonder whether I've changed it at some point and forgotten, or if they really aren't as finicky as made out to be. 

Message to OP--- Trying to be relevant to your case, I'm thinking this means you won't ever have to worry about wearing out the chain on your bike.  You'll probably be ready for a new bike altogether whenever that happens.

[Wintergreen78]

See if there is a community bike shop in your area. They are non-profit shops set up for people to work on their own bikes and are becoming more common. The one near me will loan you tools for $5/visit and has people there to help you fix up your bike. They often teach basic maintenance classes too.

[BlueMR2]

Just be careful standing and pedaling.  Those shark tooth rings will eventually slip the chain quite excitingly when you do.  :P

Good general advice.  I just, for the second time in several years, broke a one-piece crank standing on the pedals to power across the road.  It's all fun and games until the pedals just flop around and you can't go anymore.  :D  Chainring nut was frozen, could not break it loose so ended up $147 later with a new crank, new chainring, new bottom bracket assembly, and I now own a bearing cup press tool...

I have to say, with the number of breakages I've had lately, the cost per mile for the bicycle has now exceeded that of my car...

[Sibley]

I am reporting back. Bike is clean. It is indeed blue (I like blue). Also, it is hilarious how snobbish some people are. Picking on Huffy bikes. Perfectly adequate for me. lol

Chain lube used: went to local bike store, asked for chain oil and the guy only winced internally. He recommended Finish Line Wax Bike Lubricant. That is what I got.

Cleaning: after I made a mess in the garage with the broom, I decided to take that approach first. I used a dry brush to get off as much of the dirt as I could. This was amazingly effective. It went from caked with mud to merely dirty. I was also smart and did this in the alley instead of the garage. After that, I hosed it down thoroughly, then a bucket of soapy water and cloth. I also used a pot scrubber because there was quite a bit of rust on the rims. This resulted in a generally clean bike. Used Simple Green and an old toothbrush to clean the chain and other workings. I did not get every speck of dirt or grease off, but I did get it respectably cleaned up, then attempted to dry it and applied the chain oil.

I then attempted to ride the bike. When I was actually on the bike pedaling, it was very comfortable, so the size of the bike in that regards is correct. When I stopped however, even with the seat at the lowest setting, my feet did not touch the ground, even if I leaned to one side a bit. I had to get off the seat completely in order to get a foot on the ground. I'm thinking it's just too tall.

Working of the bike: it needs attention. Both wheels are wobbly when spun, the front only a little, the back is enough that its a problem. The breaks are only half working - one side will close, but I think both sides are supposed to move? Both front and back. The chain is also rubbing on a piece, so that's not right. The shifter has something going on because it shifted randomly, and didn't shift when I tried to shift it. But, it does work. I rode it up and down the alley.

Realistically, I think I'm going to sell it as is because it's too big for me. However, if you could help me figure out what size bike I do need, that would be appreciated. I'll attach pictures of the bike next.

[Sibley]

The picture with arrow pointing at it, that's the piece the chain is rubbing on.

[Sibley]

More pics

[Sibley]

Last pic

[nereo]

Realistically, I think I'm going to sell it as is because it's too big for me. However, if you could help me figure out what size bike I do need, that would be appreciated. I'll attach pictures of the bike next.

Ok, well let’s start with how big this bike is… sounds like you need the next frame size down.  Somewhere on the post there should be a frame size sticker.  I don’t know if Huffy does S/M/L/XL with their frames or if they do cm or inches.

[Sibley]

The only thing I saw was a sticker on the back of the post at the bottom. It reads  36679  91319  13F83.

Internet tells me that bikes are measured from the "centre of the crank axle, to the top of the seat tube". That measurement on this bike is 18 inches, or actually probably a little more because I measured from the top of the round piece that the pedals attach to. The internet tells me that for my height (5'3"), my suggested frame size is 15 inches. No wonder I can't reach the ground!

[FINate]

That thing rubbing the chain is the front derailleur, probably just needs to be adjusted.  Looks like this bike is a 3x6 (so 18 total gears) ... I haven't seen a three ring crank in forever, wonder how old this bike is :)

In any case, watch some videos on how to adjust a front derailleur. There should be screws for setting the stops (extent of high and low range), and perhaps something on/near the shifter. Your goal is to be able to sift the three front chain rings w/o rubbing or the chain popping off.

Oh... and don't cross chain, which is being at opposite ends of the gears on front vs. back. Bad for the drive train and really difficult to tune the derailleur to avoid rubbing while cross chain.

