DIY Car Maintenance starter tools?

[smrf]

Hello Mustachians,

We DIY almost all of our home improvement projects, and I'd like to branch out to doing my own car maintenance. What's a good starting point for tools?

You can assume:
* I have all the basic carpentry/home improvement tools.
* I need some way to lift the car up for a part replacement I need to do soon. I want to know safe/secure options for this.

Thank you!

[Uturn]

Sears often have mechanic starter sets on sale, anything from 75 piece to over 300.  Keep an eye out there.  If you have only imports, all you need is metric.  If you have domestic, you will need metric and SAE.

To lift the car, floor jack, jack stands, and wheel chocks.  In my opinion, these three are non-negotiable.  I've seen too many cars fall off scissor and bottle jacks, those are for roadside emergency use.  Ramps are also scary if not done correctly.  If you need specialty tools, rent them.  Sure it's nice having them at your disposal, but I've only  used my strut compressors 3 times in the last 15 years. 

[acroy]

Nice floor jack (1 minimum, 2 better)
Nice 6ton jack stands, 2 pair (they are overkill and more expensive than 3ton but worth the extra safety/security)
Complete ¼, 3/8, and ½ ratchet sets, from 6mm to 23mm.
½” drive breaker bar and 1/2 to 3/8” adapter
A couple extra 3/8 extensions
3/8 ‘wobble’ extension (this comes in very handy for slightly-offset fasteners! May have to get elsewhere)
Complete set of combination wrenches
Quality head light (invaluable)
Telescoping magnetic pen (you’ll need it)

Harbor Freight is good place for jacks, stands, acceptable-quality tools. Watch for 20% off coupons.

When you do work under the car involving fluids:
It’s super handy to have waste cardboard sheet as catch-all under there.

If you plan to do your own maintenance, $400 or so will get you 90% of the way there. You’ll still have to run out for specialized tool every now and then…

Good luck!

[zolotiyeruki]

Uturn is right about the jack, stands, and chocks.

I do almost all my own car work, and here are the tools I use the most, after the jack, stands, and chocks:
--set of combination wrenches (mine are metric, and go from 8mm to 19mm)
--Oil collection pan
--Funnel
--Rags
--Socket set and ratchet.  It's worth spending extra to get a high-quality ratchet, because tight spaces are annoying.  Have a few extensions as well.
--a set of 1/2" drive deep impact sockets ($20 at walmart) and an 18" breaker bar ($15).  Used for bigger stuff, like suspension parts and crankshaft bolts (when replacing a timing belt)

There are a few specialty tools I've acquired over the years for specific jobs, but that list above will get you 95% of the way there.  Other tools you can borrow for free from places like Autozone.

For parts, I buy from RockAuto.com.  You can get higher quality parts for lower prices than your local car parts stores.

[big_owl]

Good torque wrench.  Because you'll instantly negate any costs you might have saved by DIY if you strip the threads out of that ever-important lightweight piece of aluminum that you were tightening your bolt in to.

[Thinkum]

In addition to all mentioned, I would recommend a good oil filter wrench. I have both the loop style as well as the socket type. The socket type work GREAT in tight engine bays.

Here is the socket type I'm talking about: http://www.autozone.com/shop-and-garage-tools/oil-filter-wrench/oem-2-1-2-to-3-1-8-in-import-oil-filter-wrench/548378_0_0/

[Uturn]

Acroy mentioned a magnet on a stick, another purchase you will never regret.  I would also add a mirror on a stick.

[acroy]

In addition to all mentioned, I would recommend a good oil filter wrench. I have both the loop style as well as the socket type. The socket type work GREAT in tight engine bays.

Here is the socket type I'm talking about: http://www.autozone.com/shop-and-garage-tools/oil-filter-wrench/oem-2-1-2-to-3-1-8-in-import-oil-filter-wrench/548378_0_0/

NICE, I just ordered one. Iv'e had the loop for years but had an application last weekend it would not work.

[argonaut_astronaut]

In addition to all mentioned, I would recommend a good oil filter wrench. I have both the loop style as well as the socket type. The socket type work GREAT in tight engine bays.

Here is the socket type I'm talking about: http://www.autozone.com/shop-and-garage-tools/oil-filter-wrench/oem-2-1-2-to-3-1-8-in-import-oil-filter-wrench/548378_0_0/

NICE, I just ordered one. Iv'e had the loop for years but had an application last weekend it would not work.

