Sounds like you've probably narrowed it down to a Corolla, Civic, or Prius. I might pick among these options primarily based on the Edmunds Total Cost of Ownership calculator. Your hybrid vs. non-hybrid calculation needs to factor in the number of miles you drive and your desires to be less exposed to fluctuating petroleum prices.
Used cars are still stupid expensive compared to in the past, so I will not begrudge you for buying new. However the out of pocket costs to pay a dealer will be much higher than the asking price of a used car from an individual. Dealers add on all sorts of fees and "services" and "dealer options" you have to factor in. OTOH, dealers should be expected to negotiate more, since they have either ripped off somebody on a trade in or have a healthy margin to work with on new cars anyway. They make most of their money off of financing so you're looking for a dealer willing to make a $1,000 profit on a quick low maintenance deal. They usually make $5k or more so you're sniping for someone with a quote to meet.
The goal is to pay for as few fees, services, and options as possible. This means the LAST thing you should do is walk onto a dealer lot.
Instead, compose an email to 3-5 local dealerships saying something like:
"I am a cash buyer looking for a new 2023 or 2024 [insert model here]. I want the lowest-priced base model with absolutely zero features or dealer add-ons. That means no floor mats, bumper applique, pinstripes, cleaning fee, gas tank fill up, protective films or sprays, warranty extensions, insurances, memberships, subscriptions, etc. I want it in [color] and I do not want a dealer logo painted or stickered onto the back. I may be interested in vehicles with minor lot damage for the right discount. Please send me a final invoice with the amount I would need to bring as a cashier's check. I am asking multiple dealerships to do the same, so please send your last, best, and final offer with all taxes and title fees included. Thanks for giving me the opportunity to do business with you."
Then after ignoring the pleas to have a conversation or visit the dealership, do the following:
0) gather insurance quotes and select an insurance carrier
1) collect your responses,
2) find the cheapest offer,
3) sanity check the offer against MSRP,
4) send follow up questions about whether the remaining items they left on the invoice can be removed or negotiate them away,
5) negotiate details about payment and delivery, remembering to budget for taxes which can be thousands of dollars
6) execute the deal, being careful to read every line and catch the reoccurring charges and subscriptions they write in at the last minute, and making it known that if anything is different than what was offered (e.g. they put their dealer logo on the back) you will request a refund. Also add the car to your insurance and property tax accounts.
7) take delivery of your new vehicle a week or so later, again being careful not to agree to any new charges or fees. Don't be surprised or offended if it has 100-200 miles or so on it.
8) make arrangements to get your license plate, if not already done during the dealer's process (research laws in your state)
9) drive the car like an absolute grandma for the first 3,000 miles to help the rings and valves properly seat, warm up the engine for 4-5 minutes before driving for the first 3,000 miles, and change the oil and filter at 1,000 miles and again at 3,000 miles to get rid of metal shavings from the engine's break in period.
10) be very careful driving and parking, because people are more likely to damage new cars due to being unfamiliar with them
11) consider applying spray cans of rubberized undercoating to prevent rust and make the car permanently quieter while the underside is still clean. You might spend $100 on spray cans to do it all, but it's worth it if you plan to keep the car for a decade at a time and/or live in a region with road salt.
