Author Topic: 30 Day Bathroom Reno  (Read 10779 times)

Enough

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 96
30 Day Bathroom Reno
« on: January 03, 2017, 02:14:04 PM »
The goal: Full bath renovation in 30 days (while working full time, ~45-50 hrs/wk).

Scope:
75% tear-out to studs. 
Carpentry / Misc:
Door will open to the right vs left. 
Built-in shower shelf
20" medicine cabinet box
Plumbing:
Toilet and vanity will be moved to left wall to have a larger vanity.
Tub will be left drain vs right drain. 
New PVC vents/drains and pex supply vs cast iron and galvanized.
Tile:
Tiled shower surround
tile floor
Electrical:
3 new outlets
2 vanity lights
Center ceiling light with fan
Other:
Will update as it goes along


Schedule as follows:

I'll be happy if I get it done by January 31st.  But the goal is to keep to or ahead of this schedule.
Thursdays are no-work days due to other obligations.

Current Status:

Less tub and some tile (started on demo yesterday).

I will post back daily (if I can) as a motivator to work on it every day
« Last Edit: January 06, 2017, 08:47:05 AM by Enough »

nereo

  • Walrus Stache
  • *******
  • Posts: 6679
  • Location: la belle province
    • Here's how you can support science today:
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #1 on: January 03, 2017, 02:42:19 PM »
posting to follow.

If you're already re-tiling the floor, why not put in sub-floor heating?  Not particularly hard if you're going to retile anyway. IMO the best bathroom luxury ever... everything dries quickly and no more cold feet.  'Course I live in a cold climate...
"Do not confuse complexity with superiority"

Enough

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 96
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #2 on: January 04, 2017, 08:04:00 AM »
posting to follow.

If you're already re-tiling the floor, why not put in sub-floor heating?  Not particularly hard if you're going to retile anyway. IMO the best bathroom luxury ever... everything dries quickly and no more cold feet.  'Course I live in a cold climate...

I have definitely thought about sub-floor heat, but I need to read up on how to install it!  Thanks for the reminder.

MrsDinero

  • Pencil Stache
  • ****
  • Posts: 784
    • Mrs. Dinero's Journal
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #3 on: January 04, 2017, 08:07:27 AM »
Posting to follow.  We are planning to redo the 1st floor bedroom/bath and turn it into a master suite.  I want to DIY it all.

MrsDinero

  • Pencil Stache
  • ****
  • Posts: 784
    • Mrs. Dinero's Journal
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #4 on: January 04, 2017, 08:08:55 AM »
posting to follow.

If you're already re-tiling the floor, why not put in sub-floor heating?  Not particularly hard if you're going to retile anyway. IMO the best bathroom luxury ever... everything dries quickly and no more cold feet.  'Course I live in a cold climate...

I have definitely thought about sub-floor heat, but I need to read up on how to install it!  Thanks for the reminder.

We live in New England and have radiant heat flooring in our 4 season sunroom.  In the winter this is the most used room.

gmp029

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 25
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #5 on: January 04, 2017, 08:14:14 AM »
What is your plan for the window? I have the same layout in my old bathroom and currently use a shower curtain over the window. I'm considering a vented glass block window if / when I redo my bath so I can get rid of the curtain.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


Enough

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 96
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #6 on: January 04, 2017, 08:52:58 AM »
Day 2 Update:
Demo: 80% Complete.  All tile demo'd, tub removed, galv water supply and cast iron drains demo'd.  Additional demo to include: right wall demo down to studs up to vanity light, clean up around floor edges and corners, removal of laminate floor layers down to subfloor, removal of old electrical, and left wall demo for where there will be a new medicine cabinet (placement TBD)

Bathroom Plumbing Rough-in: 10% complete.  I ran the new pex through the floor and installed test plugs so I could turn the house water back on, just finished replumbing all water supply lines with pex.

Insulation: 100% complete.  This took ~30 min, so i couldn't resist getting it out of the way to mark it off the list.