I have been changing my own oil for twenty years and have never needed an oil filter wrench. You only need to tighten the filter 3/4 turn after the gasket touches so after the first change with the proper torque you won't ever need it again. Furthermore, if your local grease monkey happens to crank that thing on there so tight you cant move it you can usually hammer a pry bar or *gasp* a screwdriver through it for a handle.

Am I missing something? YMMV.

[argonaut_astronaut]

In agreement with everyone else, I think you should purchase your jack stands before you ever slide under that car. You can use the jack that comes with the car for changing a tire for starters, but absolutely never without a pair of jack stands under the frame/jack points.

I will disagree with some that you need a full set of sockets and wrenches to get started. A good start:

• Jack Stands!
• Decent 3/8" drive ratchet
• 2' pry bar (screwdrivers are not mini pry bars)
• 3/8" drive 2' breaker bar
• Set of 3/8" drive deep sockets in either SAE or metric to match your car
• 3/8" wobble
• 3/8" extension set (usually 2", 4" and 6")
• Set of box end wrenches in either SAE or metric to match your car
• Set of standard and phillips drive screwdrivers in various diameters and lengths
• Penetrating lubricant of some sort (e.g. PB Blaster and not WD-40)
• Box of nitrile gloves (the black gloves seem to be thicker for whatever reason)
• Work lamp (LED because you will break a bulb when you drop it)

If you need a specialty tool or an odd sized socket or driver of some sort check the pawn shops first. They all have an amazing array of used stuff sold individually. Example: found the 18mm hex driver for pulling a frost plug at a pawn shop for $1 that was going to cost me $20 new. Only needed it for the one thing and have never used it again.
 

[Thinkum]

In addition to all mentioned, I would recommend a good oil filter wrench. I have both the loop style as well as the socket type. The socket type work GREAT in tight engine bays.

Here is the socket type I'm talking about: http://www.autozone.com/shop-and-garage-tools/oil-filter-wrench/oem-2-1-2-to-3-1-8-in-import-oil-filter-wrench/548378_0_0/

NICE, I just ordered one. Iv'e had the loop for years but had an application last weekend it would not work.

I have been changing my own oil for twenty years and have never needed an oil filter wrench. You only need to tighten the filter 3/4 turn after the gasket touches so after the first change with the proper torque you won't ever need it again. Furthermore, if your local grease monkey happens to crank that thing on there so tight you cant move it you can usually hammer a pry bar or *gasp* a screwdriver through it for a handle.

Am I missing something? YMMV.

I've done everything when it comes to trying to get a stuck oil filter off. The easiest, and most cost effective for me is the socket type. In addition, I have only had cars with small/tight engine bays. Not enough room to even put a screwdriver really. I never over tighten my filters and yet sometimes they just get stuck. Could be ambient heat in addition to the engine bay heat. Either way, for $4-6, it makes life easier.

[Blal]

In addition to everything mentioned:

Caliper tool, because trying to twist a wrench or pliers into your caliper notches to wind it back can be a pain in the ass when they get stuck, and when it's stuck, you're not going to be able to drive o the store to get a caliper tool.

A can of red grease, always regrease your caliper pins when you work on your brakes.

A rubber mallet. You probably have one but in case you don't, it makes loosening bolts with the smaller wrenches much easier. You don't want to be that guy smacking your wrench with your ratchet head trying to get it to move.

[Thinkum]

In addition to everything mentioned:

Caliper tool, because trying to twist a wrench or pliers into your caliper notches to wind it back can be a pain in the ass when they get stuck, and when it's stuck, you're not going to be able to drive o the store to get a caliper tool.

A can of red grease, always regrease your caliper pins when you work on your brakes.

A rubber mallet. You probably have one but in case you don't, it makes loosening bolts with the smaller wrenches much easier. You don't want to be that guy smacking your wrench with your ratchet head trying to get it to move.

Actually, I have always borrowed the caliper tool from parts stores for free.

[acroy]

I have been changing my own oil for twenty years and have never needed an oil filter wrench. You only need to tighten the filter 3/4 turn after the gasket touches so after the first change with the proper torque you won't ever need it again. Furthermore, if your local grease monkey happens to crank that thing on there so tight you cant move it you can usually hammer a pry bar or *gasp* a screwdriver through it for a handle.

