- Count how many plugs/lights are on each circuit.
- If you're really picky, only have one circuit on at a time and make sure a plug isn't controlled by having any of a set of circuit breakers on (home inspectors usually don't go this far). Use this as an opportunity to map out all your circuit breakers, since the picture/drawing will be useful in the future.
- Test to ensure every sink's emergency drain works (and that the emergency drain doesn't leak into the area below the sink)
- Verify that windows/doors seal
- Verify that the smoke detectors ALL go off when you push the test button on one of them (assuming FL uses current national fire code, they will all have to be wired together).
- Throw the master breaker and test the smoke detectors again. They all must be battery backed-up. (But check that you are actually powering them by battery - there should be a light that starts blinking as a warning when they lose their main power source - if that doesn't happen, they may be wired for the entire building)
- Outside railing (if any) is secure
- Doors actually lock and unlock, including bathroom doors with the push button locks (and hole in the front to unlock). You should have been left an unlocking pin per door that can lock with a push button.
- Test every cabinet drawer and door. Including: ensure every knob is put in straight.
To the point frugaliknowit made: As far as the overall community association, consider pushing your association to have a "Transition Defect Study" done. This is analogous to a home inspection for the entire community. It will be a few thousand dollars, but having a PE sign off that things are wrong puts a ton of pressure on the builder to fix it before it ends up being a problem and they are in court trying to explain why they ignored a PE's opinion. Note that the transition study is in addition to a capital reserve study that your association should probably also be doing in the first year of independent operation.