Current status:




Plans / goals for day 3:  50+% on carpentry work.  Carpentry Scope:
patch floor holes where tub and toilet drained.
remove stud in non-load bearing wall and box in shower built in shelf
remove stud in non-load bearing wall for tub drain / shower plumbing and cut new hole in floor
complete left wall demo and box in new medicine cabinet.
cut hole in floor for new toilet drain

Question for the experts:
I would prefer to leave the old cast iron vent stack in the wall (barely visible above on the right wall photo) as cast iron demo is time consuming and it would require additional wall demo.  My plan would be to cap the old sink drain in the wall and cap the old vent pipe stack in the attic (under the roof line) and leave the basement side open (nothing should come out with both of the inlets capped). It is currently supported from the base with a plumbers strap as shown below.  Any thoughts on if this is acceptable and/or should I add additional strapping below or in the wall to prevent it from shifting down the road?




« Last Edit: January 05, 2017, 02:29:44 PM by Enough »

GilbertB

  • Stubble
  • **
  • Posts: 116
  • Age: 40
  • Location: Gent
    • Sci-fi Meandering
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #7 on: January 05, 2017, 04:50:20 AM »
For the cast iron demo:
A "trick" is to score it with a angle grinder, it should break like glass along the indent with a fair whack of a decent percussive persuader (wear eye protection, it could grenade).

Enough

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 96
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #8 on: January 05, 2017, 07:22:10 AM »
For the cast iron demo:
A "trick" is to score it with a angle grinder, it should break like glass along the indent with a fair whack of a decent percussive persuader (wear eye protection, it could grenade).

I did demo most of the drain piping with a 'bfh' (big f*ing hammer) but hadn't heard of scoring it with an angle grinder.  I'm guessing I can get a clean cut for the pvc / cast iron transition from scoring. What kind of wheel do you use on the grinder?

GilbertB

  • Stubble
  • **
  • Posts: 116
  • Age: 40
  • Location: Gent
    • Sci-fi Meandering
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #9 on: January 05, 2017, 09:01:08 AM »
For the cast iron demo:
A "trick" is to score it with a angle grinder, it should break like glass along the indent with a fair whack of a decent percussive persuader (wear eye protection, it could grenade).

I did demo most of the drain piping with a 'bfh' (big f*ing hammer) but hadn't heard of scoring it with an angle grinder.  I'm guessing I can get a clean cut for the pvc / cast iron transition from scoring. What kind of wheel do you use on the grinder?
General purpose 2mm cutting disk, I use the 150 grinder for this usually.

meghan88

  • Bristles
  • ***
  • Posts: 407
  • Location: Ontario
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #10 on: January 05, 2017, 11:37:40 AM »
Posting to follow.  Are you going to do a waterproof membrane on the walls around the tub?  It's highly recommended - grout is NOT waterproof, even when sealed.  There are cheaper options than Kerdi.  You can use a paint-on waterproofing method (RedGard) on the drywall.  And if you need tiling tips, the John Bridge forum is awesome.  http://www.johnbridge.com/

Spork

  • Walrus Stache
  • *******
  • Posts: 5759
    • Spork In The Eye
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #11 on: January 05, 2017, 11:41:16 AM »
Posting to follow.  Are you going to do a waterproof membrane on the walls around the tub?  It's highly recommended - grout is NOT waterproof, even when sealed.  There are cheaper options than Kerdi.  You can use a paint-on waterproofing method (RedGard) on the drywall.  And if you need tiling tips, the John Bridge forum is awesome.  http://www.johnbridge.com/

Along those lines.... I notice "hang drywall" in the todo list.  I'd recommend backer board.  Yes, green board is meant for wet areas.  IMO, that means "humid" not "in the shower."  It still turns to snot if it gets wet.
Some will sell their dreams for small desires
Or lose the race to rats
Get caught in ticking traps
And start to dream of somewhere
To relax their restless flight

boarder42

  • Walrus Stache
  • *******
  • Posts: 5868
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #12 on: January 05, 2017, 11:41:29 AM »
follow
Best super bonuses on Credit cards right now - ask me how to Mfg spend to meet the sign up bonus

