Author Topic: Moving to Oahu..any advice?? Or tips?? -update-  (Read 8324 times)

Mazzinator

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Moving to Oahu..any advice?? Or tips?? -update-
« on: May 22, 2013, 02:47:05 PM »
Hey all..we are moving to Oahu next month and my dh will be stationed at Schofield barracks. We are looking to live in Mililani because it is close to his work and it seems affordable.. Also, we will be selling my car and I bet he won't ride his bike to work, so I won't have a car with 2 kids at home. We..well, I am trying to be as mustachian as can be..

The townhouses seems pretty small but we are looking at 2 bedroom units..kids can share a room. People told us our cal king bed won't fit in most places..is this true?? Is milk really $10 a gal?? Is mililani a good place to live without a car??

Thanks for any tips or advice!!!
« Last Edit: August 08, 2013, 07:14:56 PM by Mazzinator »

Splashncash

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Re: Moving to Oahu..any advice?? Or tips??
« Reply #1 on: May 22, 2013, 03:32:04 PM »
Aloha, Mazzinator!
I think you will like it here.  We PCS'd last August and really enjoy it.  Get DH to ride his bike to Schofield!  There is no reason not to - it is so close.

Others who live in Mililani will be able to give advice on how large townhouses are in Mililani, I don't live in that area.

Milk is not $10/gallon, only $5.  Most everything is more expensive here but we moved from a high COL area so the difference was not as great to us.

KulshanGirl

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Re: Moving to Oahu..any advice?? Or tips??
« Reply #2 on: May 22, 2013, 04:00:18 PM »
I lived in Mililani for a summer long ago.  It was in an apartment complex down the highway a ways from the shopping hub there, and I worked at Mililani Pay-n-Save, which I imagine is a Rite Aid now.  I liked the area!  I took the bus to and from work every day, and also took the bus all over the island to beaches and everywhere else I ever went, I didn't have a car.  Most of the people who lived around there were military families.  It's been decades so I'm sure I'm no help at all, but I have fond memories of living there.  :) 

Am heading to google maps satellite view right now to see what my old neighborhood looks like.  Hehe.  Memories!

Edited to add ... OMG that area has grown.  It was Waipio Gentry where I lived, only it was just empty fields with one or two apartment/townhouse complexes at the time.  Everything on the otherside of King Kam Highway was fields.  They've got houses packed in tight now.  :/ 
« Last Edit: May 22, 2013, 04:19:31 PM by KulshanGirl »

honobob

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Re: Moving to Oahu..any advice?? Or tips??
« Reply #3 on: May 22, 2013, 04:16:33 PM »
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mililani,_Hawaii
Pualei Circle $2600 furnished
http://honolulu.craigslist.org/oah/apa/3768586639.html 

Gregg Apartments  $2100
http://honolulu.craigslist.org/oah/apa/3795334341.htm

Never lived in Mililani but commuted from Diamond Head to Wahiawa back in the day.  Live on the Gold Coast/Waikiki now.

I would never want to be stuck in a planned community without a car.  I hope you are NOT renting anything sight unseen as there a scams.

Why would you want to live in Hawaii and be about the farthest distance from the beach and Waikiki that you can be?  I would suggest starting around Kaimuki/Diamond Head area.  You would be within walking distance of the beach and Waikiki.  Plenty to keep you and the kids entertained and your husband.  You really don't need that much space because you do your living outside.  Husband will have a longer commute but you'll be spending more gas on the weekends sightseeing.  Second, I'd look at North Shore or even Kaneohe and Kailua.  A lot depends on your budget. 

Now if you don't like the beach, nevermind!

Johnny Aloha

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Re: Moving to Oahu..any advice?? Or tips??
« Reply #4 on: May 22, 2013, 06:51:14 PM »
We live on the windward side, in Kailua.  For us, there is no better place on earth.  I am not too familiar with Mililani but Nords (from this forum) lives there and will probably jump in the discussion at some point.

General advice:

- do you have a pet?  If so, start the paperwork yesterday!!  Hawaii is a rabies free state and the quarantine rules are very strict.  We've shipped a pet (twice) and if you start the paperwork early enough, you can pick your pet up at the airport and drive home that day.  Otherwise, they sit in the state run quarantine.

- The cost of living is not as expensive as you might think (especially with military pay).  Housing, electricity, and gas are higher than most of the US.  But if you are an outdoorsy person (family), this place is heaven.  Watersports, hiking, tons of free cultural stuff, etc.  There are so many free and fun activities it's re-donculous.  And if you live on the windward side, you don't need A/C or to use a dryer, which offsets the higher housing costs compared to other areas like Kapolei, Ewa Beach, etc. 