Am I missing something? YMMV.

I've been doing my own for 18yrs, (I'll catch you! haha). I coat the gasket with fresh oil and do the correct 3/4 spin.
One filter is very recessed and hard to get hold of, so I have to use the wrench occasionally. I change at 5k, which is usually less than 1/yr.
The recent fight was a filter on a new (to me) car and was crazy tight, in addition to having poor access.
The hammer/screwdriver is a good 'nuclear' option, though once even that failed. The screwdriver just tore through the sheetmetal filter. That one ended up needing a butane torch to melt the rubber gasket. It was a mess....

[Uturn]

That one ended up needing a butane torch to melt the rubber gasket. It was a mess....

butane torch and petroleum products.  Can I hold your beer and watch?  :) 

[Reddleman]

And definitely make use of free "loaner" tools at your local auto parts stores.  Pullers, presses, vacuum and fuel pressure gauges, etc. are all available.  Basically you "buy" the tool and then return it for full value. 

I use autozone because it's local and has a good selection.  I also tend to buy most of my fluids and occasionally parts there as a thank you for their services.

[smrf]

Wow! Thanks everyone, this is amazing. Ask a question, get busy with work for the rest of the day, check in the next morning — blam! Tons of expert advice. Now to start pricing all of this stuff out. I'm definitely going with the most secure setup for getting the car off the ground. Honestly I'll never go under there if I don't feel safe. I'll post updates here with the final list, so maybe that will be useful for other people.

[smrf]

So I just so happen to be able to buy stuff at cost from McMaster. Any of these jack stands or floor jacks look good? (ignore the pricing, it's significantly marked up).

http://www.mcmaster.com/#jack-stands/=117ho77
http://www.mcmaster.com/#floor-jacks/=117ho3c

[Thinkum]

Going off your links, this is they type I've always used: http://www.mcmaster.com/#jack-stands/=117hr4v.

However, you can routinely get these for $20-30 at Harbor Freight or Sears. I got 3-ton jack stands at Harbor Freight for $20 without a coupon. And they almost always have a coupon.

[zolotiyeruki]

A can of red grease, always regrease your caliper pins when you work on your brakes.

A rubber mallet. You probably have one but in case you don't, it makes loosening bolts with the smaller wrenches much easier. You don't want to be that guy smacking your wrench with your ratchet head trying to get it to move.

Seconded on both the grease and the mallet.  To date, I've just used a hunk of 2x4 in place of a mallet, but it would be nice to have a proper tool for the job.  And the grease!  I'd add to that "anti-seize" for putting bolts back in, so that you can get them out the next time.

[patrat]

McMaster stuff is almost always pretty good. Since you have an inside connection, you may be able to find out the brand before you buy.

For the jack stands, pay attention to the minimum height. I have a great set that I left behind when I moved, because they were too tall (when fully collapsed) to fit under my car, using the floor jack I had.

8059T31   I would recommend for typical cars, wagons and minivans.
8059T32 I would recommend for trucks, suvs, and full size vans that are taller.

You can get away with a set of 2, a set of 4 covers all scenarios. For beginning, I'd say get a single pair and then get more if you need them.

For the jack, if from McMaster, get this:    2908T15

One will do, for getting started.

Then, a good set of sockets with ratchet handles and combination wrenches, in the appropriate sizes for your vehicle. If metric, I recommend a size range spanning 6mm to 21mm; that covers most work. Also, a good set of L-shape allen/hex wrenches, and some screwdrivers. Craftsman, Husky, Stanley, and Kobalt are good choices that are easy to get warranty replacement if they fail. I think McMaster stocks stuff from Proto, which is higher end than these. Ratcheting wrenches are a luxury upgrade, but not neccesary for starting.

Skip the mechanic's creeper, It often makes things harder by making your face too close to the work.

You MUST get good eye protection and a decent headlamp. Plenty of good choices here. If you can handle the discomfort, full lab goggles are safest. For headlamps, check the camping section of your store. Lots of good brands. Outdoor specialty stores like REI will have higher end. I am partial to a high end internet-only brand called zebralight. You will want something that has a wide and even beam, sometimes called "flood".

A cheap electrical multimeter is helpful for anything electrical.