1. Delta Gold 60k miles Ends 1/31/2018
2. Delta Platinum - 70k miles - Ends 1/31/2018

Delta Business Gold - Ends 1/31/2018

Top Cash Back

Enough

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 96
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #13 on: January 05, 2017, 02:18:19 PM »
Posting to follow.  Are you going to do a waterproof membrane on the walls around the tub?  It's highly recommended - grout is NOT waterproof, even when sealed.  There are cheaper options than Kerdi.  You can use a paint-on waterproofing method (RedGard) on the drywall.  And if you need tiling tips, the John Bridge forum is awesome.  http://www.johnbridge.com/
Along those lines.... I notice "hang drywall" in the todo list.  I'd recommend backer board.  Yes, green board is meant for wet areas.  IMO, that means "humid" not "in the shower."  It still turns to snot if it gets wet.



Green drywall will be installed everywhere but the shower.  For the shower the plan is to staple 3mil plastic sheet, then duroc, then a trowel on water proofing (store brand redgard), then tile & grout, then seal.
« Last Edit: January 05, 2017, 02:44:15 PM by Enough »

Enough

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 96
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #14 on: January 05, 2017, 02:27:21 PM »
What is your plan for the window? I have the same layout in my old bathroom and currently use a shower curtain over the window. I'm considering a vented glass block window if / when I redo my bath so I can get rid of the curtain.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

In a perfect world, I'd take out the window and arch and leave a small vent window or just glass block for light. However, its such a cost and time adder, that I decided early on to leave it out of the scope. So the window is just going to get resealed and trim repainted with high gloss paint.  I will either hang a waterproof curtain or get more opaque sashes for it.

Enough

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 96
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #15 on: January 05, 2017, 02:41:42 PM »
Plans / goals for day 3:  50+% on carpentry work.  Carpentry Scope:
patch floor holes where tub and toilet drained. - 100% done
remove stud in non-load bearing wall and box in shower built in shelf - 75%
remove stud in non-load bearing wall for tub drain / shower plumbing and cut new hole in floor - 25%
complete left wall demo and box in new medicine cabinet.- 100%
cut hole in floor for new toilet drain- 0%

Day 3 Update:
Ended up demo'ing a bit more of the left wall than I originally wanted to, but it was necessary to box in the slot for the medicine cabinet.  Made progress as noted above. 

Goals for day 4:
100% complete on above.
Complete shower rough ins
Finish right wall demo (except for old vanity light)
Start either drain rough ins or electrical.

No new pictures as not much changed.  Will take new ones on Friday!

Spork

  • Walrus Stache
  • *******
  • Posts: 5759
    • Spork In The Eye
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #16 on: January 05, 2017, 03:03:02 PM »
Posting to follow.  Are you going to do a waterproof membrane on the walls around the tub?  It's highly recommended - grout is NOT waterproof, even when sealed.  There are cheaper options than Kerdi.  You can use a paint-on waterproofing method (RedGard) on the drywall.  And if you need tiling tips, the John Bridge forum is awesome.  http://www.johnbridge.com/
Along those lines.... I notice "hang drywall" in the todo list.  I'd recommend backer board.  Yes, green board is meant for wet areas.  IMO, that means "humid" not "in the shower."  It still turns to snot if it gets wet.



Green drywall will be installed everywhere but the shower.  For the shower the plan is to staple 3mil plastic sheet, then duroc, then a trowel on water proofing (store brand redgard), then tile & grout, then seal.

This is exactly what I've done in the past.  I've read since then that you should use either the plastic sheeting or the Redgaurd but not both.  Supposedly it makes a sandwich where if water gets in, it is permanently trapped there.  I'm not an expert, so as someone upthread said: john bridge forum would be the place to sort that question out if it bothers you.
Some will sell their dreams for small desires
Or lose the race to rats
Get caught in ticking traps
And start to dream of somewhere
To relax their restless flight

mires

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 49
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #17 on: January 05, 2017, 03:50:05 PM »
What kind of shower valve will you be using?

$200k

  • Stubble
  • **
  • Posts: 101
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #18 on: January 05, 2017, 06:35:21 PM »
What an awesome thread. 

