Author Topic: Car Advice for a Vehicle Lamen  (Read 3567 times)

veypor

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Car Advice for a Vehicle Lamen
« on: June 24, 2014, 05:31:21 PM »
Not sure if I'm posting this correctly as I've never actually posted to a forum before. I'm hoping I can harness the collective face-punching power of the Mustachian community to help me decide on purchasing a car (Bonus: feel free to weigh in on some other aspects of my situation if they seem out of line with the Mustachian Way of Life).

Situation:

I am the unfortunate owner of a 2005 Chevy Cobalt (yes, the one you've probably heard about in the news). I have 108,000 miles on the car, but have had a slew of problems (power steering, ignition switch, gear shift, and, most recently, Engine Power Reduced). Now, I've read MMM's articles on buying a car and then set out to purchase something in the $8,000 - $9,000 range with something around 60 - 90k miles. However, after talking to my brother (who is also a Mustachian), he suggested I fully fund my Roth IRA and then buy a $3,000 - $4,000 car instead.

The reason I'm unsure is this (and the other area on which you may weigh in): I recently left a soul-sucking cube job (making $55,000/year) to get back to chasing my dream of making movies. I am now intermittently employed as a PA (Production Assistant) and make $125 - $150/day before taxes. I have just finished paying off ~$44,000 of student and consumer debt (in ~19months), and have also amassed ~$15,000 in savings/investments.

My job as a PA requires a lot of commute (~7,000 miles per show), and the production pays for all gas. But I feel like I need something with relatively low miles that won't have issues. The shitty Cobalt has already had "issues" 4 times on this show and it runs the risk of losing me the job.

Question 1: Should I fund the IRA and buy a cheap vehicle or spend a little more on a dependable vehicle?
Question 2: Should I go back to pursuing the most money to build my 'stash as quick as possible, or keep building traction in my low-paying albeit desired industry?

Sorry my post is so long-winded (and horribly inarticulate), but like I said, this is my first post ever. Please let me know if you need me to provide more details.

gimp

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Re: Car Advice for a Vehicle Lamen
« Reply #1 on: June 24, 2014, 05:37:08 PM »
How far from work do you live?

If you absolutely need maximum reliability, two $2k cars would probably do better than one $8k car. Especially if they're something known to be reliable - honda, toyota, whatever. (I don't actually advocate buying two, just saying, there's no guarantee a $8k car will be any more reliable than a $2k car.)

Milspecstache

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Re: Car Advice for a Vehicle Lamen
« Reply #2 on: June 24, 2014, 05:43:28 PM »
How far from work do you live?

If you absolutely need maximum reliability, two $2k cars would probably do better than one $8k car. Especially if they're something known to be reliable - honda, toyota, whatever. (I don't actually advocate buying two, just saying, there's no guarantee a $8k car will be any more reliable than a $2k car.)

I never want more vehicles than I have to...  always results in more insurance, more maintenance, more hassle.

If my job required that many miles I'd want a newer car with 40k miles/2-3 years old (still under warranty) or I'd even consider buying a new, cheap car like Nissan Versa sedan ($14k or less).  I'd definitely get rid of the Cobalt in favor of something reliable.

Also depends on how good of a mechanic you are...  are you good at fixing or at least diagnosing problems yourself?  If not, go with the newer car still under warranty.

veypor

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Re: Car Advice for a Vehicle Lamen
« Reply #3 on: June 24, 2014, 06:36:36 PM »
How far from work do you live?

If you absolutely need maximum reliability, two $2k cars would probably do better than one $8k car. Especially if they're something known to be reliable - honda, toyota, whatever. (I don't actually advocate buying two, just saying, there's no guarantee a $8k car will be any more reliable than a $2k car.)

I never want more vehicles than I have to...  always results in more insurance, more maintenance, more hassle.

If my job required that many miles I'd want a newer car with 40k miles/2-3 years old (still under warranty) or I'd even consider buying a new, cheap car like Nissan Versa sedan ($14k or less).  I'd definitely get rid of the Cobalt in favor of something reliable.

