Car Oil Filter Recommendations

[Mike2]

What is your preferred oil filter brand and why?

[Spork]

I buy Wix.  But there are a number of pretty decent filters out there.

I got stuck on Wix back when someone did a study of every filter he could find for his car.  Wix had both higher quality filter paper and more of it (more pleats).

Google around... you'll find several equivalent studies.  Purolater also makes high quality filters.

[guitar_stitch]

This has the potential to ruffle feathers...

I use Purolator PureONE or Bosch filters.  I go 10K between oil changes using Wal Mart (Supertech) brand synthetic oil.  I have been on this regimen since I started driving, only one motor with a catastrophic failure.  That was not the oil so much as it was excess testosterone and a lack of intelligence.  Age corrected that balance.

[acroy]

o man, you here to start a fight? emotions can run high on this one!! :)

Personally I stick with M1 products, 10,000 mile changes. The oil is cheap (for full synth); the filters are not, but are known to be consistently good.
Filter reading: http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/oilfilterstudy.html

M1 Coupons!! (works at my local walmart...) Final cost of 5qts+filter is about $22.

https://mobiloil.com/en/promotion/mobil-promotions

[Jack]

Fram Ultra has a very good reputation on the bobistheoilguy.com forums, is less expensive than most other "premium" / synthetic-oil / designed-for-extended-oil-changes filters, and has a grippy coating which makes it much easier to install and remove on my Miata (which has very little clearance -- I can barely get my hand in there, let alone a tool).

Regular orange Fram filters are utter garbage, prone to actual failure (not just poor filtering), and IMO should never be used.

I use Fram Ultra on my Miata and Ranger. On my VW TDI, which uses cartridge filters, I buy Mann or Mahle (which are OEM suppliers to VW).

[BlueMR2]

Mobil1 on my Eclipse.  It's a real tight squeeze to get the oil filter past the downpipe, and the M1 filter is the easiest I've found to get through there.

Toyota OEM on my MR2.  I've tried some other brands, but they don't seem to have the anti-drainback feature.  Without that, oil pressure comes up slower and the engine rattles on start (this one has the oil filter upside down on the top of the engine).

Suzuki OEM on my Katana.  Same price as the others, perfect fit, seems to work fine.  Why take a chance?

[Syonyk]

Wix or Napa Gold (same thing, generally).

Failing that, "Anything but FRAM."  FRAM filters having, on occasion, been known to fully dismantle themselves and fill the bottom end of engine with paper/cardboard.

[Thegoblinchief]

Stores local to me only carry Fram Ultra and Microgard (base). I've used both on various cars with no issues. I do like the grippy bottom of the Fram Ultras.

[thurston howell iv]

While I've read the horror stories and seen the videos with the various filters cut apart, I've used regular fram for years... I have had them on all my cars- most of them very high mileage (150k+) with absolutely zero issues... That said, I do change my oil with regularity and do not let the intervals go more than 3k miles - most of the cars run full synthetic (Castrol gtx, Mobil 1, or Rotella)

If I can find the better filter when I'm prepping for an oil change, I'll buy it but I'm not going out of my way for one.

[BeerBeard]

While I've read the horror stories and seen the videos with the various filters cut apart, I've used regular fram for years... I have had them on all my cars- most of them very high mileage (150k+) with absolutely zero issues... That said, I do change my oil with regularity and do not let the intervals go more than 3k miles - most of the cars run full synthetic (Castrol gtx, Mobil 1, or Rotella)

If I can find the better filter when I'm prepping for an oil change, I'll buy it but I'm not going out of my way for one.

You're probably doing more harm then good with a 3k interval, unless you drive less than 3k a year.  Also 150k isn't high mileage. Assuming your car is naturally aspirated and liquid cooled you are wasting a shitload of money on sythentic oil you dont need, especially at a 3k change interval.

[ketchup]

Mobil 1 filter.  Store-brand generic synthetic oil.  Change interval varies depending on highway or city miles.

[MrMoneyMaxwell]

Mobil 1 filter & Mobil 1 oil... because the oil was on sale at Cost Co. I have a relatively new car from before I was more frugal, 2010 Honda with ~70000 miles on it. Luckily, I'm settled in my current area and am able to bike to work now, so mileage will be down.

I replace oil every 5k.

[MrMoneyMaxwell]

Also, the Mobil 1 oil comes in a box with 6 qt bottles, my car only takes 4 qts so I have some leftover for the next time I change it.

[RWD]

Another Wix user here. They're very good quality without being unreasonably priced.

[HipGnosis]

I did a lot of internet searching and settled on Purolator PureONE filters long ago.
Then I got a Volvo, which uses cartridge filters.  After buying one at the parts store, I now buy them from RockAuto (a few at a time).  My first order was for a Wix and a Mann.  The Wix has more filter media for the same price.