May I ask the budget for a project like this?  I was curious about the leaving the arc in, but I see that you wanted to keep it in for budget reasons.     

zolotiyeruki

  • Handlebar Stache
  • *****
  • Posts: 2288
  • Location: State: Denial
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #19 on: January 06, 2017, 08:58:06 AM »
Green drywall will be installed everywhere but the shower.  For the shower the plan is to staple 3mil plastic sheet, then duroc, then a trowel on water proofing (store brand redgard), then tile & grout, then seal.

This is exactly what I've done in the past.  I've read since then that you should use either the plastic sheeting or the Redgaurd but not both.  Supposedly it makes a sandwich where if water gets in, it is permanently trapped there.
That's right--you prevent the water from getting through, but if it *does* get through, you want it to have an easy path to continue on its way, so that it doesn't get trapped and cause problems.

CowboyAndIndian

  • Handlebar Stache
  • *****
  • Posts: 1061
  • Location: NJ, USA
    • KOWines: Deep discount wine/spirits store.
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #20 on: January 06, 2017, 10:00:30 AM »
Are you following MMM's poured showerpan instructions? (http://www.mrmoneymustache.com/2012/12/21/how-to-make-a-relatively-sweet-shower-cheap/)

Can you let me know what shower drain flange you will use?

Really cool project. Following!

geekette

  • Handlebar Stache
  • *****
  • Posts: 1628
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #21 on: January 06, 2017, 10:56:24 AM »
Are you following MMM's poured showerpan instructions? (http://www.mrmoneymustache.com/2012/12/21/how-to-make-a-relatively-sweet-shower-cheap/)

Can you let me know what shower drain flange you will use?

Really cool project. Following!

It looks like he's sticking with a tub.

Mostly PTF.  We renovated our master bath 10 years ago with in floor heat - still love it!  We used a composite shower pan and Kerdi for the shower walls.  It probably was more expensive than a diy shower pan and the paint on stuff, but it worked well for us.

CowboyAndIndian

  • Handlebar Stache
  • *****
  • Posts: 1061
  • Location: NJ, USA
    • KOWines: Deep discount wine/spirits store.
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #22 on: January 06, 2017, 10:59:54 AM »
It looks like he's sticking with a tub.

Mostly PTF.  We renovated our master bath 10 years ago with in floor heat - still love it!  We used a composite shower pan and Kerdi for the shower walls.  It probably was more expensive than a diy shower pan and the paint on stuff, but it worked well for us.


Naah, he demolished the tub and talks about shower.

What did you do with the floor heat geekette? Was it a electric one or was it the pipes with water flowing thru it?

geekette

  • Handlebar Stache
  • *****
  • Posts: 1628
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #23 on: January 06, 2017, 12:21:26 PM »
I saw in the original post "tub will be left drain vs right drain", and assumed a new tub.

We went with the electric version of floor heat.

Bracken_Joy

  • Walrus Stache
  • *******
  • Posts: 7346
  • Location: Oregon
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #24 on: January 06, 2017, 12:46:14 PM »
Posting to follow! Sometime this year (or possible next year) our master bathroom is on the chopping block.
My journal: Hiding in the Ferns
Like babies? Have kids? Want to chat about Babies and Pregnancy/Infertility? Group Journal Here.

Enough

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 96
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #25 on: January 07, 2017, 04:06:42 PM »
Plans / goals for day 3:  50+% on carpentry work.  Carpentry Scope:
patch floor holes where tub and toilet drained. - 100% done
remove stud in non-load bearing wall and box in shower built in shelf - 100%
remove stud in non-load bearing wall for tub drain / shower plumbing and cut new hole in floor - 100%
complete left wall demo and box in new medicine cabinet.- 100%
cut hole in floor for new toilet drain- 25%

Day 4/5 Update:
Finished most of the carpentry work, but toilet drain is right over a floor joist and I did not have the 2x6 lumber to box it out.
100% complete on supply plumbing (roughed in shower supply and shower valve today)
Started on electrical.  Boxes are now installed, but no wires.
Finished up the demo.  Floor is down to subfloor and right wall is down to studs around the old medicine cabinet box with the old vanity now gone.

Ended the day with a trip to menards for PVC fittings and switches.  Looking forward to drain plumbing and electrical all day tomorrow!