- Not sure about Mililani, but in Kailua and many other areas, people are so active & fit that they are up early (5-5:30 on weekends!) in order to pack in as much activity as possible.  This causes us to go to bed early because we're so tired.  We love this lifestyle - reduces the desire to stay out late drinking (saving more money). 

- Start looking for houses early and often if you live off base.  Be very aggressive.  If you see a house you like, you need to be ready to sign papers and pay the deposit & first month rent immediately.  If a house is decent and in a decent area, rents aren't really negotiable because there will be 10 other people competing with you.  Most places don't allow pets, and you'll pay a premium for having one.  Housing is in very short supply.  You'll probably get frustrated ... try not to.  Not sure how long the wait is for base housing at Schofield, but from the Navy side it's pretty long (~6 months).  Some people I work with are desperately looking for housing and becoming very frustrated while waiting for base housing.

- If you ship a car and want a second car, lots of 'island beaters'.  Very easy to find good cars on CL for $3-5k.

- Get out and enjoy the island!  Some people hate it, and over the years I've realized they are the people who aren't active.  If you have the mindset of "man, I wish I was back on the mainland so I could go to the Nascar race / monster truck rally / whatever" you probably won't like it here. 

Johnny Aloha

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Re: Moving to Oahu..any advice?? Or tips??
« Reply #5 on: May 22, 2013, 07:43:36 PM »
Forgot to say: make time to visit as many islands as possible.  They are all different than Oahu.  Big Island has volcanoes and amazing, pristine coastline.  Kauai is the "garden isle" - very lush and green.  And if you can make it to smaller islands like Molokai and Lanai, even better!

Mazzinator

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Re: Moving to Oahu..any advice?? Or tips??
« Reply #6 on: May 22, 2013, 08:22:56 PM »
Thank you so much for all the tips!!

We were looking at mililani because it's close to his work.. I would LOVE to live at the beach, i'm a pisces, and the north shore seems like a reasonble drive...but trying to grow our stache and balance freakin Hawaii is a tough gig.. I don't love cookie cutter complexes..but they are usually cheaper and easier when house seaching via internet. We do not want to live on post.

And don't worry, we won't sign anything sight unseen. I think we get TDY (hotel/food paid for) for 60 days, which means we can live in a hotel for free.. But a 2.5 & 1yr old in a hotel for two months seems like ahhhh!!!

Pets are going to grandmas house.. Thank goodness!!

The biggest concern is money and housing..Duh.. Our budget is umm as cheap as we can get it..without missing out on island life. I want to visit all the islands, and even though we would go on a budget, it still costs something..

Thanks for your help..i'm just starting to get nervous about keeping in budget while enjoying our short time in paradise. We do get a good amount of military pay, which could easily go to beach side home and beer..or debt..sigh..

Thanks again!!
« Last Edit: May 23, 2013, 05:54:53 AM by Mazzinator »

Splashncash

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Re: Moving to Oahu..any advice?? Or tips??
« Reply #7 on: May 22, 2013, 10:01:55 PM »
Great advice, Johnny Aloha.

When we got here we stayed on MCBH (KBay Marine Base) in a two bedroom place while looking for housing.  Perhaps you can book a place like that for your househunting days. Look up The Villas at Kaneohe Bay - google MCBH.  I have talked to too many people who stayed in a hotel room (the Hale Koa) for a month or two while trying to find a place.  Not only is it cramped but the commute from there to look at potential homes would be long.

I would not recommend living in Diamond Head/Waikiki if husband works at Schofield.  The commute would be torturous.  And not sure your BAH would cover it.

The outdoor lifestyle is great and yes, we go to bed early too because we are always on the go. 

Let us know if you have any other questions.

Johnny Aloha

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Re: Moving to Oahu..any advice?? Or tips??
« Reply #8 on: May 23, 2013, 01:25:42 PM »
Make sure you double check the TDY rules.  I thought it was only for 5 days, not 60.


honobob

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Re: Moving to Oahu..any advice?? Or tips??
« Reply #9 on: May 23, 2013, 05:48:21 PM »
http://honolulu.craigslist.org/oah/apa/3810391406.html 

North Shore place looks nice.  Just checked MapQuest and they show Diamond Head 26 miles and 37 minutes away.  I used to make it in 25-30 minutes to downtown Wahiawa.  I know a lot of military in Diamond Head/Waikiki that commute to Kaneohe and Schofield.  Maybe depends on your schedule.  More than likely you'll spend your hotel time in Waikiki so it will give you a chance to check the commute.

Nords

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Re: Moving to Oahu..any advice?? Or tips??
« Reply #10 on: May 25, 2013, 11:44:30 PM »
Thank you so much for all the tips!!