[Spork]

I did a lot of internet searching and settled on Purolator PureONE filters long ago.
Then I got a Volvo, which uses cartridge filters.  After buying one at the parts store, I now buy them from RockAuto (a few at a time).  My first order was for a Wix and a Mann.  The Wix has more filter media for the same price.

Side question:  Why in the world have some modern cars gone back to cartridge filters?  My DW's RAV4 has one.  I thought these were a nasty, messy thing from a bygone era.  I actually converted my 75 Triumph from a god awful cartridge to a more typical spin on years ago (though I know of no such kit for a RAV4).

[BeerBeard]

I did a lot of internet searching and settled on Purolator PureONE filters long ago.
Then I got a Volvo, which uses cartridge filters.  After buying one at the parts store, I now buy them from RockAuto (a few at a time).  My first order was for a Wix and a Mann.  The Wix has more filter media for the same price.

Side question:  Why in the world have some modern cars gone back to cartridge filters?  My DW's RAV4 has one.  I thought these were a nasty, messy thing from a bygone era.  I actually converted my 75 Triumph from a god awful cartridge to a more typical spin on years ago (though I know of no such kit for a RAV4).

Maybe because the auto manufacture can produce quality valves, and then you only need to replace the filter media. IMO, solving a problem that doesn't exist.

[HipGnosis]

I did a lot of internet searching and settled on Purolator PureONE filters long ago.
Then I got a Volvo, which uses cartridge filters.  After buying one at the parts store, I now buy them from RockAuto (a few at a time).  My first order was for a Wix and a Mann.  The Wix has more filter media for the same price.

Side question:  Why in the world have some modern cars gone back to cartridge filters?  My DW's RAV4 has one.  I thought these were a nasty, messy thing from a bygone era.  I actually converted my 75 Triumph from a god awful cartridge to a more typical spin on years ago (though I know of no such kit for a RAV4).

The question that I ask about them is: why do these cartridge filters cost more than the 'normal' filters that come with a housing and a bypass valve?!?!

[zolotiyeruki]

You're probably doing more harm then good with a 3k interval, unless you drive less than 3k a year.  Also 150k isn't high mileage. Assuming your car is naturally aspirated and liquid cooled you are wasting a shitload of money on sythentic oil you dont need, especially at a 3k change interval.

Why would changing the oil *more* often be doing harm?  I ask because my car gets <5k miles/year, and I change the oil every 6 months.

[Jack]

Side question:  Why in the world have some modern cars gone back to cartridge filters?  My DW's RAV4 has one.  I thought these were a nasty, messy thing from a bygone era.  I actually converted my 75 Triumph from a god awful cartridge to a more typical spin on years ago (though I know of no such kit for a RAV4).

Personally, I like the cartridge filter on my VW. It's right-side-up so that oil doesn't pour out of it when it's removed, and you don't have to cut it open to inspect the filter media for tears or debris.

You're probably doing more harm then good with a 3k interval, unless you drive less than 3k a year.  Also 150k isn't high mileage. Assuming your car is naturally aspirated and liquid cooled you are wasting a shitload of money on sythentic oil you dont need, especially at a 3k change interval.

Why would changing the oil *more* often be doing harm?  I ask because my car gets <5k miles/year, and I change the oil every 6 months.

First of all, in general: every time you mess with the system, there's at least a slight risk of screwing something up. All things being equal, a machine that's only touched when it actually needs maintenance will have less go wrong than one that's poked and prodded unnecessarily.

Second, this forum thread is a discussion about why changing oil too often in particular can be harmful. (TL;DR: volatility.)

[BeerBeard]

You're probably doing more harm then good with a 3k interval, unless you drive less than 3k a year.  Also 150k isn't high mileage. Assuming your car is naturally aspirated and liquid cooled you are wasting a shitload of money on sythentic oil you dont need, especially at a 3k change interval.

Why would changing the oil *more* often be doing harm?  I ask because my car gets <5k miles/year, and I change the oil every 6 months.

Basically the volatile ingredients in your oil, combined with fuel from a DI engine, cause deposits/buildup. Changing your oil more often than needed will put more of these volatile components through your engine which equals more "gunk" deposits and the zinc/phosphate from the oil will also cause your catalytic converter to fail before it otherwise would have.

If you're going to do a 3k change interval, use a good conventional oil without a bunch of additives that synthetics usually have. You don't "need" synthetic oil on a liquid cooled naturally aspirated engine, it has benefits over conventional oil but you will see none of then with 3k change interval.

[Papa Mustache]

Wix = NAPA Gold Filter for my Honda CR-V (~290 mi) and Chevy Malibu (~150K mi).

Mahle for my VWs

That said I used Purolator filters for years. Saw north of 300K on a Honda Accord with Havoline conventional oil and Purolator filter.

Honda gets Mobil 1, everything else gets Havoline conventional oil.