Forgot to take pictures (again) will make sure to do so tomorrow with the fish-eye lens.


zolotiyeruki

  • Handlebar Stache
  • *****
  • Posts: 2288
  • Location: State: Denial
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #26 on: January 07, 2017, 06:43:44 PM »
Plans / goals for day 3:  50+% on carpentry work.  Carpentry Scope:
patch floor holes where tub and toilet drained. - 100% done
remove stud in non-load bearing wall and box in shower built in shelf - 100%
remove stud in non-load bearing wall for tub drain / shower plumbing and cut new hole in floor - 100%
complete left wall demo and box in new medicine cabinet.- 100%
cut hole in floor for new toilet drain- 25%

Day 4/5 Update:
Finished most of the carpentry work, but toilet drain is right over a floor joist and I did not have the 2x6 lumber to box it out.
100% complete on supply plumbing (roughed in shower supply and shower valve today)
Started on electrical.  Boxes are now installed, but no wires.
Finished up the demo.  Floor is down to subfloor and right wall is down to studs around the old medicine cabinet box with the old vanity now gone.

Ended the day with a trip to menards for PVC fittings and switches.  Looking forward to drain plumbing and electrical all day tomorrow!

Forgot to take pictures (again) will make sure to do so tomorrow with the fish-eye lens.
I hope you used your "15% off" brown paper bag :)

Enough

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 96
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #27 on: January 08, 2017, 08:08:23 PM »
I hope you used your "15% off" brown paper bag :)

I did, you can fit a lot of plumbing fittings and electrical components in that bag!

Day 6 Update:
Plumbing is (nearly-95%) done! Tub is in and all the drains connected.  But I did not want to get on the roof with the ice, so the vent just terminates in the attic at the moment.
Electrical is started, but did not get very far today.

Pictures:
Status / Schedule Update:


Right wall:


Left wall:

mires

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 49
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #28 on: January 08, 2017, 10:29:53 PM »
I hope you used your "15% off" brown paper bag :)


Left wall:


It's hard to tell from the pic but it looks like you plumbed the tub spout with PEX. If so, I recommend you change that to Copper or brass. The smaller diameter of PEX creates backpressure which causes water to come out of the shower head when you run the spout. Not always, but more often than not. Easy to change now. Not so much after you cover it with tile.

Dicey

  • Walrus Stache
  • *******
  • Posts: 6270
  • Age: 59
  • Location: NorCal
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #29 on: January 08, 2017, 11:18:27 PM »
The problem with radiant heat floors is that they add to your electric bill. Bathroom rugs are a much cheaper way to go, FWIW. Since you're on a tight deadline, I think I'd skip it. We have it (came with the house) and never use it. In fact, when our furnace was out for a few weeks, we decided to turn it on. Apparently the control unit needs some sort of battery. Yeah, we couldn't be bothered to replace it, despite the fact that it got down to 55 degrees (13 Celsius for my international friends) in the house.
I did it! I have a journal!
A Lot Like This
And hell yes, I am still moving confidently in the direction of my dreams...

paddedhat

  • Handlebar Stache
  • *****
  • Posts: 2152
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #30 on: January 09, 2017, 03:09:16 AM »


It's hard to tell from the pic but it looks like you plumbed the tub spout with PEX. If so, I recommend you change that to Copper or brass. The smaller diameter of PEX creates backpressure which causes water to come out of the shower head when you run the spout. Not always, but more often than not. Easy to change now. Not so much after you cover it with tile.

Wow! I have plumbed dozens of new homes with PEX and love the stuff. I have experienced the "why is the damn shower head drooling/spitting while I'm running the tub spout?" problem but never knew why?  Thanks.

paddedhat

  • Handlebar Stache
  • *****
  • Posts: 2152
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #31 on: January 09, 2017, 03:12:47 AM »
It appears that you are keeping the window intact? Please make sure that it is glazed with tempered glass. It is a code requirement, and for a good reason. A fall in the shower, with any body parts flailing about (arms, etc) can result in broken glass, and a bloody mess, at best.