Also depends on how good of a mechanic you are...  are you good at fixing or at least diagnosing problems yourself?  If not, go with the newer car still under warranty.

Yeah, unfortunately, I haven't developed any mechanical skill beyond changing breaks, oil, and bulbs. Certainly not any skill level required to maintain the engine issues the car is starting to have.

With regards to getting a newer, lower mileage vehicle, should I save for the car first or fund the IRA first? I'm 29, so I know I'm a bit behind in the savings race. But, on the other hand, there's no telling when the Cobalt will go completely kaput.

Milspecstache

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Re: Car Advice for a Vehicle Lamen
« Reply #4 on: June 24, 2014, 11:08:28 PM »
But those basic skills puts you more in tune with various engine sounds and will help you with an older car.  I could hear our mini-vans AC compressor going 6 months before it died.  I usually know when the brakes need attention and I have diagnosed bearing problems before as well.  I think that really helps me push the envelope a bit with older cars.

zenandtheart

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Re: Car Advice for a Vehicle Lamen
« Reply #5 on: June 30, 2014, 07:12:45 PM »
Congratulations on getting debt free, that's huge. Your second question is very existential, and only you can truly answer it. Let's focus on the first for now.

Car buying philosophy is a tricky thing, but there are a few rules I like to live by. First, $3-4K is plenty of money to find a very reliable vehicle, though obviously you will have more options in the $8-9K price range. I wouldn't set my budget much below that. At ~$3000 and below, it becomes tough to separate the beaters from the gems unless you have a lot of time and knowledge. Whether you need to spend more really depends on your other requirements for the car (size, type, features, etc). A few ground rules:

- With the abundance of Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) vehicles and transferable factory warranties on the market, I really don't see any situation where you'd want to buy new. Cars depreciate at least 2X as much in year 0-1 as they do in any year thereafter.

- Keep in mind that buying a car still under warranty (CPO or original) is essentially buying a car with an insurance policy. You're paying a premium to reduce your risk exposure if something happens. There's nothing inherently wrong with this, but odds are you'll spend more money in the long run.

- Mileage is a catch-all when shopping used. There's only so much that can go wrong with a car with 50K miles, even if it wasn't well cared for. However, it's not the only factor, and can often take a backseat to evidence of solid maintenance and a conscientious owner. I would happily pay more for a one-owner car with 120K miles and meticulous service records vs. an identical model with 60K, but on its 3rd owner and with a dubious history.

- Milspecstache's point about DIY maintenance is excellent. It will almost always save you money. I enjoy such work, which makes it easier, but even if you don't, it makes financial sense. At $100 per hour of labor at your average mechanic, the added value is far above your current wage and most other things you could do with your time.

My recommendation would be to find several cars you like that have good historical reliability, then move back and forth in the model year range to find years that are in your price range. Avoid the first model year of any new generation (lots of untested design = more things break... hm, wasn't 2005 the first year of the Cobalt?). Then aggressively seek the lowest mileage you can find that has good ownership history.

For example, one of my first cars was a 1991 Acura Legend. It cost $4k in 2002, with ~80K miles. It was essentially a re-badged Honda, but came with all the bells and whistles - V6, leather seats, power everything. Hell, it would compare favorably with most new cars under $30K today. That thing ran like a top for 6 years, with me touching nothing besides oil, brakes, and belts. Perhaps the only "non-Mustachian" thing about it was the 26 highway MPG (still pretty decent by today's standards), and I could have gone with the 4 cylinder Acura Integra if I so chose. You can find numerous examples of Nissans/Hondas/Toyotas or their equivalent luxury brands that would serve a similar role today.

Bottom line? Both of your scenarios are feasible, but spend enough to be comfortable with your purchase. Even if that's the more expensive option right now, take the time to learn about your car so that next round, you can save the extra $4-5K.

 

Wow, a phone plan for fifteen bucks!