If the bike is really old the shifters may not have any sort of fixed/discrete stops and just be a lever with continuous motion. If that's the case, the rider needs to adjust the shifter while shifting to avoid chain rub.

ETA: Both sides of the V-Brakes should move freely other than a spring to return them to the open position. The side that's not moving is probably stuck due to corrosion. I would try to wiggle it free and use WD-40 to clean/lube it while wiggling it. Would also consider trying to remove the stuck caliper if possible w/o striping/breaking anything.

[GuitarStv]

I then attempted to ride the bike. When I was actually on the bike pedaling, it was very comfortable, so the size of the bike in that regards is correct. When I stopped however, even with the seat at the lowest setting, my feet did not touch the ground, even if I leaned to one side a bit. I had to get off the seat completely in order to get a foot on the ground. I'm thinking it's just too tall.

I'm guessing the top tube is parallel to the ground like this:


Rather than slanted down to the saddle like this:


Proper starting/stopping a bike should involve fully dismounting the saddle so this isn't necessarily a problem.  Some people (depending on body proportions and height of bottom bracket/length of cranks) end up having to dismount completely to touch the ground at all in saddle.

[Sibley]

No, the top tube is slanted down. And even with the slant it's a bit uncomfortable to stand with the bike.

Yes it's 18 gears, but the gear handle things are not the old lever style (I have seen those!) FINate.

I suspect that someone with knowledge can get it working just fine in an hour or so, but honestly I've already fallen off it once trying to get off. And yeah, I'm out of practice and stiff but I don't want to fall all the time trying to get on or off the bike.

[FINate]

Yes it's 18 gears, but the gear handle things are not the old lever style (I have seen those!) FINate.

Ok, then there's likely some way to adjust the cable for the proper indexing. Here's a generic overview video that may help you get started: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNG7g83lI-s

[GuitarStv]

No, the top tube is slanted down. And even with the slant it's a bit uncomfortable to stand with the bike.

Bike is almost certainly too big for you then if it's got a slanted top tube and you're still having those problems.  It'll probably feel OK for short rides, but the reach will start to hurt your arms and lower back on longer ones.  I think you would be a lot happier with a smaller frame.

[Sibley]

No, the top tube is slanted down. And even with the slant it's a bit uncomfortable to stand with the bike.

Bike is almost certainly too big for you then if it's got a slanted top tube and you're still having those problems.  It'll probably feel OK for short rides, but the reach will start to hurt your arms and lower back on longer ones.  I think you would be a lot happier with a smaller frame.

That's the plan. Just have to find a proper sized bike now. And, sell this one so someone who can use it gets a bike.

[Sibley]

Update: I found a new to me bike. It is the correct size and aside from the color is exactly what I want. It needed a bath and needs a new kickstand, but otherwise in good working order.

[GuitarStv]

Good news!  I'm pretty sure that having a bike in the correct colour is like a 15% speed boost at least.  Although as long as there exist upright objects in the world (bench, wall, post, etc.) no bike requires a kickstand.  :P

[Sibley]

Good news!  I'm pretty sure that having a bike in the correct colour is like a 15% speed boost at least.  Although as long as there exist upright objects in the world (bench, wall, post, etc.) no bike requires a kickstand.  :P

LOL, you're right about the color. This one is rose gold which I hate, but it is literally EXACTLY what I wanted: fenders, chain guard, gears, and correct size. My sister told me I should put stickers all over it. That is a possibility. And I have never been a speed demon.

And you are right, but I want a kickstand.

[lthenderson]

This one is rose gold which I hate, ... My sister told me I should put stickers all over it. That is a possibility.

Many years ago, I found an old Schwinn road bike that had a broken frame. Since at that time (and perhaps still) the frames are guaranteed for life, I filed a claim and received a brand new road bike of the latest style since they no longer made the old frame. However, I didn't get a choice of color and it came in a horrible color. I spent a weekend stripping off the components from the bike and then spray painting it with a rattle can of paint and a clear coat and then reassembling everything. The paint job I'm sure wasn't professional but it held up well for the next 20 years or so before I eventually sold the bike. The best part was the taking apart and assembling, taught me how the bike worked so to speak and made me a much better mechanic when I was older and had much more expensive bicycles.

[Just Joe]

What make/model bike is this by the way? 

Some $20 bikes are absolutely worth lavishing some love on. 

Some, well.... aren't.   But sometimes their frames make for great candidates for a tall bike build.  :D

That tall bike looks like a very efficient way to break a leg. ;)