We were looking at mililani because it's close to his work.. I would LOVE to live at the beach, i'm a pisces, and the north shore seems like a reasonble drive...but trying to grow our stache and balance freakin Hawaii is a tough gig.. I don't love cookie cutter complexes..but they are usually cheaper and easier when house seaching via internet. We do not want to live on post.

And don't worry, we won't sign anything sight unseen. I think we get TDY (hotel/food paid for) for 60 days, which means we can live in a hotel for free.. But a 2.5 & 1yr old in a hotel for two months seems like ahhhh!!!

Pets are going to grandmas house.. Thank goodness!!

The biggest concern is money and housing..Duh.. Our budget is umm as cheap as we can get it..without missing out on island life. I want to visit all the islands, and even though we would go on a budget, it still costs something..

Thanks for your help..i'm just starting to get nervous about keeping in budget while enjoying our short time in paradise. We do get a good amount of military pay, which could easily go to beach side home and beer..or debt..sigh..

Thanks again!!
Mazzinator, I live about six miles south of Schofield, and that gulch between Kuahelani down to Waikalani Drive and back up to the top of Wheeler AAF (both directions) is a real killer.  It's safe to bicycle during daylight hours but I swear that the Waikalani stoplight is set to turn red as soon as your bicycle reaches max downhill speed (both directions).  If you go further south than Mililani then the bicycle commute involves Roosevelt Bridge on Kam Hwy, which I do not recommend under any conditions.  It's also a steeper/deeper gulch than the one by Wheeler. 

If you look at homes in Kunia then do not bicycle Kunia Road after dark.  I'd hesitate to bicycle it even during daylight.  It's not the road conditions as much as the inattentive drivers.  A couple motorcyclists are killed on that road every year.

If you're confident that you don't want to live on base then I won't try to change your mind.  However practically every neighborhood on Wheeler & Schofield has been demolished & rebuilt over the last decade, so it's much better than it used to be.  It's also in better shape than many of the townhouses in Mililani and in almost all of the townhouses in Wahiawa or Whitmore.  However I understand the other reasons to not live on base.

You might be thinking of TLA, not TDY, and you are able to stretch it out for 60 days provided that you're searching for housing or have a signed lease date (or until you're offered housing on post).  While you may enjoy the Hale Koa with your kids, your spouse is going to get godawful tired of the drive between Waikiki and Schofield (both directions).  You might want to consider the Inn at Schofield (http://www.innatschofield.com/) or the Navy Lodge on Ford Island.

If you're seeking a townhouse then I recommend getting on AHRN.com now (before you come here!) and searching Mililani, Wahiawa, & Whitmore areas... in that order.  (Mililani Mauka is a bicycle stretch but not too bad a commute.)  Rental properties are starting to get expensive again (after a five-year slump).  If you find something you like then send me an address and I'll do a driveby.  I'm not familiar with all the townhouses but most of the Mililani ones are good.  Nob Hill and Anania Circle are particularly good and within walking distance of groceries/shopping.  I'd stay out of Waikalani Drive and Launani Valley unless you personally know someone who can vouch for a townhouse or home in those areas.  If you get down into the Waipio Gentry or Waikele areas then your spouse is going to want to take the bus with a bicycle rack.

You're moving here during the peak of transfer season.  The rental inventory is very tight.  Heed Johnny Aloha's advice on taking a place as soon as you see something you like.  If you do the typical Mainland "Well, we're going to look at a couple other places and call you back"... then the next time you call it'll be rented to someone else.

You should mentally kiss your king bed goodbye and be ready to unload it on Craigslist when it gets here.  Maybe you'll find a place for it in your townhouse, but the odds aren't very good.  (If you haven't already shipped your household goods, then I recommend that you write down all the dimensions of your major furniture pieces and bring a small tape measure with you when you look at rentals.)  You can find plenty of Craigslist bargains on queen bedframes and even closeout sales on queen mattresses.

Good thing you don't need a car, but you should also be able to live without a garage as well.  Most of the townhouses are open parking, although some of the pricey ones have garages.  Used vehicles are plentiful and cheap here, so if you're planning to sell yours then you may get more for it on the Mainland.

If you live in Mililani then you're 30 minutes from White Plains Beach (my favorite) and 35 minutes from Haleiwa Alii Beach Park (kid friendly).  The best reason to live in Mililani is that it's away from the storm surge, the tsunami inundation zones, and the cane fires.  (We've done just fine with hurricanes and earthquakes, too, but they're relatively rare.)  However if your spouse commutes by car then Makakilo and Ewa Beach may be in your price range.  The commute sucks but you're closer to the beach.