Papa bear

  • Pencil Stache
  • ****
  • Posts: 524
  • Location: Ohio
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #32 on: January 09, 2017, 05:42:24 AM »
Green drywall will be installed everywhere but the shower.  For the shower the plan is to staple 3mil plastic sheet, then duroc, then a trowel on water proofing (store brand redgard), then tile & grout, then seal.

This is exactly what I've done in the past.  I've read since then that you should use either the plastic sheeting or the Redgaurd but not both.  Supposedly it makes a sandwich where if water gets in, it is permanently trapped there.
That's right--you prevent the water from getting through, but if it *does* get through, you want it to have an easy path to continue on its way, so that it doesn't get trapped and cause problems.
+1. Red guard is a vapor barrier as is the 3mil  plastic. It's not only about water getting in, but condensation as well.  It needs to breathe.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

nereo

  • Walrus Stache
  • *******
  • Posts: 6679
  • Location: la belle province
    • Here's how you can support science today:
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #33 on: January 09, 2017, 08:08:02 AM »


It's hard to tell from the pic but it looks like you plumbed the tub spout with PEX. If so, I recommend you change that to Copper or brass. The smaller diameter of PEX creates backpressure which causes water to come out of the shower head when you run the spout. Not always, but more often than not. Easy to change now. Not so much after you cover it with tile.

Wow! I have plumbed dozens of new homes with PEX and love the stuff. I have experienced the "why is the damn shower head drooling/spitting while I'm running the tub spout?" problem but never knew why?  Thanks.

Yeah - our bathroom has exactly this problem and I never could understand why.  Not worth it to correct now (and we weren't the ones to install the PEX) but good to know for next time. Thanks!
"Do not confuse complexity with superiority"

Enough

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 96
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #34 on: January 09, 2017, 10:52:58 AM »
Green drywall will be installed everywhere but the shower.  For the shower the plan is to staple 3mil plastic sheet, then duroc, then a trowel on water proofing (store brand redgard), then tile & grout, then seal.

This is exactly what I've done in the past.  I've read since then that you should use either the plastic sheeting or the Redgaurd but not both.  Supposedly it makes a sandwich where if water gets in, it is permanently trapped there.
That's right--you prevent the water from getting through, but if it *does* get through, you want it to have an easy path to continue on its way, so that it doesn't get trapped and cause problems.
+1. Red guard is a vapor barrier as is the 3mil  plastic. It's not only about water getting in, but condensation as well.  It needs to breathe.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I understand what you are saying about moisture being trapped.  However, the only material between the 3mil plastic and redgaurd is Durock which is designed to be wet. It wont rot, mold, warp, or lose structural strength.  So I don't see the problems caused by any moisture that might be trapped?  If you're getting moisture past the red gaurd, that is why I want the 3mil plastic on the other side of the durock - to prevent the water from rotting the stud wall.

Enough

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 96
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #35 on: January 09, 2017, 10:57:06 AM »
It's hard to tell from the pic but it looks like you plumbed the tub spout with PEX. If so, I recommend you change that to Copper or brass. The smaller diameter of PEX creates backpressure which causes water to come out of the shower head when you run the spout. Not always, but more often than not. Easy to change now. Not so much after you cover it with tile.

Thanks for the heads up! I did not know this.  I will swap the 1/2" pex for 3/4".

nereo

  • Walrus Stache
  • *******
  • Posts: 6679
  • Location: la belle province
    • Here's how you can support science today:
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #36 on: January 09, 2017, 11:03:05 AM »
The problem with radiant heat floors is that they add to your electric bill. Bathroom rugs are a much cheaper way to go, FWIW. Since you're on a tight deadline, I think I'd skip it. We have it (came with the house) and never use it. In fact, when our furnace was out for a few weeks, we decided to turn it on. Apparently the control unit needs some sort of battery. Yeah, we couldn't be bothered to replace it, despite the fact that it got down to 55 degrees (13 Celsius for my international friends) in the house.

Funny, we experienced the exact opposite; because the floors were warm we were more comfortable with the thermostat set lower.  Ultimately our heating is all electric, and either we were heating the air or the floors we were walking on (which eventually heated the air anyhow). Might be different if you are heating with gas or bunker-fuel.