Buy or find the factory maintenance manual for your car, it is better than the other choices. Sometimes you can find these on ebay in digital form; not sure if they are legal. Youtube and general google search are great resources, often specific to your car and the work you are doing.

Auto parts stores will loan you most specialty tools, call around when you need one.

If doing anything in the interior, get the cheap plastic prybars sold for the purpose. Harbor freight is fine for these. Avoid harbor freight otherwise.

[argonaut_astronaut]

A cheap electrical multimeter is helpful for anything electrical.

A newbie might consider a test lamp rather than a multi-meter just for ease of use. You ground the thing and a press the probe onto a conductive surface and a bulb lights up. Example: http://smile.amazon.com/Professional-6-12V-Circuit-Tester-Indicator/dp/B003UHNMMS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456166860&sr=8-1&keywords=automotive+test+lamp

[Bikesglad]

I didn't see it mentioned but OBDII readers that pair with a smart phone can be had for less than $20 and come in really handy when dealing with emissions issues. Although most part stores will read the codes for you for free as well.

I second borrowing specialty tools from the local parts store (Autozone and Discount auto parts definitely have these programs not sure of others).

On particularly difficult to diagnose problems I have been know to take my car to the mechanic for a diagnosis ($50 to $100) and then do the part replacement(s) my self. Any monkey (including myself) can replace parts on a car, sometimes diagnosing the problem takes a lot more experience.

[RurallyFrugal]

You'll also find you may need a special socket or wrench for your specific car. For example, the caliper bolts on my wife's car are 7mm hex. Guess which size doesn't come in a standard set of metric hex wrenches? 

You don't have to have all the fancy wrenches. Sure, they might speed you up, but doing manual labor is therapy for lots of people. Savor it.

I use Advance Auto for everything. Stick with one store, doesn't have to be that one, and sign up for rewards. I routinely get everything for an oil change for $20 or less, name brand oil. Coupons constantly for $5 off a $10 purchase, $20 off a $50 purchase, etc.

And prowl the automotive forums for your specific car. I promise one exists somewhere, no matter the car. You'll get specific info on your car, from someone who has had your exact same problem, and usually there's an ASE certified mechanic moderating the forum.

[Primm]

I can't see that anybody's mentioned ratcheting spanners yet. Not sockets, but the "wrench" type of spanners.

Serious game-changer when it comes to tightening and loosening bolts in difficult to access areas. I've done two engine refits on my car, one before and one after I bought a set of ratcheting spanners. The difference between the two jobs was night and day. There are some things you simply can't get a socket onto.

[JLee]

Don't worry about buying everything you might need -- just start with a decent socket/wrench set and add items as you need them.  A 4-way tire iron is handy to have (or a breaker bar with appropriate sockets for lugs).  A torque wrench can be helpful to ensure you aren't over/under torquing fasteners.  Don't use a torque wrench to loosen stuff, though - only to tighten.

I can't see that anybody's mentioned ratcheting spanners yet. Not sockets, but the "wrench" type of spanners.

Serious game-changer when it comes to tightening and loosening bolts in difficult to access areas. I've done two engine refits on my car, one before and one after I bought a set of ratcheting spanners. The difference between the two jobs was night and day. There are some things you simply can't get a socket onto.

Example.  They are amazing.

For floor jacks, I quite like the one that Costco sells for ~$100.

[Manguy888]

I'm about one month ahead of you - my new years resolution was to learn more about my car and do some of my own maintenance. So I think I can provide some good input since I just did the first round of buying.

 - I got a sears mechanic tool kit for Christmas - this has been great so far. Only issue is it didn't come with a torque wrench.
 - So I bought a torque wrench ($40 on amazon). This has been great, I was really concerned with overtightening and now that problem is solved
 - I bought rhino ramps to lift the car, but this ended up being a bad choice. They're easy to use, but since you're driving up on them, you can't take the wheels off or do brake work (fine for oil changes though).
 - So I bought a jack stand on amazon. under $100. Haven't used it yet, but I'm rotating my wheels this weekend so I'll report back
 - I also have jack stands and wheel chocks - necessary whether you're using ramps or jackstands
 - some gloves, tech wipes and funnels

I've been able to do some simple maintenance with the above, with a total investment of maybe $300. Two oil changes and a DIY brake job and I've made back my investment.