Here's a Google Earth 3D tool to get you started on flying around the roads:
http://the-military-guide.com/2012/10/29/3d-hawaii-right-here-on-the-blog/

Here's some advice and some cautions about Hawaii:
http://the-military-guide.com/2011/10/13/lifestyles-in-military-retirement-living-in-hawaii/
http://the-military-guide.com/2012/08/27/good-reasons-not-to-live-in-hawaii/

I strongly recommend that you read the books & blogs linked in those posts.  You should also buy a paid subscription now to the Star-Advertiser website and read it frequently before you get here to gain an understanding of the culture and the geography and the neighborhoods. 

Like Anner says, milk is $5/gallon here.  (If you want to pay $10/gallon then you have to go to Lanai or Molokai.)  Oahu struggles to keep a dairy open and I believe that these days most of our cow's milk is flown in from the Mainland.  (I don't know the latest because I no longer drink milk.)  Maybe your kids drink it faster than we used to, but we could barely keep a gallon in the fridge for a week before it turned bad.  Soy milk or almond milk is not much of a better price but it doesn't go bad. 

However you should be more worried about the cost of brand-name cereals!  Costco has good prices on oatmeal & Cheerios.

Send me a PM or an e-mail if I can help with other questions.

Edited to add ... OMG that area has grown.  It was Waipio Gentry where I lived, only it was just empty fields with one or two apartment/townhouse complexes at the time.  Everything on the otherside of King Kam Highway was fields.  They've got houses packed in tight now.  :/ 
We still own a rental property in that area.  Waipio Gentry has filled in and the neighborhood you're seeing on the "other side" of Kam Hwy is Waikele.  It's been there for over 15 years now, but it also has good townhouses (with a killer bicycle commute to Schofield).  The cane fields have been turned into Central Oahu Regional Park, which has become a great lifestyle magnet for the area.  Plenty of sports fields, an Olympic swimming pool, tennis courts, walking paths, even an archery range.  It really made a difference in our rental prices!
« Last Edit: May 25, 2013, 11:49:45 PM by Nords »

Mazzinator

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Re: Moving to Oahu..any advice?? Or tips??
« Reply #11 on: August 08, 2013, 07:14:22 PM »
-update- if anyone cares :)

We ended moving into Ko olina. We looked all over this island for an apt and felt we got the best of both worlds for both of us. Me, i get to walk to the beach, my dh gets a decent commute to work. We did look in Kailua, but felt it was WAY to far and the north beach isn't toddler friendly at all. Mililani felt a bit "less like hawaii" than Ko olina. Plus, we have a fancy pool and there's a mini mart. It actually saves me if i need one item. I don't end up buying extras at the grocery store just because i'm there.

We shop at the commisary, and surprisingly, i think it's cheaper than back in va!! We buy lactose free milk because uumm my intestines, and it lasts forever.

Although we are surrounded by mega fancypants people, we have no trouble controlling ourselves..and we are still about 100000 times better than were we came from in va (2400 sq ft and over BAH) ugh! We are still new here, but we're at about 50% savings of gross (mostly debt repayment) And no, we won't be buying a golf cart..i can walk 10 mins to the beach!!

We are also working at downsizing. Although, we still have some furn in non-temp storage. More to downsize when we leave here. Also, surprised, but our cal king bed would've fit in our bedroom. We didn't bring it.

We ended staying at the Schofield Inn for about 3 weeks and kept our expenses rather low so we were able to keep most of the TLA (not tdy, oopps my bad)

Thank you guys soooo much for all your responses!!!

Also, Nords, I'm from Pittsburgh area too!!! Well, New Brighton, to be exact, but most people haven't a clue where that is..

Nords

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Re: Moving to Oahu..any advice?? Or tips??
« Reply #12 on: August 09, 2013, 03:31:46 PM »
We ended moving into Ko olina. We looked all over this island for an apt and felt we got the best of both worlds for both of us. Me, i get to walk to the beach, my dh gets a decent commute to work. We did look in Kailua, but felt it was WAY to far and the north beach isn't toddler friendly at all. Mililani felt a bit "less like hawaii" than Ko olina. Plus, we have a fancy pool and there's a mini mart. It actually saves me if i need one item. I don't end up buying extras at the grocery store just because i'm there.
Glad everything worked out-- enjoy your tour and let me know if you have more questions or want other help!

Ko'olina is a LOT more local Hawaii than Mililani.  I just hope your spouse has a decent commute; I see the H-1 backup to Fort Weaver every time I head down to White Plains Beach for dawn patrol.  Maybe Kunia's not too bad.

Let me know if you want a surfing lesson someday (or a loaner longboard).  I still owe Anner one too...

Also, Nords, I'm from Pittsburgh area too!!! Well, New Brighton, to be exact, but most people haven't a clue where that is..
Murrysville!  I've been back three times in 35 years, and that's probably about the right frequency.