"Do not confuse complexity with superiority"

zolotiyeruki

  • Handlebar Stache
  • *****
  • Posts: 2288
  • Location: State: Denial
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #37 on: January 09, 2017, 01:22:52 PM »
I understand what you are saying about moisture being trapped.  However, the only material between the 3mil plastic and redgaurd is Durock which is designed to be wet. It wont rot, mold, warp, or lose structural strength.  So I don't see the problems caused by any moisture that might be trapped?  If you're getting moisture past the red gaurd, that is why I want the 3mil plastic on the other side of the durock - to prevent the water from rotting the stud wall.
That's ok for a little while, but if water gets into the durock once, it'll continue to get into the durock in the future.  If there's a water barrier on the back side of the durock, that water will build up more and more until something bad happens.  By omitting the 3 mil plastic, you prevent the water from building up.

mires

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 49
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #38 on: January 09, 2017, 07:17:54 PM »
It's hard to tell from the pic but it looks like you plumbed the tub spout with PEX. If so, I recommend you change that to Copper or brass. The smaller diameter of PEX creates backpressure which causes water to come out of the shower head when you run the spout. Not always, but more often than not. Easy to change now. Not so much after you cover it with tile.

Thanks for the heads up! I did not know this.  I will swap the 1/2" pex for 3/4".

No problem. That should work just fine.

Enough

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 96
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #39 on: January 10, 2017, 03:15:13 PM »
Day 7 Update:

Electrical: 70ish% Complete.

All wire is run and switches / outlets are connected.  However, there is (of course) a ceiling joist running down the direct center of the bathroom.  Normally I would install the bath vent / ceiling light combo just off-center and not worry about it, but with the pointed arch above the tub, it would really stand out and look too odd to be off-center.  So temporary ceiling supports and heading off that joist are what is on the schedule for day 8 (tonight)!

Electrical picture update:


Overall, I'd say that the project is going well, and is a little ahead of schedule, but we will be falling behind soon.  I have not decided on what tile to go with yet and any special order tile will be 1-2 weeks out.  Additional there's likely to be a bunch of scope creep: (1) I have been looking at deflection calculators (thankyou for the johnbridge link) and I should probably add floor joists in the basement if I go with the tile floor for crack prevention; (2) I am also reconsidering the window - thinking about replacing with a 32x14" shallow upper window vent; (3) installation of in-floor radiant heat.  Those three items are likely to add 1-2 days each.

BudgetSlasher

  • Bristles
  • ***
  • Posts: 343
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #40 on: January 10, 2017, 06:20:04 PM »
The problem with radiant heat floors is that they add to your electric bill. Bathroom rugs are a much cheaper way to go, FWIW. Since you're on a tight deadline, I think I'd skip it. We have it (came with the house) and never use it. In fact, when our furnace was out for a few weeks, we decided to turn it on. Apparently the control unit needs some sort of battery. Yeah, we couldn't be bothered to replace it, despite the fact that it got down to 55 degrees (13 Celsius for my international friends) in the house.

In our house it would be a net energy saver. . . the bathrooms have built in electric space heaters which certain household members love when its time to shower and based upon the last place we lived without them . . . well the central heat got turned up when it was time to shower. So low wattage heated floor vs central oil boiler for the whole house, or high wattage mounted space heaters, yeah it would save money.

Now, if a member of your house does not currently have/do either of those, then yes it would add to your bills.

lthenderson

  • Pencil Stache
  • ****
  • Posts: 912
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #41 on: January 11, 2017, 08:56:30 AM »
When I redid our bathroom, I put in floor electric heat and we absolutely love it. We keep the temperature in our bedroom cooler than we did because it is pleasant to walk onto a warm tile floor even if the air temps are cold. To compromise, I hooked the electric heat in the floor up to a smart thermostat so it only heats during the parts of the day that we use the master bath, mainly for an hour in the morning and several hours in the evenings. I'll never go back to having cold tile floors in a bathroom.

meghan88

  • Bristles
  • ***
  • Posts: 407
  • Location: Ontario
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #42 on: January 11, 2017, 02:01:08 PM »
Your progress is awesome.  Re. scope creep and delays:  take the time to do it right and also to get exactly what you want.  Better a few days late than regretting your choices later on, if you're planning on enjoying the results for years.

