Solve my drafty rental apartment windows!

[ElleFiji]

Hi friends! I rent a really great apartment. The windows are horrifically drafty. Curtains blowing around, small gap in the frame in one place....

Last year I used window plastic. It did not fare terribly well. The double sided tape struggled with the strength of the drafts, and I had to reinforce with packing tape. I also had to use unorthodox positioning to also cover gaps in the metal frame.

Obviously we can skip muttering about how it's illegal and the landlord should buy me new windows. That is unlikely to happen anytime soon.

I can budget up to $100 for solutions, or I can go to dollarama for more plastic, and be extremely generous with tape.

[Ms.BecomingFI]

Can you use some putty in the frame gap?

[ElleFiji]

Can you use some putty in the frame gap?

Maybe in the visible hole, but it isn't the draftiest spot. I'm a little worried that could get in the tracks and cause damage

[Bracken_Joy]

In past crappy rental, I did: tinfoil on the windows, then a layer of carboard, then plastic and duct tape over all of it. Ugly as hell but it kept me warmer. Curtains over it to hide it from the inside. Ummm, just be aware that any solution that can trap moisture can cause mold.

[BudgetSlasher]

If it is just the gaps you are after you could try either:

A putty like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Building-Products-1-8-in-x-90-ft-Flexible-Caulking-Cord-Weatherstrip-71548/100353483

or weatherstripping caulk that is removable like: https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Seal-N-Peel-10-1-oz-Clear-Removable-Weatherstrip-Sealant-18393/207187225 or https://www.homedepot.com/p/Zip-A-Way-10-1-oz-Removable-Weather-Stripping-0606/202261764 (I've used the DAP product before)

If you prefer to built  a solution, I know several people who build frames like these http://www.arttec.net/Thermal-Windows/ for their windows in the winter. Done right they should stop the draft and also add an air layer for additional insulation.

One thing to look for where the air is going, or more precisely leaving. If air is blowing into the building it is also finding a way out. It could be another window, every single electrical outlet, an ill fitting door, the attic access hatch, gaping holes around the plumbing, or the bathroom exhaust fan. Depending on your comfort level, your relationship with your landlord . . . or what you think you can get away with you could address those points as well.

[ElleFiji]

In past crappy rental, I did: tinfoil on the windows, then a layer of carboard, then plastic and duct tape over all of it. Ugly as hell but it kept me warmer. Curtains over it to hide it from the inside. Ummm, just be aware that any solution that can trap moisture can cause mold.

the moisture can seep outside!

Were you directly on the glass? And fire safe? Or safe enough? I am strongly tempted by sheets of insulation

[Bracken_Joy]

In past crappy rental, I did: tinfoil on the windows, then a layer of carboard, then plastic and duct tape over all of it. Ugly as hell but it kept me warmer. Curtains over it to hide it from the inside. Ummm, just be aware that any solution that can trap moisture can cause mold.

the moisture can seep outside!

Were you directly on the glass? And fire safe? Or safe enough? I am strongly tempted by sheets of insulation

Re: fire safe. I tried to have it so the window would still open pretty easily if I needed to get out, but it probably would not have made a fire chief happy. At that point, my thinking was probably something along the lines of "for the love of god, at least if there's a fire I'd feel warm for a bit."

How does that work with the temporary caulk solutions too I wonder?

[ElleFiji]

If it is just the gaps you are after you could try either:

A putty like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Building-Products-1-8-in-x-90-ft-Flexible-Caulking-Cord-Weatherstrip-71548/100353483

or weatherstripping caulk that is removable like: https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Seal-N-Peel-10-1-oz-Clear-Removable-Weatherstrip-Sealant-18393/207187225 or https://www.homedepot.com/p/Zip-A-Way-10-1-oz-Removable-Weather-Stripping-0606/202261764 (I've used the DAP product before)

If you prefer to built  a solution, I know several people who build frames like these http://www.arttec.net/Thermal-Windows/ for their windows in the winter. Done right they should stop the draft and also add an air layer for additional insulation.

One thing to look for where the air is going, or more precisely leaving. If air is blowing into the building it is also finding a way out. It could be another window, every single electrical outlet, an ill fitting door, the attic access hatch, gaping holes around the plumbing, or the bathroom exhaust fan. Depending on your comfort level, your relationship with your landlord . . . or what you think you can get away with you could address those points as well.

It's a big building...all the cold air flows in through the windows on my side of the building with the wind. Without the wind, I'm sure it also seeps out. When you open the door into the hallway, you break the seal and the air rushes out.

The property management megacorp will not address the windows until they see fit. They have been doing cosmetic renos, and in a friend's building did windows, which adds hope. She also pays $500(a third) more in rent than I do. They could easily get $350 more per month than I'm currently paying, maybe a full $600. The rental market here is serious.

The frame idea is definitely something to consider! Thanks for the link

@Bracken_Joy - currently under two comforters and a cat, feeling less concerned about safety

[Boll weevil]

I would try foam backing rod or weatherstripping. Backing rod is basically a foam rope (usually without an adhesive), and you can probably put it in the frame channel. Weatherstripping has an adhesive, but I'd still consider applying it either to the glass or the frame (metal or maybe wood; I wouldn't trust plastic to stand up to the scrubbing and scraping needed to clean off the adhesive) of the moveable pane, trying to overhang the edge so it presses against the fixed pane.

If you're more worried about cost than appearance, it may be cheaper to buy a pool noodle and cut it into smaller pieces instead of buying the backing rod.

If there's some sort of casing or molding surrounding the opening, I'd consider putting a bead of caulking where it meets the wall.

[CheapskateWife]

I used bubble wrap and packing tape around the frame in my old apartment in the winter...it allowed ambient light in but really improved the Rvalue on the window.

https://home.howstuffworks.com/green-living/insulate-windows-bubble-wrap.htm

[TheWifeHalf]

Warning - I am a sewer and creative
38 years ago we bought an old house with plans to renovate 'in the future.'
We had very drafty windows, I had lots of time, so we (mostly me) bought some sticky back velcro and put one side around the window.
Then I sewed something with the mate of the velcro on the back, so that air coming through was really diminished. I used what was sold as 'insulated batting'
I made it look like a quilt, went with the decor.
On one, I even made it look like a window with our pets looking out.
In the spring we took it down and the curtains/valance hid the velcro stuck to the wall. We used them for about 5 years, new windows were part of the 'adding on' project.

Too bad the kids aren't little now, just found the Santa peeking in.

[ElleFiji]

Bubble wrap + loads of tape and Santa quilt are winning. This will probably be a battle won by whichever store I'm near first.

The frames are what I really want to do. But I won't.