Enough

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 96
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #43 on: January 18, 2017, 01:44:48 PM »
So, we are waaay overdue for an update.

Day 8:
Electrical is 100% done.  See below pictures for temp supports for cutting ceiling joist and finished light/ventfan combo.

Day 9: Meant to get all the drywall hung, but I was pretty slow yesterday and only finished nailing the 'shim boards' - not sure what to call these, but they are rip-sawn 2x4s that will bump out the stud wall to where 1/2" drywall will be flush with the old concrete / plaster wall.  The wall at each stud was a different depth and so the 2x4 had to be ripped at a different width for each one - overall, very time consuming.  If anyone knows a better method for this, let me know for future.  ( no picture, will update later).


Pictures:

Updated Schedule:

I could say that I was busy at work, got chores around the house done, shopped around and decided on tile, and cooked an awesome split-pea soup (which are all true), but I also just had a lack of motivation last week and slacked off.

Day 8:

Temporary supports


Finished 'boob-light' / vent fan combo - and centered like I wanted!

Bonus Pic:

Old Horizontal sink drain line... I wonder how well draino would do against whatever crap that is?

lthenderson

  • Pencil Stache
  • ****
  • Posts: 912
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #44 on: January 18, 2017, 03:07:23 PM »
I was pretty slow yesterday and only finished nailing the 'shim boards' - not sure what to call these, but they are rip-sawn 2x4s that will bump out the stud wall to where 1/2" drywall will be flush with the old concrete / plaster wall.  The wall at each stud was a different depth and so the 2x4 had to be ripped at a different width for each one - overall, very time consuming.  If anyone knows a better method for this, let me know for future.

Where possible, I attach a laser or string as a reference to final depth (where you want the 2x4 to end and drywall to start) and then add the 2x4 to the side of the existing stud bumping it out as far as necessary. No ripping or measuring involved that way. You end up with a double thick stud that way but you save a lot in time and effort.

nereo

  • Walrus Stache
  • *******
  • Posts: 6679
  • Location: la belle province
    • Here's how you can support science today:
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #45 on: January 19, 2017, 06:41:28 AM »
I'm glad someone else calls those "boob lights"  :-)
Can't believe all the crap that was in your drain pipe!
"Do not confuse complexity with superiority"

geekette

  • Handlebar Stache
  • *****
  • Posts: 1628
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #46 on: January 19, 2017, 10:12:37 AM »
Who doesn't call them boob lights?

Mel70

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 63
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #47 on: January 19, 2017, 12:36:48 PM »
This is cool. Looking forward to seeing your progress.

AMandM

  • Bristles
  • ***
  • Posts: 340
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #48 on: January 19, 2017, 05:48:53 PM »
I am really impressed with your speed, even counting your slacking off.  I did a much smaller job a while back (new walls around the tub, new wall tile, reglaze the tub) and it took me over a year!

Also, your drain picture made me gag.

Enough

  • 5 O'Clock Shadow
  • *
  • Posts: 96
Re: 30 Day Bathroom Reno
« Reply #49 on: January 20, 2017, 07:26:19 PM »
I was pretty slow yesterday and only finished nailing the 'shim boards' - not sure what to call these, but they are rip-sawn 2x4s that will bump out the stud wall to where 1/2" drywall will be flush with the old concrete / plaster wall.  The wall at each stud was a different depth and so the 2x4 had to be ripped at a different width for each one - overall, very time consuming.  If anyone knows a better method for this, let me know for future.

Where possible, I attach a laser or string as a reference to final depth (where you want the 2x4 to end and drywall to start) and then add the 2x4 to the side of the existing stud bumping it out as far as necessary. No ripping or measuring involved that way. You end up with a double thick stud that way but you save a lot in time and effort.
Oh yea! I've seen this done before, I just didn't connect what they were doing.  Probably would have saved me an hour or two!

Who doesn't call them boob lights?
agreed, haha

Also, your drain picture made me gag.
Sorry about that - at least you didn't see it in person - or should say - smell it in person?